So I went for a ride today, got back just now, and decided to check the oil level in my gs. After I wiped off the dip stick and put it back in to check it, there wasn't even anything on the stick! Did it just burn through the oil? How much am I looking at to add to it? Or would I be better off just draining the rest and then filling it back up with 3 quarts?
I've also never had to add oil to it...where does it go in?
Do you regularly check your oil (every 2 fuel stops is a good marker)?
If yes: How many miles 'til it was fine?
Did you make sure the bike is level? I.e. mainstand on even ground or level whilst you sit on it.
If you don't have an oil leak (check top and bottom of engine), the oil get's burned, SUZUKI states that 1l/1000km (1l/600miles) is fine!
You're looking for about 0.5-1l oil missing, pour 0.5l in and see what happens.
BTW: Anybody got a good converter for whatever meassurements you guys use? :laugh:
Did you have the bike on the center stand when you checked? If not, your reading means nothing... Put the bike on the center stand on a level surface, turn it on and let it run for a bit then turn it off and check your oil. Remember that the dipstick does not get screwed in to check the oil accurately, just wipe it off, put it back in without screwing it in then check your level. If you still are reading low, add oil the the hole the dipstick came out of. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but from the bottom of the dipstick to the top is about a quart... Also, remember that putting too much oil in the bike is just as bad as letting the level run too low.
How did you check the oil level? This thread describes the correct procedure:
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41989.0
Quote from: theGrinch on August 28, 2008, 03:42:56 PM
BTW: Anybody got a good converter for whatever meassurements you guys use? :laugh:
Google does an amazing job of converting units. So much so that I've stopped using anything else. If you just type "1 L to quarts" it will tell you. It will do pretty obscure units too, so if you're interested in knowing how many tablespoons are in a hogshead it will tell you:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=87&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=1+hogshead+in+tablespoons&spell=1
Quote from: fred on August 28, 2008, 03:51:21 PM
Google does an amazing job of converting units. So much so that I've stopped using anything else. If you just type "1 L to quarts" it will tell you. It will do pretty obscure units too, so if you're interested in knowing how many tablespoons are in a hogshead it will tell you:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=87&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=1+hogshead+in+tablespoons&spell=1
Cool! :thumb: I had no idea - thanks for sharing!
Quote from: beRto on August 28, 2008, 03:58:45 PM
Quote from: fred on August 28, 2008, 03:51:21 PM
Google does an amazing job of converting units. So much so that I've stopped using anything else. If you just type "1 L to quarts" it will tell you. It will do pretty obscure units too, so if you're interested in knowing how many tablespoons are in a hogshead it will tell you:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&client=firefox-a&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&hs=87&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&q=1+hogshead+in+tablespoons&spell=1
Cool! :thumb: I had no idea - thanks for sharing!
Sure thing! It is a totally handy feature. I don't even remember what I did before I figured that out...
Well, I'm stupid, I didn't even have it sitting upright. Checked it the proper way though, and it's still at the bottom line, so I need to fill it up anyway. The oil for sure goes in the same hole?
Also, will castrol gtx 10w40 work?
Any 10W40 that does NOT say "energy conserving" in the little circle is fine. "Energy conserving" is bad for wet clutches - too slippery.
I found out that the gs500 models burn a lot of oil. Check your oil every fill up to be more safe. Remember it's better safe than sorry.
Quote from: DoD#i on August 28, 2008, 05:13:04 PM
Any 10W40 that does NOT say "energy conserving" in the little circle is fine. "Energy conserving" is bad for wet clutches - too slippery.
+1
Quote from: DoD#i on August 28, 2008, 05:13:04 PM
Any 10W40 that does NOT say "energy conserving" in the little circle is fine. "Energy conserving" is bad for wet clutches - too slippery.
I don't agree with any oil. I mean ANY 10.40 will work but it's better to get quality. I found out the hard way.
Quote from: Skeets on August 28, 2008, 06:00:36 PM
I don't agree with any oil. I mean ANY 10.40 will work but it's better to get quality. I found out the hard way.
Going off your last thread I don't really know what you found out. You said your bike gets hot and ticks, you changed the oil to Castrol and it still gets hot and ticks. I hardly think that's proof positive of one oil brand of oil over another!
