i just bought a 96 gs500e a couple weeks ago. the oil isnt terrible but im gonna go ahead and change it anyway(no tellin how long its been since a change). the cap says 10w40 i think. im not gonna cheap out on my oil, i ride my bike kind of hard i wanna get good performance oil. what do you guys suggest? and how do you feel about synthetic?
Oh boy, here we go! :icon_mrgreen:
FWIW, Rotella T 15w40 is cheap, plentiful and more than acceptable.
On the GS500, you'll run out of valve shims and room to grind the valve tips before the bearings and cylinder walls become marginal. ;)
Go synthetic from a major oil company and you can't go wrong.
I went Amsoil synthetic 20w50 on my 05
Quote from: GeeP on August 22, 2008, 03:54:34 PM
FWIW, Rotella T 15w40 is cheap, plentiful and more than acceptable.
That's what I use. I like how it comes in gallon containers... Why bother with synthetic oil when it won't substantially increase your engine life and you could be spending the extra money on gas or sweet upgrades?
I am rocking the mobil 1 10w40 motorcycle oil in mine, though it burned some off in the stupidly hot weather we have been having so I topped it off with Mobil 1 10w30 I had left over from an oil change on a customer's car so it has Bikejunkie's Custom Blend!
There are a million answers to this one. Any 10w/40 made for a bike is fine. I use Honda or Kawasaki own brand 10w/40.
Quote from: simoniz on August 22, 2008, 05:39:18 PM
There are a million answers to this one. Any 10w/40 made for a bike is fine. I use Honda or Kawasaki own brand 10w/40.
Is it REEALY that important to run a motorcycle oil? Cant I get away with regular 10W40 oil?
As you know quite well from having been here through prior rounds of the eternal oil question/flame war, you can use any 10W40 that is not labeled "energy conserving". "Energy conserving" labeled oils have friction modifiers that wet clutches don't like.
MHO - cheap adequate oil changed often is batter than fancy-schmancy expensive oil changed less often. Adequate does not mean lousy, adequate means sufficient to do the job - and you don't need (or make use of) anything more than that. Spend more if you like, but it won't make it work better.
Quote from: galahs on August 22, 2008, 04:21:43 PM
Go synthetic from a major oil company and you can't go wrong.
NOT true. You have to be a little more specific with synthetic oils when they're used with wet clutches. ;)
any kind of good car oil that's slippery will do. lol
except the stuff with the extra slippery additives. :icon_mrgreen:
BeSafe
Quote from: theUBS on August 22, 2008, 08:40:32 PM
Quote from: galahs on August 22, 2008, 04:21:43 PM
Go synthetic from a major oil company and you can't go wrong.
NOT true. You have to be a little more specific with synthetic oils when they're used with wet clutches. ;)
Ok, as mentioned, don't use energy conserving oil. If you want to be safe use an oil designed for motorbikes with wet clutches.
I personally use Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 synthetic
Sledge: Hello MrDealer, I would like to buy some cheap 10w40 SF oil for my bike please.
Dealer: Sure, any particular brand?
Sledge: The cheapest.
Dealer: Synth, semi or mineral?
Sledge: The cheapest.
Dealer: We have ****** on special offer this month are you interested?
Sledge: Is it the cheapest?
Dealer: errrr no.
Sledge: I want the cheapest.
Dealer: Are you sure?
Sledge: Its going in a GS500E not a f***ing R6.
Dealer: Ahh that 30+yr old 8v aircooled twin, that was designed way before semi or synth oil exsisted? Why didnt you say so? There you are sir, 5lts of out cheapest 10w40.
Sledge: Thank you.
That conversation has taken place at least once a year for the past decade.
Just because its an old engine doesn't mean it can't benefit from improvements to oil technologies.
Quote from: galahs on August 22, 2008, 11:54:21 PM
Quote from: theUBS on August 22, 2008, 08:40:32 PM
Quote from: galahs on August 22, 2008, 04:21:43 PM
Go synthetic from a major oil company and you can't go wrong.
