I put jets in my carbs and then went for a ride. I stopped at a stop sign and I smelled gas. Looked down and saw gas pouring from the empty hole where the screw used to be. Some dumbass forgot to tighten it back up after draining carbs for removal.
Did I do your carbs ?
Yea I leave stuff loose all the time ... or like finger tight.
Sorry ... I can find those and have it out to you by tommorow.
Cool.
Buddha.
you can find the size needed on the microfiche at ronayers.com and pick it up at Lowes or Home Depot
LOL Buddha, no you didn't do my carbs. You sent me the jets and float needles a week ago. BTW, the spring loaded post on the top of one of the needles is stuck.
The dumbass that didn't tighten the screw was ME.
I have a K&N drop-in, was running 40/127.5 and 4 washers under the needles. (remember me now). I was trying to cure a lean surge from 50-70 mph. The 4 washers almost cured the surge but killed of-idle performance.
I put in the 130 mains and have 2 washers under each needle now. It's running great, off-idle performance is back and there is no lean surge anymore.
I was glad I had the Honda petcock, when I saw the leak I was able to shut off the gas. I had to whittle a stick to twist into the hole where the screw fell out, and another to plug the drain nipple. That let me make it the 15 miles to get home.
Quote from: langhorne047 on October 24, 2008, 08:04:34 AM
you can find the size needed on the microfiche at ronayers.com and pick it up at Lowes or Home Depot
The screw has a special tapered tip to block the drain nipple, I don't think I'll find one at a hardware store. Might be able to buy one and grind the tip to fit, if it comes to that.
In that case how bout you send me $5 ... :icon_twisted: and say $2 shipping and its out tommorow ...
BTW you had a hex head or a phillips head ... OK scratch that, I may not be able to get you what you have to match the other one ...
But ... yes ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Will you throw in another float needle to replace the one with the stuck thing?
The bowl drain screw is phillips head, but yeah, don't care too much about that.
If I have it $5 ... Now stuck ? where ... the spring being stuck in it may not be that significant.
Cool.
Buddha.
Why is it spring-loaded on the stem, if it's not significant. I would think they would not bother with the extra complexity if there was no reason for it.
Dude ... its not needed to be spring loaded ... you just adjust it knowing it isn't ... the thing will loosen up with gas running though it and vibrations from running ... Then next time you open it, you readjust it.
BTW soak in penetrating oil a few hours and wiggle that spring loded plunger and it can come free ...
Cool.
Buddha.
So you set the float height with a small air gap between the float tang and the needle stem? Book says to set float height, with tang touching the stem. So if the stem isn't gong to compress any, you'd need an air gap = the amount the stem would normally compress. Have I got that right?
And don't call me Dude.
I set floats by blowing into the intake and failing that with U tube ... I never figured out the touching the float tang and 14.6 mm crap ... so you on your own there ... I have a bent steel piece that I screw in and tip the carbs and blow ... no air, loosen it 1/4 turn and blow and air ... booya ... set. That 14.6 BS was impossible to do.
Sorry ... I thought you was a dood ...
Cool.
Buddha.
I am male, just not Dude.
Anyway, your method of setting floats sounds interesting. I did the measuring thing the first time 14.6 with calipers. Then reinstalled carbs and checked with the clear tube. If the level was off, I dropped the bowl and adjusted the tan a little, then rechecked.
Can you explain your method a little more, I can be kinda dense, can't picture what you're doing.
I need to set them dry, I dont always do U tube ... takes too long and is messy ... so ...
I made a metal template that is shaped like a L. Or like an L1 (1 is the suffix).
The Its screwed into the carb body with a bolt that goes through the suffix area.
The L is just wide enough to chocke off the flow if its tightened to the carb.
I got that by doing a U tube ... and making that L based on the carb with the perfect float checked via U tube.
I adjust floats to flow if its 1/4 turn loose ... but not if its tight.
If you got 1 carb ... and can do U tube ... just do U tube and done.
Cool.
Buddha.
Hey Buddha,
I had forgotten all about this, being up to my ass in snow for the last three months. You still have this screw available, or maybe two, in case I do this again?
Yes I do, Let me know what exactly you need.
Cool.
Buddha.
You had mentioned $5 for 1 bowl drain screw, plus $2 shipping. How about $10 shipped for 2 bowl drain screws?
Let me know and I'll Paypal you,
Thanks,
Paul
You see 5 for 1 and 2 shipping = 10 for 2 and 2 shipping. Also supply and demand works here, buy 1 and its 5 each, buy 2 and its 6 each, 3 will be 7 each ... till it hits whatever it costs to make it.
OK I am being as ass, 10 is fine. But I have to find 2 now. So you wait ...
Cool.
Buddha.
LOL, thanks for the economics lesson. I'll go ahead and Paypal you, no rush on getting the parts to me, we just got another 2 inches of snow here, and it's 15 degrees with 35 mph gusts of wind.
Bagged and tagged man, and we had 45 degree highs with freaking 60 mph wind blowing all the damn dead leaves into my garage.
I hate that crap.
Cool.
Buddha.