im trying to remove the caps because i stripped the cover bolts. i need the rear caps labeled C and D. the bearing cap on the right side rear labeled D comes up as im unscrewing the 2 bolts holding it down but its also connected to the cam shaft bring that up with it and i cant separate the cap from the shaft. the other caps are loose so i think i can remove those but the two i need wont come away from the shaft. what am i doing wrong? am i missing a bolt somewhere or do i just need to use more muscle?
The cam chain tensioner needs to be removed. The cyl also should be at TDC, else the cam shaft will come with the cap. And you cannot tighten it back down if the cam chain tensioner is still in ...
Cool.
Buddha.
damn. ok thanks. that crossed my mind but was not sure.
so how do i fix my error? i cant screw the caps back in with out removing the tensioner . so whats the procedure i should follow to set the cam shaft and bearing caps back in place so i can set TDC and remove the caps? is it
1st remove tensioner
2nd screw caps and cam shaft back in place
3rd put tensioner back in
4th set tdc
then follow manual removal steps (correctly this time.)
Are you going to try and repair the caps or replace them with used parts? Camshaft caps are not sold seperately since they are bored and reamed in assembly with the head. Caps and head are sold as a set.
Quote from: socialDK on November 14, 2008, 09:29:40 PM
so how do i fix my error? i cant screw the caps back in with out removing the tensioner . so whats the procedure i should follow to set the cam shaft and bearing caps back in place so i can set TDC and remove the caps? is it
1st remove tensioner
2nd screw caps and cam shaft back in place
3rd put tensioner back in
4th set tdc
then follow manual removal steps (correctly this time.)
If you are removing the rear cam(intake cam) I would crank the engine over via the signal generator until your line the R-T mark up to the forward pickup, and the marks on the right hand side of the cams align. This puts in the intake cam on the base of the cam shaft for both cylinders. Once you have done that, then loosen and remove tensionerr. Remove the the two intake camshaft caps, helicoil the cam caps, and then reinstall back into the same location. Make sure you follow the proper torque values listed for the cam caps(IIRC its 10 ft/lbs)
Quote from: gsJack on November 15, 2008, 05:56:27 AM
Are you going to try and repair the caps or replace them with used parts? Camshaft caps are not sold seperately since they are bored and reamed in assembly with the head. Caps and head are sold as a set.
I plan on having the caps helicoiled. ok so per coll0412 last post 1st align r-t marks 2nd remove tensioner this will allow me to remove caps fix them and reinstall. do i have this right now? thanks
Snug the camshaft caps back down first and then turn the crankshaft only clockwise using a 19 mm wrench on the signal generator end of the shaft to align the marks like coll0412 described. Should be OK to remove the intake cam caps after you align the marks. Don't know why you would need to remove the chain tensioner after you have the engine in that position, with cyl 2 at TDC both intake cam lobes will be turned away from the buckets and the camshaft will remain in position while you take the caps off.
When you get the engine in position you should give the camshaft timing a quick check to make sure everything is OK. Arrow 1 on the exhaust cam gear pointing at the cyl head top finish line and 18 chain pins between arrows 2 and 3 on the exhaust and intake cam gears. The notches on the ends of the camshafts should be pointing in towards each other.
Thanks guys solved the problem easily. Is this also the position to remove the 2 front caps? I noticed the front left caps and rod rising when i loosened them same as original problem. And 2 new things i saw was some rust on front rotor and paint inside the valve cover chipping. any suggestions?
With the engine at TDC as previously described you should be able to take all four camshaft caps off. The left (#1) cyl exhaust valve spring is partially compressed so that end of the exhaust camshaft should rise a bit when you pull the cap but the camchain will will hold it from going further.
When my exhaust valve broke on my 02 GS about 4 years and 46k miles ago the engine would only turn a wee bit in either direction, it was locked up. I had to pull the camshafts and cylinder head in the position it stopped and removed the broken valve before I could turn the engine to the TDC position for reassembly after replacing the broken valve.
A little rust on the front rotor would be nice, I've got a lot there and on most everything else from splashing thru the salt water streets the past few winters here in NE Ohio. :laugh: Gotta take some pics of my rust one of these days to make others feel a little better about their rust.
Neither my 97 or 02 GSs had any paint inside the valve cover to chip off?