based on other posts
if when on the highway, and i back off on the throttle the acceleration gets better that may mean that i am lean, so screw it in or out
currently now at exactly 3 turns,
Well doubt that air screw has anything to do when you are up high in the rpm range...You may need to block off 1 of the slide holes. Anyway what set up are you using.
Cool.
Srinath.
currently
stock exhaust
foam filter
125/40 with 2 washers
currently at 3 turns out on the screw
and oh yeah, I can smell gas from the exhaust once in a while
bike jsut doesn't seem .....zen,
carbs are synched, both sides of the carbs are set up identical, 3 turns
but when up about 5 or 6000 RPM it kinda stumbles when accelerating hard
i've tried it at 2.5 turns, 3.5 but found jsut leaving it at 3 since everyone else has it there
wondering if teh vacum may be messed up, fuel starvation
With stock pipe...and UNI...maybe take off 1 washer...see the other thing I believe has been sorta lost in the shuffle is that I used these thin washers...I have no idea what they were, just that they were thin (under 1/2 mm thick) and they fit...and recently there has been an explosion of numbers...some say #2 some say #4...and I used the thinner one in the GS and few weeks ago John sent me wahsers that are more thicker and seem like the ones I used in my eliminator (keihein carbs)...so I am just thinking some people may be putting in 1-2 of the thicker ones...making the needle too rich. So I'd start by removing 1, and see how it is, and maybe see if thinner ones are available and use that instead of the thick one.
Cool.
Srinath.
i remove a washer tonight, thanks!
Quote from: klimberand oh yeah, I can smell gas from the exhaust once in a while
bike jsut doesn't seem .....zen,
carbs are synched, both sides of the carbs are set up identical, 3 turns
but when up about 5 or 6000 RPM it kinda stumbles when accelerating hard
i've tried it at 2.5 turns, 3.5 but found jsut leaving it at 3 since everyone else has it there
wondering if teh vacum may be messed up, fuel starvation
OK Here is a tip...problems when demanding power (acceleration etc) are rich, problems when not demanding steady throttle etc...are lean. You, I believe at 5-6K...what is the throttle setting for it BTW...are rich. So if that's right about 1/2 throttle I'd take one washer off and see.
Cool.
Srinath.
would this explain why the bike runs great around town, but kind sloppy on the over 60 MPH!
i'll get back to only one washer tongiht and report back -kris
maybe related, maybe not....
now when starting from COLD
when i slide the choke, it used to have an effect as soon as i touched it, now from point A-Z it sortof kills the bike hen about 1/2 way kicks in andoes it's thing
after being on for a minute, and i start backing it off, it will start to slow the rPMS if i don't shut it off quickly
I am a bit confused...But I'd say sort out the jetting top down...Mains first, needle next, float level next, air screw next...so dont worry much about starting just yet. That will come soon...you can adjust just that area wihtout touching the rest so you should do it last.
Cool.
Srinath.
so how does one adjust the float level?
doesn't float level apply to the washers?
You take off the bowl and bend the metal tab that pushes the float needle into the seat. It will make it close earlier or later depending on how you bend it. That has no effect on the needle jet. Float needle or needle valve is different from needle or needle jet. Needle jet can be also raised ( or lowered in case of aftermarket) with washers or with adjustable "e" clips. OK fine if you must please check the float level. Use the U tube method. Make sure the floats are right at the top of the float bowl and no more. Dont adjust them. Then take out a washer from the needle. Taking out the washer wont touch the float level. I was asking you to check it just in case one is wildly off. That would be bad.
Cool.
Srinath.
LOL You are going to tie that guys brain into a knot.
it's knoted!
last night i removed a washer, took it for a ride and hated life......more stuttering from the engine than ever before.....promptly went home and put it back to two washers, much much better, still has the staggering at high speeds when i gun it
thinking maybe turn the screws from 3 to 3.5?
