OK do they have a "break in" period.
I had them hand tight with the weight on the front wheel as I was tightening it. The handle bars turned out to be fat too tight to run comfortably. so I back it out 1/4 turn and its great. So is hand tight too much for them.
Cool.
Buddha.
My Clymer book says 20 to 36 foot pounds of torque.I'd say they're too loose.
torque specs are useless on the stem bolts IMO. Tighten it to spec (or guess, because let's be honest, who has that special socket?) to seat the bearings, and then back it off and tighten until it feels right
For Stem bearings I always tighten them to the higher end of the Trq. value then back it off about a 1/4 turn or until the steering movement feels normal. I do the same with wheel bearings and such, think my Dad use to call it seating the bearing?
The procedure is to tighten the stem nut up to 40-50Newts (29-36lbft in old money). Flick the stem from side to side 5 or 6 times to seat and line the raceways up, (I find a light tap on the stem with a soft mallet helps).....THEN......back the stem nut off by 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Adjusting headstocks or any other component that uses 2 taper rollers nose to nose is one of those things best done by feel, they need to be loose enough to allow the yoke to freely move and at the same time tight enough to prevent excess movement. Slightly loose is better than slightly tight......... If you want to be anal about it and do the spring-balance thing, Suzuki quote 200-500 grams to move the bars.