I suspect that my starting problems may be due to not having the carbs correctly seated in the intakes. Can anyone refer me to pics or an explanation of how far in they are supposed to be? Pictures would be even better. I have mine in up to the first ridge on the carbs but they still feel kinda loose.
the carbs slide in about 1/2 inch - 5.8 an inch into the boot
When I got my used 96 gs500 a few months ago the carbs were in a cardboard box (along with boxes for the fuel tank, airbox, and an assortment of hoses and bolts). Seating the carbs and making sure the boots fit just right was one of the most challenging for me. Like you, I was not sure if I had a tight (or right) fit. It wasn't until a motorhead friend of mine had the confidence to really pull on them that they seated properly. I have since removed the carbs and reseated them successfully a couple of times (for trouble shooting and cleaning).
I'm no expert, but I found that if I placed myself facing towards the rear of the bike, and grabbed the carbs on the left and right side. I could pull the carbs into their intakes with the same feel as as if I was trying to pull a leather boot onto my foot. That mental image helped me to yank on the carbs, but do it gently enough to work them into position. There was a definite feel to it when the carbs got seated - as if my heel had just pushed through into my well-fitting boot. When seated, the carbs also would not easily come out without some force being applied.
One more thing, I also found that I had to tighten the clamps around the boot completely or the seating alone didn't provide enough of a seal for the carbs/engine connection.
People with a lot more experience than me will give you better advice, no doubt - but this is what worked for me, and got me running. I hope this is helpful to you.
Good luck :thumb:
thanks a lot!! that was very helpful
Quote from: rah on April 09, 2009, 09:43:09 AM
I'm no expert, but I found that if I placed myself facing towards the rear of the bike, and grabbed the carbs on the left and right side. I could pull the carbs into their intakes with the same feel as as if I was trying to pull a leather boot onto my foot. That mental image helped me to yank on the carbs, but do it gently enough to work them into position. There was a definite feel to it when the carbs got seated - as if my heel had just pushed through into my well-fitting boot. When seated, the carbs also would not easily come out without some force being applied.
One more thing, I also found that I had to tighten the clamps around the boot completely or the seating alone didn't provide enough of a seal for the carbs/engine connection.
People with a lot more experience than me will give you better advice, no doubt - but this is what worked for me, and got me running. I hope this is helpful to you.
Nope, that's about right. Your experience is a valuable education. The carb boots on mine are a PITA. The boots are pretty hard to mess up, and the carb really needs to be seated, so pull the crap out of it. There needs to be a vacuum tight seal, so you do have to tighten the clamps or you will have a vacuum leak - probably with hanging idle.
Quote from: rah on April 09, 2009, 09:43:09 AM
When I got my used 96 gs500 a few months ago the carbs were in a cardboard box (along with boxes for the fuel tank, airbox, and an assortment of hoses and bolts). Seating the carbs and making sure the boots fit just right was one of the most challenging for me. Like you, I was not sure if I had a tight (or right) fit. It wasn't until a motorhead friend of mine had the confidence to really pull on them that they seated properly. I have since removed the carbs and reseated them successfully a couple of times (for trouble shooting and cleaning).
I'm no expert, but I found that if I placed myself facing towards the rear of the bike, and grabbed the carbs on the left and right side. I could pull the carbs into their intakes with the same feel as as if I was trying to pull a leather boot onto my foot. That mental image helped me to yank on the carbs, but do it gently enough to work them into position. There was a definite feel to it when the carbs got seated - as if my heel had just pushed through into my well-fitting boot. When seated, the carbs also would not easily come out without some force being applied.
One more thing, I also found that I had to tighten the clamps around the boot completely or the seating alone didn't provide enough of a seal for the carbs/engine connection.
People with a lot more experience than me will give you better advice, no doubt - but this is what worked for me, and got me running. I hope this is helpful to you.
Good luck :thumb:
your first gs was a basket case. you use foot wear analogies. you've done stuff most folks haven't had to.... and still only 7 posts young. you'll make a
fine gstwinner !
welcome :)
Why is everyone saying to "pull them tight" ??? You are talking about attatching your carbs back onto the bike PUSHING it into the boots on the motor no?
I also find, if you have an airbox, put it onto the carbs first, then install them both as one unit :thumb:
There is a place beyond Hanes and Clymer that GSTwinners tread. It feels good to contribute to the repository.
Thanks for the comment ohgood. It's nice to be welcomed by such a great group of enthusiasts.
As for the term "pull", scottpA_GS, that was the term I used on this thread. I used it because I found it a lot harder to push from the rear to seat the carbs versus facing towards the rear of the bike and pulling the carbs into the block. I suppose I'm a good puller, and a bad pusher :cool: C'est la vie.
I also tried your suggestion of attaching the airbox first, but I didn't have much luck. But that was probably my fault. If memory serves me... I hadn't detached the fuel/reserve valve from the frame of the bike, and maneuvering the airbox in the tight space under the seat added to my woes, and contributed to a few bruised fingers. In the end, I found it easier to attach the carbs first, seal them up with the clamps, then attach the airbox, and screw in the fuel valve.
No doubt more complex than I had to make it.
Quote from: rah on April 09, 2009, 05:41:34 PM
I suppose I'm a good puller, and a bad pusher :cool: C'est la vie.
:icon_lol: :icon_lol:
:cheers:
I understand :thumb:
would incorrectly seating them cause the bike not to start?
I believe so - but it depends on how poorly they are seated. I found that it wasn't until my carbs were in good and snug that I was able to get the bike to fire up. A problem I had was making sure that the boots were loose enough to fit ouside the carb/engine connection. So make sure you've unscrewed the clamps completely and that when the carbs are going in - the boots are clear of the seating area and aren't getting in the way of a good seal.
at one point I had the carbs probably about halfway-in in hindsight and started her up and she blew the carbs back out. So I took off the tank and redid everything and for some reason, when I reseated them they pushed right in all the way and felt really secure. I'm not sure what I was doing differently before but all of a sudden it became abundantly clear that I hadn't installed them correctly before.
Well it sounds like to me that you got the "feel" of it and got things working for you. Congrats!