I was inspired by russomf and quiktaco's streetfighter/cafe build. my rear fairings were cracked and in kindof rough shape when i bought the bike from previous owner. I have since taken them off and sold them.
what i have done:
reupholstered the seat
relocate wiring under tank (i'll explain later)
changed spark plugs
new front turn signal
new D.I.D o-ring chain
front sprocket
rear sprocket
.95 Sonic Springs
cut the rear frame (after wiring was finalized)
Cut off rear pegs
relocated license plate
create bracket for seat lock
new fuel lines + inline filter
K&N filter
Yosh RS-3 slipon (having trouble finding an exhaust shop to agree to modify)
Buddha magic carbs (40 pilots 150 mains 1 washer 3 turns)
Buddha brand fork brace (powder coat blue)
Katana 750 rear shock with remote resevoir (DROP IN!!!) (thanks Buddha)[/s]
zx636 integrated LED tail light
electronic blinker relay (solves LED blink problems)
89 clipons (thanks Buddha)
20ft paint job with PJ1 fast black epoxy spray paint. (will try a roll on paint come spring)
Charged battery
Bar end mirrors
Katana clutch perch/lever
aftermarket footpegs
blue led in instruments
2006 gsxr 600/750 forks (update 2009)
2006 gsxr radial calipers with master cylinder and brake lines (update 2009)
2006 gsxr axle/spacer (update 2009)
01-03 (k1-k3) gsxr wheel (update 2009)
Katana/SV650 Rear wheel (powdercoated white)
320mm Rotors (k1-k3 / hayabusa) (update 2009)
2006 gsxr clipons (update 2009)
New GS500 steering bearings (update 2009)
Acewell 280x Series Gauge (update 2009)
WORKS Performance rear shock (10/2009)
Planning for future:
Big bore for larger pistons
SV650 headlight
TOOLS I USED:
wrenches
sockets
drill (with bits for metal)
angle grinder (grinding stone, cutting disk)
nuts bolts, screwdrivers
soldering iron
zipties/electric tape/really really small female spade terminals
heat shrink wrap
Wiring:
I went to radio shack and purchased a "project box". I mounted this box using two short pieces of aluminum angle stock. 4 holes in the bottom of the box, two on each side. i bolted it to the angle aluminum. I drilled a hole in the aluminum and bolted it to where the stock airbox mounted. (see pictures below). Now to get the wires into the box; i carved out some slots on the front and back of the box so the wires can enter the box. THE WIRING WAS LEFT INTACT. I ONLY EXTENDED 4 WIRES. I mounted the "ECU/brain thing" thats normally found on the left hand side under the project box. i relocated the rectifier to the old ecu/brainbox location. The only thing what is behind the battery is the 5 wires that go to the tail light.
Frame:
After the wiring was all set, i was clear to cut. This is my first motorcycle. I don't plan on having a passenger as its only used to commute to and from school (60 miles/day). I used the cutting disc on the grinder to chop off the rear right after the lower/upper frame join. (like russomf's ride). i cut the rear pegs but left enough to mount the muffler, when/if this happens. after all was cut/grinded smooth, i sprayed it with two coats of spray paint. But i'm really interested in roll on application when it gets warmer in spring. i also painted the headlight bucket black, and while i know its a spray job, i'm pretty happy with the results.
onto pictures. the bike runs great, but is still needing the pipe welded on. I have been to two shops and they say their welding machines would blast right through the thin midpipe section so modifying it would be difficult. i dunno, i really wanted to avoid spending more on a full header back. but the sound of the rs-3 is amazing and was much cheaper.
Things i need to do:
learn how to do valve clearance/adjustment
extract a seized bolt from the far left of the head
learn how to align the rear wheel
(learn how to swap the bandit 600 wheel i have sitting in my room)
someday katana fe/brakes
create brackets for chin fairing i have.....or just sell it and get a case guard (re: my first bike) not sure yet
pictures?
Before chop/ after wiring:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/322490342_1101204528_0.jpg)
what wires look like:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3303.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3306.jpg)
the project box/wire concealment:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3311.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3316.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3324.jpg)
out with the old, in with the new
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3319.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3320.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3321.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3323.jpg)
holy crap, i'm missing a rear caliper bolt
i'll take more pics when its nicer out, and hopefully after i get the yosh on
i wanna see a vid of it running too, with and without yosh
:bowdown: :bowdown:
Mate! That's just sweet.
I started reading this post and was like "sweet! Another '91 GS with that paint scheme. That's the one I used to have." Then it clicked in: "Cracked plastics .... mine had a crack in the back ... woohhh ... dude ... that's my old bike." You've done something wicked there. Looks absolutely amazing. Heck of a lot better than half the CBRs cruising Thayer.
I raise my pint to you, sir. :cheers:
looks like you're having fun modifying things :)
but holy chicken strips batman !!! ;)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3303.jpg)
OK I now understand why spring in blue ... its gonna be more visible with no inner fender.
OK That spring is unscrew type, not press out type. You start on the 2 locking rings with a spanner. You get it to just that top part under the banjo and the spring would be loose. Then You should be able to get the 2 1/2 moons out from the retaining ring. Send me those and I'll do em in blue. Or you can lightly sand it and paint it to match. My blue ... well its blue, will not match the bike's blue ... I know, I have that same blue.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: hotrodstu77 on October 17, 2008, 09:41:02 PM
i wanna see a vid of it running too, with and without yosh
it's real loud. i'll try to see if i can borrow something to take a video clip. I honestly think its so loud, the sound bit will be distorted.
i tried it with the yosh and it PURRS i love it. i'll try to do before and afters
Quote from: ohgood on October 18, 2008, 03:13:25 AM
looks like you're having fun modifying things :)
but holy chicken strips batman !!! ;)
i love modifying things; it's also why i chose mechanical enginering as my major.
