Think if i use large nuts to derust my tank and put a large magnet on a stick i could get them (and the rust) all out? Looking at this as viable option for de-rusting tank now that my filters in.
bwahaha that'd be funny and if it'd work that'd be crazY!
Lol yeah a friend told me he did it on an atv tank with peagravel or rocks or something and he said it worked fine so... (Also the wiki lists peagravel but how the hell you'd get that out of a gs500 tank don't ask me :)
pecan shells are good at deburring metal...
walnut shells are better ...
the problem is do you really want to put your tank in a cement mixer for 2-3 days with nuts in it ?
use acid instead, it's fast, easy, and done without destroying the tank, your cement mixer, or your nuts !
Lmao meant metal nuts and thought i'd just shake it up a lot lol (plus force lil bro to help lol). Acid does seem like a good alternative though, reccomendations/tips on acid?
man i dunno but i'm in the same boat as u i need to get rust outta my tank too but don't feel like forking over cash haha
as soon as u find a solution let me know lol
lol heard about one guy who put nuts, gravel, watever in his tank wrapped it in blankets and threw it in the drier. :laugh:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dT3vUX7vUGs&feature=related
dunno if u checked this out yet
Cool. Think i'll be fine with acid and fuel filter though.
word tell me how that goes for u
K think i'm gonna try the acid that doesn't eat rust as much as change it into some sort of iron... As soon as i scrounge up the money :cry:
Don't use nuts,it's hard getting them all out even with magnet,I should know >:(
Quote from: loki7714 on December 17, 2008, 07:59:38 PM
Lmao meant metal nuts and thought i'd just shake it up a lot lol (plus force lil bro to help lol). Acid does seem like a good alternative though, reccomendations/tips on acid?
take it in small amounts 8) lol
Quote from: Affschnozel on December 18, 2008, 12:36:03 AM
Don't use nuts,it's hard getting them all out even with magnet,I should know >:(
And for the love of God, never use chain!
Chain sounds like a good idea... Why not?
In a GS tank neither chain not nuts can reliably get rust out from the most important location of all ... where 99% of the leaks occour, and where rust is installed at the factory ... that's right, they install it at the factory. What is worse, and I dont have proof of this cos I never did try it, even electrolysis will not get rust out of there. The crap pocket.
The best thing about acid etching is that, it will prolly attack the crap pocket a lot harder than it will attack everywhere else, you have trouble getting things out of there ... so acid gets in and eats it good. Chasing that acid with hot water and baking soda should get it killed off.
Cool.
Buddha.
I did this on my tank before coating with por15 on my first bike. It was a trick I learned from my stepfather and he swore by it. I only out about 1000 miles on the bike before I sold it but it seemed to hold up well for that time! Trick to remember is you are going to need to do it for a LONG time, and when you think you've got it all then your halfway done! Also use an assortment of different size nuts and bolts but make sure they ALL get out when done!
I sandblast tanks here using special equipment.
Here's the result:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v11/horteniv/interior.jpg)
This bike had over 2 gallons of water in the tank.
Sandblasting has the added benefit of providing a "tooth" for the tank coating to adhere to. The metal as-fabricated has a cold finish, which is not conducive to mechanical bonding of the tank coating.
Cool looks like a lot of rust left though... Coating should deal with that though.
That's just the discoloration and pitting left behind by the rust. The rust is gone.
O ok. Cool... How/why the hell did it have 2 gallons of water in it? :cookoo:
The gas cap leaked and it was stored outside.
Oh.
Well what type of acid should i use? Wiki lists two and i'm leaning more towards the one that makes iron form or something like that... Just seems like that one is less likely to damage tank, I guess?
I've never tried the acid-etch method, so I'm not much help there Loki.
Sounds like you'll just have to experiment! :icon_mrgreen: :confused:
How did your carbs go?
Fine just trying to make sure I've hooked up all the hoses right lol.
Quote from: loki7714 on December 18, 2008, 05:21:33 AM
Chain sounds like a good idea... Why not?
It wraps around the cap depression drain tube. That's the easy one as you can a least see it through the filler. Depending on the size of the chain, it may become wedged in the "crap pockets" or the area at the extreme front of the tank where the bottom and top taper together. It then acts like a chinese finger trap, the harder you pull-the more it binds. Working through the filler, you can't pull at an angle that would release it. It may work fine in some tanks but not the GS500. Like Buddah said, nothing will mechanically clean the crevices as well as a liquid.
Makes sense... What type of acid?
I doubt anythign other than acid (and use muriatic acid - available at hardware store) will get the crap pocket.
GeeP - how you get that pic and can you show the crap pockets and how they look ?
