Hi everybody i m Armagan from Turkey :) from Middle East Technical University I have a little gs500e 98" orange, when i bought this bike it looks very terrible (i will put some photo), whatever, my problems;
1. While starting the engine (here is cold reigon temprature is 00-10c these days), firts 5-10minutes from carb side i have some sound like a short bird (maybe 1ms) scream. and pistons have very noise, i noticed that they are locked sometimes but after engine is warmed up there is no problem with these.
2. When bike is on low RPM i cannot get any accelaration on first gear on taking off.Like ,although i turn my throttle no gas runs into engine but sometimes and after progressive and high rpm using its more often. sound is very raucous at these times but when i throttle more very quickly engine goes normal.
3. After some progressive drive in high RPM like 20 min, when bike is on the idle i get some noise from the engine like hitting a big stone to another very scary sound to me :)
but in the High RPM i cannot notice any different noise or power loss but in low rpm and in the idle engine has no stablitiy and no good sound and no good performance
i will do something in this month
1. i will check cyclinder head
2. i will clean up carb
but third problem is very scary one because although sound is not loud as normally heard, very powerful not like a little piece of metal parts like a big rock hit the wall but no vibration more in the engine while this happening
Thanks for all sorry about bad english
Hi Armagan,
Welcome to our GS500 world. :)
I met a man from Istanbul several years ago and he sold me some model toy taxicabs of old black and yellow Istanbul Ford taxis. Very cool. :)
About your bike, I have several questions:
How many miles on the bike?
If you unscrew the oil dipstick, what does the oil look like? Smell like? Any white creamy stuff in the oil (that would be water)? Does it smell burned? It it translucent or opaque in color?
Have you ever checked the valve adjustment on the engine?
The noises you describe are not sounding good, though one noise that is common on the GS500 is camshaft end play -- where the cam moves sideways in its mountings and makes a "banging noise." But that is in the top of the engine and is very easy to find.
Is the noise only when the engine is COLD?
And it goes away when it warms up?
That could be valve adjustment -- you could have very loose valve lash.
Or it could be piston slap, where the cylinder bores are worn due to poor oil maintenance.
It also sounds like that bird squeal you mentioned could be an air intake leak. Maybe one of your black rubber carburetor boots is cracked or loose and is leaking air? That could cause engine damage due to running excessively lean, which would describe some of the other problems you are having with the bike.
There also could be a vacuum leak from a vacuum hose.
Your running and idle problems are likely carbs related, probably from dirt and sludge in the jets and tiny fuel passages that need to be cleaned.
Your noises when riding can also be related to very loose chain adjustment -- there could be chain slippage around the engine-mounted countershaft sprocket that you are haring below you. If the adjustment is very loose, it could be very noisy and make "banging" noises you describe.
There are ways to check all of this, but let's start with more detailed symptoms from you to help us figure it out.
It could be a lot of things.
Tell us more and let's see what we can figure out.
Please be very careful riding this until you fix it!
Best wishes and welcome again, my friend.
Yours,
Trwhouse
P.S. You English is fine, by the way. :) You should see the "English" of some of the wizards here on the board who are from the United States. :)
Quote from: bladebj on March 10, 2009, 05:02:23 AM
Hi everybody i m Armagan from Turkey :) from Middle East Technical University I have a little gs500e 98" orange, when i bought this bike it looks very terrible (i will put some photo), whatever, my problems;
1. While starting the engine (here is cold reigon temprature is 00-10c these days), firts 5-10minutes from carb side i have some sound like a short bird (maybe 1ms) scream. and pistons have very noise, i noticed that they are locked sometimes but after engine is warmed up there is no problem with these.
2. When bike is on low RPM i cannot get any accelaration on first gear on taking off.Like ,although i turn my throttle no gas runs into engine but sometimes and after progressive and high rpm using its more often. sound is very raucous at these times but when i throttle more very quickly engine goes normal.
3. After some progressive drive in high RPM like 20 min, when bike is on the idle i get some noise from the engine like hitting a big stone to another very scary sound to me :)
but in the High RPM i cannot notice any different noise or power loss but in low rpm and in the idle engine has no stablitiy and no good sound and no good performance
i will do something in this month
1. i will check cyclinder head
2. i will clean up carb
but third problem is very scary one because although sound is not loud as normally heard, very powerful not like a little piece of metal parts like a big rock hit the wall but no vibration more in the engine while this happening
Thanks for all sorry about bad english
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
<snip>
P.S. You English is fine, by the way. :) You should see the "English" of some of the wizards here on the board who are from the United States. :)
<snip>
Hey - I resemble that remark ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
Hi Armagan,
Welcome to our GS500 world. :)
I met a man from Istanbul several years ago and he sold me some model toy taxicabs of old black and yellow Istanbul Ford taxis. Very cool. :)
Thanks yeah i will be here forerever :)
:)
i remenber this cabs for cars my favourite is FORD for Motorbikes GS500e :)
i hope some of you come to Turkey we ride together :)
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
About your bike, I have several questions:
How many miles on the bike?
40.000KM
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
If you unscrew the oil dipstick, what does the oil look like? Smell like? Any white creamy stuff in the oil (that would be water)? Does it smell burned? It it translucent or opaque in color?
i change my oil about 250km ago. two days after my replacement its turn to black again but on the light it looks light very very dark a little gold color
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
Have you ever checked the valve adjustment on the engine?
no not yet but i will check the shims and oil tunnel
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
The noises you describe are not sounding good, though one noise that is common on the GS500 is camshaft end play -- where the cam moves sideways in its mountings and makes a "banging noise." But that is in the top of the engine and is very easy to find.
yea some noise coming from about the head like rapidly working clock but i know it isnt a problem i heard this sound when i watch some gs500 videos
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
Is the noise only when the engine is COLD?
And it goes away when it warms up?
on the contrary this hitting rock sound comes when idle after engine working 20 or 30 min in high rpm drive (not always in high rpm but progressive drive)
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
That could be valve adjustment -- you could have very loose valve lash.
Or it could be piston slap, where the cylinder bores are worn due to poor oil maintenance.
i hope the problem is not the piston or the cylinder problem beacause is hard to find here and very expensive :(
and i always check my oil level when i start to ride but even i changed it after one or two drive its color turn to dark gold color.