When i had my old 99 impreza (wrx swapped) lots of tinkering.... I was huge into suspension and brakes. (autocrossing and rallycrossing). i made a writeup of how to modify 04 STi control arms to fit the older GC chassis and posted up the alignment/suspension changes.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_4177.jpg)
I was also one of the first (actually the first but its desputed) to do a HID projector retrofit on Del Sol's. I even coordinated a group buy to get custom molded non fluted lenses from egypt long before aftermarket headlights were made available for del sols. also one of the first on 04/05 imprezas. I made a set for Myles, the owner of Racecomp Engineering (tuner/supplier) before he sold his car. and also did several for friends.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v91/stillwill/Myles%20pics/Projectors%202/ygp851B.jpg)
Tested poltec suspension products when they first came out for cross compatability
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/TrailingArms011.jpg)
::steps off high horse::
as far as chicken strips. The bike had a new set of tires when i purchased it. i just threw it all back together this past week and plan to put several hundred miles on it soon :D
Quote from: The Buddha on October 18, 2008, 05:35:34 AM
OK I now understand why spring in blue ... its gonna be more visible with no inner fender.
OK That spring is unscrew type, not press out type. You start on the 2 locking rings with a spanner. You get it to just that top part under the banjo and the spring would be loose. Then You should be able to get the 2 1/2 moons out from the retaining ring. Send me those and I'll do em in blue. Or you can lightly sand it and paint it to match. My blue ... well its blue, will not match the bike's blue ... I know, I have that same blue.
Cool.
Buddha.
yea it would have been sweet but its not a big deal, i dont have the spanner to adjust the preload (its real stiff) so i doubt i'll get the spring off. the shock works great otherwise! makes a squish squish noise when it compresses and rebounds
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/Mdobroth/1st%20photo%20shoot/DSCN0925.jpg)
(http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p31/Mdobroth/1st%20photo%20shoot/DSCN0932.jpg)
nice i have a 2000 OBS i race AutoX
yay!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_1635.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_4167.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/3521.jpg)
i sold mine for tuition but my GF also has an 04 wrx swapped RS coupe (silverthorne metallic also lol). It's practically a clone of mine but without the vf34 but she does have a full STi dash swap as well. (gauge cluster sweep and all)
f*uck wrx that subie's like sex
after doing all this work why didnt you change out the front forks to a gsxr or kat.. especially if you are into suspension..??
money is tight at the moment. (re: sold car and soul to tuition) so i did what was cheapest for the moment. and next summer i'll take care of the bigger budget items after working a couple weeks.
UPDATE 6/09
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7290.jpg)
ah yes salie mae owns so many of our souls..
but i think this spring/summer i'm definately going with a new fe. the springs are great compared to stock, but theres not much more potential for stock forks. consider it a bandaid fix for the time being :P
Cool. Nice to see another ME on here.
and german :D
(double major)
Thats looking real clean dude, I like it. I've been going for the same look, but I just don't have the tools to get where I need to be. Could you send me some detailed instructions on how you hid the wires and all so well? Thanks!
OH yeah, what kind of bar end mirors are those? Did they fit right on those 89 clip on's with no trouble, or did Buddha work his magic on em?
i couldnt have done the wiring without a soldering iron, a drill and at least a hacksaw. dremels work great, but for frame cutting you definately want to pick up a 25 dollar grinder from home depot.
aluminum angle stock can be had for a couple bux at home depot. i actually have a lot of extra. but you have to decide whether or not you want to keep your stock airbox. It ~just~ fit with the project box and k&n filter. as in, there was about <1/4" of clearance. But if it was mounted further back, then the gas tank would not fit back on the bike. I literally just guessed it correct but it's very very close.
take everything apart, and start unclipping wires and try to clear the tangles. undo all the electric tape that covers the harness so you can shift wires in and out as needed. i may have cut wires only to solder them back together so it would be more organized. i only had to extend 3 wires that lead to the fuse block on the right hand side that also connects the positive battery terminal to the starter (i think?). I also flipped this fuse thing upside down and bent the positive terminal back so it fit better. I pulled the main harness back under the tank a couple inches. Just try to push as much of the wires to the front of the battery as possible. i just tried to see how much could be moved around and relocated some other things so it would be as out of site as possible.
int he 5th picture down you can see the bracket that bolts to the stock airbox tabs, its painted black partially, but continues out toward the air filter (as seen in other pictures). I mounted the aluminum angle pieces (the left side rests on the nut for the petcock mount) and drilled two holes each side so i could bolt the box into the aluminum. the box has slots (grinded) into the side for the wiring harness to sit in (dumping all the wires into the box). If you want larger pictures to try to zoom in and inspect just shoot me your email. If you have any ideas and some basic tools. just be creative and try different things. innovation and imagination :)
everything i did was done by grinder/cutter (hacksaw would suffice), drill and basic hand tools. it isnt difficult, just patience and know your wires/ knots. I probably disconnected and reconnected the harness/relays 7-10 times just test fitting re routing and cutting/resoldering.
the bar end mirrors are from ebay. they are actually clamped to the bars but i have yet to get real bar ends so i just stuffed what came with the mirrors into the ends. I'm on the hunt for some bar end weight things but i'm a bit on the lean side financially.
shoot me your email if you want larger quality pictures for inspection. I dont know when the next time i'll take my tank off but i'll try to take more pics the next time i do.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3369.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3368.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3375.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3378.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3398.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3408.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_3405.jpg)
Wow those pics look badass.. :thumb:
Very nice looking bike.
that looks REALLY good im going to have to think about a street fighter this winter
Very nice ... you know I'd have swapped you a black powdercoated top dash plate along with the stuff you bought ... you didn't ... dang it ... I am specialising in hurting you aren't I ...
First the shock spring, now the dash ...
BTW your bike ahs a lot of shiny black, chock in shiny black works just fine.
Cool.
Buddha.
It's looking great psyber! what year R1 taillight is that? also, is your license plate visable from the rear when you sit down?
Very nice! I think you did a great job. I also like the photos themselves. Very nice composition.
what is that yosh off of again?
yer horse is kickass, stay up there and enjoy the view ! the cars ain't shabby either, but you already know your stuff and don't need anyone to tell ya that :)
(not being a smartass up there, i really dig your work man)
Quote from: SecondsFromTheFall on October 27, 2008, 10:57:45 AM
It's looking great psyber! what year R1 taillight is that? also, is your license plate visable from the rear when you sit down?
The tail is actually from a 05 kaw zx636. I used an integrated tail/turnsignal (but am not sure how legal it is; it just looked cleaner this way). The license plate is visible if a car is following behind. However it isnt illuminated and i'm sure it is not legal. I've been playing it real safe and cops seem to be too lazy around here. They will shout at you from within their squad cars; but dont actually enforce much.
