The 01 carbs are a bit more of a pain to balance. I'll describe what I did, and maybe somebody can point out if I did something stupid. A couple of questions are at the end...
First, the vacuum ports are not in the same spot as described in the manual. They are lower on the carb, right above the outlet to the engine, but below the cables for throttle and clutch. This required me to remove the airbox and carbs from the engine block just to reach the $#% vacuum cap.
Second, the right side vacuum port is occupied by the vacuum line for the fuel switch. I looked all over the carb and couldn't find another port for that to go on...so..it seems right.
Third. The right side port is larger than the left side. The left side is 1/4" and the right is 5/16 or so.
So I hooked up some 1/4" clear tubing, with a bit of water in it, to the left side and got a universal vacuum hose adapter from Autozone and connected the other end of the tubing to the vacuum line for the fuel switch. I mounted the tubing in a big "U" as in the $5 carb balancer thread, minus the "T" connectors and valving...which I couldn't find at anyplace that is open on the weekends... A note here for other people that try this...I didn't have any problems with the sensitivity of the balancer without the valve, but trying to get about two feet of water into the very center of 20 ft of hose *without* air bubbles took several tries and an air compressor to blow the water out of the tube in between tries. I will install at least some "L" connectors or something so that the lines to the bike are seperate from the "U" that holds the water.
Finally I reattached the carb and airbox to the engine and fired it up, in "prime", since my fuel switch vacuum line was now part of a strange looking carb balancer leaning against my bike.
I let it warm up for a couple minutes on choke and then took the choke off. It ran pretty crappy at idle. every 5 or 10 strokes, the engine missed and blew fire up the clear tubing...quite trick really, i think everyone will be doing it in the future, but I fear long term engine damage, so i brought the revs ups to about 2000 where the kicking and coughing diasappeared. I figured this was close enough to the 1750 that chlymer says i should balance the carbs at.
I balance the carbs, (with my tank sitting sideways on the bike so that I could reach the screw. By the way do this when you have an almost empty tank...or rig a set up with the lawnmower tank that I've seen others describe), shut 'er down and disassembled everything again so that I could get my hoses off and the real hoses/caps back on. I assembled everything and man was it smooth...loved it.
Questions: what would cause flames to periodically shoot through the vacuum hose?
Why, when I revved the engine...did the two carbs go way out of balance? I held it at 5k or so and the balance was different than 2k. I'm sorry I can't quantify what way off is, but 8 or so inches of water in a 1/4" tube is what i'm talking about.
Could this have been caused because I haven't cut the fender off yet?
If I ever get a digital camera...maybe I'll take some pictures...
having carb synced it twice with paul (pkasso) I will say yes..the two vaccume inlets are differnet sizes and are not in teh same level.
We used a professional carb sync tool at first, it was a lot better, then we used the cheapo carb sync thing.. it worked a lot better.
Yes when you raise the tach it goes more and more out of sync.. its weird i tell you..
I dont know what's causing flames up the vaccume tube..
paul might have more to add.
I just want to compound the information from two posts. Saves alot of searching.
Quote
(http://www.telusplanet.net/public/kcaldwel/GS500/Carb_Balancer.jpg)
An awful lot of the carb and running problems on the board could be solved by properly balancing the carbs.
I'm not going to go into great detail about how to do that (the single screw between the carbs), but I'd like to show you the simple carb balancer I use. I got the design from a guy on the BMW list ages ago. It is a bit unique in that has adjustable sensitivity. This allows the whole thing to be reasonably sized, and allows the use of coloured water as the indicator.
The adjustable sensitivity comes from the aquarium valve at the top, between the two legs. By opening this valve, you can equalize the vacuum on both legs. As you clowly close this valve, the sensitivity to differences in vacuum between the two input tubes increase, allowing you to balance the carbs finer and finer. Fully closed it is far more sensitive than any vacuum guage or mercury carb stick.
The tubing is just 1/4" OD ( 0.170" ID) vinyl tubing from the aquarium shop or auto store.
If you accidently suck the water through the engine, it is fine. You'll just get a little water vapour in the exhaust.
Can anyone take a picture of where I should put the hoses on the carb to use this balancer thingamajig?
Quote from: Queso on June 03, 2006, 12:10:28 PMCan anyone take a picture of where I should put the hoses on the carb to use this balancer thingamajig?
On your 2000 (and earlier) model, remove item 14 from both diaphragm covers in
THIS DIAGRAM (http://images.powersportsnetwork.com/fiche/images/Suzuki/1997/Motorcycles/2104_12.gif) and push the balancer tubes onto the same spigots.
14 is that little washer we aren't supposed to remove, right? You must be talking about the tube above it on which one side has a cover and the other has a vacuum hose? Also... What do I adjust to balance them? I thought I read there was a screw in the middle somewhere, but the closest I see to that is the idle screw...
Edit: Ahh... I see part 14 is also the cover over the hole... Alrighty.
Isn't #23/24 the idle screw, and #38/39 the sync screw?
Quote from: NightRyder on June 04, 2006, 10:24:57 AMIsn't #23/24 the idle screw, and #38/39 the sync screw?
Correct. (Well ... technically, 24 and 38 are springs.)
Great, thanks! Maybe I can finally make an actual improvement on my bike's operation :icon_mrgreen: