I am being lazy right now, Im sure my Clymer will tell me some info. But anyone know if I should use motorcycle specific oil? This is my first oil change. Will autozone have my oil filter? How many quarts of oil?
Thanks guys and gals.
Go out there NOW and hit all appropriate fasteners with PB Blaster - to pave the way for tomorrow. Many tales of broken studs at the oil filter cover. Use a touch of anti-seize when re-assembling, and the next time won't be bad.
As for lazy, well, search here, eh - easier than opening a book, but I don't know why anyone other than you ought to do it. Plenty of oil discussions, flame wars, etc to entertain you. And don't forget the Wiki (see sticky link at top of page 1)
here's the wiki link....
http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Maintenance/ChangeOil (http://cgi.stanford.edu/~sanjayd/gs500/Maintenance/ChangeOil)
easy stuff ;) Just make sure you get the right oil filter... the first time I did it, i got the wrong one and was confused for a good while :cheers:
Quote from: Domindart on August 09, 2008, 06:46:47 PM
I am being lazy right now, Im sure my Clymer will tell me some info. But anyone know if I should use motorcycle specific oil? This is my first oil change. Will autozone have my oil filter? How many quarts of oil?
Thanks guys and gals.
The bike uses SAE 10W40 oil and needs 2600 ml (2.75 quarts)
Replace the seal behind the cover, should be a new one included with the the filter. Dont be tempted to reuse the the old one and most important...dont overtighten the nuts holding the cover on. You will strip the threads and turn an easy job into a nightmare.
thanks guys I think I go it. the wiki really helped
they (autozone) ordered a fram, the only one they could get. So tues it will be in.
About 3/4 turn past hand tight is what I found to be perfect for the filter cover bolts. As far as what oil, do your own research and use what leaves your mind at ease.
Quote from: SteveM on August 10, 2008, 05:18:52 AM
Quote from: Domindart on August 09, 2008, 06:46:47 PM
I am being lazy right now, Im sure my Clymer will tell me some info. But anyone know if I should use motorcycle specific oil? This is my first oil change. Will autozone have my oil filter? How many quarts of oil?
Thanks guys and gals.
The bike uses SAE 10W40 oil and needs 2600 ml (2.75 quarts)
GS500 takes 2600 ml (2.7 US qts) without filter change and takes 2900 ml (3.1 US qts) with filter change according to Owner's Manual.
I put in 3 qts with or without filter change, has worked for me for 140k GS500 miles.
thanks guys....I will be doing it tues probably. :)
Tip for an easier oil change:
before warming the engine up, "unlock" then tighten again (just a bit!) the oil drain plug and the three filter cover nuts. Then start the engine, warm it up and proceed normally.
This way, you'll avoid fiddling too much with those bolts (which might be a little seized after some thousand miles) near a HOT exhaust pipe. :thumb:
+1 on "Do NOT overtighten bolts".
Hey, I know we're all interested in saving the planet and being green, but I'm not sure vegetable oils are good for these engines. I wouldn't change my oil to marrow, but maybe canola would work? :laugh:
Quote from: simon79 on August 11, 2008, 02:19:03 AM
Tip for an easier oil change:
before warming the engine up, "unlock" then tighten again (just a bit!) the oil drain plug and the three filter cover nuts. Then start the engine, warm it up and proceed normally.
This way, you'll avoid fiddling too much with those bolts (which might be a little seized after some thousand miles) near a HOT exhaust pipe. :thumb:
+1 on "Do NOT overtighten bolts".
great tip, thanks
finally getting this done. guess I HAVE been lazy. lol :dunno_white:
I bought filters at Autozone, Advanced and NAPA. They always had them in stock.
As in the Wiki, careful not to use oil labeled "Energy Conserving". It'll specify it on the back of the bottle, at the bottom of the circle that tells you the oil viscosity.
Quote from: ATLRIDER on September 13, 2008, 05:59:57 AM
I bought filters at Autozone, Advanced and NAPA. They always had them in stock.
