I am running into a problem where if I am riding (doesn't have to be all that fast) and have to put on the brakes pretty quickly the engine will cut out even with the clutch fully in once the bike gets close to a stop. This happens much more often when going on a downward slope.
To compound the issue, sometimes after the engine cuts out I will push the starter and get nothing. I then have to push the bike to curb and try the whole start cycle (key off, back on, put in neutral, clutch in, push the starter). Sometimes it will kick in on the first try, sometimes it takes 5 minutes (or more). It seems completely random when the starter will actualy engage the engine. Happened yesterday when I got home - parked the bike, went inside to open the garage, came back out and bike wouldn't start. Had to wait til this morning, went outside and it started up on first try.
Will the starter not engage the engine if it is flooded? Thoughts on the other issues?
I've run into this too, with the rpms diving after quick braking. I find it only happens when my engine isn't all the way warm. Are you warming up all the way? (hmm ... I'll have to watch for this)
check your side stand switch. mine gets goopy sometimes from chain lube sling off, and is extra sensitive.
I'll look into that. But my problem is an actual stall. Like, the rpms dip down to 500 or so, and then she dies. Telo, are you getting a quick cut, or a slow death?
Floats too high will cause liquid fuel to get into the chamber under hard braking. Under hard acceleration (ha like a GS can produce that) it will splash into air box, and there it just becomes part of the drainage or gets re atomised due to evaporation and gets into the motor.
Set your floats back to the right level. That will make your bike lean, like its supposed to be, then rejet it.
Cool.
Buddha.
Could it be an improperly adjusted clutch? The clutch may not be disengaging completely.
Quote from: surf.seppo on May 10, 2008, 06:42:00 PM
I'll look into that. But my problem is an actual stall. Like, the rpms dip down to 500 or so, and then she dies. Telo, are you getting a quick cut, or a slow death?
I would say more of a slow death. I can hear it coming and try to give it a little more gas to keep the rpms up but usually I am a little more focused on making sure I stop. You can tell the bike is trying to stay running but just can't get enough gas. I would like to think that bike is fully warm. Last time it happened was right before I got home (10 mile commute up some hills).
Would the floats also cause the really bad gas mileage I have been getting? Over the cold months I was getting about 25mpg! Last fill up I was back up around 40mpg which I think is more acceptable.
:bowdown: Buddha I think you've got my bike right. I'll go check the floats. (Right after I figure out what a float is). It *could* be the clutch, but I think the float solution is more probable. :cheers:
Quote from: ohgood on May 10, 2008, 06:36:04 PM
check your side stand switch. mine gets goopy sometimes from chain lube sling off, and is extra sensitive.
This shouldn't affect the bike, though, if the stand is down and it still won't start right? Happened again when I got home last night (20 minute commute). Parked the bike to go open the garage and when I came back out, wouldn't start. Tried again a couple hours later (bike in neutral, clutch in) nothing.
I guess what is bothering me so much is that it seems completely random when the starter will engage and when it won't.
Like buddha said, check your float heights. Maybe one of the floats are stuck. Here's an easy way to do it: http://www.gstwin.com/float_height_check.htm . It's simple enough, but you will probably need to pull your carbs and take them apart if one of the floats is indeed stuck.
Also, when you say that it takes 5 or so minutes to start, are you saying that the starter doesn't even crank (press button, nothing happens, or it makes a clicking noise), or are you saying that it doesn't fire up (cranks, but doesn't catch)? If it's the former case, maybe it's also something electrical.
Furthermore, how many miles are on your bike and what year is it?
I will definitely check that out. I have heard that these are fairly notorious for needing that adjustment. How intense of a repair is it to adjust the floats? Sadly I admit that I am not the most savvy at the more involved repairs. Also, do you think this could be part of the reason I was getting such poor gas mileage? The cold months I got 25mpg! Last fill up was closer to 40.
It will not even crank. Driving into Berkeley yesterday had to break hard around a UPS truck (engine died) and when I got to the side of the road, first try no crank. On the fourth try it finally cranked and turned over. If the engine will crank it will start, that is never the problem. The issue is that sometimes it won't even crank. This seems like an electrical issue but it started at roughly the same time the bike started stalling on a hard brake so I wasn't sure if the two problems were related.
Bike is a 1990 with 28K miles. I am the third owner.
Poor fuel mileage would certainly be an indicator of a too rich condition; too high float height.
That would be the simple fix.
IF it is an electrical prob, too weak of a battery would cause it not to crank; recharge and check the fluid levels.
I would also check:
Signal generator on tight, and the pick up plate.
clean start button contacts
check the coils to make sure their mounting bolts are tight, and check any wires to them.
Spark plugs
Also, make sure that engine ground is on tight, too. Kerry has a thread on the location.
Quote from: beRto on May 10, 2008, 09:40:15 PM
Could it be an improperly adjusted clutch? The clutch may not be disengaging completely.
I didn't think about this at first, but I have had to replace the clutch lever when my bike tipped over and the original lever snapped in two. Only reason I didn't think this was the issue, though, is that the problem surfaced a while after I replaced the clutch lever. Could it get out of whack over time?
Is there any trick to properly adjust the clutch sensor?
Quote from: Telo16 on May 14, 2008, 10:28:46 PM
Quote from: beRto on May 10, 2008, 09:40:15 PM
Could it be an improperly adjusted clutch? The clutch may not be disengaging completely.
I didn't think about this at first, but I have had to replace the clutch lever when my bike tipped over and the original lever snapped in two. Only reason I didn't think this was the issue, though, is that the problem surfaced a while after I replaced the clutch lever. Could it get out of whack over time?
Is there any trick to properly adjust the clutch sensor?
Given the description of your problem, the most likely culprit would be the clutch switch located in the lever. I think there is a little slot in the lever that needs to align properly with the switch elements. Did you notice this when you installed the lever?
It might be worthwhile to take off the lever, check that the switch is ok, and put it back on (paying careful attention to the switch). As an easy way to test, you can bypass the clutch switch the next time the problem occurs (make sure you pull in the clutch lever anyways though!).
I'm still puzzled why the bike would stall in the first place though. A bad clutch switch would prevent the bike from re-starting, but I don't think it would cause it to stall on hard braking. :dunno_white:
How much freeplay is there in your clutch lever? In other words, how far can you pull the lever back before you feel the clutch "bite"?
Quote from: beRto on May 10, 2008, 09:40:15 PM
I'm still puzzled why the bike would stall in the first place though. A bad clutch switch would prevent the bike from re-starting, but I don't think it would cause it to stall on hard braking. :dunno_white:
How much freeplay is there in your clutch lever? In other words, how far can you pull the lever back before you feel the clutch "bite"?
I think I have two separate issues going on. I think the stalling is from my floats needing adjusting. Sounds like they are too high. Anyone know how often these typically need adjusting?
The restart, though, I am hoping is something simple like the clutch. Usually I start to feel a bit about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way on letting it out. I will also check the kickstand sensor but if the bike is in neutral it should matter if the stand is up or down.
Quote from: Telo16 on May 15, 2008, 10:15:29 AM
I think I have two separate issues going on. I think the stalling is from my floats needing adjusting. Sounds like they are too high. Anyone know how often these typically need adjusting?
There's an easy way to test: http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm (http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm)
Quote
The restart, though, I am hoping is something simple like the clutch. Usually I start to feel a bit about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way on letting it out. I will also check the kickstand sensor but if the bike is in neutral it should matter if the stand is up or down.
Sorry, I think I was unclear... I didn't mean "when does the clutch engage and the bike start to move" :oops:
With the bike off, you should be able to pull the clutch lever in a little bit without it pulling on the cable at all. This is called freeplay. It is similar to the throttle; you should be able to twist the throttle a few degrees without it pulling on the cable. The specific amount of freeplay required is specified in the shop manuals.
Do you have freeplay in your clutch lever?
omg! that's it! I don't have *any* freeplay. I'll have to look into adjusting this. Any hints?
:icon_rolleyes:
Quote from: surf.seppo on May 15, 2008, 02:51:21 PM
omg! that's it! I don't have *any* freeplay. I'll have to look into adjusting this. Any hints?
:icon_rolleyes:
This FAQ thread has photos and describes the procedure (scroll down towards the end):
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=20468.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=20468.0)
Kerry has a short video about adjusting the cable at the lever end (this should be done after adjusting the push rod mechanism):
http://www.bbburma.net/ (http://www.bbburma.net/) - look under "Maintenance Tips and Tricks"
Good luck and let us know how it turns out! :)
p.s. a shop manual is definitely a worthwhile investment!
Thanks beRto. I actually have a Clymer, but I find that the FAQs here, on the Wiki, and on Kerry's page outstrip it for their real-world application. Clymer just doesn't put in all the details all the time.
:cheers:
Quote from: surf.seppo on May 16, 2008, 10:44:00 AM
Thanks beRto. I actually have a Clymer, but I find that the FAQs here, on the Wiki, and on Kerry's page outstrip it for their real-world application. Clymer just doesn't put in all the details all the time.
:cheers:
Well, there's nothing wrong with asking questions! Once you've reviewed the other material, the Clymer will make a good reference to take along when you do the work.