Has anyone tried Mobil 1 0W-40 motor oil? The bottle doesn't say "energy conserving" at the bottom of the API logo. It seems like it might be just the ticket for really cold weather. Not that my 5w-40 hasn't been working just fine... :dunno_white: I'm just not very good at leaving well enough alone.
I think I've always used the Mobil 10W40. It's the 5000 miles kind. Never had any issues.
0W huh? That's like... Sewing machine oil, right? :icon_mrgreen:
Hmm... I run 15W40 all year round here. The manual allows it down into the high teens as I recall. Never had a problem starting down to zero F.
Might try a 10W this winter. But a 0W? Hmmmmmmm...
Quote from: GeeP on September 20, 2008, 10:31:25 PM
0W huh? That's like... Sewing machine oil, right? :icon_mrgreen:
Hmm... I run 15W40 all year round here. The manual allows it down into the high teens as I recall. Never had a problem starting down to zero F.
Might try a 10W this winter. But a 0W? Hmmmmmmm...
I typically ride at temps down to about 14 degrees F, any lower and I can't keep my helmet from fogging up- meaning it's time to drive something with a heater & defroster! Those colder temperatures are why I switched to 5w-40, because it
does start quieter and with less fuss with 5w-40 versus 10w40 at those temperatures. I'm not much of an oil aficionado, but seeing it at NAPA the other day made me wonder if there was a good reason Mobil was making the stuff. (probably because someone will pay money for it...)
Car engines are going to lighter and lighter oils, mainly for energy conserving reasons. When the regulating body forces you add 2MPG to all your products and you can't eek out higher performance, cutting lubricating fluid viscosity is a quick fix-all.
0W is a standard oil in Alaska during the winter, but we're talking -30F to -60F startups.
I've ridden regularly in the 0F to -5F range with 15w40. The only trouble I've encountered (beyond attempting to stay warm) is somewhat lethargic cold starting. Like I say though, I haven't tried a lighter winter oil. I might do that this year. :thumb:
Also, it might be worth some cylinder baffling at those temperatures to prevent water condensation.
Quote from: GeeP on September 21, 2008, 02:40:30 PM
Also, it might be worth some cylinder baffling at those temperatures to prevent water condensation.
What is cylinder baffling? :dunno_white:
Just something semi-permeable on the front of the engine to get the temperatures up. The engine will run much colder in the winter than in the summer. Adding a little baffle or screen on the front would keep the temperatures up.
It's just a muse, I've never done it.
I use the 15W-40 Delvac 1300 or Rotella T heavy duty oils year round in my 02 GS and have started it up at temps down to about 15F. I wouldn't put a 0W-40 oil in an air cooled motorcycle.
always use 10w60, different bands but still 10W60 with no problems
:cheers:I use RotellaT full synthetic in my ST1100 and Mobil1 4T Racing in my Speedmaster. I am going to put RotellaT in my GS500 on the next change. Is the 0w-40 a car oil? If so I would be more concerned about the shear qualities than the weigt since the engine and trans use a common oil.
I wouldn't hesitate too much on using a 0w-40 in winter / cold climates but it defiantely wouldn't be my first choice of oil in normal / summer riding.
Wait, so my 0w20 in my race motor is a bad thing? :)
(Ok, so I haven't resorted to that yet in the GS, but I do use it in an air cooled single with good results, sucker spins up like a top.)
Nobody uses 10w40? My dipstick has 10w40 stamped on it so that is what I've always used. Hardly uses a drop.
Silkolene Comp-4 10w40 in my race GS, it's not burning any, but is pushing some from the base gasket and cam chain tensioner... I'm rigging extra crankcase breather ports this winter.