NOT true. You have to be a little more specific with synthetic oils when they're used with wet clutches. ;)
Ok, as mentioned, don't use energy conserving oil. If you want to be safe use an oil designed for motorbikes with wet clutches.
I personally use Castrol Edge Sport 10W-60 synthetic
Okay, I'm satisfied now. :laugh:
Personally I use Mobil1 Racing 4T 10W-40 mainly because synthetics flow better when cold and take the heat without thermal breakdown better than ANYTHING out there, maybe I'm a fool but when I have one of my bikes spooled up over 10,000 RPM I know I have done all I can do to avoid metal to metal contact :thumb:
Now having said that, changing your oil on a regular basis is more important than what oil you use! :cheers:
Quote from: sledge on August 23, 2008, 04:52:36 AM
Sledge: Hello MrDealer, I would like to buy some cheap 10w40 SF oil for my bike please.
Dealer: Sure, any particular brand?
Sledge: The cheapest.
Dealer: Synth, semi or mineral?
Sledge: The cheapest.
Dealer: We have ****** on special offer this month are you interested?
Sledge: Is it the cheapest?
Dealer: errrr no.
Sledge: I want the cheapest.
Dealer: Are you sure?
Sledge: Its going in a GS500E not a f***ing R6.
Dealer: Ahh that 30+yr old 8v aircooled twin, that was designed way before semi or synth oil exsisted? Why didnt you say so? There you are sir, 5lts of out cheapest 10w40.
Sledge: Thank you.
That conversation has taken place at least once a year for the past decade.
+1, and perfect.
Quote from: galahs on August 23, 2008, 06:16:51 AM
Just because its an old engine doesn't mean it can't benefit from improvements to oil technologies.
well, yes an no. you actually ARE benefitting from the oil technology improvements, without having to pay premium price. see, as things generally get better, even the 'low' grades of things become better. and since we ALL KNOW that the dipstick has it printed right on it, I won't comment on the type/grade/best/worst/blah about oil in a gs500.
change it regularly, change it properly, and don't redline it. it'll ride.
i use 40 weight synthetic oil and change it every 500 miles... i don't need to but i do. why? because i am not a cheap ass and i love my motorcycles
That means you must spend about as much on oil as you do on gas Franko......ever thought of extending it to 1000miles and having a night out once in a while?? I am sure the bike will be ok :laugh:
Ya know recommended service interval for oil change on new Ferrari's is 5k miles. Every 500 miles is a waste.
opsie type o i meant 1500 miles
Quote from: sledge on August 23, 2008, 04:52:36 AM
Sledge: Hello MrDealer, I would like to buy some cheap 10w40 SF oil for my bike please.
Dealer: Sure, any particular brand?
Sledge: The cheapest.
Dealer: Synth, semi or mineral?
Sledge: The cheapest.
Dealer: We have ****** on special offer this month are you interested?
Sledge: Is it the cheapest?
Dealer: errrr no.
Sledge: I want the cheapest.
Dealer: Are you sure?
Sledge: Its going in a GS500E not a f***ing R6.
Dealer: Ahh that 30+yr old 8v aircooled twin, that was designed way before semi or synth oil exsisted? Why didnt you say so? There you are sir, 5lts of out cheapest 10w40.
Sledge: Thank you.
That conversation has taken place at least once a year for the past decade.
funny conversation. .. manual calls for 10W40 i just get whatever, low-fat, no-preservatives 10W40 that Walmart stocks .. they've got Castrol, Quaker State, Valvoline and Penzoil ..all priced about the same.
Speaking of walmart, i'll probably get flamed for this, but...
When I owned a turbo neon I would use their SuperTech synthetic oil (grey bottle) changed every 3k miles religiously. Engine never gave me any trouble during the 105k miles I owned it, over half of which was on power levels well above stock.
edit - over at www.bobistheoilguy.com you can get good information on oil.