Quote from: hotrodstu77 on October 27, 2008, 01:09:51 PM
what is that yosh off of again?
yosh is from an r6; i think 04? the midpipe had to be shortened about 2.5 inches and the slipon portion rotated a bit. cost 30 bux to modify!
thanks for the compliments folks; however this isn't original lol. i based it off of russomf and quiktaco's builds. my hats are off to them ;). I was just too broke to paint the tank black, and i kinda think it's more noticable by cars with color. (ride to be seen? ride to be safe?)
Tank ... black ... dude ... that blue ... I must have it ... dont paint it ... maybe we can arrange some kinda trade deal ... my powdercoated and coated on the inside tank ... for that and some $ ... how is it inside BTW ? And I'll trade you a black dash plate for yours ... mine has been powdercoated shiny black ... :icon_mrgreen:
Cool.
Buddha.
A big thanks to Bob Broussard for being extremely helpful in pressing of stems and creating a burly spacer.
Notes:
There is a difference in gsxr forks ranging from 01-current. Different years have different brake mounts, different tube diameters, different rotor diameters etc etc. Take some time to coordinate yourself with the different BRAKE options and applicable wheel applications. if you are using standard caliper tabs; be careful which wheels you choose. 06+ wheels (05+ gsxr 1k) and after have a different rotor bolt pattern. 99-07 Hayabusa front wheels/rotors are the same, this gives you some cross compatability if you are shopping around and plan on using 320mm rotors. Radial calipers are by far easier to setup in terms of brake/rotor choice. You can use an 06 wheel with matching componentry or go for an older (cheaper) wheel with larger rotors and use of some spacers. Just familiarize yourself with your options and learn what can fit what.
What i ended up using were:
$150 - 2006 gsxr 600/750 forks
$ 51 - 2006 gsxr radial calipers with master cylinder and brake lines*
$ 35 - 2006 gsxr axle/spacer
$200 - 01-03 (k1-k3) gsxr wheel
$180 - 320mm Rotors (k1-k3 / hayabusa)
$ 50 - 2006 gsxr clipons
$ 25 - New GS500 steering bearings
Damage: $661 (ouch..what did i get myself into)
* this required a 5mm shim between the radial mounts and the calipers; Honda Part # 51497-MEL-D20 (x4)
good references (there are more but just search google)
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210354
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=59000
Pre-swap:
I send the GSXR and gs triple to bob. He was able to press the GS stem into the GSXR triple and fab up a spacer to allow the upper clamp to bolt right on top of the GS stem. For this i am deeply grateful for his time and excellent communication throughout the whole process.
now for pictures....
Before:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6968.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6969.jpg)
Remove handlebars/clipons and headlights:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6970.jpg)
removed wheel and brakes:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6971.jpg)
after the wheel was removed, you just loosen the bearing nut and drop the forks out (being mindful to reroute all the wires and cables etc). Forks will come out easily. I replaced the steering bearings so i had to tap out the old outer race.
pressing in the new outer race (bottom)...I used threaded rod and some large "fender" washers, two nuts (jammed) and a threaded coupler. These can be had for 10 bux at the hardware store. Be sure to use the THICK washers (may require larger diameter rod) because the thin ones will bend and deflect under pressure; even if stacked.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6972.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6974.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6973.jpg)
Liberally apply grease to the bearings and install the triple tree
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6975.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6976.jpg)
a close up of Bob's spacer; it fills up the larger diameter of the hole in the upper clamps while providing a tapered hole on the bottom to perfectly mate to the top of the GS stem
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6977.jpg)
slide the fork tubes in place and adjust height till even; don't forget the clipons...i had to drop them down again to slip them in
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6978.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6979.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6980.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6981.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6982.jpg)
THe wheels...
GS wheel on left, GSXR on right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6983.jpg)
Test fitting the wheel and brake calipers
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6986.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6987.jpg)
My brake rotors came in later that evening but i was at the Brown University - Campus Dance for a couple drinks and rubbing elbows with the big wigs.
I'll post more pictures when i finish the rotor and caliper install. as well as the clutch/throttle/brake cable routing and headlight bracket/mounting.
i still need to find a dremel to destroy the rivets holding the ignition cylinder on the old upper clamp. And i need to purchase a speedometer and figure out how to plug up the tach mechanism hole.
Buddha, i still have to ship the wheel out, i'm sorry, i've been caught up in this swap and having to organize my stuff to move out soon (as well as raise funds through selling some items)
you might ask WHY i decided to do this and i'll be honest...
I'm still a bit new to motorcycles... i still have a lot to learn. I loved mountain biking for over a decade. Tore them apart, rebuilt, upgrade etc. I bought my first car; autocrossed, changed the suspension and brakes, auto crossed some more. Sold it purchased a subaru; swapped the motor, changed suspension and brakes....autocross and rallycrossed. Decided i needed to go to university and sold my car, my mountian bikes, my trials bikes for tuition. all i had left was a single speed road bike but had to ride the bus an hour to and from school 5 days a week. Having wasted 380 hours per school year sitting on a bus, after three years i picked up my first motorcycle for $900 (last summer); felt at home on it. Again...i started modding. I think this is one of the last things i can do to the bike but it pretty much completes it for me. I had another thread started showing how i got my bike to what you see. The forks are probably the last thing i'd do to the bike. I was researching forks since i bought the bike. I've been torn between kat swaps, the old gsxr forks and the new gsxr forks. There are a lot of beautiful modded GS's from race bikes to just plain awesome street bikes. I wanted functionality, as well as aesthetics and decided to slowly research and slowly harvest parts. Everything you see above was done within a day since everything was collected and available. There's still a lot to be done...and as stated earlier, i still have a lot to learn
Dude, your bike is SICK, and you live in P-Town? I'm about an hour away from there! I live up in Worcester! That's freakin sick... sick sick sick!
Glad to see it working out well! :bstar: :bstar: :bstar: :bstar: :bstar:
BobB is da man! :bowdown:
Looks good :thumb:
Did you need modify the steering stops?
As for the tach hole...
Option #1 - Buy the plug & parts from an 04. It still had the hole in the head. It was eliminated in 05.
Option #2 - Remove the drive gear from the housing, once removed from the head. Plug the hole with a bolt and nylock nut w/ a washer. First pack the hole with high temp silicone and run the bolt through it. Seal the area with more silicone where the tach cable screws in to it. Just make sure the bolt does not hit the cam.
