This oil leak has been sanctioned by Satan himself. NOTHING I do will seal it. So I'm asking for suggestions/help.
The part is a vacuum pump that attaches to the side of the top half of the engine block. See pics below The car is a 2000 VW Jetta TDI
Here is what I've done so far.
0. Cleaned surfaces. The mating surfaces are smooth, there are no gouges or scratches.
1. New gasket, properly torqued.
2. New gasket, Permatex® High-Temp Red RTV Silicone Gasket Maker (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_makers/auto_Permatex_High-Temp_Red_RTV_Silicone_Gasket.htm), properly torqued
3. New gasket, Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Gasket Sealant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Form-A-Gasket_No_2_Sealant.htm), properly torqued
4. New gasket, Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 1 Gasket Sealant (http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/gasket_sealants/auto_Permatex_Form-A-Gasket_No_1_Sealant.htm), properly torqued
The *only* thing I think might help is buying the $40 tube of VW approved gasket sealant. :icon_rolleyes:
I'm beginning to think the problem might be high oil pressure. Thoughts?
(http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/8963/medimg14372732626.jpg)
(the tiny hole is the oil supply. The nickel sized hole is oil return.
what vehicle?
Talk (very nicely) to the service manager at the VW dealership. They just may tell you what to do.
Have you tried making a gasket from good ol' fashioned paper material? Paper gaskets swell when they are exposed to oil, maybe it will help to seal for you? Dunno. Not much experience here.
You are making it up. There is no problem. Everyone knows that Volkswagens, like Toyotas and Hondas, never break or exibit any nagging problems.
Are you sure it's the gasket surface that's leaking, and not the vacuum pump itself?
I've had good luck using Threebond 1104 (aka Yamabond). I just read in a thread that the 1104 may be discontinued and is now 1194. Something to do with lead content in it. I'd let it set overnight before starting the engine to be sure it's well cured.
Apparently the Porsche guys like using it to seal engine cases.
http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/0510_porsche_911_sc_carrera_engine_assembly/index.html
Good luck
if your thinking high oil pressure that would mean you have an oil passage blocked somewhere right?
I'd do a thorough check of the pump. Chances are, unless you got an OEM part it was quickly assembled in Mexico or China and not up to par with what was most likely a Bosch component originally. German cars don't like Mexinese parts.
Interesting that it's being that much of a PITA.
Just for conformity, here's my procedure:
Buy a new gasket
Clean both surfaces thoroughly with a single-edged razor blade. Be sure not to gouge the Aluminum.
Further clean the surfaces with a maroon Scotch Brite pad to remove any final traces of old gasket.
Clean the surface of all oil, grit, etc. with a rag soaked in carburetor cleaner.
Cover both sides of the gasket with a light, even coat of Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket #3.
Reassemble while tacky and torque the fasters to specification.
Wait 24-48 hours before operating.
I never install a gasket without priming it with Form-A-Gasket.
Somehow, I've gained the reputation as the local CAV DPA series injection pump guru. I seal the tricky leak-prone advancer housings to the body of the pump with Permatex #1. They always leak coming in, but I never have to re-work one. Aircraft engines are assembled sans gaskets with Permatex #3. Unless the surfaces are not flat, you shouldn't be having that much trouble unless there's a procedural error.
Failing all that, try Hylomar PL32M or H.