Well, I had a few requests to put a build thread on here so... here it is so far.
Frame (90% done)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1012081.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212082.jpg)
Front single a-arms (99% done)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/3011083.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/3011082.jpg)
Rear single swingarm, made using larger, stronger tubing than the plans show (100% done)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/3011085.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/3011084.jpg)
NOW, the bike. Yesterday bought this damaged GS-500F. The plate says it was manufactured December 2006, so I'm not sure if that means it is a 2007 model or a 2006. Anyway, I (unfortunately) neglected to take any pictures of it when I first got it home but I have this picture from the auction website.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/BikePic.jpg)
As you can see the whole front end was completely rooted, and the shocks were bent quite badly.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212083.jpg)
Almost all the fairings were cracked and broken
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212084.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212085.jpg)
Oil cooler was destroyed and the exhaust balance pipe has a dent in it (still looks useable, the main pipes are intact and not damaged)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212086.jpg)
Some of the usable bits which I will sell
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/12120810.jpg)
Here are some pictures of the bike as it sits now in the garage
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212087.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212088.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212089.jpg)
I've taken all the wiring out, the carburettors are out, exhaust is off, engine sprocket cover and sprocket is off, front end is all removed as well as the tank and the seat. I have drained the oil and I should be taking the engine out of the bike tomorrow afternoon. I will get some more pictures then.
The first (of many) questions: When I opened the under seat compartment there was an "L" plate. Is the GS-500F restricted (power-wise) for learner drivers? How can I check if it is restricted? And is there a cheap way to un-restrict it myself? I have a full workshop at my house with a lathe, mill drill, shaper, etc. so I should be able to make the necessary parts.
Comments, questions and criticism welcome.
Andrew
P.S anyone in Australia who is looking for some parts for their GS, PM me and I will put the part up on ebay.
forgive me, but all i can think of is you're building an X-Wing Fighter:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1012081.jpg)
and
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1212082.jpg)
and absolutely these are wings, not suspension!:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/3011083.jpg)
ok, i'm ribbin ya- looks like you know what you're doing there, and this is going to be a really cool build to follow. :)
your questions:
1) When I opened the under seat compartment there was an "L" plate. (no idea about the L plate, sorry)
2) Is the GS-500F restricted (power-wise) for learner drivers? (it may have had a restrictor ring in the airbox, but you can remove that easily enough (it just looks like a rubber doughnut) and re-jet the carbs easily enough if you care to))
3) And is there a cheap way to un-restrict it myself? yes, see answer 2 :)
4) I have a full workshop at my house with a lathe, mill drill, shaper, etc. so I should be able to make the necessary parts. (answer: i hate you. no, not really, just a good deal of envy because it looks like you're having quite a bit of fun and you happen to have a machine shop in the house ! woo hooo ! ) :)
I was going to wish you luck but you don't need it- you got it going ! :)
Thanks for the write up. That looks like a very fun project. I look forward to keeping track of your progress.
Quote from: ohgood on December 12, 2008, 05:28:41 AM
2) Is the GS-500F restricted (power-wise) for learner drivers? (it may have had a restrictor ring in the airbox, but you can remove that easily enough (it just looks like a rubber doughnut) and re-jet the carbs easily enough if you care to))
No, the GS500 is not restricted in Australia as it already fits within LAMS in its stock configuration.
I'm really looking forward to seeing your build progress! :thumb: :cheers:
looks awesome! How are you planning to mount the engine?
+1, Let's hope our beloved little engine doesnt let you down on the dunes!
if that tank has no damage, DIBS!
Thanks very much for the replies guys! Very encouraging.
ohgood, you are the third person to tell me it looks like a spaceship or something from star wars. I hope when it's finished it doesn't look like that.
The engine is mounted on the right hand side of the buggy, and I will be changing to a 50 tooth rear sprocket and possibly a 15 tooth front sprocket to get more acceleration. I'm aiming for a top speed of about 110km/h or about 70mph.