As in the Wiki, careful not to use oil labeled "Energy Conserving". It'll specify it on the back of the bottle, at the bottom of the circle that tells you the oil viscosity.
thnx atlrider, Im doing this now. :thumb:
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/Domindart/bikes/DSC07734.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/Domindart/bikes/DSC07735.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/Domindart/bikes/DSC07736.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/Domindart/bikes/DSC07737.jpg)
(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/Domindart/bikes/DSC07738.jpg)
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(http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/Domindart/bikes/shiny3.jpg)
I attempted the oil change today. The filter is a 6001 and not a 6000. I found out the wrong part by trying to get the new gasket to fit. See pic- its too big :mad: So Ive got to get the right filter then finish the oil change. So mad..... But oh well! It was real easy otherwise. Just loosened everything before warming up the engine/oil.
I found out my header is loose. see pic. It lost its two hex bolts. Should I just go match the existing bolts at ace hardware?
Theres also afew cosmetic things I want to fix. see pic. The exhast has scratches, think I can sand and buff that out? And the gauge pod has a bad scratch too. Maybe Ill sand that down and repaint it. Anyone done this?
Thanks for reading . The last pic is what I want my next bike (if a buell) to look like . (red with polished rims. nice!!!!!!)
Yea my friends bike also somehow loosens the header bolts. This bike also chronically unscrews the speedo from the guage cluster. Strange. My maxim used to loosen the speedo nut, I never had a problem in its headers.
Cool.
Buddha.
Ooops!
Note: The Fram form gasket is a little small for the groove. It WILL fall out of the groove when you upend the lid to reinstall it on the engine, or pop out of it's own accord whenever it feels like it.
To help with this issue, heat the form gasket with a hair dryer and stretch it while allowing it to cool. This will expand it a little. Use some wheel bearing grease in the groove to hold it in place.
Advance Auto generally stocks the CH6000.
Quote from: GeeP on September 14, 2008, 04:46:15 PM
Ooops!
Note: The Fram form gasket is a little small for the groove. It WILL fall out of the groove when you upend the lid to reinstall it on the engine, or pop out of it's own accord whenever it feels like it.
To help with this issue, heat the form gasket with a hair dryer and stretch it while allowing it to cool. This will expand it a little. Use some wheel bearing grease in the groove to hold it in place.
Advance Auto generally stocks the CH6000.
Great too big, then too small.. :icon_confused:
Also! I want to check my chain tension. I dont know if its too loose or okay. I checked the wiki and it said something about a tape measure and checking the measurement. Can anyone explain to me how to do this? thnx :dunno_white:
I've put lockwashers on my header bolts to prevent them from loosening. So far so good.
Good luck.
got this done. I just stretched the gasket a bit and it fit. I think lol
Anyone have suggestions about the cosmetic things I mentioned????
Domindart, check the chain tension before a ride with the bike on the sidestand. In the center of the bottom run of chain you should be able to push the slack up about .8" to 1.2" with your finger.
You can sand out the scratches in your gauge pod starting with 220 sandpaper and working to 800 paper. Fill any little defects with "icing" available at NAPA auto parts stores. Then sand it smooth. Re-paint any color you want with a rattle can.
The exhaust scratches won't buff out. The exhaust is chrome plated steel or aluminum. The scratches have worn though the chrome.
Quote from: GeeP on September 15, 2008, 06:00:08 PM
Domindart, check the chain tension before a ride with the bike on the sidestand. In the center of the bottom run of chain you should be able to push the slack up about .8" to 1.2" with your finger.
You can sand out the scratches in your gauge pod starting with 220 sandpaper and working to 800 paper. Fill any little defects with "icing" available at NAPA auto parts stores. Then sand it smooth. Re-paint any color you want with a rattle can.
The exhaust scratches won't buff out. The exhaust is chrome plated steel or aluminum. The scratches have worn though the chrome.
thnx for the reply. and darn about the exhaust scratches lol. :icon_lol: