Well, I conduct my first oil changed over the weekend because 1) there was a leak, 2) wanted to do one before the season started..
This was my first bike and man was I in for a suprise...
As I was going down to unscrew the drain plug, the drain plug was already LOOSE, and on top of that, it had no washer.
At this point I was more relived than angry because if this plug had fell out while I was riding (I had already clocked 500km on the bike) I couldn't imagine the reprecussions.
I definitely learnt a number of lessons from this when buying a bike... I didn't think this would be something I should be concerned about :| I would assume any individual would at least screw on something like a drain plug on tight...
edit: I am also going to bleed the brake fluid...
Ive got 5500km clocked, any more standard maintenance items you guys can suggest?
clean and lube the chain if needed
It might be worth taking a look at the maintenance schedule and going ahead and doing everything that should have been done already. Just assume the guy before you was a 'tard and didn't do anything. Looking at the schedule on the main page (http://gstwin.com/maintenance_info.htm) suggests most of the stuff is just inspections anyway at this point.
Might be a little over the top, but probably a good place to start.
Hi there,
It's always good to completely go over a bike you've just bought.
I trust few shade tree mechanics. Those who advertise "rebuilt engine" make me immediately suspect because often people rebuild things and haven't a clue or take it to a cheap. lousy shop.
Buyer beware, indeed.
I'd suggest:
Don't bleed the brakes, but instead REPLACE the fluid and then bleed the brakes. It's easy to do and should be done every two years to keep moisture from corroding the delicate brake caliper
and master cylinder internals. You bleed the brakes until the fluid reservoirs get lower, then refill them and bleed again. Keep doing that until fresh new fluid appears at the caliper end of the lines and then refill and you are done. DON'T let the reservoirs get EMPTY or you will have a lot tougher time bleeding the lines of the air that you will have allowed to get into the lines.
Adjust and lube the chain, adjusting it on the SIDESTAND and at it's tightest spot to get it right. Adjust to .7" of up/down play on the sidestand is good.
Check steering head bearings for proper adjustment by putting the bike on the centerstand and lifting up on the front forks at the bottom. Feel any play forward or backward? If so, the steering head bearings are loose and must be adjusted.
Check brake pad thicknesses and replace pads if necessary.
Did you replace the oil filter and its o-ring at your oil change? I hope so. Always replace it. They are cheap insurance. I use Suzuki filters and seals because I prefer them, but others go with Fram.
Air up tires -- 33 PSI front, 41 PSI rear. Makes a huge difference.
Check and tighten all nuts and bolts for tightness. Be sure to check and tighten the header bolts that hold the exhaust headers to the engine -- they frequently loosen from vibration. Those bolts are delicate because they rust and get brittle. Now is a good time to change them, in fact. Get the proper hardened bolts. Many people replace them with hex head bolts instead of the stock Allen bolts or with studs into the head, and then nuts and washers holding the headers on. That makes them easier to deal with.
Check all cables for proper operation. Replace any balky or sticking cables. You can lube them but I have had a sticky clutch cable snap without warning.
How does it ride?
Is it making any loud noises?
How does it handle in curves?
Are the tires weather-checked and in need of replacement?
The list can go on.
Post some photos.
And have fun.
Best wishes,
Trwhouse :)