I measured the 14.6mm with vernier calipers, set them both the same. I then check them with the suggested hose on the drain tube and hold up to the gasket line...Right carb is spot on BUT left carb(looking forward) is 10 mm above the gasket line. Went back, checked the distance using the outlined method on the forums, gasket line to the top of float as it just rests on the needle.
Checked the needle, seems not to be worn, checked the float for leaks underwater, no issues either. Any Ideas????
Swapped the floats & needles. Still the same, left carb is +10mm, even with the tackle from the other carb. Hmm, what else could I try?
Bad spigot O ring.
Cool.
Buddha.
will try that now. give me 10 minutes!....... :woohoo:
Hey Buddha, tried switching the spigots all together, no difference. I have swapped the spigot, float, needle. None have made a difference. anything else it could be?
What you mean swap it ?
Put a new one in.
OK then maybe your needle is hosed.
Or you didn't set em right.
Blow test them on the bench. If they hold, they'd hold back that tank full of fuel. Else no.
Cool.
Buddha.
I swapped all from right to left. But the problem still persists on the left. and the right is still fine even with all the left side components, spiggot, float, oring, needle.
Believe the drain valve test. Set the fuel level based on that, then see what's up. It absolutely doesn't matter what measurement you get on the float adjustment, it matters where the fuel level itself is, and it needs to be dead even with the seam between float chamber and carb body. If it's not there, and if it is not the same on both carbs you don't have accurate fuel metering. :thumb:
And as Buddha says, if the needle holds the fuel back, it's good. If not, no good. :cheers:
I also tried setting the fuel level by getting the float height set at 14mm. Did not work for me. And one spigot o-ring was bad as well. Like trumpetguy says, believe the drain valve test. Check level, drain bowls, remove bowl, tweak the tang, install bowl, refill bowls, check level, repeat as necessary. You will want socket head cap screws for this procedure.
Have you been adjusting the float eight by adjusting that small metal tab that the needle hooks to? Because if that's out of whack EVERYTHING will be out of whack on that side no matter what you replace.
Yeah guys, I originally measured the floats, BUT I have used the drain valve test EVERYTIME.
SOOO.... Since I have changed everything from one carb to the other, that would rule out the spiggot, float, needle, o-ring, float tab, etc.
Hence why I am running out of ideas. Effectively I have replaced everything in the left carb. still the level issue persists.(using the drain valve test)
could it be that the left carb, having the vacuum line from the frame fuel petcock, is pulling more fuel through a bad petcock diaphragm, and flooding over the carb?
The motor wasn't running when I checked them. Just gravity fed. hence no vacuum
if the diaphragm is broken then fuel would be free to leak down that line maybe? And if the bike wasn't running it wouldn't be getting sucked into the cylinder I dunno....
how would i go about checking this?
If its happening via petcock diaphragm it will be smelling so much like gasoline.
Cool.
Buddha.
no joy on the petcock, it is fine.
went for a ride, bike performed well. Mid coasting i flipped the kill switch and then removed the plugs in the driveway. they are really black still. :dunno_black:
Did you check the diaphragm in the carb? Like, pull it out, hold it up to the light and look for a pinhole?
I mentioned this in someone else's post - what about the mix screw?
Diaphragm in the carb will affect it running @ over 1/2 throttle.
It will not pass 6K in 1st, 5500 in 2, 5K in 3, 4500 in 4th and so on ...
Till then it will run very very well.
Cool.
Buddha.