I've adjusted my clutch properly (from what the manual says anyway) and it usually holds nicely. Heavy acceleration or downshifting + WOT usually = go go go.
Then the rain started today, you know, that kinda heavy soaking-everything rain.
Noticed the clutch slipped a little at first. Then I noticed it slipped a whole lot while I was accelerating up and on ramp.
After reaching cruising speed (65-85 MPH depending on traffic) and no rain for a while, it seemed to slip less easily.
Am I going completely mad, or is there some gasket / seal I should be checking out to prevent rain water from causing slippage ?
Is this normal ?
Is this a sign of something bad to come ?
k- tanx
It's not going to be the rain causing your slipping. The clutch is a wet-clutch, which means that it sits in oil. If there was a way for the rain to get in, there would be a way for the oil to get out, and you'd know all about it! :o :icon_razz:
Certain you weren't spinning up the rear? 40 ponies is plenty to get a sport touring tire spinning in the wet, I do it all the time.
Try it in the dry first.
It's oil tight, so long as the tail pipe doesn't count ;) so I don't think it's a water-in-the-oil problem. I'm using the same castrol gtx 10w40 I always have. Earlier in the ride (pre rain) there was no slippage even under 'spirited' accelerations.
Ya- I thought it might be spinning the rear at first. It's not spinning, I can be cruising in 5th or 6th at 45-60 or whatever and give it a little squeeze. The revs come up, but the speed doesn't. If I very slowly roll it on, it acellerates. If I gap it, it revs without accelerating.
The interstate was dry as a bone at one point on the way home. I could reproduce the slipping at 45 right up to 90 or so. I'm fairly certain MY gs can't spin a tire on dry pavement at those speeds.
Any other ideas about rain = clutch slipping ? I'm beefuzzeled.
Quote from: dgyver on April 06, 2008, 07:08:43 PM
Try it in the dry first.
sorry, i was typing while you posted. ^^ yep, in the dry too, so long as it's really rained cats n dogs.
Quote from: ohgood on April 06, 2008, 07:10:36 PM
Quote from: dgyver on April 06, 2008, 07:08:43 PM
Try it in the dry first.
sorry, i was typing while you posted. ^^ yep, in the dry too, so long as it's really rained cats n dogs.
Sounds like the rod, under the little cover with 2 screws,is out of adjustment.It's located on the sprocket cover.If the screw in the center of the nut becomes to tight it will keep the clutch springs from closing the clutch completely.If you need to replace it.Try a Barnett or EBC clutch for a 99-02 SV650.They are better than the GS clutch and drop right in.Just soak the friction disc in the oil you're going to use for 10-15 minutes before the install.The one disc that's different goes in first.
Find a very solid brick/concrete wall, get the front wheel hard up against it and make sure the back wheel is on a hard surface, sit on the bike and put it in a high gear. Give it some revs and try and let the clutch out..........you can see where this is going..........if the clutch is slipping it will become obvious.
Quote from: ben2go on April 06, 2008, 10:09:31 PM
Quote from: ohgood on April 06, 2008, 07:10:36 PM
Quote from: dgyver on April 06, 2008, 07:08:43 PM
Try it in the dry first.
sorry, i was typing while you posted. ^^ yep, in the dry too, so long as it's really rained cats n dogs.
Sounds like the rod, under the little cover with 2 screws,is out of adjustment.It's located on the sprocket cover.If the screw in the center of the nut becomes to tight it will keep the clutch springs from closing the clutch completely.If you need to replace it.Try a Barnett or EBC clutch for a 99-02 SV650.They are better than the GS clutch and drop right in.Just soak the friction disc in the oil you're going to use for 10-15 minutes before the install.The one disc that's different goes in first.
OK, I'm going to try adjusting it again today. (shrug) Maybe it's worn a little more since the last time. I dunno. Thanks for the tip about the better clutch, and assembly process !
Quote from: sledge on April 07, 2008, 02:33:57 AM
Find a very solid brick/concrete wall, get the front wheel hard up against it and make sure the back wheel is on a hard surface, sit on the bike and put it in a high gear. Give it some revs and try and let the clutch out..........you can see where this is going..........if the clutch is slipping it will become obvious.
Cool, and I can check my steering tube bearings at the same time. Oh, and I'll have to 'try' in the lower gears too, you know, just for kicks ;)
IF it does turn out to be the clutch going, can anyone explain why it only becomes more apparent after the bike has been ridden in a soaking rain ? I haven't changed oil weights since I bought it, always change the oil on time, and the rain thing has me stumped. :)
Before Sunday's ride I added 1/2-3/4 or so 10w40 castrol. I'm beginning to think it had friction inhibitors. Tomorrow I'll go for a short ride and heat up the motor, drain it, and replace it with 10w40 that has no mention of friction inhibitors on the label.
Will I need to 'flush' the oil out, say fill it with non-FI oil, run it a little, then dump that too ?
I'm searching the forum now about FI oils and stuff.
this might be another DOH
Quote from: ohgood on April 08, 2008, 02:56:10 PM
Before Sunday's ride I added 1/2-3/4 or so 10w40 castrol. I'm beginning to think it had friction inhibitors. Tomorrow I'll go for a short ride and heat up the motor, drain it, and replace it with 10w40 that has no mention of friction inhibitors on the label.
Will I need to 'flush' the oil out, say fill it with non-FI oil, run it a little, then dump that too ?
I'm searching the forum now about FI oils and stuff.
this might be another DOH
That is what I would do.
What I've done previously to clean friction modifiers is after a nice long ride to fully warm up the engine, pour in 16 ounces of marvel mystery oil. Then while using the rear brake pull in the clutch, rev it and drag the clutch a little, pull it in again. Repeat this for a good minute or two and then drain and fill the oil as usual, a hot engine oil drains especially well. Don't forget to remove the filter cover to get what's in there too. I've brought what I've thought to be a ruined clutch back from the brink using that method.
Quote from: dgyver on April 08, 2008, 03:54:34 PM
Quote from: ohgood on April 08, 2008, 02:56:10 PM
Before Sunday's ride I added 1/2-3/4 or so 10w40 castrol. I'm beginning to think it had friction inhibitors. Tomorrow I'll go for a short ride and heat up the motor, drain it, and replace it with 10w40 that has no mention of friction inhibitors on the label.
Will I need to 'flush' the oil out, say fill it with non-FI oil, run it a little, then dump that too ?
I'm searching the forum now about FI oils and stuff.
this might be another DOH
That is what I would do.
correct - o !
Quote from: qwertydude on April 08, 2008, 04:08:45 PM
What I've done previously to clean friction modifiers is after a nice long ride to fully warm up the engine, pour in 16 ounces of marvel mystery oil. Then while using the rear brake pull in the clutch, rev it and drag the clutch a little, pull it in again. Repeat this for a good minute or two and then drain and fill the oil as usual, a hot engine oil drains especially well. Don't forget to remove the filter cover to get what's in there too. I've brought what I've thought to be a ruined clutch back from the brink using that method.
I kinda did something similar, just did some little circles slipping the clutch, figured it might need to be warmed up good. Laid the tools and catch pan out before I went to ride. Came back and dropped the plug less than a minute after I shut down the bike. The oil ran like water.
All is well, the effin friction modifiers are all gone now. :) Acceleration again weeee.
Always check the label ! :)