can anyone share the setup that they use for carb cleaning. I did my KZ750 a few years back, and my memory for the deal is only of the back pain I suffered, and the stripped screws I created in the process. I'm tempted to get a solidly mounted vice, but what do you pad the vice with to prevent damage.
Thanks for all the great helps around here. I've succsessfully resurected my bike after a LONG wait, with loads of help from you folks.
I don't know what you'd use a vice for. It's pretty easy. Use the right tool for the job and you shouldn't strip anything either...even proper size phillips heads will make a difference.
Check out this page for a step by step walk through, with tons of pictures. I think it's the best pictorial on the process there is.
http://www.angelfire.com/mt2/mikesgs500/rejetting/
Quote from: icabodcam on August 11, 2008, 03:54:46 AM
can anyone share the setup that they use for carb cleaning. I did my KZ750 a few years back, and my memory for the deal is only of the back pain I suffered, and the stripped screws I created in the process. I'm tempted to get a solidly mounted vice, but what do you pad the vice with to prevent damage.
Thanks for all the great helps around here. I've succsessfully resurected my bike after a LONG wait, with loads of help from you folks.
I clean and rejet them a lot, vice usually doesn't come into the picture. I'd do it for $45 for you.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks for the reply. I guess the real question though is how one provides the requisite pressure on the screws when the carb wants to run all over the place...that's how I hurt my back last time, bent over the carb on the floor for hours. I guess I'll just have to stretch first this time!
None of the screws should be that tight. If you need that much pressure, then use a penetrating lube, and let it sit for a bit. They should come out fairly easy though.
Also...lefty loosy, righty tighty. That might be why they are so tight. :)
Gee is that it? Turn left after all these years?! :laugh: I dosen't matter anyhow, if they strip I'll blame the kids, I'll just get my son to help out so I have an out!
I've not done any carb work on this GS, I can tell you though that Kawasaki builds tanker ships, and they used to (I had a '79 KZ750) tighten down the float bowl screws as if they were holding in 20million barrells of crude, plus there were four on both ends. i think those were keihin, the GS has a mikuni right?
Thanks again for the help, the WD40 on a toothbrush from that link is pretty smart too, never thought of that.
:dunno_white: Hey, just throwin' it out there :laugh:
If they're super tight, another thing that you can do is to cut a notch in one direction with a dremel or something, and use a flat head. Probably should replace afterward, but it would give more leverage, and you could attach it to a ratchet, so you can use a breaker bar if necessary. Last resort of course, but it would work. don't want to break off the head though.
And yes, these are Mikuni carbs.
I drill em ... leftie bits to the rescue baby.
Cool.
Buddha.
Could pick up one of those impact drivers as well, I suppose.
Impact driver is what I used last time...and as far as the ease out, lefty bit, I discovered it's not wise to use on a hardened steel screw in an alloy container...there goes my front master cylinder, drill bit follows path of least resistance.
A guitar string :thumb: To clean out the teeny tiny piping :cheers:
I think I used an A string :icon_mrgreen:
SO THE UPDATE...
75% came off clean, no troubles, 25% locked and had to be drilled. My extractors are horrible, required lots of pressure to remove, just wouldn't bite. Got some nasty bruises during the process.
Carbs are spotless, piston guide was stuck, luckilly i had the new needle jets in hand, and just punched them out.
Only one major problem, got everything reinstalled, even the side panels, when my fuel line decided to give up the ghost, and split clean at the fuel valve on the tank. I got to the valve after about 1 gallon came out. Gives a whole new meaning to 4 on the floor ($4 of gas that is!)
Thanks for the help folks.
Glad you had success. I did a similar thing a few months back where I lost about 1 gallon after the tank tipped, and the fuel line sheered.
two important tools for carb work
a GOOD(almost NEW) phillips screwdriver
and
a needle nose VICE GRIP ......on the head of the screw
use both at the same time and the screws will come out
I'd reccomend to anyone doing this like me to get a screwdriver with a hex attachment near the handle, they cost more, but definatly made a difference this time, a wrench for extra torque is NICE. Also, I bouht all screws and both needle jets before starting, so I could drill and hammer to my hearts content. It's about $90 for parts but considering I paid $300+ for the mechanic to do it last time, I'd say it's a pretty good deal.