I've acquired two fluorescent housings, which each hold two fluorescent bulbs. I would like to install them in my garage b/c the lighting is dismal (one light bulb 15 feet in the air). I've attached some pictures showing the general layout of my garage.
Things I need input on
Installation (what do I need to buy and how do I hook it up, how far from the ceiling should they hang?)
Optimal placing (I would like both my workbench and car under the hood well lit)
Following all fire codes
Avoiding burning down the house due to electrical sparks/short/failure
Weather proof installation (or one that won't fail over time)
My thoughts:
I was gonna put some hooks in the studs in the ceiling, hang some chain off them, then run that to mounts in the light fixtures.
For my power source I was considering disconnecting existing light bulb or splicing into that line (so it would still be on the original wall switch)
PICS
Standing in doorway
(http://tussey.dreamhosters.com/pictures/qdig-files/converted-images/forums/gstwins/lights/med_IMG_0935.JPG)
Standing in doorway 2 w/hood open
(http://tussey.dreamhosters.com/pictures/qdig-files/converted-images/forums/gstwins/lights/med_IMG_0937.JPG)
Workbench (door on right, outside picture)
(http://tussey.dreamhosters.com/pictures/qdig-files/converted-images/forums/gstwins/lights/med_IMG_0938.JPG)
Light Housings x2
(http://tussey.dreamhosters.com/pictures/qdig-files/converted-images/forums/gstwins/lights/med_IMG_0939.JPG)
You current light looks like its in the center and you have a crawl space above the ceiling?
All you should need is one roll of 12-2 wire, a metal box for 3 connections, box cover, Some red and yellow wire connectors, electrical tape and beer.
I would put a electrical box for 3 connections (not sure of size, Lowe's can tell you wats code.) Where your light currently is, (above it in the ceiling if you can) and buy a cover for where the light was :thumb: Run one 12-2 line to each florescent. The wiring is fairly easy just look on line for DIA wiring info. You may have a 2 or 3 way switch conrolling that light, that may make it a bit more confusing but still no big deal.
I would just mount the lights right to the ceiling, but they may get a bit hot and not last as long. So, hanging is a good idea but then you should use shielded wire for the drop from ceiling to light and install another box at each light.
There are numerous ways to do it depending if you want to do it 100% right to code, Kinda right so its safe but practical, or just hang some wires and connect w/ duct tape =)
Im sure there is an electrician here somewhere... I re-wired my whole house myself and had no problems :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: scottpA_GS on October 20, 2008, 07:17:33 AM
You current light looks like its in the center and you have a crawl space above the ceiling?
All you should need is one roll of 12-2 wire, a metal box for 3 connections, box cover, Some red and yellow wire connectors, electrical tape and beer.
I would put a electrical box for 3 connections (not sure of size, Lowe's can tell you wats code.) Where your light currently is, (above it in the ceiling if you can) and buy a cover for where the light was :thumb: Run one 12-2 line to each florescent. The wiring is fairly easy just look on line for DIA wiring info. You may have a 2 or 3 way switch conrolling that light, that may make it a bit more confusing but still no big deal.
I would just mount the lights right to the ceiling, but they may get a bit hot and not last as long. So, hanging is a good idea but then you should use shielded wire for the drop from ceiling to light and install another box at each light.
There are numerous ways to do it depending if you want to do it 100% right to code, Kinda right so its safe but practical, or just hang some wires and connect w/ duct tape =)
Im sure there is an electrician here somewhere... I re-wired my whole house myself and had no problems :icon_mrgreen:
+1, Its not hard esp if you just want one switch to make them all come on and don't forget the beer, its crucial lol
+2. I was a electrical apprentice and I would either disconect the exsisting light and tie into the current wires running 12/2 to were you want the other lights. I would drill holes throgh the bottom rafter plate rather than running the wire on top of it. If the exsisting work box that is used for the light has knock out then you are good to go. If not then I would replace the work box that allows you multiple entries, I believe code up here in CT, states you can't run more than 2 wires through one opening, (call your local building inspector.) When tieing into the current weire all it will be is color for color . I too would screw the ficture to the cealing unless you have very tall cealings or things that obstruct the light. I would also make sure to use wire nutts, and plastic garmet for the hole in the work box if you purchase a metal one. For light bulbs, Chepo Depo has some that are smaller in diameter than the old style and they are brighter, they have a green end. Remember If you do a repair in your home that doesn't meet the the building codes, and it causes an accident your insurance may not cover you. Best of luck. - JIm :)
what do you guys mean when you keep referring to these boxes.
Also my garage is about 15 feet high. Wouldn't mounting the lights that high spread the light out too much?
Quote from: scottpA_GS on October 20, 2008, 07:17:33 AM
You current light looks like its in the center and you have a crawl space above the ceiling?
All you should need is one roll of 12-2 wire, a metal box for 3 connections, box cover, Some red and yellow wire connectors, electrical tape and beer.
I would put a electrical box for 3 connections (not sure of size, Lowe's can tell you wats code.) Where your light currently is, (above it in the ceiling if you can) and buy a cover for where the light was :thumb: Run one 12-2 line to each florescent. The wiring is fairly easy just look on line for DIA wiring info. You may have a 2 or 3 way switch conrolling that light, that may make it a bit more confusing but still no big deal.
I would just mount the lights right to the ceiling, but they may get a bit hot and not last as long. So, hanging is a good idea but then you should use shielded wire for the drop from ceiling to light and install another box at each light.
There are numerous ways to do it depending if you want to do it 100% right to code, Kinda right so its safe but practical, or just hang some wires and connect w/ duct tape =)
Im sure there is an electrician here somewhere... I re-wired my whole house myself and had no problems :icon_mrgreen:
what scott said :bowdown: :bowdown:
Quote from: tussey on October 20, 2008, 05:18:06 PM
what do you guys mean when you keep referring to these boxes.
Also my garage is about 15 feet high. Wouldn't mounting the lights that high spread the light out too much?
Two housings containing 2 tubes each spaced correctly should light your garage just peachy. If you had Jay Leno's garage though ....
There are basic catagories old work (used when you have sheet rock up) and new construction work boxes they are made out of either plastic, fiberglass, or metal. If you take the face plate off of your light switch you will notice there are a bunch of wires pushed pack into this cavity of which some are connected 2 black wires in a single pole switch. Another type of work box is a junction box, it is square and open on the top and you have multiple punch out to run wire into it from all directions. When you run the two line from your exsisting light I would spen the additional $5 and run them each to a box and the from the junction box right to the light fictures. If you have any questions about what to purchase, I would go to an electrical wholesaler store (yes they sell to the public) and not home depot, because they are knowlegable and will set you up with the right stuff, and they typically have good prices as well. It might be worth it to purcase an basic wiring book for $25 or get one from the library. It is better to be safe than electricuted! -- Jim :)
Your average ballast will only maybe use 1 amp ( actually less) at 120 volts . 12-2 is more than you need unless your light is on a 20 amp circuit. If you are on a 15 amp circuit 14-2 romex is the minimum you'll need- (but by all means go with what your electric codes call for if it's different..). You can use heavier wire than needed for each breaker- you just can't use less.
If you have access above the ceiling - this will be relatively easy. House wiring isn't hard- just most people are intimidated by it ( Not a bad thing -keeps a lot of people safe and alive).
They have "Old work boxes" for finished areas- if you can run your wire to the new boxes- The old work boxes basically have built in wall anchors on them... cut the hole in the drywall- put them in- turn the screws....the tabs swing out and draw up tight....you still have to run your wires and make all your connections.
Do you know what else is on the same circuit as the light?
You COULD....Get the plug in style lights ( no Hard-wiring) and put one of those plug/outlet adapters in your light bulb socket- No drywall cutting - you just have cords to hang along your ceiling. CHEESY...but it would work.
One MORE wiring option-....is Wire mold...it's a "decorative conduit" of sorts.... it's better looking than steel conduit run on the surface- it has all the bends and boxes to match... In a garage 15 feet up- It wouldn't be horrible... Your power still has to be brought down from your switched source ( your light bulb source for instance). Not the cheap way to go tho...
Mounting... Put them all the way up- you won't really lose any light up that high- plus you have white walls- so more reflected light- Plus less likely to bust them the higher they are. I'd favor them to the end of the garage that you'll be working in more often ( closer to the front end of your car) to get more light under your hood that you mentioned.
Are you in Maryland by any chance Tussey?
I'm an Electrician.Instead of going thru all of the trouble of Dropping from the Ceiling either Flush mount and Screw to the Joist in the Ceiling.If that isn't Possible Due to the Placement Instal with Toggle Bolts thru the Drywall.I'm not sure of your Local Codes but you can probably Save a Boat load of Money going with 14/2 Wire instead of 12/2. 14 Ga is around $43-$50 for a 250ft roll where 12 Ga is Around $65-$75 a Roll.14 Ga wire is legal to use for Lighting Circuits.
Make sure on any of the Knock outs you use in the Fixture to Use a Bushing or Clamp if Possible to keep the Sheet Metal of the Fixture to keep from Digging into the Insulation.