I am not certain what the little steel "nipple" coming from under the tank does. I think a california hose attaches to it, but there is no hose on it now. I learned that a long time ago. Bike ran like crap with a hose on it. But...I have been getting crappy mileage and maybe this is why. Any ideas?
Clymer claims it's a CA hose. But my GS (non CA) has one too. Mine also has a hose, and works just fine. I think it's a surge house, and helps vent vapors from the tank.
If you mean the one that's underneath the fuel tap in this photo (red):
(http://www.gs-500.info/images/thumb/8/87/Tankab5.JPG/800px-Tankab5.JPG)
it's indeed the exit of the "overflow" of the petrol tank. If you open the tank you can see a little hole in the rim, that's where it drains.
If you had problems when you attached a hose their, maybe it was kinked/blocked and thus created a negative pressure in the tank?! The original hose has a 90° bend there, thus doesn't kink as a straight one does (been there, done that :icon_rolleyes:)
Normally there is an open hose which ends near the right peg with the overflow of the battery and carbs. But know of enough people that don't use that hose.
Shouldn't have anything to do with your low mileage, how's the engine doing? Carbs clean/well adjusted?
Quote from: Kaizer on April 21, 2008, 10:52:40 PM
I am not certain what the little steel "nipple" coming from under the tank does. I think a california hose attaches to it, but there is no hose on it now. I learned that a long time ago. Bike ran like crap with a hose on it. But...I have been getting crappy mileage and maybe this is why. Any ideas?
over flow drain. you don't want that pouring gas all over your engine, put a line on it, run it down next to the others.
make sure the line is clear (pass through, not see through ;) )
Quote from: Kaizer on April 21, 2008, 10:52:40 PM
I am not certain what the little steel "nipple" coming from under the tank does. I think a california hose attaches to it, but there is no hose on it now. I learned that a long time ago. Bike ran like crap with a hose on it. But...I have been getting crappy mileage and maybe this is why. Any ideas?
This is just a long shot,but have you checked the vent in the gas cap.It can some times cause rough running.
The vent in the gas cap? How do I check that? you are all right, it is the overflow valve but I had problems the last time I had a hose attached to it. It originally came with no hose. As for rejetting, yes, it was done a year ago. Valves need to be checked but she seems to be doing okay. I just got my first tank filled up since coming back to the states so we shall see what kind of mileage she is getting now. just have to wait and see. thanks.
I usually remove the gas cap from the tank, flip the cap back and remove the screws.Inside there's a check valve that let's pressure in and out of the tank.If it's clogged and sets in the sun it will pressurize,push fuel past the float needles if the petcock isn't working right.As the fuel runs out to the carbs it could create a vacuum and starve the carbs.Like I said this is a long shot but has happened.
If it's clogged and sets in the sun it will pressurize,push fuel past the float needles if the petcock isn't working right.As the fuel runs out to the carbs it could create a vacuum and starve the carbs.Like I said this is a long shot but has happened.
By this, what do you mean? what float needles? Just wondering since I don't see any inside the cap. thanks.
hes talking about pressure on the line will cause teh carburator needle and float issue.
Quote from: pbureau69 on April 23, 2008, 04:03:12 AM
hes talking about pressure on the line will cause teh carburator needle and float issue.
CO rrect.
ok, that's all mechanically interesting, but what would be the symptoms shown by the motorcycle when this particular phenomenon happens?
Possible flooding when the bike sets in the sun.Cutting back,weak throttle response,back firing,acting like it's running out of gas while riding.If you suspect this while you're riding just pull over,open the cap,and ride a couple miles.If everything runs good you know the cap is plugged.
how would the bike flood when it sits in the sun? I have not experienced this much or the other signs. but as far as I know, she has a hard time performance wise when it gets to be cold. when she is warmed up and it is warm, no problems. she could be running lean. hmm. who knows.
Quote from: Kaizer on April 24, 2008, 03:39:24 AM
how would the bike flood when it sits in the sun? I have not experienced this much or the other signs. but as far as I know, she has a hard time performance wise when it gets to be cold. when she is warmed up and it is warm, no problems. she could be running lean. hmm. who knows.
Sun heats up the tank,the fuel vapor expands,if the cap is clogged, the pressure takes the path of least resistance,through the petcocks and out the carbs.In the cold the exact oppisite happens.The tank cools,the vapor condenses,the tank tries to pull in air,if the cap is clogged,vacuum is created.Vacuum follows the path of least resistance and sucks fuel out of the carbs.
You are correct.If your bike has never been rejeted it is running lean.Suzuki jets lean to meet emission standards in the US.
it WAS rejetted last year but by the previous owner. how often does it need to be rejetted? I thought it was a once in a lifetime thing unless you change altitudes and major environments. let me know. thanks.
Quote from: Kaizer on April 24, 2008, 03:23:34 PM
it WAS rejetted last year but by the previous owner. how often does it need to be rejetted? I thought it was a once in a lifetime thing unless you change altitudes and major environments. let me know. thanks.
You should only have to rejet once unless changes are made. Like up grading the exhaust or air filter,that requires a rejet.Altitude requires a rejet if it's a major change in elevation.
I just recharged the k & N filter. that shouldn't call for a rejet right? anyhow, there was something i wanted to mention about how to clean the gas cap. any suggestions? should i clean it just in case it IS plugged? what should I use to clean it? also, I was wondering if I can use regular carb cleaner to clean out my carbs. the bike has been sitting a total of 6 mon on and off and not sure if I need to do anything with the carbs. she was fullly drained of gas and stored in a clean garage. thanks.
I use carb cleaner on my carbs.Just be sure not to hit the rubber and plastic parts.I use gasoline to clean the gas cap and a squirt of white lithium grease to keep it from sticking.While you're cleaning your carbs,check the numbers on the jets.A lunch box requires a rejet unless the PO rejetted for it.A dropin requires a rejet also.What exhaust and air filter are you running?That will help with correcting the jetting.It would also help to know what jets are in the carbs.Don't rejet until the valves are adjusted and in spec.Valves being out of adjustment will really mess up carbs.Carbs require vacuum from the engine to operate.The valves being out of adjustment,slows the vacuum,and then the carbs don't have enough vacuum to pull fuel thru the carb and into the engine.
K and N flilter with vance and hines exhaust. got it from the owner. been on the bike ever since. do I have to rejet if i cleaned the k and n filter? let me know.
You'll definately wanna check your jetting.You should be running 40-142.5(at least) and 1 washer under the needles.The blue chart on wiki has you listed as 40-150-1 washer and 3 turns on the mixture screws.Here's the link to the chart. http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Upgrades/Rejetting
Thanks. I think the previous owner did that. I dont have the instruments to do a valve check and rejet check. How much would I have to pay to have a mechanic do those checks? Let me know what is the norm.
Between $200 and $350.It depends on the shop.If it's a dealer, you'll pay a premium price for a so so job.If it's an independent shop,you'll pay less and get a premium job.The jetting will take some ride and tune time,unless the shop has a dyno.If they have a dyno the price will go up a lot.That's why most of us prefer to do it ourselves.There are really no special tools to adjust valves,clean carbs,check the jetting or rejet.Buddha on here will clean and rejet your carbs.You have to remove them,send them to him with your air filter and exhaust specs.To do the carbs and valves, you need a set of metric allen wrenches,phillips and flat screw driver,pliers and metric feeler gauge that goes down to .03 mm.Here check these links.
http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Maintenance/CheckValves
http://gstwin.com/rejet.htm