Chain wrapping around the vent tube isn't too bad. It will get wiggled out if you're patient. I just dont think any chain will get to the crap pocket and scrape it. You could acid treat after a chain session with a primary goal to get acid etching in the crap pocket and scraping everywhere else. However ... that defeats the whole purpose of chain ... you might as well use acid for all of it. Crap pockets are the rustiest, thinnest and the most vulnerable place to have any type of leak. The rest of the tank can pretty much be treated with anything.
Cool.
Buddha.
Cool thanks for the help you guys can't wait to finally get bike up and running after not being able to ride for a week or so :)
In this weather it will take over 3-4 days to do a decent POR job. You may need to sit it in front of a space heater or a dish heater for the first day after putting in POR, and you wanna get it bone dry before putting in POR. All these rainy humid and cold days are just wrong for POR.
Dry and hot ... may be worth it to wait till spring.
Cool.
Buddha.
This whole week in SOUTH CAROLINA HAS BEEN GRAND!
hitting up to 70 degree weather and low is like 50 to 60 which ain't bad at all!
Same here in louisiana :D
Shut up you 2. I got rain ... everyday ... if not that its in the 30's like last weekend.
Cool.
Buddha.
Lol and i thought louisiana had shitty weather... Lol guess you'll be laughing at us in the summer though, hot as hell down here :icon_twisted: :-X
yeah its pretty hot in South Caolina in the summer here too =(
So after i clean out the rust with acid and the acid with baking soda and hot water. What do i clean out the baking soda with? Also how do i clean this and do i leave it in when doing acid treatment? If not how do i cover holes while acid treating?
(http://c3.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images02/26/m_b83e3467b96242c79b3cc374d6b44386.jpg)
Also does that thing serve as a sort of fuel filtration as well?
Bump :)
I removed the petcock and made a plate from steel to bolt in it's place. Some kind of gasket is advisable (I used duct tape). I'm not sure how to securely seal the filler, as I was using non corrosive rust remover (Evapo-Rust). Maybe you can put plastic wrap over the opening and close the cap? I used lots of water for a final rinse. After getting most of the water out through the petcock hole, use the method in the post below to remove the rest.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=45667.msg512332#msg512332 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=45667.msg512332#msg512332)
The next step was to reinstall the block off plate to the petcock opening, pour in a quart of 91% rubbing alcohol and slosh it around to absorb any remnants of water. Remove the plate, drain, and use the same method in the post above to remove the rest. If your not going to apply a sealer, let the tank sit (upside down so the remainig liquid isn't pooled in the crap pockets) for an hour or two in a warm area so most of the remaining alcohol will evaporate, then fill with gas so it doesn't start to rust again. If you are going to apply a sealer, the tank may need to sit much longer to assure it is completely dry inside. As far as I know, the light rust that may occur during drying has no affect on applying a sealer.
What's filler? And by petcock do you mean tank petcock?
Corks up to 2.5" or so are available at many hardware stores. (For the filler neck)
Agreed on the blockoff plate. Except, I would use Aluminum. Much easier to work with hand tools. A small hobby piece can be found at Lowe's, or you can look for a suitable drop at the local metals supply (if you have one). Make a small gasket from some 1/16 cork from NAPA.
You could always train a mouse to use sand paper. that would be the greatest ever.
For the fule petcock I use inner tube and get the pickup plastic filter tube pulled out and both it back in with inner tube in the middle.
The Cap - yes rubber stopper is OK.
You actually do acid, then drain it, water from a garden hose, then baking soda with boiling water - 1 gal is plenty and you only use a couple spoons of soda cos the garden hose should get the acid out, and then follow with very hot water. So, acid, garden hose, baking soda and boiling water, and then boiling water. The tank has to be very hot, and when you top the last of the water out, somehow dunk a towel or other absorbing thing in it, and soak up the water and get it dry. Then sit in front of a very hot space heater. Without tank being hot when you get to the last of the water ... you dont have a prayer. The GS tank holds in pretty much 1-1.5 pints, plenty to bury your POR 15 into a useless lump at the bottom of the tank.
Cool.
Buddha.
http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=1&dept=1
Loki, I'm going to do this in the next couple weeks, depending on weather. How's it going with you? Have you done this job yet? Please share your advice here.
Muriatic acid is an old name for hydrochloric acid. Available at hardware stores and pool-supply stores. It is used to lower pH in pools.
Buy as much alcohol as possible! 90%
No water without baking soda in it shound touch the tank after the acid! ;) Learn fro my mistakes...
OK. (But you make it sound exciting!) :icon_eek:
Woops lol meant isopropyl alcohol ;) Get a lot... and have everything together before you start b/c after you pour in the acid it can get hectic ;) :D