Got it all done tonight, had a machine shop friend do the bracket which took a week to get back.
I didnt have to use a spacer anywhere like what was said in pantablo's post. Nowhere to fit it in at all.
Wheel and tire feel lighter than my stock one but might just be me. Definate improvement in the tire over what I had on there before!
Here are the pics.
Rear Shot (You like the gloves Pantablo?)
http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=acrpt24&album_id=145226&image_id=27
http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=acrpt24&album_id=145226&image_id=26
Side Rear shot
http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=acrpt24&album_id=145226&image_id=23
Look ma no spacer
http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=acrpt24&album_id=145226&image_id=25
Perfect Chain alignment
http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=acrpt24&album_id=145226&image_id=24
Oh yeah no rub on the brake stay arm either, I removed the chain guard cause I like the look and chain wax doesnt fling up all over.
Larger pics can be emailed but printroom.com resizes.
Looks good, Jason. Nice work!
You gotta post an evaluation of the handling difference now.
Sweet.
What year rear did you find?
Rear wheel is from a 89 GSXR 750 I got off ebay. Tires are metzler Sportec M-1's. Tires are night and day difference from my old flat ones. Leaning into turns the bikes just falls over and I have to correct myself or I take the turn too sharp. Bike is very light and flickable now.
Does your rear brake pad make full contact with the rotor?
Just about full contact I am still rubbing the rust off the rotor but it looks like 3/4 contact. I'll take pics after some more riding to show how much is being used.
Looks good. I gotta get me one of those...
oh yeah, :nana:
what is the widest GSXR rim one can use without changing swingarm?, Im working on a mod to relocate the Brake stay arm.
i know 4.5 works, what about 5 and 5.5" rims
Well the problem spots are the brake stay arm and the chain alignment. I have a few mm on each side for clearence with my 150 tire. 160 tire would need the brake stay arm bent out and the chain will have to be spaced out. Joris has info on his website for this. I think the 160 will be the limit on tire width and a 4.5 wheel will handle this fine. You could also get the GSXR wheel widened to 5.0 or 5.5. Bob got his stock wheel widened to 4.75 wasnt it Bob?
The 88-89 GSXR wheel was used so you can direct swap the GS cush drive onto it, I dont think the other ones will work.
But wasnt the early gsxr wheels 18"? or was that GSXR 1100 only?
Yep pre-88 wheels were 18. 88 they went to 17" and the 88-89 GSXR 1000 has a larger hub and wont work with the GS its 88-89 GSXR 750 only.
Great, now there'll be a higher demand for gsxr wheels.
one last thing...
Just want to confirm that the only gsxr parts used are wheel, center spacer, rotor. All other parts are gs500 parts, right?
Quote from: JasonBWell the problem spots are the brake stay arm and the chain alignment. I have a few mm on each side for clearence with my 150 tire. 160 tire would need the brake stay arm bent out and the chain will have to be spaced out. Joris has info on his website for this. I think the 160 will be the limit on tire width and a 4.5 wheel will handle this fine. You could also get the GSXR wheel widened to 5.0 or 5.5. Bob got his stock wheel widened to 4.75 wasnt it Bob?
The 88-89 GSXR wheel was used so you can direct swap the GS cush drive onto it, I dont think the other ones will work.
I had my stock wheel widened by Kosman to 5". That's as wide as they could go when starting with a 3.5" wheel. I have a Bridgestone 165 slick on there now, but will prolly try a Pirelli 160 slick or Dragon Supercorsa next time. The 165 interferes with the chain by a couple of mm, but I just let it rub (the inside of my chain stays nice & shiny :thumb: ). On the brake side I run a different caliper than stock so I don't have a brake stay at all anymore, but the stock stay would definitely interfere big time if it was still there.
I had considered having Kosman widen my front wheel to 3.5" also, but they said they couldn't do that. The range that they could widen a wheel was 3/4" to 1 1/2" if I remember right. I don't know the reason, it's just what they told me. BTW, it was quite expensive & if I had to do it over again, I think I'd try to find a different solution.
Quote from: pantabloone last thing...
