I did a search about DIY broken fork seal replacement and I found that a lot of people recommended doing it yourself instead of being thieved by a mechanic for what he said would be a 3 hour job at $70/hour, plus parts of course.
I want to do it myself as I think that it must be done. Each morning I find little bit of oil on my driveway near the forks and I can see lots of oil on top of what I believe is the dust seal (black seal in picture).
Any help would be great, and would this be a good time to also install progressive front springs?
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z113/PT4wd/P5300226.jpg)
I just searched Replace fork seals:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=16318.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=5253.0
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=39528.0
yes do it yourself its really simple... If you need help i believe the wikki has it. While they are apart you might as well intsall the progressive springs if you have them (two birds with one stone and alll).. IF you dont have a manual i suggest getting one from the stie makes life a lot easier..good luck
The FAQ has some required reading:
1. special tool you will need - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=7084.0
2. more details on special tool - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=39547.0
3. propping up front end - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=27361.0
4. HOW TO - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=16318.0
5. another HOW TO - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=25706.msg267120
6. seal installation orientation - http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=29706.msg322084#msg322084
I also found the following website to be useful because it has lots of pics (and it's a GS500):
http://www.geocities.com/inline_four/team_smelly/diy/fork_seals/
Take your time and give yourself 3 h - 4 h. Read up on the job and ask questions before you get into the garage.
Because you have to open up the forks anyways, this would be an excellent opportunity to install Progressive springs.
Good luck! :)
For posterity, I made "the tool" using Kerry's version with the coupler and I used Gorilla glue as the binding agent... Well, after four hours I thought it should be dry enough to give it a try. I started wrenching and I thought I had it, but it was only my tool coming apart. I hurriedly pulled it out and checked for any glue in the tube. Luckily there was none. I ran a clean cloth down it just in case, but word for the wise -- at least with Gorilla, 4 hours wasn't enough.
use 5 minute epoxy, it will set anywhere :D
Buy a cheap 1/2" drive x12" long ratchet extension and a 24mm AF hex-bit, cut the extension in half and weld each end onto a 2 foot length of bright-bar. Ok....not everyone can do this, but any local Fab` shop will be happy to do this for you. It will reach down every fork leg that exsists and accept any 1/2" drive socket/hex-bit/ratchet-arm breaker-bar etc etc you want to mention. Far easier and far more versatile than messing around with bolts couplers and glue, plus it will cost you about the same to make.
This pic shows a standard 12" extension and the one I modified, its proved invaluable on many occasions over the years and not just for removing damper-rods and their fastenings.
(http://i224.photobucket.com/albums/dd92/iainmcdermott/extbar-1.jpg)
I got two bolts and a coupler, will probably solder the coupler - quick, sturdy (lots of area with the threads) and reversible. Could weld it, but it's overkill. Epoxy should also work fine - gorilla glue is not a particularly good choice, IMO.
I've tested Gorilla Glue at work, and it doesn't develop significant strength for 8-12 hours. Overnight is better. But any good 5 minute epoxy is going to be much better for metal to metal applications. It's what I used when I made the tool for the forks
Gorilla glue == terrible for this kind of job. It broke right away, so off I went to buy some 5-min epoxy.
All in, the job took me about 9 hours (which included 2 trips, one to the cycle shop and one to the hardware store).
Notes:
- Buy at least a liter of fork oil.
- Using "the tool" I broke the bolt with the fork on a rag on the ground. I braised the fork between my feet, had a wrench on "the tool," while rotating an allen wrench in vise grips the opposite direction.
- Once broken, and to tighten, I held "the tool" in a monkey wrench on the ground, between my feet with a rag around the wrench to save any damage to the fork tube, while I used the vise grips and allen wrench on the damper bolt.
- I didn't need the damper bolt copper washer or the fork bolt o-rings -- both were still perfect after 15 years.
- You hammer the oil seal until you can fully see the seal stopper ring.
Hi everyone,
First time posting to this forum and I am aware that this is an old post.
Yesterday I carried out the fork seal replacement on my 2008 gs500. I just wanted to let you guys know that the "special tool" does not apply to the 08 model because the damper rod must be different to older models and is all round. The way we got around that was to use a rattle gun (impact wrench) while pulling on the fork tube. This worked a treat, only issue is you need a rattle gun with a 7mm hex bit for the damper bolt. This took around 2h to figure out for the first fork and roughly 30min for the second. Not a hard job for a novice, just make sure you prepare yourself for the preload on the top cap (mine went flying...).
Thanks for all the info on this forum, awesome help :)
@ph00bz, just to re-confirm what you put in your GS500, was it these? https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Suspension-Fork-Springs-11-1128/dp/B000WK3PFA/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me= (https://www.amazon.com/Progressive-Suspension-Fork-Springs-11-1128/dp/B000WK3PFA/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=) My GS500 is a 2009 and I can not find the appropriate chart to see which tension I need. I looked on Progressive's website, https://www.progressivesuspension.com (https://www.progressivesuspension.com). See photo here before I sprayed down the forks to see where exactly the leak was coming from. Definitely the driver side on fork.
(http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy202/Carltheproducer/IMG_3981.jpg)
(http://i792.photobucket.com/albums/yy202/Carltheproducer/IMG_3983.jpg)
Remember it's highly recommended to always replace the bushes when you replace the fork oil seals. That Teflon wears through. Especially if fork oil was not changed periodically.
Quote from: Narcissus on May 30, 2008, 11:24:37 AM
I did a search about DIY broken fork seal replacement and I found that a lot of people recommended doing it yourself instead of being thieved by a mechanic for what he said would be a 3 hour job at $70/hour, plus parts of course.
I want to do it myself as I think that it must be done. Each morning I find little bit of oil on my driveway near the forks and I can see lots of oil on top of what I believe is the dust seal (black seal in picture).
Any help would be great, and would this be a good time to also install progressive front springs?
(http://i188.photobucket.com/albums/z113/PT4wd/P5300226.jpg)
If you have a 2004 model and beyond watch this video by delboy about replacing your fork seals. I made my own seal driver from plumbing pipe. :woohoo:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrmYJgcGX30
I used a car caliper 7mm allen tool to break the bottom bolt with a sharp twist. No special tool required!! :D :icon_razz: :cheers:
Please read my thread to see the quickest way to break the damper rod bolt from nut inside forks. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=72508.0