ok. first a little history.
well I did it. I sheered off one of my filter cover bolts over tightening it. So to begin with I feel like a dumb ass... and a little pissed cause who wants to deal with that. At this point I think I've read every post on the subject and I've applied PB blaster and hammered and vice gripped and finally after soaking every couple of hours for like 2 days the bolt turned. I was psyched but after I turned it a couple rotations I realized its not coming out...I think it's just spinning.
so here's my question...
Is that possible? am I screwed or what? I'm afraid I've just broken the bolt at a different point and now I'm gonna have to drill it out. Which I'm pretty sure involves removing the whole front end... I'm doing progressive springs this weekend anyway so maybe I'll do the full job instead of the lazy man's method... although I had planned on going lazy.
has anyone faced this same issue? anyone want to offer some advice? I surely would appreciate it. at this point should I keep at it with the vice grips and hope for the best? or should I cease and desist to employ some other method? Is it possible for me to do any serious irreversible harm here?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
d
hey. sorry about the double post y'all. how do I delete one?
d
if you feel you're in over your head, take it to a machine shop. they'll get the stud out, put a heli-coil in (if it's even needed) , and have you happy as a peach in no time.
(all machinists aren't assholes, we just smell like em ;) )
well, I'm hoping not to have to take it to a machinist. If I can get it done myself I will. Any one have a preferred method for these types of situations?
Quote from: ohgood on June 02, 2008, 05:12:44 PM
if you feel you're in over your head, take it to a machine shop. they'll get the stud out, put a heli-coil in (if it's even needed) , and have you happy as a peach in no time.
(all machinists are assholes, we just smell like em ;) )
I don't know if that was a typo or not, but it's funny either way :laugh: ;)
ok, try this: http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id10.html
Quote from: beRto on June 02, 2008, 06:29:19 PM
Quote from: ohgood on June 02, 2008, 05:12:44 PM
if you feel you're in over your head, take it to a machine shop. they'll get the stud out, put a heli-coil in (if it's even needed) , and have you happy as a peach in no time.
(all machinists are assholes, we just smell like em ;) )
I don't know if that was a typo or not, but it's funny either way :laugh: ;)
freudian slip ! (i fixed it) :D
I had this same issue, and did not feel comfortable doing it so I called a shop. They wanted a ridiculous amount of $$. So I got the bolts from them and did it myself. Now first thing, how much stud is left? Also it took me about 2 hours to screw it out, same as you I thought it was just spinning or my grip was slipping. Watch the stud closely and verify it is spinning. If it is spinning and broken it will pull out. My guess would be it is on its way out.
cool. the bolt is definitely turning. there is enough left for the vice grips to get a hold or to try the 2 nut method. I'm hoping its on its way out or else sounds like its e-z out time...
Yeah Keep trying, just be careful and don't put too much stress on it.
It looks like I posted in the double-post..... http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41849.0
I'm reading Pablo's FAQ page, but I'm at the stage before this, I think.
QuoteSeriously? You posted this 5 days ago?
I just had the same thing happen to me today. The first cap/nut came off with no problems. The "top" 2 just spin; they won't tighten, loosen, or come off. They spin, but they're so close to the plate that I cannot even get my finest flathead screwdriver under it. Visegrips have gotten me no where.
I was thinking about a nut cracker, maybe something like this:
http://www.jackstoolshed.zoovy.com/product/20662A?meta=FRG&utm_source=GBASE&utm_medium=CPC&utm_content=&utm_campaign=
However, there's not a lot of space in there. A Dremel, which I don't own, is the only other thing I can come up with, but that is probably bad because I would probably wreck the post since I've never used of those before. The odd thing is that the seal hasn't been broken; no oil has come out from under the plate. I could almost put the one nut back on and sleep for a little while knowing that I changed the filter the last 10 times...
Any thoughts or help for the 2 of us?
Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to get the acorn nut / cap nut off of the bolt since it's just spinning on it now?
Quote from: pennstump on June 08, 2008, 10:43:50 AM
Does anyone have a suggestion as to how to get the acorn nut / cap nut off of the bolt since it's just spinning on it now?
Maybe the whole stud is backing out? Look very closely to see if the stud is moving when you try and unscrew the acorn nut. If the stud is coming out, you may want to consider replacing both the stud and the nut (assuming the nut is "frozen" onto the stud). You could also force the nut off and clean up the threads; a new stud is so cheap that you might as well avoid the hassle.
