I've noticed that my bike is leaking around the cylinder head and cylinder head cover. I'm hoping that it is just running down from the cylinder head cover. Wouldn't that mean I could just replace the o-rings on the cylinder head cover bolts? Should I also consider replacing the cylinder head cover gasket? I'd take pics of the leak, but I'm 100 miles away from my bike at school. So philward gave me permission to use one of his pics, I'll try to show where the oil is.
The two areas circled in red are where the oil usually is. Not only on top of the cylinder head cover, but also on the cylinder head.
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb62/bucks1605/header_bolt_solved.jpg)
You might be able to tighten the valve cover bolts and the head bolts to stop the leaking. The valve cover bolts use an o-ring and the head bolts use a copper washer for sealing. Make sure you do not over tighten the valve cover bolts. Torque is 9-11 ft-lbs. They are a shoulder bolt threaded into the aluminum cam caps. The head nut torque is 25-30 ft-lbs.
Sometimes the valve cover gasket leaks at the half-round part. A little sealant fixes that area but requires removing the valve cover.
Mine's leaking at the corner of the half-round part of the gasket there. Haven't done anything yet though.
Quote from: dgyver on April 01, 2008, 09:59:40 AM
You might be able to tighten the valve cover bolts and the head bolts to stop the leaking. The valve cover bolts use an o-ring and the head bolts use a copper washer for sealing. Make sure you do not over tighten the valve cover bolts. Torque is 9-11 ft-lbs. They are a shoulder bolt threaded into the aluminum cam caps. The head nut torque is 25-30 ft-lbs.
Sometimes the valve cover gasket leaks at the half-round part. A little sealant fixes that area but requires removing the valve cover.
+1
Those o-rings get hard after a while. A new o-ring would likely do it. When you have the tank off it becomes more apparent what is causing the leak.
Dunno if this will help ... if you're having trouble locating the leak, clean up the area and dry it off... then sprinkle some talc (baby) powder around where you think the leak is coming from. Then start your bike, it should help show you where it's leaking.
Cheers,
J
Thanks for the replies guys, I hate not having access to my bike. Hopefully I'll be able to check it out in a couple weeks.
Me too, just did the valve adjustment, new gasket was a big PITA to seat, it all looked good but sprung a leak today testing it out. Posted a new thread for help, want to know if I can just use a different, better sealer at that spot? I used Permatex gray but it was crap. I need to take it apart again tomorrow, it's got me tweaked. :mad:
Quote from: dgyver on April 01, 2008, 09:59:40 AM
You might be able to tighten the valve cover bolts and the head bolts to stop the leaking. The valve cover bolts use an o-ring and the head bolts use a copper washer for sealing. Make sure you do not over tighten the valve cover bolts. Torque is 9-11 ft-lbs. They are a shoulder bolt threaded into the aluminum cam caps. The head nut torque is 25-30 ft-lbs.
Sometimes the valve cover gasket leaks at the half-round part. A little sealant fixes that area but requires removing the valve cover.
I see the o-rings in the parts fiche, but I can't find the head bolts with the copper washer. Could you point them out in the fiche, I wasn't sure which one they were in, so I included both.
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb62/bucks1605/SU0083_002.gif)
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb62/bucks1605/SU0083_003.gif)
I use gasgasenich,I think that's how it's spelled,to hold gaskets and such in place.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=EDL%2D9300&N=700+4294925094+4294922131+115&autoview=sku
Quote from: bucks1605 on April 01, 2008, 05:04:04 PM
Quote from: dgyver on April 01, 2008, 09:59:40 AM
You might be able to tighten the valve cover bolts and the head bolts to stop the leaking. The valve cover bolts use an o-ring and the head bolts use a copper washer for sealing. Make sure you do not over tighten the valve cover bolts. Torque is 9-11 ft-lbs. They are a shoulder bolt threaded into the aluminum cam caps. The head nut torque is 25-30 ft-lbs.
Sometimes the valve cover gasket leaks at the half-round part. A little sealant fixes that area but requires removing the valve cover.
I see the o-rings in the parts fiche, but I can't find the head bolts with the copper washer. Could you point them out in the fiche, I wasn't sure which one they were in, so I included both.
(http://i209.photobucket.com/albums/bb62/bucks1605/SU0083_003.gif)
Part # 14
Thanks ben. How many of those am I going to need? I see at least 2.
Quote from: Teek on April 01, 2008, 04:43:16 PM
Me too, just did the valve adjustment, new gasket was a big PITA to seat, it all looked good but sprung a leak today testing it out. Posted a new thread for help, want to know if I can just use a different, better sealer at that spot? I used Permatex gray but it was crap. I need to take it apart again tomorrow, it's got me tweaked. :mad:
I use a tube of FGIP (Form Gasket In Place) from my toyota timing chain replacement for things like this. It's $14 a tube at the toyota stealership, more than enough for the intended use. It's tacky in about 1 minute, and holds decently within 5 minutes. The gasket on the valve cover got a little in the moon shaped areas, and a little at the corners. No leaks yet.
Quote from: bucks1605 on April 01, 2008, 05:12:33 PM
Thanks ben. How many of those am I going to need? I see at least 2.
I think it's 10 total for #14 and 4 total for #9.If your going to replace the coper washers might as well replace the head gasket and oil passage seals,#9.
There are 8 copper washers. 4 outside and 4 inside.
I reuse them all of the time. Sand them flat to remove the ridges.
Replacing #9 will break the seal of the base gasket.
I use a non-hardening form-a-gasket and never had a problem.
Quote from: dgyver on April 01, 2008, 08:17:29 PM
There are 8 copper washers. 4 outside and 4 inside.
I reuse them all of the time. Sand them flat to remove the ridges.
Replacing #9 will break the seal of the base gasket.
I use a non-hardening form-a-gasket and never had a problem.
That sounds good, always nice to save a little money. What do you think about replacing #2? The cylinder head gasket. It being a little more expensive, I would like to see what shape it's in before I replace it. Problem is I can only go home on some weekends, and by the time I inspect the part and order a new one, I'll be back at school.
EDIT: I decided to hold off on the cylinder head gasket. I want to see if the four o-rings fix my problem first.