The buggy will not really be used on dunes, mostly on flat dirt roads with a few bumps on it. I am going to put a larger oil cooler on it with a fan to make SURE it doesn't overheat.
Hopefully later today I will be taking the engine out of the bike, will take pics.
I have another question. When I took the engine sprocket cover off it had some pretty heavy grease around the shift and clutch shafts. All the grease had dirt and rocks and stuff embedded in it. Do I need to put new grease there? I assume it was just there to prevent rust.
Andrew
Sweet idea. You need tach and cable and bracket for gauges?
Quote from: Beelzeboss on December 12, 2008, 07:12:12 PM
I have another question. When I took the engine sprocket cover off it had some pretty heavy grease around the shift and clutch shafts. All the grease had dirt and rocks and stuff embedded in it. Do I need to put new grease there? I assume it was just there to prevent rust.
Andrew,
That's chain lube. When the chain reverses direction inside the sprocket housing it slings off all the excess chain lube. The result is the mess you found. Just clean it all out. While you're in there, disassemble the clutch pushrod cam inside the sprocket cover, then clean, lubricate, and reinstall. Crap in the pushrod cam will give the clutch a "crunchy" feel. :laugh:
I suggest lubing your new drive chain with a Teflon chain spray. It goes on clear and does not collect dirt which will wear the chain and sprockets.
What kind of machinery do you have in your shop? Is it imported equipment, or Australian-made? I've never seen an Australian machine tool. :)
The bracket for the gauges was pretty bent up, but not cracked.
Thanks Geep, so should I take out the small rod which I assume is the clutch and clean and oil inside that hole? Good tip with the teflon spray, would silicon spray work as well?
The machinery in my workshop is mostly from Hare and Forbes, so it's imported. I tried to get the Taiwanese made machines instead of the chinese made ones as they are MUCH better quality. I have an HM30 mill drill, an AL-960B 12"x36" lathe, a Douglas 10-1/2" Shaper, a nameless drill press, and a HAFCO small horizontal bandsaw. I usually use these to build miniature steam and internal combustion engines but they are currently occupied building this buggy.
Andrew
P.S is going to straight pipes a bad idea? I don't mind wearing ear plugs under my helmet and I would like to sell the exhaust to try and get back some money. I know I will have to rejet.
Think the bracket and lights still work would be happy to buy just bracket if you don't wanna sell tach. My moms bf is a really good welder he could prob fix whatevers wrong with bracket {pics :) }
Andrew,
You don't need to pull the clutch pushrod from the engine, if that is what you're considering. It has a seal to keep out the dirt and is lubricated by engine oil behind the seal.
On the sprocket cover you removed, have a look at where the clutch cable comes in and connects to the clutch cam arm. There is a cup in the clutch release cam that engages the clutch pushrod. Remove that assembly from the sprocket cover and clean it up and re-lubricate as required. It will probably be filled with crap as well. On the exterior of the sprocket cover you'll find a small inspection plate with two screws in it. Remove this to help gain access to the mechanism. It is easy to disassemble/reassemble.
Silicone spray won't cut the mustard. Unfortunately, it wears away too quickly.
Since we're on the subject, I thought I'd take a minute to explain a few thoughts on motorcycle chain lube. Motorcycle chains are usually of the sealed variety. They have O-rings or X-rings or some other special seal between the link plates to help keep the chain grease where it belongs. However, the outside of the chain must still be protected from rust, the roller bushings must be lubricated to a degree (they're not sealed like the plates) and the O-rings themselves will fail prematurely without lube. The sprocket to roller interface does not require lubrication.
There are a few schools of thought on motorcycle chain lube. One school says lube it with gear oil, which works. However, it is messy and requires continuous upkeep as the oil collects abrasive dirt. With a continuous trickle of oil, the chain will last a VERY long time though.
