Hello all, I have a 2004 GS500F.
I'm having a hard time finding a proper route to guide the strings through without being obstructed. When it's on the centerstand the legs get in the way and I can't seem to find another way to do this by myself. Only other way I can think of is if I find someone to hold the bike for me so it doesn't need to be on the centerstand, but there isn't anyone around to do this lol. Keep in mind I have fairings, so it really limits the area the string can follow through.
Also, I've tried measuring from the rear axel bolt to the swing arm pivot cap (it's the grey circular cap right?) and it reads near identical on both sides even though I know it's out of alignment.
Thanks for reading! I'd post this in an older thread, but people always confuse it for a new thread and just respond to the OP lol.
-Steven
String method - you're not building a boat trailer.
We line em up with the marks on the rear wheel.
Past that, either FE is bent, swingarm is bent, wheels are bent or frame is bent.
Cool.
Buddha.
My alignment plate is sh@t so I can't use the swingarm marks.
Tried the string method, but couldn't make it work, although I have a naked model.
I measure the distance from the end of the swingarm to the axle bolt center.
Near identical on both sides doesn't count. I've found, a few mm is all that it takes.
Add to the list of Buddha's potential problems, a crooked tyre.
What you mean alignment plate - that end plate ?
Even so, the alignment marks on the swingarm may be not affected by that end plate bending.
Cool.
Buddha.
I'm with Buddha, use the marks if you can. An old school method was to take a long, wide board and cut it to match the difference in tire size from front to rear. Then you just lay it along the sides of the tires as your reference point.
The method I've been using is to use a metal ruler, longer is better I use an 18 inch one. All you have to do is place the straight edge along the bottom of the sprocket where the chain and sprocket meet. Then it's a straight shot out and you just adjust one wheel adjuster till you get approximately the right chain tension and adjust the other one so the end of the ruler is flush with the left side inside links of the chain and voila straight. I'll post a pic if it's still not clear to everyone.
Buddha, I mean the side plates with the notch on top. They are shot.
Just to clarify, they have too much free play, so I can't be positive that both are aligned the same way.
(http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4856/plate.jpg)
Sorry, I should have clarifed that I just changed my chain, front and rear sprockets, and had a new tire put on, so that's why it's out of alignment-- after I installed everything back. The alignment marks on the end of the swingarm aren't anywhere close to accurate with the freeplay they have. So I'm trying to remedy the alignment problem by using the popular string method. The problem I'm running in to is clearence, so I was hoping others on here that have done it could chime in.
-Steven
You could maybe try to put the swingarm up on jack stands. Then you could raise both the center and side stands.
Quote from: qwertydude on May 05, 2009, 01:31:37 PMThe method I've been using is to use a metal ruler,
This sounds like the way to go, good idea! :icon_exclaim:
Quote from: Paulcet on May 05, 2009, 07:43:08 PM
You could maybe try to put the swingarm up on jack stands. Then you could raise both the center and side stands.
That's a smart idea! Thanks for the tip :cheers:
MK1 eyeball and some practice.
Quote from: qwertydude on May 05, 2009, 01:31:37 PM
The method I've been using is to use a metal ruler, longer is better I use an 18 inch one. All you have to do is place the straight edge along the bottom of the sprocket where the chain and sprocket meet. Then it's a straight shot out and you just adjust one wheel adjuster till you get approximately the right chain tension and adjust the other one so the end of the ruler is flush with the left side inside links of the chain and voila straight. I'll post a pic if it's still not clear to everyone.
If you can that would be great. Having a hard time trying to find a way to my bike on jack stands lol.
I've managed to ride almost 150k GS500 miles on 2 GSs without using the string method of rear wheel alignment.
I use the marks on the swingarm. There is too much clearance between the swing arm and the alignment plates so it is necessary to rotate the plate on left side of the bike clockwise to take up the clearance and the plate on the right side counterclockwise to take up clearance and then snug down the axle nut to hold them in place and then proceed with adjustment.
Works for me, I can tell when I ride off if it's OK. If the rear wheel is turned right or left a bit then the front wheel will be turned right or left a similar amount in the same direction when the bike is going straight ahead and further correction is necessary although rarely requirsd.
I have a metal yardstick I sometimes use to check alignment of the rear wheel. I place it across the rear tire just below the chain with the extra length extended forward and then can see if the yard stick is in line with the chain as it should be when the wheel is straight ahead. Same idea as qwertydude's method.
Quote from: lamoun on May 05, 2009, 02:10:12 PM
Buddha, I mean the side plates with the notch on top. They are shot.
Just to clarify, they have too much free play, so I can't be positive that both are aligned the same way.
(http://img514.imageshack.us/img514/4856/plate.jpg)
If that is the case, you can measure the free length of the bolt left sticking out past the end plate in the swingarm.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on May 06, 2009, 05:28:42 AM
If that is the case, you can measure the free length of the bolt left sticking out past the end plate in the swingarm.
Cool.
Buddha.
Is this accurate? This would sure be a helluva lot easier than other methods if it is. Right now both bolts are sticking out an uneven amount even though the marks on the swing arm are identical.
when I align my rear wheel, I measure the closest spot from the tire to the front of the swingarm. haven't had any problems yet, and have done it at least a dozen times
i make sure the plates are in the same position and then just measure the adjuster bolt for the chain tension. Right now both are identical to the mm and it rides great.
Quote from: SNsSuzuki on May 05, 2009, 07:30:08 PM
Sorry, I should have clarifed that I just changed my chain, front and rear sprockets, and had a new tire put on, so that's why it's out of alignment-- after I installed everything back. The alignment marks on the end of the swingarm aren't anywhere close to accurate with the freeplay they have. So I'm trying to remedy the alignment problem by using the popular string method. The problem I'm running in to is clearence, so I was hoping others on here that have done it could chime in.
-Steven
1)
do it on the side stand.2) use two castrol oil jugs (quart size) with the string tied around the neck -just- below the cap for the front wheel.
3) loop the string through the spoke of the rear wheel and make an "X", use tape if you need to for the rear wheel.
the string will -just- pass by the sidestand spring on the L side, and be clear of everything on the R side.
leave the bike in neutral until you've rolled the bike forward and back enough to determine the string will clear everything. then lock it down in first gear. so it won't roll off when you tighten the axle. like i did. ;)
hope this helps. :) the string method is best.