Just want to confirm that the only gsxr parts used are wheel, center spacer, rotor. All other parts are gs500 parts, right?
Yep and I left the cush drive spacer things in from the GSXR wheel. You will have to put in the GS bearings and cush drive and slap it on the bike.
I think you need a little more than 10mm taken off the caliper mount, I had a machine shop friend do it and I didnt need the spacer and the outer pad (towards swingarm) rubs just a little bit. I'll have to measure again to see if he didnt do less than 10mm.
got a wheel without the innards...will need to source out gsxr center spacer, LH cush drive bearing, rotor and new gs500 wheel bearings.
the 'project' begins...never taken a wheel apart before.
:o
when you get the wheel put together could you post some dimensions of the bearings when installed like how far the space is between the two ends of the bearings. and congrats on the wheel :nana: :thumb:
so does the gs wheel have two bearings (one each side) then an additional bearing in the cush drive? thats what the bikebandit schematic looks like (parts no. 14 x2 and 15)?
http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandit/showschematic.asp?dept_id=138470
Yep two bearings in the wheel on either side of the spacer, then just use the GS cush drive (you will need to use the GS cush cushions too) So you need the GSXR center spacer and brake rotor and bolts to hold the rotor to the wheel. I dont think the GS cush bearing is out on your bike already Pantablo.
Good price on the bare wheel hope you can find the other parts cheap. Actually I think I saw a center spacer on ebay but dunno if it was for 88-89 GSXR, nope wrong year.
JasonB,
Curious about something...after reinstalling your shaved caliper bracket how much clearance do you have between the brake line banjo and the muffler? I ask because mine seems to be rather close-close enough to make me think if it moved 10mm it might hit muffler.
also, fyi-center spacer and two gs500 bearings came to about $30 on ronayers.com
I have a good 3/4-1" space from the banjo to the muffler.
You can see it here it this picture I have a higher res on on my PC ( :guns: printroom.com resizes pics!) I can email it to you if you want to see it closer up.
http://www.printroom.com/ViewAlbumPhoto.asp?userid=acrpt24&album_id=145226&image_id=27
And I still think you need to remove a bit more than 10mm, but try that first and fit it on. I am just gonna let the pad wear until it stops rubbing. It rubs a little now but not really noticable just see a lot more brake dust on the rear wheel.
After further measurement review of mine I think the machine shop guy took off less than 10mm right around 8mm it seems so that would be why my brake disc rubs and I didnt need a spacer. When I get some time I'll have to have some more taken off. Width of the washer I am gonna use should be just fine.
I've got to get around to fitting a permanent solution to my muffler hanger. cutting off the stock rear pegs/muffler hanger and using the gsxr ones left the muffler closer to the banjo-by less than 1/2"...but it's rubbed when someone got on the passenger seat with me...hmm.
Need to weld a bent plate to the muffler hanger bracket itself I think.
Yep I was thinking you had different passenger pegs and that was the problem. Just bend the bracket out more so it sticks out farther from the bike. Dont need passengers!
I don't understand how the steering could feel more "light & flickable" than with the stock size rims.
My old GS500 racebike had a GSX-R 750 front wheel and Bandit rear wheel, and the steering was slower than on my street GS.
My TT600 steering feels slower than my GS500 street bike, although the TT600 has much better suspension and overall handles much better, but the steering is a bit slower, but some of thay may be attributed to the profile of the Bridgestone BT020 tires. It has a 120 front & 180 rear tire.
Ever notice how skinny the 125cc GP bike tires/wheels are? They are extremely flickable in corners because of the skinnier tires.
My problem was I had stock tires on the bike from 95 with 2k up to about 6k when I changed them. The tires were hard as bricks and starting to weathercrack. And the rear wheel was squared off. So by the time I got used to the bike enough to try flicking it around the tires were way past thier prime. I put the front tire on first for a week with the stock rear and I could tell a huge difference of the bike would drop into the corner much faster and sharper. Then putting the rear and front together was scary at first at how fast it fell into the corner and how tight I could turn.
So my thoughts might be biased because I went from really crappy tires to really good tires along with the rear rim swap. I am using the stock size front tire. And I am running Metzler Sportec M1's.