Hi,
Well I've started my maintenance... and the first thing to do is to get new rubber on the wheels :)
Run into a bit of a problem though... can't seem to get the front caliper unbolted. I've sprayed some penetrating oil on the bolts, but I'm looking for any other tips/advice (if there are/is any).
Also, any tips for removing the rear caliper? Similar issue: the rear banjo hose bolt won't loosen...
I don't undo the brake line when removing the caliper. Use a socket on the caliper mounting bolt and a cheater bar if necessary -- I have a piece of black iron pipe that just fits over my socket handle. I don't think you're going to break that bolt...
Once it is loose and you move the caliper away from the rotor, use a piece of wire to tie the caliper up and out of the way. You're trying NOT to let it put its weight on the brake line.
DO NOT push the brake lever when the caliper is off the rotor or you will have a hard time getting the pads back on the rotor.
If you jacked it up, lower it.
Caliper mounting bolts only - don't mess with the hoses, as already stated, unless you are replacing hoses.
Smack wrench with a block of wood or a mallet (going for limited impact, as opposed to wailing on it with a hammer). Once they turn you can jack it up, but makes no difference to the caliper removal part of the operation.
i'm a little scrawny asian kid, whenever i remove lug nuts or anything that just requires lots of torque, i just stick my wrench on the bolt and then stand on the wrench. I figure I put out about 100 lbs of torque when standing on my 8 inch long wrench, usually the perfect torque for lugs. If i need 70ish lbs, i use my 6 inch wrench. I'm like my own torque wrench.
after taking off the caliper, i usually stick something between the pads and just rest the whole caliper on my handlebar.
btw bleeding brakes is so much easier if the caliper is above the master cylinder. the air bubbles just float up to the bleeder