What all do I need to order for the fork seals? just 2 seals and 2 dust caps? Also what would be the best place to order from?
I got mine off eBay way back when. But now I order all my parts from bikebandit.com
And get fork oil. I have two pints in mine, I think.
Yep, seals, caps and oil... You will also need to make or have a special tool to remove the bottom bolt down inside the tubes... search "fork tool" or similar :cheers:
That special tool is a lifesaver...however if you have an impact wrench and the appropriate allen head to fit it that should work as well. :thumb:
BTW that is to break the bolt which holds the damper rod in the fork
Yeah I have the thread for the special tool bookmarked, I also have a small compressor and impact wrenches so that might make it a little easier. Thanks for the help Ive never done this before so i hope it wont be too bad, it doesn't seem too complicated.
Long ass (2 ft) 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe and a block of wood ... + all the other crap you got.
Be careful unscrewing the damping rod from the leg, the sleeve is made of plastic ... yes plastic. You spin too much with a power tool, you can gall and chunk it.
Cool.
Buddha.
I always wondered how an impact wrench would work in lieu of the tool. The tool is to hold the head of the rod steady while you loosen the bolt. Without it, the whole assembly just spins. Wouldn't using an impact just make it all spin faster? How does that solve the problem?
Quote from: Mandres on August 06, 2008, 09:14:08 PM
I always wondered how an impact wrench would work in lieu of the tool. The tool is to hold the head of the rod steady while you loosen the bolt. Without it, the whole assembly just spins. Wouldn't using an impact just make it all spin faster? How does that solve the problem?
a lot of the time the impact will break it loose, and once it's loose the spring tension will hold it good enough to go... I didn't know it was plastic though, I'm about to do it on mine in a couple days... maybe I'll have to make the tool
Just a note on the PVC pipe for the seal driver, make sure you're not using thin wall pipe. schedule 40 is the stuff you want.
The damping rod is steel. The fitting that goes around that is plastic. You can spin the damping rod, just dont spin it too fast ... :mad:
I was actually unable to get at the top side with the tool on 1 cos it was bent. I put it in a vice, and pulled on the lower leg while my welder hit the bolt with his impact wrench. It took a while where it just spun, but finally came out. Its seriously not fun. A katana FE has a metal collet in place of plastic, with a mushroom head and there is a releif cut in that head for a drain bole. Further the hole through the muchroom is D shaped, as is the damping rod. The drain bolt holds the mushroom, which in turn holds the damping rod. You unbolt the damping rod with the drain bolt in place and you will never have it spin ... special tool not needed.
BTW that spinning and special tool, endemic to most bikes, the 4 types of kawi's I have split, the honda, the whole kit and kaboodle ... all of it will spin and each one requires a different tool. Kawi's need a Loooooong J shaped rod. Some others need a 18 or 19 mm wrench. I could make a tool for the GS ...
And yes on bob-biker ... do not use the thin sheite, and make sure its not got jagged edges.
Cool.
Buddha.
Also if your fork tube sliders have any defect at all like a rock chip or a rust spot, it will not ever seal up. I have some pics I got from a couple of em. You should examine it thoroughly before you even take it apart. It may be better to ignore it or replace a leg or both with known good ones.
Cool.
Buddha.
thanks for all the help the sliders look good, its actually just leaking on one side, the dust cap is old and like falling apart. Its not leaking bad but you can feel the oil. So I guess its time to replace, both of course.