Hey guys,
I believe my reputation precedes me... regretfully I'm the guy who dropped stanfry's '89 GS500. His words before the ride were "you break it, you buy it." Well I bought it and am now a proud owner and member of the GStwin community.
The bike looks pretty good for being dropped but I have one concern. When the bike went down, the right handlebar was pushed far enough to dent the fuel tank. The bar was bent, which isn't a concern. However, when holding the front wheel, there is a small amount of play in the bars. It appears that the top crown is pivoting ever so slightly relative to the top of the forks. Anybody have an idea of what I broke and what the parts would cost?
Also, upon VERY close inspection (my mind may be playing games with me) it appears the forks may be bent. 1) Is it possible to have them straightened? 2) What are my options to replace the forks? 3)How much is this gonna hurt?
Thanks everyone.
If the fork is bent, your best bet is to find a used set of fork legs. That's a tough cost to estimate because used parts prices vary greatly. Figure somewhere between $75 and $200 - maybe someone else can figure better.
Play in the steering head is probably due to a bad bearing or it's possibly just loose. Remove the top triple clamp and tighten the retaining nuts underneath it. If they're good and tight, take them off and inspect the bearing. Bearings are pretty cheap, so that won't hurt too bad. I'd say worst case scenario you're replacing the fork legs. Not a tough job if you're a little mechanically inclined.
Maybe change the bars first. If they are bent, then it's hard to see other problems (or you start seeing problems where there aren't any).
Quote from: Lerxstwhen holding the front wheel, there is a small amount of play in the bars.
Could just be loose nuts holding the bars. Or maybe a bearing.
Quote from: LerxstIt appears that the top crown is pivoting ever so slightly relative to the top of the forks.
Find another GS to compare to. When things get "ever so slight", then it's hard to tell what is what without something to compare to.
About the forks, how did the bike fall? If the handlebars are stock, and dented the tank, then there must have been some twisting force on the bars themselves. I think the stock bars will go lock-to-lock without hitting the tank; and twisting the wheel hard will turn the fork until it is stopped at the lock; then the forks would bend, but the bars still shouldn't hit the tank. Maybe the bars aren't stock, and are capable of hitting the tank :bs:. Or else it sounds like there was a lot of twisting force applied to the bars directly. In that case, I'd expect the bar to bend first.
The bike fell on the right side and slid about 10 feet. The impact caused the right stock bar end to be bent about 1 inch from true. When turning the bars now, they don't hit the tank so I figure there was definitely some twisting going on.
Your bar is bent of course...its made of paper...But I dont thinks forks are that easy to bend...you even lift one and see how heavy it is...I believe your steering stops are probably dented/damaged/broken...
I know it happened on mine. I can make up some bars out of 3/16th tubing that will be a bit stronger than the stockers...If you want.
Also watch for the posts that the bars bolt to being damaged...they break/get threads pulled out etc easy cos the Top triple is cast aluminum and rather weak. Just threads pulling out means you helicoil it...if its broken off...you are screwed...well just replace the top triple from one with a later year and fit tube type bars and you're fine...Those later years triples are practically worthless...
Cool.
Srinath.
The forks - Sight down the back of the tubes as you're sitting on the bike, if one looks like its further forward that the other you may only need to loosen the triple clamps and straighten the forks with the front wheel in between your knees. If you can sight down the sides of the tubes and they look like the tubes are curving front to back or back to front, only then are they're bent.
Isn't the top crown rubber mounted? As opposed to the top triple clamp?
Oh yea...There are rubber doughnuts in the top triple that the handlebar plate bolts to...and they cause the little play you see...They can be replaced or can be tightened down if loose.
Cool.
Srinath.
Excellent advice. I'll check it out. Thank you. :thumb:
Quote from: seshadri_srinathOh yea...There are rubber doughnuts in the top triple that the handlebar plate bolts to...and they cause the little play you see...They can be replaced or can be tightened down if loose.
Cool.
Srinath.
Be sure not to tighten these too tight. You are just compressing the rubber. If you go to far, you loose a little of the dampening effect they provide.
Paul
Well yes and no...the rubber can only be tightened so far there is a steel sleeve inside which will limit the rubber compression. If the rubber doughnuts are chewed up...here is the over tightening part...replace the sleeves with shorter ones...slightly shorter...and crank away..the dough nuts will get crushed harder and be tight...even if they are damaged.
Cool.
Srinath.
why replace the sleeves when you already have a set right there, just grind down abit from one end and put them back. works for me
I know...just euphemism...Though I have a veritable collection of sleeves...thicker also works in some cases.
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: seshadri_srinathI know...just euphemism...Though I have a veritable collection of sleeves...thicker also works in some cases.
Cool.
Srinath.
OK, now you really are bragging. :mrgreen:
Its steel or copper pipe cut off in various lengths...wht's to brag...copper pipe is standard Home depot issue..
Cool.
Srinath.
Quote from: Lerxst
Also, upon VERY close inspection (my mind may be playing games with me) it appears the forks may be bent. 1) Is it possible to have them straightened? 2) What are my options to replace the forks? 3)How much is this gonna hurt?
I locked my rear on the 97 GS and went down 4 yrs ago and again went down when hit by the S-10 in July. In both cases the handlebars were turned relative to the wheel and forks. The fork tubes were twisted, but not bent. Loosened the fork brace each time and they sprang back into place.
The slightly used 02 GS I bought had the same condition. Not concerned, I rode it home, loosened the fork brace, and it too sprang back into place.
3 out of 3 times. Try loosening your fork brace, the plate that holds the front fender, and see if the fork tubes don't spring back into place.
Quote from: gsJackfork tubes were twisted, but not bent. Loosened the fork brace each time and they sprang back into place.
Should the axle be loosened or the wheel removed before loosening the fork brace screws? Or do you keep the wheel tight to help the fork find it's natural shape?
Quote from: Rema1000Quote from: gsJackfork tubes were twisted, but not bent. Loosened the fork brace each time and they sprang back into place.
Should the axle be loosened or the wheel removed before loosening the fork brace screws? Or do you keep the wheel tight to help the fork find it's natural shape?
Leave the axle tight, but I forgot to mention it helps to loosen the top nut on the steering stem to allow the top triple clamp to move relative to the bottom one. This won't affect the bearing adjustment, the adjustment nuts are below the triple clamp.
I tightened the bolts holding the crown w/ the handlebars... still had play in the bars.
I loosened the top nut and the fork brace... no improvement.
So I got on the bike and started riding. I put 100 miles on yesterday without any problems... works for me.
I have to safety the bike anyways, so I'll take it into the shop and have them look it over.
I hear Gord's Motorsports in Winnipeg is pretty good. Anyone have any opinions?
I took the bike into get safetied... this was the mechanics comments.
Broken front brake switch, no high beam, replace chain... $165 cdn (including safety certification).
Front wheel was twisted from the crash... straightened... no charge.
Play in the handlebars... normal... nothing required.
Clearly I am very happy with the outcome. :mrgreen: