Just braved a DIY valve clearance check, results as follows:
L Ex and L Int: both between .038 and .051 mm (0.051mm would NOT fit) (Standard gauges with Metric equiv markings)
R Ex: and R Int: both +/- snug at 0.51mm
(Standard feeler gauges with Metric equiv markings)
1) Does the difference between R and L measurements matter? It's occured to me that without knowing both the existing shim size (too big a pain to remove at 8pm w/out needle nose pliers) and the amount of wear in the valve seat, that the diff may not translate to any actual difference in valve opening amount. It does sort of suggest, however, that the L side valves may be getting pushed open maybe .01mm more than the right. May all be moot, as I'd read that shims only come in steps of .05 (hence the .05mm diff between high and low spec in the clearance range...)
2) Does anyone have a spec on how much side to side wiggling of the camshaft(s) is OK? The location of the shim on the intake cam is such that my Suzuki-esque vavle tool can't press the shim holder without pressing down the shim as well. I'm reluctant to pull off the camshaft, but that sure would make further messing about with the shims easier.
Many thanks for any input.
Those are all to spec so I'd let them go as is, no need to change any shims yet. I don't use a Suzuki valve tool, I hold the bucket down with a screwdriver placed vertically on the edge of the bucket on the far side of the shim. I lift the shims out with tweezers when I change them. I'd never pull the cams to change valve shims and I've changed a bunch of them.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/ValveShimTools.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/valveclearances.jpg
Good stuff, many thanks.
I'll button up the top tomorrow and give the carbs a once-over while I have the tank off.