Hi Everyone,
My left fork seal is starting to leak, so I'm going to replace the fork seals next weekend. While the forks are off, I planned to regrease the head bearings:
The Clymer manual says that access to the head bearings requires removal of fuel tank, ignition switch wires, and handlebars. It also states that a special Suzuki wrench is required to remove the steering stem nut.
This sounds more involved than I originally anticipated. :cry: Is this easier than it sounds? My search was unsuccessful, but a link to a HOW TO would be great! Can anyone suggest an easy workaround for the "special tool"?
Thanks! :icon_mrgreen:
If you look at the steering stem nut, picture a sort of spanner wrench. On my old dirtbikes I just used a big fat screwdriver and a hammer but if you want to keep your bike looking fresh then I dont recommend this.
Quote from: ImportBabe on April 21, 2008, 01:01:31 AM
If you look at the steering stem nut, picture a sort of spanner wrench. On my old dirtbikes I just used a big fat screwdriver and a hammer but if you want to keep your bike looking fresh then I dont recommend this.
That would be correct.The stem nut has slots in it.I use and old steel chisel with a rounded off end.I have electrical tape to protect the nut.It isn't on there that tight.Yes, you have to remove the handle bars and head light.I didn't remove my tank,but I put an old piece of carpet over it to protect it.Fuzzy side down.The backing will scratch paint.The electrical connectors are color coded so they aren't easily mixed up.There's only 3 you should have to take loose if you leave the controls on the bars.1)The right side controls2)The left side controls3)the headlight.I would leave everything else in the headlight bucket and let it hang.I striped my front end down for paint and mods last week.
A screwdiver will chew the ridges off more than likely. A drift punch or a nice square profile rod mitered to ~45 degrees will work a lot better.
Cool.
Buddha.
BTW I pulled the lower stem off a katana from the junkyard. It had been lying on its side and in weather for years. It also had totally rusted nearly the whole bike ... it didn;t even cast a shadow ... and its neck bearings were nearly pristine. The lower bearing looked new, upper had a little bit of dust on it. Essentially that dust cover and everything else being nice and set up properly and intact really makes it safe from anything. The top bearing obviously has gravity draining the grease and the bottom bearings obviously has gravity dropping grease on it. That could explain the difference between the 2. it actually left me impressed with the whole design as well as very very irritated that on the new GSXR's suzuki went to the Ball type bearing and literally had no lube on it. Top or bottom, they looked like they had wd40 sprayed on them and that was that.
Cool.
Buddha.
If you use a drift made from a soft metal like aluminium, copper or brass.......it wont damge or chip the plating off the collar when you hit it. Or if you want to go OTT, find an old 1/2" drive socket or a piece of steel tube of the same diameter as the collar and carefully cut/grind it to make 4 tangs on one end that will mate up with the slots in the collar.
Ignition stays on upper clamp you only need to disconnect it and you don't need special suzuki tools.
You can use a drift,or better a C-spanner and it's easier then it sounds :thumb:
Thanks to everyone for the replies! I'll take a look this weekend and go from there. :)
Quote from: ben2go on April 21, 2008, 01:13:51 AM
Yes, you have to remove the handle bars and head light.
Yuck, Clymer didn't mention the headlight. I'm trying to picture it, and I'm not sure why the headlight is in the way? :icon_confused: Perhaps this would be more obvious if I had the bike in front of me?
QuoteI didn't remove my tank,but I put an old piece of carpet over it to protect it.Fuzzy side down.The backing will scratch paint.
Good idea! It's nice to avoid the hassle of tank removal whenever possible. :)
To take off the forks you have to lose the headlight ... or atleast ... it got nothing holding it in place, just the wiring and grace of god.
Cool.
Buddha.
I just greased my head bearings this weekend and can confirm that it's possible to do it without disconnecting anything. Definitely not recommended, but it is possible. I ended up just removing the wheel and fork tubes. Holding up the top triple with handlebars and headlight and brake caliper and everything connected while snaking the bottom triple out of the mess of wiring to remove it was a pain. Then you get to balance that whole thing precariously on the stem while greasing the bearings, then get the bottom triple installed and the top bearings, dust seal and nut installed on top while holding up the controls with your third hand. It's doable, and would be a whole lot easier with a second person, but my recommendation is doing it right.
i took a large screw driver, and used a angle grinder to blunt the end , and used that with a socket wrench to hit it, and i didnt do any damage what so ever , it fitted really nice :thumb:
This works pretty well to tighten the steering stem nut. Just be careful that the spanner won't slip on the nut
(http://www.mijnalbum.nl/Foto-XKW37AAP.jpg)
Things are easy if you remove enough of the parts surrounding the steering stem. It's more work but it safes a lot of swearing
My welder welded 4 prongs to a pipe wrench to go this, and proceeded to tear up his brothers R1. Then I casually took it and used it on the GS and the GR as they watched and cried. I said, it helps when you bike isn't made of cheese isn't it.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on June 02, 2008, 11:51:17 AM
it helps when you bike isn't made of cheese isn't it.
Cool.
Buddha.
Sure does. :laugh:
This is what I use:
(http://www.kowatools.com/Merchant2/graphics/00000001/310031LL.GIF)
http://www.kowatools.com/cgi-bin/miva?Merchant2/merchant.mv+Screen=PROD&Store_Code=AKS2000&Product_Code=031003L&Category_Code=SPEC+WRENCH
Ooooohhhhh :thumb:
I got to get me one of those!!
hows about a homemade strap wrench ? i made one out of an old (car) A/C serpentine belt, and it worked really nice for bigger stuff. you can't hardly hurt it unless you put it right on a knife blade.
some jack ass liked it more than i did :( :( :( and it walked away. just like a toolmaker's vice, 5 lb copper hammer, and other assorted things. waaaaaaaaaaaa
but anyway, gonna rig up another one as soon as i find another serpentine on the road. ;)