Second in line is "chain lube". Basically industrial "tacky" chain lube in a spray can with a photo of a motorcycle plastered on the can. I used to use this stuff. It goes on thin, ends up thick and sticky, while retaining everything it comes in contact with. If it slings off onto your bodywork, good luck getting it off! Chains lubed with this stuff will last a long time, if you clean the chain with Kerosene religiously to remove abrasives.
Third in line are "chain waxes". These come in all kinds of forms, some are industrial, some are food-grade industrial, some are specific. Same thing, they sell it in a spray can with a motorcycle photo on the front. These spray out thin, usually clear or a light color, they dry to a tacky or perfectly dry finish. These work fine and are my #2 choice.
Then there's my current favorite, Dupont Teflon Multi-Purpose Spray. It comes in a can like this:
(http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/attachments/kawasaki-streetbikes-sportbikes/16746d1203101046-chain-lube-question-dupont_teflon_lube.jpg)
It acts like a chain wax, but is made up mostly of Teflon. The Teflon slowly builds up on the chain with multiple applications and does not wear off for at least a thousand miles. It seems to be superior to most chain waxes in that regard.
Frankly, the only reason why I prefer it over chain waxes is that it is readily available in my area, cheap, and has a fairly large following in both the motorcycle and industrial markets. It may, or may not be available over there. I buy mine at a lumber yard / home center called "Lowe's". The local hardware store also carries it.
Sounds like you have a nice setup there! I have been at other people's shops working on bikes / airplanes / whatever and I just can't understand how anybody can live without a full compliment of machine tools. :icon_lol:
Are you aware of www.practicalmachinist.com and www.homeshopmachinist.net ?
Going to straight pipes isn't bad if you like loud, angry lawnmower sound! :icon_mrgreen:
Keep up the good work! :thumbsup:
Thanks very much for that info Geep, and I completely agree about needing a workshop at the house. So very, very useful for so many things.
Hmmm, loud angry lawnmower sound? Do they really sound like that? What about if I put a rather large diameter pipe (4") at the last 2 feet or so of the pipe?
Is the stock chain that comes with the bike an O-ring chain, X-ring chain, or a roller chain?
stock chain is a 520 pitch, 110 link, o-ring chain.
+1 on the 'loud angry lawnmower' with straight pipes.
the star wars comment was a compliment, just so there is no confusion, i think it looks pretty cool as is !
practicalmachinist is one of my favorite places to glean information, and pick up usefull tricks. loooove that forum. i've thumbed through the home machinist at the book store, but haven't subscribed. i don't subscribe to -any- magazines though, so it's not a negative.
having a shaper means your shop is automagically 10x cooler. :)
got any pictures of your mini-steamers ?
(nice to know another metal hacker is on gstwins!)
Quotehaving a shaper means your shop is automagically 10x cooler.
Haha, thanks. They're so great for flattening surfaces and it feels really good to cut a perfect dovetail with a $4 tool rather than a $40. I have only built 2 mini steamers so far, and I'm half way through a 7cc horizontal, single cylinder, hopper cooled, 4-stroke petrol engine.
Here is the one steam engine I have a pic of http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Steam203.jpg (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Steam203.jpg)
I check practicalmachinist often, and also homeshopmachinist. There are also a couple more forums to do with metal working, but most that I have are geared toward 'model engineering' which is building miniature working models. Here are the main ones if you're interested:
http://floridaame.org/
http://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/index.php?www
http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/index.php?sid=12a17cb2d56c1eb54b5e5172e5b0015a
http://bbs.livesteam.net/forumdisplay.php?f=5
Then there's a couple of forums on buggy building, but that is mostly fabrication rather than machining. Still, might be interesting to someone.
http://edge.au.com/forum1/
http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/index.php
http://www.minibuggy.net/forum/
Tomorrow the engine comes out of the bike and goes into the buggy. (... well that's the plan, anyway)
On the straight pipes:
A few posts on this forum tend to imply that the GS500 does better with a little bit of back pressure. Straight pipes actually lose a bit of power (but maybe the ease of fabricating them makes it a worthwhile tradeoff?) Keep us posted! I've got my eye on this thread. :icon_eek:
Hahaha. Sweet.