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
It also sounds like that bird squeal you mentioned could be an air intake leak. Maybe one of your black rubber carburetor boots is cracked or loose and is leaking air? That could cause engine damage due to running excessively lean, which would describe some of the other problems you are having with the bike.
There also could be a vacuum leak from a vacuum hose.
yeah i think so because it comes first start and when i give throttle very very slowly and touch to carb, as the sound come, carb move on the z axis so little so maybe its beacuse of backfire of cold engine so the leak from carb pistons or a thing make this sound
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
Your running and idle problems are likely carbs related, probably from dirt and sludge in the jets and tiny fuel passages that need to be cleaned.
certainly, because ex owners of bike do not give atention to this baby :( so i think neither carb cleaning nor any checking done before
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
Your noises when riding can also be related to very loose chain adjustment -- there could be chain slippage around the engine-mounted countershaft sprocket that you are haring below you. If the adjustment is very loose, it could be very noisy and make "banging" noises you describe.
ok
as i said till today none did some check or cleaning or repairing adjustment to this bike :( but i will because i love i worship gs500 :)
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
There are ways to check all of this, but let's start with more detailed symptoms from you to help us figure it out.
It could be a lot of things.
Tell us more and let's see what we can figure out.
Please be very careful riding this until you fix it!
Best wishes and welcome again, my friend.
Yours,
Trwhouse
thanks very much for your attention i am very happy now because i find this site and i dont feel alone :P thanks again very much... :D
Quote from: Trwhouse on March 10, 2009, 07:59:44 AM
P.S. You English is fine, by the way. :) You should see the "English" of some of the wizards here on the board who are from the United States. :)
:) i know english just as tell what i want to say but you are right because lots of time i do not understand anything although i am a good english reader of our school books (our university education language is english :) )
I agree that your strange high pitched noise is probably a vacuum leak if it is coming from the carbs. I would also propose a possible second cause: a loose bolt. My headlight is held in place by bolts with lock washers and the lock washers vibrate to make a very loud high pitched sound right around 2000 RPM. If you have a loose fastener, you might get a similar noise. I only say this because the noise my headlight makes is very bird like and it drove me nuts for a few days before I figured out what it was. I finally found it by just touching all the bolts up front until I touched the loose one and the noise went away. Just a thought...
Is he saying he has to rev the piss out of it to get it to run decent? Dirty pilot jets? Kids throwing rocks at his bike? :icon_razz:
Quote from: fred on March 10, 2009, 10:19:15 AM
I agree that your strange high pitched noise is probably a vacuum leak if it is coming from the carbs. I would also propose a possible second cause: a loose bolt. My headlight is held in place by bolts with lock washers and the lock washers vibrate to make a very loud high pitched sound right around 2000 RPM. If you have a loose fastener, you might get a similar noise. I only say this because the noise my headlight makes is very bird like and it drove me nuts for a few days before I figured out what it was. I finally found it by just touching all the bolts up front until I touched the loose one and the noise went away. Just a thought...
yea maybe but there are many missed bolts and screws on bike also i will check them all and get new ones or replace them thanks your interest :thumb:
I believe he's saying:
The engine is noisy while the bike is warming up. Very short high-pitch sounds and what he describes as piston noise (maybe like a ticking clock). I'm not sure what he means that they're "locked" sometimes, but it goes away once it's warmed up.
Once it's warm, it seems to run fine.
But, when he pulls out in first, he has to "rev the piss out of it". Otherwise, there's no power and a lot of engine noise. He doesn't it describe the noise very well, maybe more of the same idling noise or maybe loud banging.
If he drives around at high RPM for a while and then returns to idle, the engine makes a loud banging sound and runs like dung. That's mainly what he's upset about.
He believes the carb boots may be leaking and causing the high-pitch noise (while waiting for the bike to warm up). If he slowly throttles up to the point where the noise occurs, he can feel the carbs move up or down.
He hasn't checked the valves yet, and the previous owners neglected the bike's maintenance.
He's a college student on a low budget, so it's probably gonna take him a while to get around to everything or afford parts.
Quote from: wladziu on March 10, 2009, 05:07:43 PM
I believe he's saying:
The engine is noisy while the bike is warming up. Very short high-pitch sounds and what he describes as piston noise (maybe like a ticking clock). I'm not sure what he means that they're "locked" sometimes, but it goes away once it's warmed up.
Once it's warm, it seems to run fine.
But, when he pulls out in first, he has to "rev the piss out of it". Otherwise, there's no power and a lot of engine noise. He doesn't it describe the noise very well, maybe more of the same idling noise or maybe loud banging.
If he drives around at high RPM for a while and then returns to idle, the engine makes a loud banging sound and runs like dung. That's mainly what he's upset about.
He believes the carb boots may be leaking and causing the high-pitch noise (while waiting for the bike to warm up). If he slowly throttles up to the point where the noise occurs, he can feel the carbs move up or down.
He hasn't checked the valves yet, and the previous owners neglected the bike's maintenance.
He's a college student on a low budget, so it's probably gonna take him a while to get around to everything or afford parts.
thanks :) yeah general problems are these. "the engine makes a loud banging sound and runs like dung" i try to explain the noise but my english do not give me a chance after high RPM drive on the idle i get some noise from deep of my engine like :) "hitting a big rock to another rock" the sound is exactly like that :) and it is no rythmic unstable sometimes one per second sometimes there is sound in 1-2 minute so sometimes not stop hmm the sound is not short more then a clock ticking a bit long and as i said not stable nor rythmic and idle sound is sometimes good sometimes bad not stable low rpm - normal rpm - low rpm- normal rpm - low rpm- normal rpm - low rpm - normal rpm like that :)
"the previous owners neglected the bike's maintenance. " not only maintance but also engine :)
thanks all guys answering me
Spray your choke cable on both ends with penetrating oil like WD-40. That will make sure your choke is not getting stuck. Make sure your drive chain is not too tight. If it is too tight, or stretched in one spot more than the rest, it will make a K-K-K sound at times, especially when slowing down. If you think you have an air leak between the carburetors and the engine, wrap some duct tape around the rubber tubes and see if it helps. Rock on rock sound cannot be good, EVER! That sounds to me like an engine bearing that is about to fail. That would be followed by a SCREEEE, followed by silence!