I have run heads with both options. Both can be done without pulling the head.
Ya know ... on me SV1K, this FE would look sooooooooooooooper ... and best of all, the ignition lock, the guages, the headlight etc etc etc all works like stock ...
Just sayin ...
Cool.
Buddha.
for the steering stops; on the bottom of the triple, there are two threaded holes... it's reinforced and thicker in that area so i drilled up and through them to the surface and it's on a closer radius than the normal GSXR stops. I want to find a dremel to cut the original tabs off but my idea was to pass a bolt though the hole and using either rubber or just a bunch of washers creating a larger area for the new bolt(stop) to interfere with the original stop on the head tube. I just have to decide what diameter bolt to use; not really sure about the amount of sheer to expect in a worse case scenario. but hopefully choose something that is a bit more ductile than brittle.
pictures will be posted.... the ideas are just in my head but should work
buddha, did you get my PM about the bearings for the kat rear wheel? I'm sorry i've been bad about the bandit wheel. it WILL be sent out i just had to pay first+last month rent on my new place... and still need to sell some things.
the ignition lock should still work, except my wheel will be facing forward instead of cocked left. I can try getting an 06 gsxr 1k top clamp to have it in the GS configuration but money is tight. i think the offset will allow a center mounted gauge such as the Acewell Speedo/Tach....instead of cluttering with two gauges.
(http://www.electrosport.com/store/images/400/ace2802-ab.jpg)
http://www.electrosport.com/products/product-detail.php?products_id=2253
I like that gauge. And it's priced right. Should be able to sell your old set for what it costs to get that new one...
Good job - Bob!
Oh ... I didn't reply to that psyber ... I will do that ... I would get back to you soon ...
Cool.
Buddha.
good writeup
SICK!
i'm getting some new drill bits and am trying to get the mounting for the headlight down today.
pictures later
it has been raining lately so not much new to report.
by recommendation by dgyver i removed the tach drive and found a suitable plug. i used a plug for an O2 sensor bung from an after market subaru downpipe. it was perfect
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7295.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7296.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7297.jpg)
reinstalled:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7298.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7300.jpg)
NICE! I was wondering how to fix that tach fitting after I installed my vaypor gauges!
Gotta love it when things like that O2 sensor plug work out so nicely! Great mod and thanks for the writeup.
STEERING STOP writeup:
START OFF by cutting/grinding the GSXR tabs down on the triple.
ok; now for the 'new' steering stop... the GSXR lower triple has a reinforced area, visible from below. using a 25/64" drill bit (or a 3/8" then enlarging later). I've decided on using a 10mm bolt (actually it's the upper bar clamp bolts) so the 25/64" bit is as close to the measured 10mm bolt dimensions as you can get. The idea is to drill a hole through the reinforced area on the triple, stacking a bunch of 3/8" washers and pass the bolt through creating a new stop. The hole is located on a shorter radius than the GSXR stop and the washers give some distance radially from the bolt for the stop to interfere.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7272.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7273.jpg)
as seen here...it is already threaded
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7274.jpg)
here it is drilled out and on the biks
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7275.jpg)
again...it's easier if the gsxr tabs are already cut off
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7276.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7277.jpg)
more on this later; it's raining
UPDATE:
Grind the old stops off (should take care of this at the beginning)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7312.jpg)
Using the old triple clamp bolts (since they are m10 grade 10.9 ...or wait...12.9? i'll have to double check) and 3/8" washers. this will act as the new steering stop.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7313.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7314.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7316.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7320.jpg)
full lock right
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7318.jpg)
full lock left
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7319.jpg)
IGNITION:
you need to separate the the old ignition cylinder from the top triple of the GS. it's a pain in the ass if you don't have a dremel. You can drill it out (like i did) but be prepared to score up the bottom of the unit...i for one don't really care.
once the cylinder is removed, USE THE SAME 25/64" (or 3/8") drill bit to widen the holes. Using some hex socket cap screws (allen head) bolt it right up to the GSXR upper clamp. everything fits fine, and the steering lock will STILL work with NO modification so long as it's positioned to the left (like mine) or in the center (like some gsxr1000's...or stock GS configuration)
the ignition in the center will allow the steering to lock with the wheel cocked right. The ignition on the right will lock the wheel dead straight.
sorry, not many pictures of the process
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7281.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7284.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7282.jpg)
Glamor shots installing the wheel. Brakes are bled.
after installing the axle:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7285.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7286.jpg)
gotta tighten it; so i used a nut and bolt to hold down the hollow end:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7288.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7289.jpg)
tighten down axle nut to 72.5 ft-lb; Pinch bolts 18 ft-lb:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7287.jpg)
i thought the gold forks would be mismatched to the bike's colors, but the rear shock and the chain have gold color too. It would have been nice to get a set of rotors with gold centers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7290.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7292.jpg)
Is the front wheel an 18? It looked bigger in the comparison click.
Quote from: average on May 29, 2009, 01:02:58 PM
Is the front wheel an 18? It looked bigger in the comparison click.
it's a 17, but wider. I'm using a 120/70 r17 front tire
\
That front fork setup is awesome! Really makes the bike look aggressive.
Nice work. :cheers:
great job! bike looks insane!!
wow looks great!
Ignition lock - to get the GS one out, I cut the thread bosses out of lower triple. Who cares, there is a million of those I have ... when I used to drill it out it would take longer and I had a perfect lower triple, now it takes 20 seconds and I have a nice ignition lock and a destroyed lower triple.
Cool.
Buddha.
but but but....i'm trying to preserve as many parts so i can sell them (futile attempt because no one buys this stuff) to make up some funds to ship the wheel to you!!!!
Wow wave rotors?