Thats a 2007 gs. Same as mine. 8)
Straight pipes will not cost power. Increasing an engine's ability to breath a greater volume only bears the potential for more power. In certain respects all internal combustion engines are the same...you won't see any mufflers in NASCAR, F1, or (many) in MGP.
The problem is that people hack their mufflers off and don't support the modification...no shaZam! you'll lose power. You have to support every modification or you will never see the full potential.
nice project! I built a cart a few years ago, with a gsx750 engine. It flat out hauled.
(http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/5703/2381594990101593207S500x500Q85.jpg)
A tip for you, if you have to lengthen the oil cooler lines, make sure you flare the ends of the metal tubing, to be sure the hose doesn't slide off and pump all your oil onto the road. ask me how I know.......
after that happened, I put the kart into storage. About a month ago, I stumbled onto another gsx750 engine, so "Project Overkill" is back on!
If you have any questions, feel free to ask.
The front tires are a bit small. They arent the kind with built in bearings that are designed for hand trucks are they? Because those dont do well on karts.
No, I don't imagine wheelbarrow wheels would do well on a go kart. those are go kart wheels and tires.
something you might consider, look into a dune buggy title, and make it street legal................. :icon_mrgreen:
That kart looks like it would be a handful to say the least!
I'd love to get it registered littleblackjeep but in Australia it is pretty much impossible. It doesn't have a diff, the chassis must be torsion tested, it must comply with emissions... it just becomes WAY too expensive and time consuming.
Yesterday my friend and I removed the engine from the bike. It was a LOT more difficult than I imagined it would be... but it's out!
The engine is a LOT larger, physically, than I imagined it would be. I'm also a little concerned about not having an engine mount on the head. However, seeing how solid the engine is (and how heavy!) goes some way toward easing my mind.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/NakedEngine1.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/NakedEngine2.jpg)
Added a couple of bars to the frame
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1412081.jpg)
Driving shot
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1412082.jpg)
Looking very good. Too bad Australia makes it too hard to register, that would be sweet...
OK, I have done a bit more since the last update. HAVE PICS!
Close up of the bars which I added to the front of the frame:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1912088.jpg)
Put on the rear suspension mounts:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/19120811.jpg)
Cut the frame :cookoo:
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1912086.jpg)
Then welded it back together 20mm downwards. The HUGE Suzuki engine won't fit otherwise :icon_twisted: (Really though, this engine is physically massive. The gearbox is WAY wider than most new engines)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/19120810.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1912089.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1912082.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1912083.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/1912081.jpg)
I also bought two shocks from a yamaha XT-550. Unfortunately the designer of the Edge buggies says that I will have to upgrade the springs in them to make them work properly. I'ill see how it goes.
Andrew
cooler by the minute ! thanks for keeping us updated with the build. ok, the engine placement, one thing to say - HEATSHIELD ! the engine will be throwing some serious heat :)
rock on !
Don't listen to Edge...they know how to make a suspension that looks slick but not one that necessarily works well. You can make any shocks work with proper links, which is really the way to do it. Going straight you'll be a bit disapointed.
This thing is gonna be awesome!
great write-up. can't wait to see finished product.
Got pics of tachometer (measures rpms) and gauge assembly (gauges go in it)? :)
Sorry Loki, I competely forgot about the tach and my Mum has the camera today. Will definitely take the pics this afternoon.
Quotethey know how to make a suspension that looks slick but not one that necessarily works well. You can make any shocks work with proper links, which is really the way to do it. Going straight you'll be a bit disapointed.
I agree with you about changing the links, or where the shock is mounted to make it work, but I don't really agree with you with regards to the Edge suspension designs. Remember that they are not designed for sand dunes, which is what most buggies in the US are built for, they are designed for high speed cornering. They do this very well, from the ones I have seen. An Edge Barracuda will run rings around any sand buggy in every situation except on the dunes.
