Hi guys. Got the new intake boots and installed with the new factory o-rings. fixed the vacuum problem.BUT now can't start.Once I installed the new intake i checked for vacuum leaks with a DIY stethoscope, no leaks. ran the bike for a while, was very rich. left for a while walked back out and started the bike no issues. come out next morning and won't start, just keeps cranking. can't even get it to push start.
everything is stock. carb has just been completely cleaned. all jets done. floats checked. new plugs. checked all ignition system. good compression. can see the spark from the plugs when held to the body. air filter is clear. exhaust is stock. fuel is new. fuel filter is clear. valves are spot on.
Any ideas? I have exhausted all options on here and in the manual.
UPDATE. see post #3
are you getting fuel into the motor?
Two things to check. Make sure your choke isn't stuck on. Lube the cable on BOTH ends, and make sure the little choke plunger isn't sticking and will move in and out freely. Mine wasn't when I bought it. WD-40 did the trick. (doesn't it always?) And put the petcock in the PRIME position when you start it. If the vacuum operated diaphragm isn't opening you'll get no fuel to the bowls and you can push your brains out and it won't start. I run my bike in the PRIME position so I get plenty of fuel flow and return it to ON or RESERVE when I park it for safety. The diaphragm is lame. Don't use it unless the bike is parked.
plugs do get wet after a while, and it stinks of fuel when i flood it.
I checked the vacuum around the intake. they are still leaking.
both the head side and carbie side have small leaks.
brand new intakes and o-rings, how can this be the case???
is there secret trick to installing these?? ....HELP
This is the best way I can help you to install your intakes correctly. Here's the online Haynes service manual:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/7178815/Suzuki-GS500-Full-Service-Manual
Thanks for the link, I actually have the clymers one as well.
So I had all these same leak issues with the old intakes, hence why I bought brand new ones, and still there is a leak on both the head side and carbie, that is what I don't understand, the head side is flat and therefore should be no problems, but it still leaks. Starting to pull my hair out on this one. I've set it in urethane last night. see what happens today.
Anyone who has issues with intakes, intake manifold rubber boots, my solution was fairly straight forward. Urethane, or sikaflex. The most common use for it in the States is for windscreen installation. It is a 3M product you can purchase from most/all autopart stores. Goes off best in water, so squeeze some on whatever it is you are fixing, spit on your finger and smooth it out. Make sure to get it off your hands asap as it will stick like shi+ to a blanket. Will go off in about 1hour or less if you mist some water on it. I have used this to patch a great big split in my fuel tank before as well, when everything else failed. Fuel resistant once it is completely cured. The whole water thing is because the japanese invented it to patch boat hulls underwater, so of course it goes off best when in moisture. I've also used it for gaskets as well as anything made of rubber. theoretically you could build the intakes out of it completely if you wanted to mold it. Anyone who disagrees has obviously never used it, as I have for 10+ years. :thumb:
P.S. around $19 in a white cartridge, not to be mistaken for cheesy caulking urethane.
Quote from: tomtampa on March 17, 2009, 12:45:02 PM
Anyone who has issues with intakes, intake manifold rubber boots, my solution was fairly straight forward. Urethane, or sikaflex. The most common use for it in the States is for windscreen installation. It is a 3M product you can purchase from most/all autopart stores. Goes off best in water, so squeeze some on whatever it is you are fixing, spit on your finger and smooth it out. Make sure to get it off your hands asap as it will stick like shi+ to a blanket. Will go off in about 1hour or less if you mist some water on it. I have used this to patch a great big split in my fuel tank before as well, when everything else failed. Fuel resistant once it is completely cured. The whole water thing is because the japanese invented it to patch boat hulls underwater, so of course it goes off best when in moisture. I've also used it for gaskets as well as anything made of rubber. theoretically you could build the intakes out of it completely if you wanted to mold it. Anyone who disagrees has obviously never used it, as I have for 10+ years. :thumb:
P.S. around $19 in a white cartridge, not to be mistaken for cheesy caulking urethane.
sounds like a good product to be familiar with. would you mind posting a picture of the tube/container front and back ?
tanx !
(http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/levineauto_2041_62067737)
How does it deal with heat ???
Cool.
Buddha.
no issues with heat. I've used it to gasket manifolds on a 4.3L