Thanks for the help. I've still never seen any oil come out from the cover, so the o-ring seal hasn't been broken, yet. I have 2 "spinning" cap nuts that I've turned enough for them to have come out about 10x by now and the plate is still tight against the block.
I can't see the stud, but I will try to unscrew both at the same time and see if that gets me anywhere. If not, do you know of a way to tell if the stud is moving along with the nut?
Quote from: pennstump on June 08, 2008, 10:56:02 AM
Thanks for the help. I've still never seen any oil come out from the cover, so the o-ring seal hasn't been broken, yet. I have 2 "spinning" cap nuts that I've turned enough for them to have come out about 10x by now and the plate is still tight against the block.
I can't see the stud, but I will try to unscrew both at the same time and see if that gets me anywhere. If not, do you know of a way to tell if the stud is moving along with the nut?
if you turn the nut with a ratchet for 45 seconds, ya, the stud is spinning, no doubt. :)
i wouldn't ride it like that. if the o-ring lets loose of the oil, it's gonna coat your back tire and crash you. 3 quarts can come out QUICK !
Should I, dare I say it, then try to pry the plate off of the block?
Sounds like the thread has stripped. I would try gently levering the nut away from the cover with a fine flat-tip screwdriver while at the same time turning it as normal.......not saying this will work but if you are lucky it might just pick up on some good thread and back off. Failing that you will have to Dremel the nut off and replace both the stud and nut......but as Ohgood says, drain the oil first!
The saga continues...
I received my Dremel today and proceeded to cut off the acorn nuts. I cut off the caps, then made a cut across the bottom of each nut and pulled the nut apart with a screw driver and eventually bent the nut apart and off using vise grips.
The first 1/4 inch of the 2 spinning bolts were completely blank -- no threads. Now I have to get the post bolts out.
I first tried to slot one of the bolts since I had my shiny new Dremel toy. I then inserted a flat-head screwdriver and tried to unscrew it. Nothing. After about 5 seconds I just bent the bottom piece of metal. Then, I tried to use the vise grips to turn the bolt -- nothing. Then came a couple rounds of WD-40 and more tries. Nothing.
What should I try next to get these bolts out? They're both mostly there, but there's very little room to maneuver.
Know any pro-mechanics etc who might have one of these?
http://webserver.diygear.com/acatalog/DiyGear_com_Stud_removers_281.html
I wish. If I knew a pro I'd have paid him off with beer about 4 days ago...
Pity......if you had been here in the UK I would have lent you mine, vise grips are not really the best way of removing studs.
OK, but thanks for the info. As I can tell, here are my options:
- Keep spraying penetrating oil and try to wrench these bolts out with vise grips across the remaining threads. RISK: Breaking it off.
- Dremel the bolt to have 2 flat areas and then the same as #1. RISK: Breaking it off.
- Try the "2 nut trick." RISK: There's very little room to maneuver and I don't think this will work with the current state of the bolts.
- Weld something to the bolt. RISK: I have no idea how to do this, nor the equipment.
Is there anything else I can do in this small space to remove these seized bolts?
Perhaps removing the front wheel will give you more space and increase your chances of success?
Have you tried tightening the stud; this might help to break it loose?
I've never tried this, but I know others have had success drilling the stud and using an Easy-out. Again, you will probably need to give yourself some more room in order to do this. Pablo's site mentions this method briefly:
http://pantablo500.tripod.com/id10.html
good luck with this.... Mine finally came out ok. wd-40 wasn't enough. I bought a can of PB blaster and used it ALL (probably overkill). soaked the posts every few hours for 2 days. occasionally gave it a mild tap or 10 with a hammer (I almost applied direct heat but didn't end up having to). Then, once the post finally began turning, I stayed at it with the vice grips and the PB blaster. it took about a half hour to turn the post all the way out. just take care not to break off the post or you'll end up having to take off the front end to use an ez-out. I was really paranoid of that happening so I took it super easy with the vice grips (like a quarter turn at a time...) and make sure the post is turning and that you're not just grinding it down with the vice grips. I'm routing for ya.
d
Perhaps you could try fileing 2 flats opposite each other on the stud close to the block with a view to getting a small open-end spanner on them. Then play some heat on the stud from a blowtorch to swell things up and gently rock the spanner and try to free it off. I would avoid playing a flame on the engine cases, it discolours the metal and destroys the sealant between the mating surfaces and causes major oil leaks.
I wouldnt bother with an easy-out, they are over-hyped and nowhere near as effective as some would believe, particularly when used on small diameter items. You could Gas-weld (Braize) a nut onto the end let it cool and try to turn it with a good quality socket.......or you find a tool like the one in my previous post, they never fail to work, the beauty of them is the fact the tighter the stud is held in, the tighter the grip it makes on the stud itself.
Success!
It looks like the 1/2 gallon of WD-40 and some elbow grease took care of them. I was able to break the bolts with the vise grips, then I slotted the ends with the Dremel and screwed them out with a screwdriver.
....whew....
:cheers:
Quote from: pennstump on June 12, 2008, 07:21:57 PM
Success!
It looks like the 1/2 gallon of WD-40 and some elbow grease took care of them. I was able to break the bolts with the vise grips, then I slotted the ends with the Dremel and screwed them out with a screwdriver.
....whew....
:cheers:
Fantastic! Congratulations :cheers:
Now show us a pic of the aftermath... :laugh:
On Friday 13th too?........... Do me a fave and pick me any 6 numbers between 1 and 49 for tomorrows lottery :laugh:
SUCCESS! ME TOO!
After getting my bike just a few weeks, ago, I did a oil change the first day I got it and :mad:
At least 1 stud stripped, and none of the acorn nuts would really get tight. I had a small oil leak of a couple drips when the bike would sit. It progressively got worse until I was leaking a drip almost constantly, smoking oil off the headers at stoplights, etc and had to stop riding it.
Ordered up 3 new studs from bikebandit, 3 new acorn nuts, new o ring gasket and waited.
Today I got them, and started the install.
Was able to undo 2 of the acorn nuts, but the 3rd would just spin. Even with an impact on there to really try and get it off. Finally was able to take a pair of dykes and cut the acorn part off, then eventually cut the nut off.
Went to Home Depot and got 2 appropriately sized nuts and tried the 2 nut method. CRAP! The back nut would just push the front nut off/thru the threads as I tried to undo it.
Soaked in PB, got some visegrips super tight on there, no dice. Gave some firm taps on the end of the stud with the grips on there and finally POP! Got it! Take a look at the stud :o The end section is where the nut was sitting and would just spin, couldnt grab any threads.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/SandInspiredKustomz/99GS500E/DSC06119.jpg)
Now to get that one put back in, and might as well replace the other 2 as well.
What do you guys think about lock titing the studs in there?
All i hear on this whole subject is they only have to be a TOUCH tighter than Finger tight, so do it finger tight, and then add a tiny bit on it ,
If u loctite it in , its going to be very hard to remove?
Im talking about the stud. I dont want the stud ever coming out or spinning when I tighten the acorn nut, and I am going to be extra super careful every time I change the oil so no need to ever replace the stud again.
2nd one is out - only one more to go! :cheers:
Quote from: SIKDMAX on June 16, 2008, 04:28:42 PM
Im talking about the stud. I dont want the stud ever coming out or spinning when I tighten the acorn nut, and I am going to be extra super careful every time I change the oil so no need to ever replace the stud again.
2nd one is out - only one more to go! :cheers:
The problem is that if the stud ever breaks you'll have a bugger of a time getting it out again!
Well how the heck is the stud supposed to stay in there? :dunno_white:
Whats to say that one time when I remove the acorn nut instead of coming off the stud, it just turns the stud out with it?
:cheers:
All is done and boy am I relieved. That is the one "problem" I had with the bike. Everything else is just performance upgrades/cleaning. Dealer quoted me $340 to fix the studs!
So happy so happy :icon_lol:
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r58/SandInspiredKustomz/99GS500E/DSC06120.jpg)
Quote from: SIKDMAX on June 16, 2008, 04:52:12 PM
Well how the heck is the stud supposed to stay in there? :dunno_white:
Whats to say that one time when I remove the acorn nut instead of coming off the stud, it just turns the stud out with it?
You fit the stud with torque thats about 20% higher than the nut needs. This way the nut loosens off way before the stud does. Loctite is used for safety critical parts subject to heat and vibration or that move or rotate, no need for it on the stud and as mentioned previously it will be even more difficult to remove should the need arise........unless you like struggling.
Quote from: beRto on June 12, 2008, 08:53:00 PM
Fantastic! Congratulations :cheers:
Now show us a pic of the aftermath... :laugh:
OK... finally charged up the camera. Here are the casualties.... beware... :oops:
(http://i30.tinypic.com/2emms69.jpg)