Anyway, it is true that the suspension looks pretty awesome with the inboard shocks but I may have to make them outboard to get stiff enough suspension.
Keep the comments coming guys, they help with motivation to finish the project.
It's all gravy :laugh:
MERRY CHRISTMAS!
Well, I have a small update. I have done 2.5 of the 4 engine mounts. I need to get some bolts to do the front and rear mounts because they need to be removable so that I can get the engine in and out.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512084.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512085.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512083.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512082.jpg)
All mounts have these machined washers (made on the lathe) so that if it needs to be moved slightly I can machine a slightly thicker/thinner washer to move the engine.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512086.jpg)
Here is a picture of the frame as it is now
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512087.jpg)
And Rocky likes to think he has helped a bit
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512081.jpg)
Loki, I have PM'd you the pic's of the gauge cluster. They show all the damage.
Thought I'd put in a couple of pics of the carburetors... They just look so awesome, and I'll probably have some questions later about re-jetting :D
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/Carburetors3.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/Carburetors2.jpg)
Mmmmmmmm, duct tape.
What the hell is all of that on the carbs? Different emissions stuff for you guys across the pond?
No my cali 04 has that crap.
I was going to build a sand rail with either GS engine re-geared or an SV engine for low end torque. The problem I cam across is no reverse if your on the r trail and pic a bad line or what ever How do you avoid that with a GS engine?
Where I drive will be mostly farms, so no trees. Also because of the short wheelbase the buggy should be able to do a 180 burnout in about twice it's own length. If there isn't enough room to do that, it's get out and push time :laugh:
If you wanted reverse you would be restricted to quad bike engines, car engines (too heavy), some kind of reverse box ($$$$), or an electric reverse system (slow).
The carbs do seem to have a lot of unnecessary vacuum hoses.
On the 2nd pic of the carbs, what is the electrical connection coming out at the bottom? I know the other connection is throttle sensor position (why does this bike need a throttle position sensor?). I have labelled them all and the corresponding connections on the wiring so I can reassemble it, but I am still not sure what all the wires are for. I have a wiring diagram and that should help when I get around to looking at it and doing the wiring.
Damn, I never even thought of the reverse issue. We should probably develop this some more and see what kind of ideas other forum members can contribute. Only thing I could think of to utilize the GS engine for reverse involves overly complicated linkage and gears that could change to direction the sprocket spins in, and that's no good at all!
How about slapping a Goldwing engine on there! :icon_mrgreen:
Are you crazy? A Goldwing engine? That's bigger than the engine in my car! The GS engine is already slightly too big for this buggy.
Finished modifying the steering rack. Instead of tacking a bush on one end, I decided to machine a press fit bushing on the lathe to press into the rack. I might have to bore it out a bit more, but at the moment it works perfectly.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2110911.jpg)
Rear bearing plates arrived from Edge, so now the rear swingarm is 100% complete except paint
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211092.jpg)
520 50 tooth sprocket from a motorcycle shop in Brookvale was $40 new. The guy went through all the 520 50 tooth sprockets to find me the cheapest, AND then he gave me a discount! I think it looks pretty good. The place was called APW motorcycles.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2110910.jpg)
Picked up a seat on ebay. A friend and I bought the pair for $140, and I got the more faded one because I need the reclining lever on the left. It won't fit on the right because of the engine.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211095.jpg)
Mounted the oil cooler at the back of the buggy. If I was to do it again I would save some money by using rigid steel pipes, rather than the expensive oil cooler lines.
The original GS oil cooler was badly damaged in the accident, so this aftermarket universal transmission cooler should do the job, once I put a couple of fans on it.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211096.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211097.jpg)
Removed the rear brake assembly from the bike
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211099.jpg)
Made the suspension pivot pins. The rear one is a bit longer than stock because I made the pivot wider.