Quote from: philward on August 28, 2008, 06:24:10 PM
Quote from: Skeets on August 28, 2008, 06:00:36 PM
I don't agree with any oil. I mean ANY 10.40 will work but it's better to get quality. I found out the hard way.
Going off your last thread I don't really know what you found out. You said your bike gets hot and ticks, you changed the oil to Castrol and it still gets hot and ticks. I hardly think that's proof positive of one oil brand of oil over another!
Now you ticked me off (haha). I also said that it was hard to shift with Rotella. With Castrol it isn't.
My point was that quality oil is better than getting the cheap stuff. My bike is ticking regardless of the oil. I could put it anything. It's because my bike gets so hot.
Quote from: mistykz on August 28, 2008, 04:48:28 PM
The oil for sure goes in the same hole?
Yes. I'm pretty sure that's your best option. :icon_rolleyes:
...or you could pull the filter cover off, take out the filter and pump it in...
OR...put the bike on a rotisserie, turn it upside down, remove the drain plug and put the fresh oil in there. Just be sure the dipstick is secured. :thumb:
...I apologize in advance for being an A-hole. :oops: :icon_mrgreen:
no problem :icon_razz: just didn't want to mess anything up.
but, i did anyways. put a bit too much in there...its up to the actual lettering on the stick that says F. would loosening the bolt on the bottom be the best way to drain some out?
i check my oild aevery friday...
thats normally 400 or so miles...
i fill it up and keep on going..
of if i found myself putting on alot of miles... i'll top it off early.
they do burn oil.
and more so when you beat on em to 9/10k
Quote from: mistykz on August 29, 2008, 06:28:47 AM
no problem :icon_razz: just didn't want to mess anything up.
but, i did anyways. put a bit too much in there...its up to the actual lettering on the stick that says F. would loosening the bolt on the bottom be the best way to drain some out?
Personally if its just on the letter F then I would not bother trying to drain the excess off. Suzuki know that riders will potentially overfill the oil a bit so there is a fair bit of tollerance beyond the marked area before anything disasterous will happen. Once you've clocked up a few hundred more miles you will find the level will be back within the normal markings. However if its above the F mark on the dipstick then you certainly should try and drain some off to avoid any risk of causing engine damage. As for oil types the best choice is to go for a "semi synthetic" SAE 10/W40 oil. Do not use a "fully synthetic" oil as they can seriously shorten the life of your engine.
All air cooled engines use oil. The rate varies from bike to bike and depends on a range of factors including how enthusiasticly you ride. A GS will typically use between 0.2 and 1 litre of oil per 600 miles, so its worth taking some simple steps now to find out how much oil you bike is actually using. This will also give you a useful benchmark to assess whether or not you have a problem. Every time you refuel the bike simply record the mileage and check the oil level - most garage forecourts are pretty level - take a note of how much oil is needed to bring the level up to the full mark.
Any dramatic increase in oil consumption needs investigating before you wreck your engine.
Good luck
SkiMad
Quote from: SkiMad on August 29, 2008, 11:17:18 AM
Do not use a "fully synthetic" oil as they can seriously shorten the life of your engine.
Really?......Can I ask how and why?
Thanks everyone, I'll have to start tracking all of that. Still under the 2k mile mark
Quote from: sledge on August 29, 2008, 11:22:51 AM
Quote from: SkiMad on August 29, 2008, 11:17:18 AM
Do not use a "fully synthetic" oil as they can seriously shorten the life of your engine.
Really?......Can I ask how and why?
Certainly.
Living in the Alps I regularly ride with members of the French GSowners club (http://gs500e.free.fr) - they have a very active website with heaps of useful info on how to maintain your GS500 (as long as you can read French). I quote below one article relating to engine oil which explains why semi synthetic is the way to go (I hope my translation is pretty accurate).
Translation :-
Check the level of oil regularly, ESPECIALLY if you have just acquired your GS until you get to know what its typical consumption rate is.