Mix screw controls the idle...setting it to 3.5 will make it richer at idle but wont do a thing up top...well here is the thing...it sounds like you have a rip in the diaphragm...see if they are good and intact...if they are then try another washer (unless they are very thin 2 should be plenty...you may need to go up a mina jet but 125 is plenty again for you setup...also see if you have a missing hose or a rip in one of the hoses from the airbox). You also may have a slide that comes up too fast...but that will be a problem if you open the throttle too fast, but will behave if you open slowly. 1 change at a time. And dont lose your patience. And check your float level...they should be equal and be right at the top of the bowl.
Cool.
Srinath.
daiphrams are good, checked them over last night
i'll do some tracing of the hoses and lines tonight
and float levels, ????? not sure , kinda nervous checkin that, pulle dthat dammed thing apart enough now, but will have to if hoses look good!
thanks for your help!
when i re-jetted, i didn't touch teh float level, was i supposed to bend or adjust something
i am assuming there is a spring clip or someting i shoudl bend up/down (in that thing in the poor man's pictorial is it on the thing that he sas was supposed to be white?)
Float level can be chekced from outside completely...using the u tube method.
Clear plastic tube fitting tight on the drain...Then putit in prime and opne the drain. Do 1 carb at a time and mark off at the carb where it is. It should be right to the top of bowl and no more.
Cool.
srinath.
holly float bowls bat man i think i actually understand what you mean
kind alike those liquid auquarium tubing level things...what ever
but i get what you mean
and thanks, tearing that stuff apart again was gunna make me nuts!
I am assuming you mean level with the gasket seal correct?[/img]
See if this will help...
Float Height Check on a Suzuki GS500E (http://www.bbburma.net/FloatHeight.htm)
EDIT: Changed link from sisna.com to bbburma.net
holly cow that was incredible
thanks,
If the bike has 40 pilots and the brass plugs are taken off the air screws...I do all my jetting (except needles washering) with the carbs on the bike, and the whole damn thing still assembled...dont even take off the tank or side panels...Replace float bowl bolts with allen bolts and you never have to take it off...Needles are harder to fiddle with IMHO...
Cool.
Srinath.
sorry...
IMHO?
Those hobby airplanes have silicone hoses that pretty much last forever..They nevre harden and are clear/semi clear and they are good...Only problem is they done come in the fuel line size...but I believe its comming soon....cos I have seen it for cars.
Cool.
Srinath.
sorry Srinath, i was about to e-mail you but kerry' s pictoral was clear as day thanks again
yet another bike that has the same symptoms as me. Im hoping someone figures this out. Try pulling the filter and take it for a ride.. if it works awesome without a filter then you have the same situation as me. And ill cry.
If the engine picks up when you roll the throttle closed slightly form wide-open-throttle, the main jet could be lean or rich. If you have a 150 main Rashad, and it runs better without the airfilter at WOT, then your main jet is too big. 140 should be absolute max without considerable engine work.
Best way to tell which side of the right mixture you are on is either a WOT plug reading, on new plugs, or just pop the airfilter. If the pick-up when you close the throttle slightly is gone without the airfilter, you need a smaller main jet.
My recommendation for a stock engine with the stock exhaust, airbox, and filter would be 127.5. This is the factory jetting for Canadian bikes, with a 40 pilot. If you pull the airbox and use pods, and have a complete aftermarket exhaust, probably 135 is about right - depends on the altitude and temperatures you ride in.
Well, i have V&H pipe and 127.5 mains... so im thinking i just need to get a new filter(clogged) or get pods and up the mains..
i did the U float level check and it is right at the gasket level!
i also pulled the in-tank filter, nothing clogged and no sign of rust, traced all fuel and carb lines. found one that was a bit pinched between the airbox and other misc lines, lossened it all up a bit
won't be able to tell if there is any difference till tonight, never made it up to highway spped on the way to work today. unless you count it highway spped being backed up traffic but you still on the hightway