Instead of threading the end of the pins I decided to use cotter/split pins through the end of the bars.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211098.jpg)
Seat rails without the holes drilled in them
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211094.jpg)
One of the wing supports done. It was easier to cut the correct angles than I expected
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211093.jpg)
Also, I fitted the front suspension mounts. I had to tack and grind off the top suspension mount like 10 times to get it in the right spot and square to everything. Magnets helped hold it in place but made the arc (during welding) go a little bit strange
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211091.jpg)
I hope to have the buggy done by the 1st of feb. It will be close, but I think I can make it, especially if my friend comes over to help.
Andrew
Looking good. Can't wait to see it finished.
With a cooler that size you won't need fans. how much higher above the engine will the new cooler be mounted?
Since the oil cooler is so far above the engine, be sure to include a check valve and an inline relief valve in your oil cooler setup.
The check valve goes in the supply side, to prevent the contents of the oil cooler from draining back into the engine. The inline relief, set to 3PSI or so, prevents the return line from emptying back into the engine, but passes oil flow under pump pressure. BOTH must be installed as close to the engine as possible.
You don't want to have the oil pump charge that HUGE oil cooler every time you start the engine. It will be running without pressure for quite a while!
I would install an oil pressure gauge as well, so you can monitor charging time.
A thermostat would be a good idea, as well.
In all seriousness, since the engine is out in the open, there's not really much need for a cooler at all.
Did you buy plans for this buggy from somewhere or are you just building this from scratch? How much money do you have into it at this point if you don't mind me asking?
Thanks,
Nick
Quote from: Beelzeboss on January 20, 2009, 11:52:37 PM
Are you crazy? A Goldwing engine? That's bigger than the engine in my car! The GS engine is already slightly too big for this buggy.
Finished modifying the steering rack. Instead of tacking a bush on one end, I decided to machine a press fit bushing on the lathe to press into the rack. I might have to bore it out a bit more, but at the moment it works perfectly.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2110911.jpg)
Rear bearing plates arrived from Edge, so now the rear swingarm is 100% complete except paint
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211092.jpg)
Some would say I AM crazy, but I just think having a reverse is a must with something you cant just back up using your feet.
520 50 tooth sprocket from a motorcycle shop in Brookvale was $40 new. The guy went through all the 520 50 tooth sprockets to find me the cheapest, AND then he gave me a discount! I think it looks pretty good. The place was called APW motorcycles.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2110910.jpg)
Picked up a seat on ebay. A friend and I bought the pair for $140, and I got the more faded one because I need the reclining lever on the left. It won't fit on the right because of the engine.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211095.jpg)
Mounted the oil cooler at the back of the buggy. If I was to do it again I would save some money by using rigid steel pipes, rather than the expensive oil cooler lines.
The original GS oil cooler was badly damaged in the accident, so this aftermarket universal transmission cooler should do the job, once I put a couple of fans on it.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211096.jpg)
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211097.jpg)
Removed the rear brake assembly from the bike
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211099.jpg)
Made the suspension pivot pins. The rear one is a bit longer than stock because I made the pivot wider.
Instead of threading the end of the pins I decided to use cotter/split pins through the end of the bars.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211098.jpg)
Seat rails without the holes drilled in them
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211094.jpg)
One of the wing supports done. It was easier to cut the correct angles than I expected
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211093.jpg)
Also, I fitted the front suspension mounts. I had to tack and grind off the top suspension mount like 10 times to get it in the right spot and square to everything. Magnets helped hold it in place but made the arc (during welding) go a little bit strange
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/211091.jpg)
I hope to have the buggy done by the 1st of feb. It will be close, but I think I can make it, especially if my friend comes over to help.
Andrew
Thanks very much for the comments guys.
Geep,
Since the oil cooler is mounted upside down, and there are no air leaks, and the outlets for the cooler are under the oil level... how can it empty out? Where does the air get into the system?
Also, while filling the oil cooler is oil getting to the rest of the engine? I would hate for the engine to be running without oil for even a few seconds on startup.