Quote from: bill14224 on March 11, 2009, 06:52:44 PM
Spray your choke cable on both ends with penetrating oil like WD-40. That will make sure your choke is not getting stuck. Make sure your drive chain is not too tight. If it is too tight, or stretched in one spot more than the rest, it will make a K-K-K sound at times, especially when slowing down. If you think you have an air leak between the carburetors and the engine, wrap some duct tape around the rubber tubes and see if it helps. Rock on rock sound cannot be good, EVER! That sounds to me like an engine bearing that is about to fail. That would be followed by a SCREEEE, followed by silence!
yea maybe camshaft bearings because this rock on rock sound comes only idle or camshaft chain maybe i think there is no adjustment since 6 years :)
camshaft chain is self-adjusting, so no worry there. It should take 5000 km for your oil to get dirty. If it's getting dirty fast, there must be a lot of dirt in the engine from past neglect which would mean it probably needs to be rebuilt. Then again, when I was a kid my friend bought an old Honda 50cc mini bike and it had GRAVEL in the crankcase. Despite this, the engine lasted about 3 more years until it caught fire when the carb started leaking onto the hot engine when we were both riding on it together!
Here is an online service manual to help you:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/7178815/Suzuki-GS500-Full-Service-Manual
Quote from: bill14224 on March 14, 2009, 12:43:04 AM
camshaft chain is self-adjusting, so no worry there. It should take 5000 km for your oil to get dirty. If it's getting dirty fast, there must be a lot of dirt in the engine from past neglect which would mean it probably needs to be rebuilt. Then again, when I was a kid my friend bought an old Honda 50cc mini bike and it had GRAVEL in the crankcase. Despite this, the engine lasted about 3 more years until it caught fire when the carb started leaking onto the hot engine when we were both riding on it together!
Here is an online service manual to help you:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/7178815/Suzuki-GS500-Full-Service-Manual
many thanks
i will check them soon
i will put some photos
yeah i m here again
Last two days i checked i noticed something
1. i check my valves and shims
R(ight)-IN(take) has 0.04mm space,
R-EX has 0.13mm space.
L-IN has 0.04mm,
L-EX has 0.10mm space,
0.03mm , 0.08mm clearence right?
after i cleaned my carb here comes some problem :)
i cleaned my carb (very dirty :technical:) and i checked the other things and put them together i
started my engine and wow rpm went to sun 6-7k. when i throttled , engine did not come to idle , stay where i throttle.
i thought the carb piston was stuck i removed air box and looked my carb pistons there was normal and
i checked my choke there is no problem i checked all cable there is no problem. first start it running normal on the idle but when i throttle, it acts like choke cable pulled and do not return to idle it stay where i throttle
as i told when i removed my air box because of carb take air easily this symptom decrease. i think this is due to rich mixture but why this mixture is rich
no problem with vacuum system
no problem with cables
no problem with carb pistons
no problem with idle screw
and i thought after my cleaning the mixture became rich and i set my mixture screw there is no difference
by the way,
i realized my bird sound coming from carb is because of the evacuation pipe of the vacuum while right one has covered by rubber left one do not have rubber, it covered by a thing that ex owner do. so it act like whistle. this pipes give air often.
why these pipes are closed
here comes another problem
when i removed my air box to check my carb pistons i recognized the left carb spray white smoke from the air holes(channels). carb does it very often. i think its because of my exh. shims and backfiring but only left one
another problem the right side of my engine (rotor side) give sound like ("ticket" "ticket" "ticket" very often)
i am really confused i really need help :(
any ideas?
Wow... It would be nice if I could see all this on a video or something and, nothing personal, your English was a little clearer - not that yours is bad, but I'm not sure I get all your symptoms here.
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 07:59:23 AM
1. i check my valves and shims
R(ight)-IN(take) has 0.04mm space,
R-EX has 0.13mm space.
L-IN has 0.04mm,
L-EX has 0.10mm space,
0.03mm , 0.08mm clearence right?
yes
did you measure with the shim tool on or something? That's a lot of lot of space...
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 07:59:23 AM
i cleaned my carb (very dirty :technical:) and i checked the other things and put them together i
started my engine and wow rpm went to sun 6-7k. when i throttled , engine did not come to idle , stay where i throttle.
i thought the carb piston was stuck i removed air box and looked my carb pistons there was normal and
i checked my choke there is no problem i checked all cable there is no problem. first start it running normal on the idle but when i throttle, it acts like choke cable pulled and do not return to idle it stay where i throttle
as i told when i removed my air box because of carb take air easily this symptom decrease. i think this is due to rich mixture but why this mixture is rich
no problem with vacuum system
no problem with cables
no problem with carb pistons
no problem with idle screw
and i thought after my cleaning the mixture became rich and i set my mixture screw there is no difference
by the way,
i realized my bird sound coming from carb is because of the evacuation pipe of the vacuum while right one has covered by rubber left one do not have rubber, it covered by a thing that ex owner do. so it act like whistle. but why my carb evacuate often the air from this pipes and way this pipes are closed
If you're hearing a whistle from the carb, by definition you have a vacuum problem. The high idle is symptomatic of a vacuum problem. Have you checked very, very carefully to be sure you have the carbs in the boots from the airbox solidly, that you have an o-ring between the intake boots and the engine, and that this is all sealed?
What jets are in?
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 07:59:23 AM
when i removed my air box to check my carb pistons i recognized the left carb spray white smoke from the air holes(channels). carb does it very often. i think its because of my exh. shims and backfiring but only left one
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 07:59:23 AM
another problem the right side of my engine (rotor side) give sound like ("ticket" "ticket" "ticket" very often)
Have you taken the cover off to see if there is anything in there?
i measue it by shim tool and only ex shims have space others are normal ex shim cause the backfiring? o is it a big problem or only loud.
-----------------------------
If you're hearing a whistle from the carb, by definition you have a vacuum problem. The high idle is symptomatic of a vacuum problem. Have you checked very, very carefully to be sure you have the carbs in the boots from the airbox solidly, that you have an o-ring between the intake boots and the engine, and that this is all sealed?
What jets are in?
-------------------------------------
not high idle when it starts idle is normal but when i throttle rpm rise and dont go dowm stay where i throttle
stock jet is on it
whistle beacuse of leaking cover of little evacuation pipe on the carb just near the vacuum cover
and why this pipe flow air why evacuate the air?
as i said why tihs pipes are closed by a rubber oh my godness. :)
i loose a very very smal oring i couldn't find where i must put it oh my god this can be beacuse of it :)
and why the only left carb spray white gray smoke from air channel it looks like a problem engine pistons dont take the air - fuel mixture pushes it back
i recheck everything about carb pistonvacuums but there is no problem but the oring can made a problem exactly where it must be put
oring is really small :)
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 01:27:27 PM
i measue it by shim tool and only ex shims have space others are normal ex shim cause the backfiring? o is it a big problem or only loud.
[moved from below]
and why the only left carb spray white gray smoke from air channel it looks like a problem engine pistons dont take the air - fuel mixture pushes it back
Big problem. Means your valves are going to be off, and eventually that will be the end of things. I just can't grasp how it got to be THAT far off.
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 01:27:27 PM
whistle beacuse of leaking cover of little evacuation pipe on the carb just near the vacuum cover
and why this pipe flow air why evacuate the air?
as i said why tihs pipes are closed by a rubber oh my godness. :)
i loose a very very smal oring i couldn't find where i must put it oh my god this can be beacuse of it :)
Bingo - that rubber o ring is the answer. Having leftover parts when working on a vehicle is a baaaad thing... :D
Here is a link to a Fiche for your carbs http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs500ew-1998-carburetor/o/m6058sch246854
The carbs operate with a vacuum, hence the diaphragms. I don't know if yours are the same as mine (04) but there should be one side where a rubber cap blocks the vent and a hose should go from the other to somewhere else, I think -#42 on the fiche(?).
Quote from: lawman on April 01, 2009, 02:40:32 PM
Big problem. Means your valves are going to be off, and eventually that will be the end of things. I just can't grasp how it got to be THAT far off.
i will replace these ex shims but not have priority because here Turkey there is no service i must buy it from abroad so it will take a long time to delivered my adress.
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 01:27:27 PM
whistle beacuse of leaking cover of little evacuation pipe on the carb just near the vacuum cover
and why this pipe flow air why evacuate the air?
as i said why tihs pipes are closed by a rubber oh my godness. :)
my gs 500 97" so i guess 04 carb on it i am still do not understand my these pipes (top of carb) on the carb is closed
Quote from: lawman on April 01, 2009, 02:40:32 PM
Quote from: bladebj on April 01, 2009, 01:27:27 PM
i loose a very very smal oring i couldn't find where i must put it oh my god this can be beacuse of it :)
Bingo - that rubber o ring is the answer. Having leftover parts when working on a vehicle is a baaaad thing... :D
Here is a link to a Fiche for your carbs http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs500ew-1998-carburetor/o/m6058sch246854
The carbs operate with a vacuum, hence the diaphragms. I don't know if yours are the same as mine (04) but there should be one side where a rubber cap blocks the vent and a hose should go from the other to somewhere else, I think -#42 on the fiche(?).
hmm all of one can be i will check them soon
an oring can cause such a problem and how it cause the problem :)
i guess unbalanced richmixture from main jet because only throttle it is a problem idle there is everything normal.
Yea i got diaphrams so there is no problem with them no leak and carb pistons work good there is no stuck
thanks man many many thanks it is hard to understand my english :)
go here
http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs500ew-1998/o/m6058
go to the carburetor diagram
you need to have piece # 14
yes, there are 2 different items listed in the diagram
one is a Vacuum cap on top of Piece #6(a vac block off used on many autos)
and the other one is a very small o-ring
you need both items on both carbs
the slides (#7: VALVE, PISTON) need a vacuum to overcome the spring pressure holding them down
I hope this helps
Quote from: werase643 on April 02, 2009, 10:49:31 AM
go here
http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs500ew-1998/o/m6058
go to the carburetor diagram
you need to have piece # 14
yes, there are 2 different items listed in the diagram
one is a Vacuum cap on top of Piece #6(a vac block off used on many autos)
and the other one is a very small o-ring
you need both items on both carbs
the slides (#7: VALVE, PISTON) need a vacuum to overcome the spring pressure holding them down
I hope this helps
thanks for answer
the other parts of carb is ok just an oring missing
i will check it but yea i think circle one (#14 circle one on the schematic) is missing but why this pipe is covered with an oring (#14 top on the schematic) in other words why carb has these pipes, they did the pipes and after they closed them ?:) maybe you explain but i still cant see the picture.
The item marked 14 in the top schematic is really a cap. It is used to cap the vacuum port on top of the carb. The vacuum port on top of the carb is there so you can attach a vacuum gauge for carb synchronizing . (I think #14 in the top should have been labeled #10)
And, yes, you will need both items (o-ring and cap)
oh god i see thanks for reply
so exactly this cause a problem like i mentioned wow it's really important oring
yes very important
anyone ever replace that o-ring w/ Permatex, btw?
by the way as an adittion to these problems i disturb the mixture screws that mentioned in the manual "do not disturb them their setting is done by special tools"
how can i set them default again
is there any certain turns to set them for example close them and turn it two round?
2.5 turns out is a good starting point
Quote from: werase643 on April 03, 2009, 05:11:04 PM
2.5 turns out is a good starting point
oh thanks really many thanks
i fixed oring problem and checked everything again put carb together and plug it but there is some different problem when throttle now dont stay there but return very slowly like
RPM= 1k->(Throttling)-> 5k-> (returning) 4.5k 4k 3.5k 3k 2k ... and my engine run very badly i always hear clock sound click not valve noise it comes from cylinders and not rthymic very loudly
my exhaust smoke is black and my exhaust banging
when i remove air box carb takes more air and this problem (slow returning above) decrease but still there and while i look at holes of carb where air box removed i saw fire in the carb when i throttle suddenly.
carb always blows and sometimes smoke comes from carb where air box removed side but i really dissapoint i guess i cant ride it well again even i fix carb (maybe this sound and unstable running of engine due to carb) i cannot solve my noisy engine not noise but also clicking poor idle and some other noies i scare my carb blows up fire dancing in it :(
futhermore
i noticed that although i cleaned everything carefully the under the vacuum cover and near the diaghram turned to black and looking very dirty
my engine do not take air-fuel mixture and push its back?
im getting crazy
Quote from: bladebj on April 05, 2009, 01:59:40 PM
i fixed oring problem and checked everything again put carb together and plug it but there is some different problem when throttle now dont stay there but return very slowly like
This can be fixed by readjusting your throttle cable. Loosen the nut on the carb. I've never figured out the correct adjustment for this, but I know it can be loose and still work, but too tight and the throttle won't return.
Quote from: bladebj on April 05, 2009, 01:59:40 PM
RPM= 1k->(Throttling)-> 5k-> (returning) 4.5k 4k 3.5k 3k 2k ... and my engine run very badly i always hear clock sound click not valve noise it comes from cylinders and not rthymic very loudly
The first part may be a function of the sticking throttle. If, not, you have a hanging idle which is generally a vacuum problem.
take out your spark plugs and look in the hole. If you have the carbs off look in the intake. This noise could be very very bad.
Quote from: bladebj on April 05, 2009, 01:59:40 PM
my exhaust smoke is black and my exhaust banging
when i remove air box carb takes more air and this problem (slow returning above) decrease but still there and while i look at holes of carb where air box removed i saw fire in the carb when i throttle suddenly.
carb always blows and sometimes smoke comes from carb where air box removed side but i really dissapoint i guess i cant ride it well again even i fix carb (maybe this sound and unstable running of engine due to carb) i cannot solve my noisy engine not noise but also clicking poor idle and some other noies i scare my carb blows up fire dancing in it :(
I still think you need to get your valves adjusted before you even consider addressing any of this. I'm betting the valves fix a lot of it.
Quote from: bladebj on April 05, 2009, 01:59:40 PM
i noticed that although i cleaned everything carefully the under the vacuum cover and near the diaghram turned to black and looking very dirty
my engine do not take air-fuel mixture and push its back?
im getting crazy
:confused: Lost me.
vacuum cover?
Get the valve clearance fixed. Look in the cylinders through the plugs and/or intake. Loosen the nut on the throttle. Then tell me what the symptoms are.
----------------------
confused Lost me.
vacuum cover?
-----------------------
yeah vacuum cover and around the diaghram are black and dirty really interesting
me and my friend cant understand he rebuild and Husaberg engine but cannot solve this problems really im am very sad know :(
vacuum cover?
In the carb?
Valve cover?
I don't know what you're referring to here...
Quote from: lawman on April 06, 2009, 09:21:52 AM
vacuum cover?
In the carb?
Valve cover?
I don't know what you're referring to here...
http://www.bikebandit.com/suzuki-motorcycle-gs500ew-1998-carburetor/o/m6058sch246854
under the #6
and #8 around
Have you looked very carefully to see if there is a hole in the diaphragm?
Quote from: lawman on April 06, 2009, 11:40:39 AM
Have you looked very carefully to see if there is a hole in the diaphragm?
yea i checked it very carefully maybe from carb piston or carbpiston and the needle connection this weekend i will try and check more and will add photos to clear comments
thanks man for your interest
ok after some works i found new things
First i realized my left piston did not run the reason why i test the piston is while my friend turns the mixture screw of right one engine sound is changing but while he turns the left mixture screw there is no change on the engine so while idling i removed left spark plug cable engine didnt stop but when i removed right one engine died BINGO my left piston did not run
i tested it more when i pull choke a little left one began to run but not probarly banging and loud
i throttled to 5k so again the left began to run
so i decided the left pilot jet has problem i opened my carb and with guitar string i cleaned the hole again if problem is not any dirty in the pilot jets what could be?
First make sure the plug is sparking (take it out, lay it on the engine, and hit the starter. Should be a fat blue spark. If not, change it.), then test the compression (w/o a compression tester, you can pull the plugs off, put a rag in the plughole, and hit the starter. If the rag shoots across the room, that should be satisfactory). Start there.
Quote from: lawman on April 14, 2009, 09:53:24 AM
First make sure the plug is sparking (take it out, lay it on the engine, and hit the starter. Should be a fat blue spark. If not, change it.), then test the compression (w/o a compression tester, you can pull the plugs off, put a rag in the plughole, and hit the starter. If the rag shoots across the room, that should be satisfactory). Start there.
i checked it sparking and also change the spark plug left to right (the left plug was dark black right plug was orange and white ) there is no problem with spark or cable as i mentioned it running when i throttle or pull the choke cable(both situation not running proparly running badly) only it did not run while idling
the right has no problem it is running well.
i also check the vacuum balance there is no problem the carb is balanced and clean now.
i set needle one notch higher than stock
it looks like my pilot jet has a problem but i did that all i can do about it
do a compression test and post the results, please
i did the rag test and it satisfy me and my friend i did for both left and right they behave equal .
Before i cleaned the carb, there is no problem like that :(
i know there are only identical methods ( checking vacuum leak, carb balance, compression, cables, hoses, sparks, mixture, carb piston, orings, caps, neddles )to describe what problem is i did all of them carefully and without a doubt
i am not sure my english will satisfy what i want to describe but i will try
when i throttle left one start to run i understand it by removing the right spark plug cable engine didn't die (while idling when i removed the right one engine died) but banging exhaust and running badly
i am throttling-->
the banging of exhaust is due to fuel coming without burning from right cylinder whose cable removed explode in the exhaust because we saw the fire end of the exhaust
again i am throttling-->
i removed the cable of the left one and there is no banging or bad running everthing ok and sound good
no fire no banging right one working good
so our theory= while the right cable removed fuel from the right piston explode in the exhaust because there is enough fuel on the right
when we removed the left cable no banging in the exhaust because there is no fuel from the left
the left piston either lack of fuel or there is no fuel
left one cannot take enough fuel and it is because of pilot jet not due to vacuum leak or main jet
because hole of choke mixture is end of the carb do not touch the vacuum or butterfly system, directly goes to engine so when we pull choke it began to run
or why the problem is not due to the vacuum system is while throttling it began to run again but the reason why running badly is there no stable or good mixture pilot jets providing a stable fuel when this fuel did not come to mixture so mixture is probably poor while only left one running my engine behave like out of fuel again
another reason why i have doubt about the pilot jet of left when we turn the mixture screw of left one (although we make the mixture rich) left piston do not give any response
i hope you understand what i mean thanks your attention and patient sorry again for my bad english
I HAVE NEVER HEARD OF THE RAG TEST
compression test?
valve clearances?
read up on synchronizing carbs.....
if you open throttle(twist right hand) does it run better or worse?
does it run on 2 cyl at higher RPM or still just one?
