Hi guys, I recently got a 2004 GS500F, It had 13000mi on the meter. The chains were in bad shape and heads would turn on the road if I zipped through because the chains made so much noise. :laugh: They had also differentially expanded in different locations. In certain places the slack was 5" while it was taut in the other extreme :mad:
I know how dangerous it is to drive with such a chain. I was lucky that nothing happened till date ;) Finally, I replaced the drive chain and the drive sprockets yesterday. Started working at 10 am and finished at 1 am the next day. I did have to take some breaks in between to get some tools. I opted for an OEM chain and faced major obstacles in the swing arm part. However, I used the hack that 'nikux' posted in one of the threads. The deal is - you do not have to completely remove the swing arm as the clymer manual says. It was very very useful.
After the complete assembly, I went for a test ride and the back brakes won't work. :dunno_white: yuck! Today, I went for another test ride and kept pressing the brakes and after doing 10 miles with frequent presses, the back brake is back is back to normal. :icon_razz: Although, It is still not as effective as before. I do hope that it gets better soon.
All in all, a very satisfying experience. Now, it rides like an angel. No sick noises and it is way too smooth. Just felt like sharing my experiences and hence posted. :thumb: Special thanks to Nikux for letting me use his tool kit and his garage. :kiss3:
Id bleed ur brakes with some Fresh fluid , sounds like u might have a little air in there
Quote from: Jay_wolf on May 19, 2008, 09:57:23 AM
Id bleed ur brakes with some Fresh fluid , sounds like u might have a little air in there
Thanks JayWolf. Do you recommend that I not use the back brakes till I bleed the system? Does the little amount of air in the line pose any threat? Just curious!
Quote from: astroaru on May 19, 2008, 12:08:32 AM
Hi guys, I recently got a 2004 GS500F, It had 13000mi on the meter. The chains were in bad shape and heads would turn on the road if I zipped through because the chains made so much noise. :laugh: They had also differentially expanded in different locations. In certain places the slack was 5" while it was taut in the other extreme :mad:
I know how dangerous it is to drive with such a chain. I was lucky that nothing happened till date ;) Finally, I replaced the drive chain and the drive sprockets yesterday. Started working at 10 am and finished at 1 am the next day. I did have to take some breaks in between to get some tools. I opted for an OEM chain and faced major obstacles in the swing arm part. However, I used the hack that 'nikux' posted in one of the threads. The deal is - you do not have to completely remove the swing arm as the clymer manual says. It was very very useful.
Wow, sounds like your chain was in rough shape. I'm glad you got it fixed!
QuoteAfter the complete assembly, I went for a test ride and the back brakes won't work. :dunno_white: yuck! Today, I went for another test ride and kept pressing the brakes and after doing 10 miles with frequent presses, the back brake is back is back to normal. :icon_razz: Although, It is still not as effective as before. I do hope that it gets better soon.
It may be that when you removed the rear caliper, the pistons got pushed back in. That would explain why you needed to pump the brake several times to get it to work again. However, it is concerning that the braking is "still not as effective as before".
Is it possible that you got some chain lube/grease on the rotor? What is the brake fluid level is the rear reservoir?
Quote from: beRto on May 19, 2008, 10:43:45 AM
It may be that when you removed the rear caliper, the pistons got pushed back in. That would explain why you needed to pump the brake several times to get it to work again. However, it is concerning that the braking is "still not as effective as before".
Is it possible that you got some chain lube/grease on the rotor? What is the brake fluid level is the rear reservoir?
Well, I did vigorously lubricate the whole system. Maybe I just got some lube and oil on the disc. :dunno_white: I will check it up today. The brake fluid seems to be on the interface between high and low. I was planning to fill it up this weekend anyways.
I would remove the pads,clean the brake disc with brake cleaner,install new pads and bleed them with new brake fluid.To change the rear pads remove the plastic cover on top of the caliper.Next remove the hair pins.Then slide the caliper pins out the side.Use needle nose pliers and pull the pas straight up.Remove the fluid fill cap.Rap an old rag around the sides to catch spilled fluid.Brake fluid eats paint.Take a flat end screw driver and slide it down between the disc and the caliper piston.Gently push the pistons back in the caliper.Make sure both sides are pushed in.Install pads,caliper pins,hair clips,and plastic cover.Bleed thourghly until you have a solid pedal. :thumb:
Quote from: ben2go on May 19, 2008, 12:31:36 PM
I would remove the pads,clean the brake disc with brake cleaner,install new pads and bleed them with new brake fluid.To change the rear pads remove the plastic cover on top of the caliper.Next remove the hair pins.Then slide the caliper pins out the side.Use needle nose pliers and pull the pas straight up.Remove the fluid fill cap.Rap an old rag around the sides to catch spilled fluid.Brake fluid eats paint.Take a flat end screw driver and slide it down between the disc and the caliper piston.Gently push the pistons back in the caliper.Make sure both sides are pushed in.Install pads,caliper pins,hair clips,and plastic cover.Bleed thourghly until you have a solid pedal. :thumb:
Bleeding is on my to-do-soon list! But do you actually think I need to replace the brake pads? :dunno_white:
God - never knew something that starts at chain replacement level had a major influence on the whole system :laugh:
If you can feel the back brakes working you're probably safe to ride.
Bleed them, sure. Replace the fluid, sure. Check for pad wear, sure. But get too worked up about rear brakes on a bike that has WAY more rear brakes than it needs -- nah.
Reasonable minds may differ. But I've gotten myself in trouble with the GS disc rears more than once. I have finally learned to use them LIGHTLY. I've also learned how to keep the rear end behind me when I didn't use them lightly a couple of times...
The problem with brake pads in general is they quite grabbing the rotor if the get contaminated with grease or oil.In a previous statement I believe it was mentioned that a lubricant may have accidentalily gotten on the rotor which would have contaminated the pads.For those of you that are new or have been away for a while,I am really particular about the mechanical condition of my bike.It has to be better than the manufactures standards.I have never had any of my bikes leave me stranded so far.It may happen one day.Can catch all the problems 100% of the time but I can try 100% to catch them all.So far so good. :thumb:
Quote from: astroaru on May 19, 2008, 12:08:32 AM
:thumb: Special thanks to Nikux for letting me use his tool kit and his garage. :kiss3:
Thanks for the public appreciation 8)... glad I could be of help to another GS'er :cheers:
So I rode my 02 GS all winter again splashing up and down the heavily salt water laden streets and roads of NE Ohio. Took it to the magic wand type car wash this spring and washed away all the salt, mud, road crud, etc, etc and next day all the rust on the frame, swingarm, side and centerstands, etc was that bright orange rust color and so I sprayed it all with WD-40 to dull and darken it and it looks OK now if you don't get too close. :laugh:
But! I had very little grip on the rear brake and even had slightly reduced grip on the front one. It was getting slowly better so I let it go for a few days since the front was adequate and then got caught in a monsoon like downpour and kept going being close to home. That did it, next day the brakes were good as new if not better! Super grip all around, I still have HH pads on the rear and the front Emgos are even better. Great and inexpensive pads. I eat brake pads like candy, rarely ever got your over 13k miles on the rears:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/GS500_brake_pads.jpg
So you could give that rear brake a good cleaning or just wait for a heavy rain and take a ride and do it the easy way. :thumb:
Ben2Go: You nailed it. I will do as you suggested. I am pretty new to this world and hope to have a bike that never fails on me :)
gsJack: Looks like I will take the difficult path. It hardly rains here in San Diego :laugh:
Thanks all for the suggestions. I really appreciate them. :cheers:
You're welcome.