It is VITAL to realise that all GS's WILL consume oil, although some more than others. A harshly driven bike will generally result in excessive consumption, likewise bikes with higher mileages. The GS with its air cooling, typically consumes about 0.5Litres of oil per 1000km, however the latest GSF faired versions have an additional oil cooler incorporated within the fairing which helps keep oil temperatures lower and results in slightly lower oil consumption.
BUT remember some bikes will consume more, some less – however such consumption rates are well within normal operational specifications.
When consumption exceeds 2Litres/per 1000km then it is worth rebuilding the engine. Note - to secure the best resale price, it's also worth replacing the valve seals at the same time. Otherwise you may be storing up further problems if you don't only change all worn components during a rebuild. After a rebuild, its worth cleaning/replacing the spark plugs after 500km to prevent any residual burnt oil building up and preventing effective spark/starting. Remember without proper maintenance your motorcycle will work less well.
Don't use fully synthetic oil, it is expensive and is unsuitable for the GS. These types of oil include detergents specifically designed for cars, which may result in enhanced friction/scouring of pistons and an increase in engine wear. When such oils are used in a GS engine which experiences relatively high operating temperatures due to its air cooling, the consumption of oil will significantly increase with no real benefit. Hence it is sensible to avoid buying a motorcycle that already consumes oil or that is known to have been used with fully synthetic oil.
The best choice is a semi - synthetic oil (multigrade SAE 10W40)
However you can also use any mineral oil (multigrade 20W50, or slightly thicker) if your GS has an elevated oil consumption (especially as its not as expensive). In which case its also important to carry out more regular oil and filter changes (every 4-5000km) because mineral oils deteriorate more quickly than the semi- synthetic oils.
How do you check the oil level? Take the bike for a short run until the engine is hot or warm. Stop the engine and place the bike on its Centre stand on level gound! (This is important to avoid incorrect readings.) Remove the dipstick/filler plug located on the righthand engine cover. Clean the dipstick with a clean rag. Re-insert the dipstick into the filler hole so it sits centrally in the hole, BUT WITHOUT screwing it in. Now withdraw the dipstick and note the level shown on the dipstick. (NB its VERY worth keeping a record of your findings, noting also the date, mileage and how much oil was added to refill the reservoir so it JUST reaches the upper mark on the dipstick).
WARNINGS If you over-fill the reservoir you will cause serious damage to the oil pump. If the level is a little bit below the minimum level this is not generally catastrophic, but it is vital you undertake regular checks on the oil level.) The difference between the upper and lower dipstick level marks is equal to 0.5Litres.
OK I know what type of oil to choose but I still don't know what the numbers mean: 5W50,10W40, 15W40, 20W50.. etc...
First number: indicates the viscosity (stickyness) when the oil is cold W: For winter (winter) Second number: indicates the viscosity (stickyness) when the oil is hot (eg the normal operating range). High indication = viscous oil. Check the back of the can: API SF, SG, SH... SL: it is the norm. SF = old, SL = recent norm (in 2004). A low W number will aid starting whilst a high hot number will help reduce oil consumption in higher mileage bikes.
To know more try: http://www.marly.com/fr/infos/classhuil.htm.
Lack of oil is the NUMBER 1 reason for engine failures in the GS500.
CHECK YOUR OIL LEVEL REGULARLY.
Some very debateable comments in there. I particularly like the suggestion that overfilling can cause oil-pump failure, now that IS a new one :laugh:. I have yet to meet anyone who has suffered engine damage as a result of using synth instead of mineral oil in any bike. In fact plenty of people in here use it in their bikes and...........well no-one ever seems to complain. If you choose to believe all that well thats your prerogative but I hope you understand if I say I find parts of that very hard, in fact almost impossible to believe :dunno_white:
here is a question for everyone, I don't have a center stand on my bike due to it conflicting with the exhaust....what is the best way to get an accurate reading? I have been sitting on the bike and leveling it by eye....no issues yet. I change my oil very often though.
Get someone to hold the bike upright while you dip the stick :dunno_white:
Quote from: SkiMad on August 29, 2008, 11:17:18 AM
Do not use a "fully synthetic" oil as they can seriously shorten the life of your engine.
I'm calling BS on that one as well. Cite evidence if you wish to make a (bogus) claim like that!
Ain't true!