How fast does the bike stop?
took it for a test run and it stops well; however i have not bed the pads in nor have i taken it on the highway. I'm going to bleed the master once more now that it has sat for a couple days. the brake lever feels a LOT stiffer.
i'm still waiting for some t-bolt clamps to fab something up for the headlight
<duplicate post>
Okay, I get the steering stop idea but is that really enough turning radius for the bike? Have you rode it yet? :icon_confused:
MOUNTING THE HEADLIGHT:
I am still broke until you gracious folks buy some stuff from my for sale thread (in my sig)...but i came up with an easy way to mount the headlights using some of the old hardware (i'm reusing as much as i can here from all my leftover parts since i'm on a budget)
I bought some 2" T-bolt clamps for about 2 bux and change each.... and modified the stock headlight brackets
This also made it easy to keep the turn signal mounts
stock brackets:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7307.jpg)
Drill holes in the impressions from <tac-welds?>:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7308.jpg)
Example:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7309.jpg)
Cut the old fork tube tabs off:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7310.jpg)
Done
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7311.jpg)
I chose to use some adhesive foam and a rubber..thingy as bushing so it wouldnt scratch the fork. it looks a bit ugly but hey...8 dollar mounts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7321.jpg)
Test fit:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7322.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7323.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7324.jpg)
Headlight is mounted up.. all is well but i don't have a pic yet...i went to the beach instead
more later...
Quote from: average on June 07, 2009, 05:04:59 PM
Okay, I get the steering stop idea but is that really enough turning radius for the bike? Have you rode it yet? :icon_confused:
it's a bit worse when backing up and slow slow slow maneuvering. But turn any more, then the clipons/triple hits the tank. it's about half centimeter clearance as it sits now.
who knows, if it's that bad then it's easily removed or i can get custom spacer made....or find smaller diameter washers
edit: when i say half clearance, i mean between the tank and clipon/triple <~ at the mount not the bars themselves
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7361.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7364.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_7365.jpg)
i got a gauge with hazard light instead of oil pressure on accident. doesnt matter...just a red light.
will wire it all up tomorrow but gotta get a magnetic rotor bolt for speedo to work
sheesh, could you at least post a picture, or a description ? i mean, a thread this long with no pics....
just kidding man, that's a really, really nicely detailed thing you've done. thanks a ton for sharing it !
i read through, and it seems like you've only gotten one short ride in, then were planning on a brake bleed. please keep us updated on damping/rebound adjustments, riding impressions, and what you do for the rear shock to make things match nicely.
really nice work, enjoy that sweet looking and HANDLING ride :)
Nice, I'm glad you almost got everything together. Now you can sell me your speedo O0
Quote from: ohgood on June 13, 2009, 06:20:58 AM
sheesh, could you at least post a picture, or a description ? i mean, a thread this long with no pics....
just kidding man, that's a really, really nicely detailed thing you've done. thanks a ton for sharing it !
i read through, and it seems like you've only gotten one short ride in, then were planning on a brake bleed. please keep us updated on damping/rebound adjustments, riding impressions, and what you do for the rear shock to make things match nicely.
really nice work, enjoy that sweet looking and HANDLING ride :)
thanks;
i rode around more yesterday to test the brakes and they locked up on me. I had accidentally overfilled the resevoir and the MC remained under pressure. i had to let some fluid out of the MC and it works great. Brakes are very nice, but probably overkill
The suspension is pretty soft so far. I just measured rider sag and will start tweaking in the next couple days. Currently, everything is set on minimal settings. Lowest compression, lowest rebound and no preload just for a base. But i will work on this more in the next couple days.
rear shock i'm using a katana 750 with remote resevoir. everything is set to minimum but it's still a stiffer shock and provides very little rider sag.
FOLLOWING UP ON THE STEERING STOPS:
the steering stops are not an issue, i can still u-turn in a narrow neighborhood street and the amount of steering input for around the block (low speeds) riding never posed an issue as far as hitting the stops. The only time you will feel it is backing out the bike and turning it around.
The clipons are low...i want to change them to maybe some TL1000S (raised) stockers. But for now they will do.
Quote from: average on June 13, 2009, 07:20:20 AM
Nice, I'm glad you almost got everything together. Now you can sell me your speedo O0
i just finished wiring the gauge; the only problem is i dont have an oil pressure light. I thought i could just wire it into the hazard light that comes on the gauge that i got (the one that i posted on the first page was out of stock) but the hazards are positive switching while the oil pressure light is negative switch.
oops.
IF YOU GET THE ACEWELL GAUGE, USE THE
2802everything else works great.
i will post a wiring diagram at some point though because one is NOT included with the gauge. kinda crappy but it is what it is. A lot of harness work and soldering but i made it in such a way that everything was separable or utilized the old gauge harness as much as possible.
just figuring out the tach wire and getting waiting on a rotor bolt for speedo to function
Happy Psyber ?
Cool.
Buddha.
spanks :thumb:
Quote
just figuring out the tach wire and getting waiting on a rotor bolt for speedo to function
So the model you got does not come with the speedo sensor model provided by acewell? Will the 2802 model be a plug and play with the speed sensor?
you have to get the speedo cable.
the difference between the 2803 and 2802 is the oil pressure light is exchanged for hazard light indicator. They are opposite switched so what i thought would work didnt. (i was trying to just use the hazard light as my oil pressure warning)
i just have to run a relay and it will work fine.... but i've been lazy. Once i get my $20 from buddha, i'll mount the new tire on the rim i got back and take more pics and have an opportunity to create a wiring chart/how to/guide
no matter what, you have to buy a speed sensor with the gauge....
update 7/09
Katana wheel swap: (no writeup just before and afters)
tire size comparison. stock 130 vs 160
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8609.jpg)
transfering the cush/sprocket carrier
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8610.jpg)
before:(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8608.jpg)
after: (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8612.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8614.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8617.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_8619.jpg)
On my Acewell the tach wire was a yellow wire that wraps around one of the spark plug wires. Then you program the number of cylinders you have into it. The speedo, I used the magnet/sensor thing that came with it. I glued the magnest to the rim and then mounted the sensor to the front fender.
Yeah, the wiring instructions suck with those things. I do enjoy having right and left turn signals though.
wrapping the wire around the spark plug wire gave a poor signal. it was either very sporatic or it lagged with the change in RPM's i decided to solder i to the white wire on the left cylinder wire but after 5k it would start flashing. i'm going to try the resistor they recomend to see if this cures it.
i got the motorcycle speedo mount which was fairly useless as far as the magnet is concerned. the magnet provided is a m6x1.25 and i need a m10 for the rotor bolt. Or... buy a strong magnet and glue to the rotor.
I have no fender...will mount using aluminum bar stock at the fender mount location
Yeah, my tach is a bit jumpy but it's close enough for me. I don't plan on taking it to redline anytime soon. I set the shift light on mine to 9K I think.