Quote from: lawman on April 14, 2009, 09:53:24 AM
First make sure the plug is sparking (take it out, lay it on the engine, and hit the starter. Should be a fat blue spark. If not, change it.), then test the compression (w/o a compression tester, you can pull the plugs off, put a rag in the plughole, and hit the starter. If the rag shoots across the room, that should be satisfactory). Start there.
the rag mentioned by lawman's post
i explained how i describe the problem on earlier two posts.
the left one doesn't run while idling
when open throttle the left begin to run but very bad and loudly banging etc.
higher rpm it runs on two cylinder.
right one always runs well no problem with the right
but the left one begin to run only while throttling or choke and its sound not good working badly and loudly
valve clearances?
read up on synchronizing carbs.....
i read and clarify balancing i balanced the butterflies and checked the vacuum and my mixture screws is 2.5 turns out carb balanced and clean everything is on it my engine was running not well but running after my carb cleaning this problem ocurred
you synched your carbs with vacuum guages attached to your carbs with the bike running?
Quote from: werase643 on April 15, 2009, 09:14:57 AM
valve clearances?
Yeah, did you ever fix the valve clearances? I remember that was a major issue...
You had checked the spark and it was good.
So - your left cylinder DOES run, but only with the throttle turned? What about with the choke out? You seem convinced it's the pilot jet... Have you checked the fuel tube (metal) that comes off the fuel T that attaches to the gas tank (or the T for that matter?)? When you pull the spark plug, is it wet with gas?
What do you know about the history of this bike? Does this sound like a timing thing to anyone else? Have you checked the cam chain to be sure it's set right?
Check that carb synch thing too. you can make a poor man's sphygmometer if you have to - piece of tubing with some oil in the middle attached to both vacuum plugs.
Quote from: werase643 on April 15, 2009, 10:26:18 AM
you synched your carbs with vacuum guages attached to your carbs with the bike running?
yea i did the sync no problem with it
Quote from: lawman on April 15, 2009, 01:15:20 PM
Quote from: werase643 on April 15, 2009, 09:14:57 AM
valve clearances?
Yeah, did you ever fix the valve clearances? I remember that was a major issue...
You had checked the spark and it was good.
So - your left cylinder DOES run, but only with the throttle turned? What about with the choke out? You seem convinced it's the pilot jet... Have you checked the fuel tube (metal) that comes off the fuel T that attaches to the gas tank (or the T for that matter?)? When you pull the spark plug, is it wet with gas?
What do you know about the history of this bike? Does this sound like a timing thing to anyone else? Have you checked the cam chain to be sure it's set right?
Check that carb synch thing too. you can make a poor man's sphygmometer if you have to - piece of tubing with some oil in the middle attached to both vacuum plugs.
yeah valve clreance done
throttle turned and
choke out the left one begins to run
just does not run while idling.
i checked the cable and spark plugs they are sparking good there no problem with eletricity of spark plugs
and not wettiming is good no problem with timing i checked cam chain and the other timing issue by looking the manual its all done
also i checked float levels both is good
i think as i mentioned above it's due to pilot jet of left but why my left one do not take fuel from left carb pilots i clenaed the pilot and its condition good.
Hmm.. sounds like you have a pretty good understanding of what's going on, and it sounds like the left pilot jet to me too. I would think if the timing is off because of the timing chain, the left cylinder wouldn't run with choke, and it does. And the right cylinder wouldn't run well, and it does. That is if I understand him right.
Quote from: bill14224 on April 15, 2009, 04:14:03 PM
Hmm.. sounds like you have a pretty good understanding of what's going on, and it sounds like the left pilot jet to me too. I would think if the timing is off because of the timing chain, the left cylinder wouldn't run with choke, and it does. And the right cylinder wouldn't run well, and it does. That is if I understand him right.
yeah your are right man i will do some checking about my pilot jet and carb i will inform you what is going on.
thanks for your intereset
Check the t going into the carb.
What method did you use to check your float heights?
What size pilot is in there?
Before i cleaned the carb, there is no problem like that :icon_sad:
sorry to tell you this.....it's in the carbs
check the idle circuit
make sure you can blow air through the jet
make sure you can blow carb cleaner....or brake cleaner through all internal passages in the carb body
the left one is still clogged
if you blow cleaner through a port.....it has to come out another port
also i'd like to know how you synched the carbs with it running on only 1 cylinder at idle
Quote from: lawman on April 16, 2009, 05:51:35 AM
Check the t going into the carb.
What method did you use to check your float heights?
What size pilot is in there?
Quote from: lawman on April 16, 2009, 05:51:35 AM
Check the t going into the carb.
What method did you use to check your float heights?
What size pilot is in there?
the method using transparent hose.
pilots are stock
Quote from: werase643 on April 16, 2009, 10:10:25 AM
Before i cleaned the carb, there is no problem like that :icon_sad:
sorry to tell you this.....it's in the carbs
check the idle circuit
make sure you can blow air through the jet
make sure you can blow carb cleaner....or brake cleaner through all internal passages in the carb body
the left one is still clogged
if you blow cleaner through a port.....it has to come out another port
i cleaned carefully and noticed that you mentioned but i will do it again i will check again all iternal holes passages etc. yea you are right it probably still clogged
thanks for all to everybody
Quote from: werase643 on April 16, 2009, 10:11:54 AM
also i'd like to know how you synched the carbs with it running on only 1 cylinder at idle
the buddha's method i looked to a light source with butterflies (with carb) and balanced them till i see the light from both equally
your first screw up was doing something Budduh said to do.....
that is not the method for synching carbs
that is the way to get them kinda in the ballpark and has nothing to do with vacuum syncronization so that both carbs work together 50/50
Quote from: werase643 on April 16, 2009, 10:34:50 AM
your first screw up was doing something Budduh said to do.....
that is not the method for synching carbs
that is the way to get them kinda in the ballpark and has nothing to do with vacuum syncronization so that both carbs work together 50/50
ok let me know how to sync vacuums while only one cylinder running as ; if this is not a vacuum sync.
http://771doug.netfirms.com/synch_page.html
with one of these
http://771doug.netfirms.com/carbbalancer.gif
or make one using lots of tubing and oil.....
