I'm a bit unclear on how to properly check the float height w/ the carbs apart. As I turn the carbs to orient the float bowls to take a measurement, this is what I see happening:
First, the float tang touches the little "button" (plunger?) atop the float valve.
Second, the float valve starts to slide into the shaft.
Third, the button starts to depress.
Lastly, the button fully depresses, and float valve slides completely into the shaft.
At what point do I take the measurement? From what I understand from Clymer, it's right as the tang touches the button, but at that point, the float valve is slid out of the shaft part way. Is that right? It seems like the level needs to be fairly precise, but I'm having a hard time getting accurate/consistent measurements.
And I know my levels are off, as I've measured w/ the carbs installed using clear tubing and my left one is about 1/8" high, and my right is about 1/2" low.
Thanks for any help.
uh... yeah.
RTFM :P
Quote from: JamesGuh... yeah.
RTFM :P
WOW youre being a real duck tonite huh?
Quote from: JamesGuh... yeah.
RTFM :P
uh... thanks.
RMFP:
Quote from: chimivee
From what I understand from Clymer, it's right as the tang touches the button, but at that point, the float valve is slid out of the shaft part way. Is that right?
Any other constructive advice?
Thanks.
RTFM...well not exactly...The stoopid suzuki manual is pretty much trash...toss it. Haynes or clymers both describe the u tube...that is the right way for mortals. If you have to and I mean absolutely have to...I really mean absolutely...cos the procedure takes 6 hands connected to the same brain...put the carbs on their head...connect hose to the inlet...and start blowing into it...hold one float down...at one point the other will begin to flow air...hold that float at that spot...and measure...repeat for the other carb. If at any point you turn blue in the face...dont blame me...I told you so...
Cool.
Srinath.
Geez tough crowd... didn't you see the :P ?
anyways,
Its really not that hard. You turn the carb over with the bowl off; level doesn't really matter. Get down so you can see across the tang of the float where it touches the "button", use your finger across the back of the hinge of the float to raise and lower it. "Close" the valve with the float until it just touches the button but doesn't start to depress it. Measure from the lip of the carb body to the seam in the floaty with a ruler. It doesn't have to be exact, somewhere between 13 ~ 15mm is spec I think.
You adjust it by taking the float off and gently bending the metal tang a little. reassemble and trying the above again. Yes its tedious, but once you get right it should be good to go. You can adjust your mixture with this, but its not as exact as changing jets, so is not recommended.
Is that better?
:P :P :P
Quote from: JamesG
Is that better?
:P :P :P
Much.
That's what I ended up doing, I think - I measured w/ the float valve all the way in and the button not depressed. But, the valve woudn't always slide in all the way before the tang hit, the button. So I pushed on the float to close the valve and depress the button completely, then let go and tilted the carbs, until the button popped up, but valve was still closed. Seems to work.
Only thing is, I measured from the float bowl edge to the top (bottom, when right side up) of the float, not the "seam." I believe that's what the Clymer meant - Is that incorrect?
Thanks.
Quote from: chimiveeI measured from the float bowl edge to the top (bottom, when right side up) of the float, not the "seam." I believe that's what the Clymer meant - Is that incorrect?
Yep. Here's the sketch from the Haynes manual:

The Haynes manual lists the desirable height measurement as 14.6 mm +/- 1.0mm.
If you want, I can type in the textual description of the procedure from the Haynes manual as well, for comparison.
EDIT: Changed link from
sisna.com to
bbburma.net
Thanks, Kerry. That's how I measured, so I think I'm set.