They sent me the same useless bolt they did you. I emailed them saying just a plain magnet would work better for me and they sent me just at magnet free of charge. Then I glued the magnet to the front wheel and was in buisness. The new magnet was sent to me in like 3 days. I was suprised by how fast the turn around was.
that fat tire looks awful...
.
.
.
.
.
just kidding man, I am just jealous ;) it looks amazing!!
how does it handle? same or little more effort is necessary?
i actually havent taken it for a good long ride to scrub the tires down. But around the block, it needs a bit more input. i also bumped the front tire up to 120 (stock gsxr) so that affected turn in as well.
Your bike is coming out GREAT!
Hey guys,
I've had my 08 GS for a year today and this weekend it gets a custom paint job. Keeping the fairings all around because I really like the look but i want to change the front and rear tires to a 120 and 160 very similar to what you have done Psyber. So my question is how would I go about swapping the tires (I know there were a few pictrues of the different tires but not much explanation as to what had to be moified to fit those tires)?
Thanks,
Eralor
PS I also need some more aggressive bars. I was told by KevinBlank to get in touch with Buddha for a set of more aggressive downturn bars. Hopefully you guys might have a picture of these on a later model GS with fairings still attached.
Oh no ... buddha ... no one seen him in years.
Yea ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Katana rim swap for a 150/160 tire is as easy as removing your stock wheel and reinstalling...
Difference is you put the GS sprocket carrier on the katana wheel (much like the pictures above) and reassemble with the spacers and such in the same order. You may need to bend your Brake arm/torque bar to clear the tire, but i ended up using a bandit arm without modification to anything else. Also added two washers behind the sprocket bolts to give some clearence on the left side. There is a write up on it already. Search the wiki.
The fronts.... not too sure, i was using a 2002 gsxr wheel
Thanks Psyber,
I was thinking it was a bit more complicated from the way everything was looking with clearance on the stock 130. Now I just need to find the katana rear wheel and life will be a bit fatter in the back.
And Buddha i know your the moderator I was just asking if anyone had a picture of a pair of your bars on a GS with the stock fairings still on. Guess I'll start trolling as many of your posts as i can looking for pictures of those bars.
Eralor
Look for the phrase "4 weld bars".
That was what will fit an 01+.
My avatar has 2 weld ones ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks Buddha,
Guess that means you can ignore the message i just sent you.
Eralor
got some case guards the other day... you do not need to worry about the engine dropping out when installing....i'll explain.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9379.jpg)
First loosen all the nuts for the engine mounts, the one behind the carbs, bottom side of the engine, and front of the engine
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9382.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9383.jpg)
The kit includes 3 replacement rods with threaded ends. The reallly short one replaces the mount bolt on the rear, slowly tap the old one out with the replacement. Doing so will allow the engine to sit on the other two bolts and not pivot/drop out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9380.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9386.jpg)
Next the longest bolt replacement goes on the bottom motor mount. Like the previous, tap the old bolt out using the new replacement. Repeat with the front mount
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9385.jpg)
All three bolts have been replaced with the longer ones provided in the kit
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9384.jpg)
Kit comes with some awesome stainless hardware
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9387.jpg)
Put the spacers on the bottom engine mount bolt
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9389.jpg)
Place the engine case guard on the replacement bolts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9390.jpg)
Play around with threading the nuts so that both sides have good engagement
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9396.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9395.jpg)
Finished!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9394-1.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9391-1.jpg)
I love these! Mine came with the SW-Motech cases. I was going to remove them but realized that IF I ever drop it they serve a purpose. Plus I think they look good as well.
Psyber - I have a k9 GSXR FE coming as well as a k4 wheel and rotors. I am going to have one hell of a winter with what I am going to do.
k9 forks are hawt!
how much did that set you back if i might ask?
Morning road temps are dropping pretty bad making the area dew up. I nearly snuffed the bike on an exit ramp whilst riding conservatively. I figured, extra insurance would never hurt.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380157295721&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
Was ready to buy a k6 1000 but it was snagged before i could get it. So I went this route. Ordered a '08 fender and a set of '04/'05 wheels and rotors. SO far I have spent about $800 into it I think.
I am at a loss for the axle though. I don't know if I need a '08/'09 axle or a '04/'05 axle? Got any ideas on that one?
Oh, and while I am here, it looks like you didn't use any of the GSXR controls on the clip-ons?! Is that not possible? All of the little details of these swaps are coming forward while I do research and there is not much to be found.
Alright Psyber one last question before I start my rear wheel swap. I got a 99 4.5 kat rear tire and I still need the bandit rear brake arm. So the question is what year of bandit would work and would i be better off with the arm from a 600 or a 1200 bandit?
Thanks,
Eralor
honestly i'm not quite sure which one i ended up using, but i think it was the 600.
i think the swingarm is much longer on the 1200 and required a longer than GS brake torque lever.
from having installed the WORKS Performance rear shock....
before
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9451.jpg)
new
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9452.jpg)
out with the old and in with new
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9453.jpg)
after
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9454.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_9455.jpg)
So do all the lines through the build list on page one mean something? lol
Nice shock swap BTW.
lines means parts i had and replaced
NICE BIKE, PSYBER. I bet it rides like a dream . . . ;)
Quote from: gaspy on October 12, 2009, 03:22:19 PM
NICE BIKE, PSYBER. I bet it rides like a dream . . . ;)
i hear it is pretty stable, but it's not as nimble as the GS ~was~ :p
next plans: really looking into putting new pistons in the motor since i'm going to tear it apart anyway this winter. also looking for an sv650 headlight... then i think i'm done... really
Bike looks great mate! I hope to finally finish mine this winter!
Quote from: cosmiccharlie on October 12, 2009, 06:47:06 PM
Bike looks great mate! I hope to finally finish mine this winter!
Lookin' forward to that Charlie
Awesome work! Very inspiring. Keep up the good work. :cheers:
Quote from: psyber_0ptix on October 12, 2009, 04:50:13 PM
Quote from: gaspy on October 12, 2009, 03:22:19 PM
NICE BIKE, PSYBER. I bet it rides like a dream . . . ;)
i hear it is pretty stable, but it's not as nimble as the GS ~was~ :p
How much different is the handling compared to the stock suspension / wheels / tires?
