Some of you may know I took a spill on Memorial Day and my bike has a small crack on the magneto cover. I ran across a post where JB Weld was used to fix a cover. So figured I can get out on the road again faster by patching the crack while still looking for a replacement. I've not used JB Weld before so I googled it and saw there was a JB Stik. Here are my questions:
1. So has anyone used JB Stik?
2. How does it compare to JB Weld?
3. Which would do a better job of filling the crack?
4. Any tips on how to use either (other then mix and apply)?
-Porkchop
They both are crap. They wont expand and contract with heat and they whont hold the oil back very long.
The worst scenario is that you could break through that if you crash again and get the rotor and stator behind that cover clobbering each other. Else you just be sooner or later spraying oil and getting chunks of JB into the alternator and motor which can tear up the alternator.
Cool.
Buddha.
So I guess Buddha's answers would go as follows:
1. So has anyone used JB Stik? Yes
2. How does it compare to JB Weld? It's crap
3. Which would do a better job of filling the crack? They are both crap
4. Any tips on how to use either (other then mix and apply)? Use one to apply the other to a target at 10 paces, then shoot the crap out of 'em (I'm only guessing on this one).
Oh well, there goes that idea.
So, Buddha, ya got any spare magneto covers?
-Porkchop
I dont but people have posted here, including dgyver if I recall.
You can get it welded and shaped on the inside to clear the stator etc ... mst of the problems wont occour, but be prepared to fork out big $$ ... like 25-50 bones, its aluminum ...
Cool.
Buddha.
If its a minor crack I see no reason you cant get by with just putting a bit on the outside. basicly you are just keeping water out right? ???.. I ran my GS for 2 years with just a paper sticker over the hole thats normaly covered by the suzuki emblem :thumb:
Either one should do the job OK if they're used properly. Epoxies have been used to adhere aluminum in aircraft frames since the 1940's. The problem with using epoxies on aluminum is surface preparation. Aluminum has a tendency to adsorb water to it's surface, and water contamination will greatly reduce the bond strength. Clean the surface till it is PERFECTLY clean, then clean the surface with acetone to remove any contaminates, plus as much water as possible. The humidity of the atmosphere needs to be as low as possible, so if you're in a humid climate, work in an air conditioned space. Apply the epoxy, then let it cure overnight.
I personally don't like using the epoxy stick putties, because they are sensitive to shelf life, and there is no way to tell just how old they are until they fail in application.
Quote from: scottpA_GS on June 09, 2009, 02:46:27 PM
If its a minor crack I see no reason you cant get by with just putting a bit on the outside. basicly you are just keeping water out right? ???.. I ran my GS for 2 years with just a paper sticker over the hole thats normaly covered by the suzuki emblem :thumb:
He's referring to the left side I think. Alternator side.
Cool.
Buddha.
The crack on my GS is on the left side. Thanks for all the advise guys.
-Porkchop
use jb weld, jb stick is too hard to get perfectly into a crack. it will definitely work. I have an air compressor with jb weld patching a hold and it's been holding 80psi for the past two years. it was scary filling the tank for the first time.
One step I forgot to add in the surface prep. Lightly sand the area you're going to bond right before cleaning with acetone. This is the only practical way to remove any adsorbed water from the aluminum surface.