or get 2 Vac gauges to compare the carbs
**** found with a quick search*****
Quote from: werase643 on April 16, 2009, 12:22:05 PM
http://771doug.netfirms.com/synch_page.html
with one of these
http://771doug.netfirms.com/carbbalancer.gif
or make one using lots of tubing and oil.....
or get 2 Vac gauges to compare the carbs
**** found with a quick search*****
man i know how i can find the information thanks your reply but problem as you said while just one cylinder is running how i can sync them my question was that
maybe i cant figure out the sync theory
i dont know if this has ever been mentioned or not i didnt read every post but how are the intake boots on the motor? and have you try to run the bike on prime instead of on or res.?
you can not synch the carbs with the bike running on one cylinder
you have to have the bike running fair before you can have it running good
Quote from: joshr08 on April 17, 2009, 05:28:26 AM
i dont know if this has ever been mentioned or not i didnt read every post but how are the intake boots on the motor? and have you try to run the bike on prime instead of on or res.?
intake boots are checked and good and there is no problem with the fuel in the carb. fuel comes to carb without a problem and float levels are good. thanks.
Quote from: werase643 on April 17, 2009, 06:49:37 AM
you can not synch the carbs with the bike running on one cylinder
you have to have the bike running fair before you can have it running good
ok that was my misunderstood :) ok thanks
The 2002 GS I bought a week ago has a thud sound below 2-3k :(
There is a thud, then the rpm briefly drops less than 100rpm. Seems sporadic.
Does this sound like cam knock or starter clutch bolts?
Can't believe this!! Now this bike is probably out of commission along with my 95, which this was supposed to replace.
Quote from: HPP8140 on July 23, 2014, 08:47:36 PM
The 2002 GS I bought a week ago has a thud sound below 2-3k :(
There is a thud, then the rpm briefly drops less than 100rpm. Seems sporadic.
Does this sound like cam knock or starter clutch bolts?
Can't believe this!! Now this bike is probably out of commission along with my 95, which this was supposed to replace.
Dude - you decided to drag a 5 yr old thread back to life - OK fine, this is GSTwin after all, where threads never die ...
How much of a thud - and below 2k when accelerating ? steady or decelerating.
And Who the Fruck rides a GS below 2k rpm ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Below 2k meaning, at idle in traffic, but goes away if I rev above 3k or so.
At the moment, it's a small thud, seems like it's coming from left, lower side. When it happens the rpm briefly drops a little.
Sounds like something hitting, but I can't tell if the thud is also the engine stalling for that brief moment.
Misfire type ? That may be the Carber-nator.
The left side has alter-ma-nator, start-ernator and the whatchamcall it ... the goats generata-manator.
I am inclined to think you're losing that cyl every once in a while ... maybe carb ...
Left carb has the vacuum fitting ...
See if you can create that noise by spraying wd40.
Cool.
Buddha.
My bike did this a couple times 2 years ago when it was decending in revs with the clutch pulled in. It would happen around 2k and sounded like a thud as you said. I think it was just a misfire from bad mixture. You might want to adjust your pilot screws to change your mixture at idle/low rpm.
Ok, so I just caught that there is same post in thread as well... I'll quote below what I typed/linked in other thread. It sounds like Buddha and Bomb are on the same track I am with your issue.
Quote from: BockinBboy on July 24, 2014, 11:28:31 AM
HPP, your issue seems like lean misfire. I had it on my '04 when everything was stock.
Here is the link to the first thread I originally saw it come up on here, but there have been a couple since. So check that out.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=66633.msg801720#msg801720
:cheers:
- Bboy
- Bboy
Quote from: BockinBboy on July 24, 2014, 11:32:07 AM
Ok, so I just caught that there is same post in thread as well... I'll quote below what I typed/linked in other thread. It sounds like Buddha and Bomb are on the same track I am with your issue.
Quote from: BockinBboy on July 24, 2014, 11:28:31 AM
HPP, your issue seems like lean misfire. I had it on my '04 when everything was stock.
Here is the link to the first thread I originally saw it come up on here, but there have been a couple since. So check that out.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=66633.msg801720#msg801720
:cheers:
- Bboy
- Bboy
Yep! That makes 3 of us!
Nice, I have a few things to check that don't automatically mean motor is toast haha. Can't thank you all enough.
The PO mentioned cleaning the carbs. The plugs are stark white. I know they run lean, but that's whitest I've seen plugs on all my GS500's
I don't have a service manual for the 2002 3 circuit carbs.
What is the float height range?
Buddha, are you still doing carbs?
Quote from: HPP8140 on July 24, 2014, 01:47:18 PM
I don't have a service manual for the 2002 3 circuit carbs.
What is the float height range?
Buddha, are you still doing carbs?
Buddha is the carb-er-ma-nator.
OK you caught me. I am doing carbs. You can just clean the suckers and rejet.
Float height - top of the bowl. If its lean and ashy white, its the idle reading right ? Yea you can lean misfire or spark knock yourself into those thuds.
Cool.
Buddha.
Looks like the mixture screws have been tampered with.
Buddha,
1. what do you mean by is the idle reading right? It idles ok...doesn't hang.
2. what is stock for the mixture screws? which way is rich and lean? which way should I turn to fix this issue?
3. the float height is difficult to set on these 3 circuit carbs. The floats sink easily when I turn the carbs over. My 95 held it's position better and the float needle spring was longer. Is this normal for the 3 circuit carbs? Are the float needles interchangeable? Any tips on setting the float height?
Thanks.
[attachment deleted by admin]
Read the whole sentence man -
If its lean and ashy white, its the idle reading right ? = Your plug reading was after you had it @ idle a few sec ??
Air screws - unscrew to be richer. 2.5 is stock, you're likely @ 3+ - dont bother going back to stock, turn it out 1/4 turn. See if it gets better. Or fine, screw it all the way to lightly seated counting the turns as you do, then out the same number + 1/4.
Floats - top of the bowl, for now Just check it, dont change it unless one carb id different. If its the left carb, change that to the same as other one.
Dont put any older parts in an 01-02 carb. They look like they may fit, but in reality, no.
Cool.
Buddha.
I found and fixed the following issues as I pulled the bike apart. The previous owner said he cleaned the carbs, changed spark plugs, and calls himself a retired US marine mechanic.
1. float bowls were installed backwards.
2. The screw that holds the float on the right carb was loose, screwed in half-way, causing the float assembly to move around.