Which direction does the oil flow through the cooler? Or, which side of the engine is the oil pumped OUT?
Cheers,
Andrew
Quote from: Beelzeboss on January 22, 2009, 05:59:12 PM
Where does the air get into the system?
I'm pretty sure it would be by way of that little black hose on top of the engine.
(http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee224/jones_pbkt/Sidewinder/2512087.jpg)
The cooler will drain when the oil lines siphon it empty.
On top of that you've added about a quart of capacity...so there's a whole world of complication there. It's also going to cost you about 5psi of oil pressure.
Oil coolers need to be mounted as low as possible, and as close to the engine as possible.
Any idea on how much you've spent on the build? where did you get the plans from or are you making this from scratch?
Thanks,
Nick
As Mak said, the oil cooler can empty over a period of hours or days. The weight of the oil will force it back through the bearings or the pump, obtaining fresh air from the engine vent. This is most likely to happen when the oil is of low viscosity, such as after running on a summer day.l
To prevent this, a check valve must be installed in the engine oil outlet, and a pressure valve installed in the engine oil cooler return.
The relief prevents drain-back through the oil pump. The pressure valve, set slightly above the pressure the head of oil exerts, prevents the oil from flowing under gravity into the bearings. Both valves allow flow under engine pump pressure, at the cost of slightly diminished oil pressure.
It is best practice to install an oil cooler as low as possible. By rights, the highest part of the oil cooler should be at or below the engine sump to prevent drainback. But, with the correct design, mounting the oil cooler high can work reliably. It is done every day.
When the oil cooler is filling, the engine is not receiving oil pressure if the GS engine is designed for full-flow cooling, which is likely is.
I'm not sure which side is the pressure and which is the return. A quick bit of experimentation would confim that though. Pull the plugs and crank it over.
Once installed, be sure to pre-oil the engine and fill the cooler. Fill it as much as possible manually before installation. Before the first test run, pull the plugs and turn the fuel off. Crank the engine until you see oil pressure, then another 5-10 seconds to ensure the system is primed.
I would install a thermostatically controlled fan on the oil cooler. I would aim to keep the oil temperature in the 180F-240F range.
Nick, the plans are from http://www.edge.au.com (http://www.edge.au.com), and it is called the "Sidewinder"
Thanks GeeP, I think the easiest and cheapest thing to do is to relocate the oil cooler to very low and just in front of the engine. It will be even lower than it is in the bike, so I hope this will solve any potential problems.
Thanks everyone for patiently answering my questions and explaining things. It has been a real help during the build.
Andrew
I would hangg the thing below the front engine mount. I'd actually try to find a way to have the top of the oil cooler below the "full" mark on your oil sight glass.
While I understand the argument against mounting the cooler up high, Mine was above the engine.
(http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/5703/2381594990101593207S500x500Q85.jpg)
right in front of the fuel tank, behind the drivers head.
Now, I don't know what the pressure needs to be for the little light to come on, but there was always enough pressure in the line to keep the light off.
Alright, the buggy is nearing completion. No pircs right now, but should get some tomorrow. On tuesday I'm going on a massive (buggy parts) shopping spree and getting everything (hopefully0 needed to finish it. I hope it's done, minus paint, by the 1st of Feb.
Big question: how do I get the chain off the bike? I'd rather not cut off the swingarm because I might be able to sell it.
I can't see a master link on the chain, but it was pretty dirty so I might have missed it.
Chain breaker / chain splitter,
Kinda a hand held press that pushes out the pins and can be used to join it up again.
Like this.
http://www.autotools.com.au/images/products/CR002.jpg
Motorcycle
Motorcycle Drive Chain Breaker
Part Number : ATCR002
Use to remove and assemble chain connecting links, rivet pins and connecting link plates on most motorcycle drive chains etc. Pin Diam: 3.5mm to 6mm. Capacity: 3mm to 22mm.
Price: $76.45