Quote from: cboling on October 13, 2009, 12:26:45 PM
Quote from: psyber_0ptix on October 12, 2009, 04:50:13 PM
Quote from: gaspy on October 12, 2009, 03:22:19 PM
NICE BIKE, PSYBER. I bet it rides like a dream . . . ;)
i hear it is pretty stable, but it's not as nimble as the GS ~was~ :p
How much different is the handling compared to the stock suspension / wheels / tires?
it's VERY different. Turn in isn't as quick as stock, maneuvers require a bit more input, low speed tight corners arent as easy, but on the upside, its smooth, adjustable, stable, non twitchy, holds lines very well.
ok.. newb question... the cylinder attached to the new rear shock.. what is it?
and friggin beautiful work, btw. no only am i jealous, but i'm thinking of taking a grinder to mine now lol.. any way to shorten/reshepe the seat or maybe use a rear end from something else?
remote reservoir increases the oil capacity of the shock which aids in cooling shock fluid and provides consistent rebound valving under severe conditions.
you can take the vinyl off the seat and reshape the foam/plastic to your hearts content. Affixing a completely different rear end/rear seat is much more involved. Honestly i didn't want to dump the extra money for aesthetics when the rear part of the frame functions just fine.
sorry posted in the wrong thread so moved it,
Quote from: psyber_0ptix on May 23, 2009, 01:17:09 PM
A big thanks to Bob Broussard for being extremely helpful in pressing of stems and creating a burly spacer.
Notes:
There is a difference in gsxr forks ranging from 01-current. Different years have different brake mounts, different tube diameters, different rotor diameters etc etc. Take some time to coordinate yourself with the different BRAKE options and applicable wheel applications. if you are using standard caliper tabs; be careful which wheels you choose. 06+ wheels (05+ gsxr 1k) and after have a different rotor bolt pattern. 99-07 Hayabusa front wheels/rotors are the same, this gives you some cross compatability if you are shopping around and plan on using 320mm rotors. Radial calipers are by far easier to setup in terms of brake/rotor choice. You can use an 06 wheel with matching componentry or go for an older (cheaper) wheel with larger rotors and use of some spacers. Just familiarize yourself with your options and learn what can fit what.
What i ended up using were:
$150 - 2006 gsxr 600/750 forks
$ 51 - 2006 gsxr radial calipers with master cylinder and brake lines*
$ 35 - 2006 gsxr axle/spacer
$200 - 01-03 (k1-k3) gsxr wheel
$180 - 320mm Rotors (k1-k3 / hayabusa)
$ 50 - 2006 gsxr clipons
$ 25 - New GS500 steering bearings
Damage: $661 (ouch..what did i get myself into)
* this required a 5mm shim between the radial mounts and the calipers; Honda Part # 51497-MEL-D20 (x4)
good references (there are more but just search google)
http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210354
http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=59000
Pre-swap:
I send the GSXR and gs triple to bob. He was able to press the GS stem into the GSXR triple and fab up a spacer to allow the upper clamp to bolt right on top of the GS stem. For this i am deeply grateful for his time and excellent communication throughout the whole process.
now for pictures....
Before:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6968.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6969.jpg)
Remove handlebars/clipons and headlights:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6970.jpg)
removed wheel and brakes:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6971.jpg)
after the wheel was removed, you just loosen the bearing nut and drop the forks out (being mindful to reroute all the wires and cables etc). Forks will come out easily. I replaced the steering bearings so i had to tap out the old outer race.
pressing in the new outer race (bottom)...I used threaded rod and some large "fender" washers, two nuts (jammed) and a threaded coupler. These can be had for 10 bux at the hardware store. Be sure to use the THICK washers (may require larger diameter rod) because the thin ones will bend and deflect under pressure; even if stacked.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6972.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6974.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6973.jpg)
Liberally apply grease to the bearings and install the triple tree
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6975.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6976.jpg)
a close up of Bob's spacer; it fills up the larger diameter of the hole in the upper clamps while providing a tapered hole on the bottom to perfectly mate to the top of the GS stem
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6977.jpg)
slide the fork tubes in place and adjust height till even; don't forget the clipons...i had to drop them down again to slip them in
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6978.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6979.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6980.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6981.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6982.jpg)
THe wheels...
GS wheel on left, GSXR on right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6983.jpg)
Test fitting the wheel and brake calipers
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6986.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_6987.jpg)
My brake rotors came in later that evening but i was at the Brown University - Campus Dance for a couple drinks and rubbing elbows with the big wigs.
I'll post more pictures when i finish the rotor and caliper install. as well as the clutch/throttle/brake cable routing and headlight bracket/mounting.
i still need to find a dremel to destroy the rivets holding the ignition cylinder on the old upper clamp. And i need to purchase a speedometer and figure out how to plug up the tach mechanism hole.
Buddha, i still have to ship the wheel out, i'm sorry, i've been caught up in this swap and having to organize my stuff to move out soon (as well as raise funds through selling some items)
you might ask WHY i decided to do this and i'll be honest...
I'm still a bit new to motorcycles... i still have a lot to learn. I loved mountain biking for over a decade. Tore them apart, rebuilt, upgrade etc. I bought my first car; autocrossed, changed the suspension and brakes, auto crossed some more. Sold it purchased a subaru; swapped the motor, changed suspension and brakes....autocross and rallycrossed. Decided i needed to go to university and sold my car, my mountian bikes, my trials bikes for tuition. all i had left was a single speed road bike but had to ride the bus an hour to and from school 5 days a week. Having wasted 380 hours per school year sitting on a bus, after three years i picked up my first motorcycle for $900 (last summer); felt at home on it. Again...i started modding. I think this is one of the last things i can do to the bike but it pretty much completes it for me. I had another thread started showing how i got my bike to what you see. The forks are probably the last thing i'd do to the bike. I was researching forks since i bought the bike. I've been torn between kat swaps, the old gsxr forks and the new gsxr forks. There are a lot of beautiful modded GS's from race bikes to just plain awesome street bikes. I wanted functionality, as well as aesthetics and decided to slowly research and slowly harvest parts. Everything you see above was done within a day since everything was collected and available. There's still a lot to be done...and as stated earlier, i still have a lot to learn
First off, I am impressed with what you have done with your bike. I recently purchased a 1990 GS and I have to say that I am underwhelmed by the factory front end. I was considering installing Sonic Springs but I know that I won't be happy. I began looking for GSXR swaps and came across your thread and I said to myself, that's the way to go but I am confused about your front end swap. I see that you also used calipers, rotors and a wheel from other year and model Suzukis; is that necessary? If I had access to a whole 06 GSXR front end, wheel and brake setup, wouldn't that be easier/convenient?