3. The ON and Out to carb petcock hoses are switched. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67287.msg815239#msg815239 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=67287.msg815239#msg815239)
4. Verified the jets and mixture screws.
Stock jets: 17.5, 60, 127.5
Mixture screws:
Left: 3-1/4 turns out
Right: 3 turns out
I set them both to 3-1/4 and turned them an extra 1/4 out.
Also replaced the spark plugs.
I have ridden ~150 miles without issue.
Thanks for all the help.
Grrrrr...it did it again leaving work. What a waste of money.
Could it be a sticky exhaust valve? I checked the valves when I first brought the bike home and the left exhaust valve was extremely tight...dropped down 3 sizes to get clearance. The bucket still turns freely.
Did some more testing. I can reproduce the misfire by holding throttle between 1500-2000 rpm
Is it possible that your floats are actually set too high (fuel level too low)? This would affect your mixture down low quite a bit. The fact that the screw was loose on the one float just makes me concerned that the height was messed with... As always, check with the clear tube from the carb drain with the petcock on prime.
If that's right on (should be level with float bowl gasket), then try another quarter turn out.
It's also possible that your intake valves are tight and you are experiencing a backfire through the carbs.
Float level was correct around 13mm.
It rather seems the opposite....engine runs lumpy, boggy, rich from 1500-2000.
First, let me correct the fuel hose routing, then check everything again.
Quote from: HPP8140 on July 28, 2014, 06:59:44 PM
Float level was correct around 13mm.
It rather seems the opposite....engine runs lumpy, boggy, rich from 1500-2000.
First, let me correct the fuel hose routing, then check everything again.
Who rides this thing between 1500 and 2000. I set it to idle @1700. 3k minimum.
Rich @1500 but OK @ idle ?
Cool.
Buddha.
Yeah...never ride below 3000 rpm. Just slip the clutch up to that point. I thought you were talking about misfires with the clutch pulled in or revving slowly in neutral.
Quote from: The Buddha on July 28, 2014, 07:05:08 PM
Quote from: HPP8140 on July 28, 2014, 06:59:44 PM
Float level was correct around 13mm.
It rather seems the opposite....engine runs lumpy, boggy, rich from 1500-2000.
First, let me correct the fuel hose routing, then check everything again.
Who rides this thing between 1500 and 2000. I set it to idle @1700. 3k minimum.
Rich @1500 but OK @ idle ?
Cool.
Buddha.
Well, sometimes rpm is in that range:
1. warm-up. lowering choke
2. traffic
Yes, it idles well since idle is set below 1500 according to spec. Engine gets boggy, I think that is rich, and misfires somewhere between 1500-2000. At least now I know how to reproduce.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on July 28, 2014, 07:12:54 PM
Yeah...never ride below 3000 rpm. Just slip the clutch up to that point. I thought you were talking about misfires with the clutch pulled in or revving slowly in neutral.
I live near DC Metro with plenty of traffic. It's common to barely crack the throttle above idle (1500-2000) slipping clutch creeping along in traffic.
One of the float needles is also worn. I'll replace both, correctly route the petcock hoses, then I'm hoping it's just a matter of playing with the mixture screws.
Well, at least now I can confirm it's not parts hitting and can just ride the bike without as much fear until I continue working to fix.
How do you slip the clutch at just 1500-2000 rpm? I'd like to see that...
Quote from: bombsquad83 on July 30, 2014, 09:03:42 AM
How do you slip the clutch at just 1500-2000 rpm? I'd like to see that...
Just barely crack throttle, hold it there and slip clutch/adjust throttle as needed :icon_confused:. If it matters, I often skip downshifting to 1st when stopped and start in 2nd gear.
I love playing the "don't put foot down" game in traffic.
Quote from: HPP8140 on July 30, 2014, 09:27:15 AM
Quote from: bombsquad83 on July 30, 2014, 09:03:42 AM
How do you slip the clutch at just 1500-2000 rpm? I'd like to see that...
Just barely crack throttle, hold it there and slip clutch/adjust throttle as needed :icon_confused:. If it matters, I often skip downshifting to 1st when stopped and start in 2nd gear.
I love playing the "don't put foot down" game in traffic.
I'm afraid you might be bogging the engine doing this. At the very least, you are making it a lot harder on yourself by not revving a little more and downshifting to 1st. 1st will allow you more control of your speed at a low speed, and a few extra revs can actually have a gyroscopic stabalizing effect to keep you upright and stable.
Quote from: bombsquad83 on July 30, 2014, 09:57:02 AM
Quote from: HPP8140 on July 30, 2014, 09:27:15 AM
Quote from: bombsquad83 on July 30, 2014, 09:03:42 AM
How do you slip the clutch at just 1500-2000 rpm? I'd like to see that...
Just barely crack throttle, hold it there and slip clutch/adjust throttle as needed :icon_confused:. If it matters, I often skip downshifting to 1st when stopped and start in 2nd gear.
I love playing the "don't put foot down" game in traffic.
I'm afraid you might be bogging the engine doing this. At the very least, you are making it a lot harder on yourself by not revving a little more and downshifting to 1st. 1st will allow you more control of your speed at a low speed, and a few extra revs can actually have a gyroscopic stabalizing effect to keep you upright and stable.
Yeah, there are so many factors all depends on speed. When stopped at light I often start in 2nd...hate that shift from 1st. In heavy traffic, I use 1st.
PROBLEM SOLVED!!
Work done:
1. replaced float needles
2. re-routed petcock hoses
3. replaced rubber cap
4. replaced a top diaphram (slightly deformed)
5. turned mixture screws out another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. This is probably what did the trick.
Thanks.
Awesome!
I've been thinking about slipping the clutch at those low Rpms you mentioned. I've found that while it doesn't come up very often, there are some situations where I do slip the clutch at around 2k rpm. I never start in 2nd though. I don't want to make it harder on myself to control the bike without bogging the engine.
Wrong thread, turns out it was a problem with carbs not engine LOL
The torque of the 2002 model makes it easy to start moving around 2k.
I've owned a 1994, two 95s and never had a gs500 idle as consistently.
Yeah, it turns Budda, BBoy, and myself we all on point with the lean misfire diagnosis. Is there a patting yourself on the back emoticon? :cheers:
Love it when a thread comes together!
:cheers:
- Bboy