If you have the whole kit and caboodle then it would definitely be easier. I just pieced it together and went with what I could make work with what i had. Because i had radially mounted calipers, it allowed for larger rotors with use of spacers. But 320mm rotors will only bolt up to rims of particular year. I couldnt afford k6+ wheels because they are really expensive so i made due with what i could.
But yes....if you buy an ENTIRE front end from tire to clipons it would be MUCH easier...and i highly recommend this. Check out O.C.D's winter build, it's pretty sick too
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=50448.140;topicseen
If I could have bought an entire front end ready to go, I would not have used it, lol. I am glad I pieced it together like Psyber. It made the process more fun. But if you are not wanting to hunt for the parts and you need it right away, a complete FE is an easy bolt on.
The more I look at these the more I feel like a front end swap would be a fun project and would really make me enjoy the gs more. I plan to clean up my tail swap this spring and repaint, and I'm planning on looking for an R6 shock soon. Now that I've got the newer style tank I think the bike would be an awesome project if I painted the frame black, swapped in a gsxr front end, and put on the katana rear wheel for a 160 tire. Either way I think I'd be looking at close to a grand for all the new parts, unless I did well shopping around. I feel like for the price if I wanted to have a really spruced up GS500, or a really ratty gsxr, I'd still just go for the gsxr though. It's technically Heather's bike, so I've gotta say I'm more comfortable with her riding on 40hp instead of 100, but I'd obviously be riding the thing all the time too. Maybe I'll just keep an eye on ebay and some bike junkyards long term and see what I came up with.
Psyber - what the heck kind of DID chain did you buy? I cannot find a 0-ring in gold from DID.
Didn't update this in a long time, but last season I had picked up a nail in my rear tires. It sucked because it had less than 1500 miles on it total. In any event I replaced the rear with Conti SportAttack's and just wanted to comment that they are a much narrower 160 tire than the shinko's were. No clearance issues with the chain or the brake torque arm. (Shinko was barely rubbing the arm).
I took the bike out of hibernation, washed, cleaned air filter, tweak here and there....I'm going out to scrub the new tire in
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_0220.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v283/psyber_0ptix/IMG_0227.jpg)
Bike is looking great! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with the back end when you get bored someday and decide to update it. You should do something simple and clean like a newer speed triple tail or something to keep the same look.
Quote from: psyber_0ptix on May 09, 2010, 08:42:01 AM
Didn't update this in a long time, but last season I had picked up a nail in my rear tires. It sucked because it had less than 1500 miles on it total. In any event I replaced the rear with Conti SportAttack's and just wanted to comment that they are a much narrower 160 tire than the shinko's were. No clearance issues with the chain or the brake torque arm. (Shinko was barely rubbing the arm).
I took the bike out of hibernation, washed, cleaned air filter, tweak here and there....I'm going out to scrub the new tire in
Opinions on the new tires? We have to narrow those chicken strips!
Quote from: tt_four on May 09, 2010, 01:24:53 PM
Bike is looking great! I'm looking forward to seeing what you do with the back end when you get bored someday and decide to update it. You should do something simple and clean like a newer speed triple tail or something to keep the same look.
The rear i haven't really thought about. Most of my mods stem from doing things as simply and bolton as possible (believe it or not). I'm not skilled enough to cut/weld even to my own standards. I'll be in germany for a year in september, and there isn't considerable interest for anyone to purchase the bike outright (it would break my heart too much to part it out)...it's going to be under the care of one of my friends who owns a shop (Wicked Innovation). He is an awesome fabricator and hasn't had a motorcycle to play with for a while. It'll be in good hands for sure.
On to other news....i recently lowsided at lowspeed on an onramp due to sand and 3 bumps. It was the strangest sensation, in a corner at about 30mph and then three raised cracks/bumps across the road made the bike oscillate just enough to start hopping the bike further and further to the outside of the corner. I any event, a broken mirror and slightly damaged headlight trim later, the bike is fine with nothing but a scratch on the case guard. No other damage that I could see.
I have been trying to build my bmw up ever so slowly so i haven't been able to purchase new gear to ride in this beautiful weather :(
Ewwww, low-side - no bueno!
well for what it's worth, if you end up wanting to do something later my R6 tail is still on the stock subframe. I did a little bit of cutting at the very back to shorten it, but that was after the two bars were welded together so nothing needed rewelded. The whole thing could be done with a hacksaw, and a little bit of creativity to make some new light brackets and attach a seat. I used pop rivets on the tabs on my subframe to put the seat on, and bolted the taillight right into 2 holes I drilled in the subframe. It would be cleaned up a bit, but it's better than nothing.
I gotta agree with the others, I like this bike :thumb: (even though it is about the complete opposite as mine).
(http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af9/TheRealSpinner/Suzuki%20Bobber/DSC03725.jpg)
Even though I only have just over 3.5" clearance, I haven't hi-centered yet, except for pushing it up the ramp to put it in the back of my truck. The only thing that hangs below the frame is the spring catch for the kick-stand. I have scraped the pegs going around turns though. I'm in the process of gradually grinding away at th pegs until they scrape just before the frame scrapes.
-SPiNNeR-
how much did you pay for that front brake master cylinder and reservoir? Im looking to upgrade to something of that kind, not the square box that gs comes with.
I got it with the whole front brake assembly. Not sure on the price or if it's compatible with the GS brake. You can always just search ebay for the Brembo single disk brake lever/reservoir.
I just wanted to tag this because i spent forever trying to find this thread again. I am inspired by your work and will be trying some modding on my own GS hopefully once I make some $$$. Thanks for the inspiration!
:thumb:
not a problem, there are many other awesome builds on this site as well. I wish i had the funds to do a tail conversion, but im happy with the way it rides now with the suspension setup. I dont spend much time staring at the bike...riding it is more fun.
Im interested in any progress you make so be sure to take pictures and photo-document everything.
thanks for digging this up.... Gonna book mark this post.