When tighting the sparkplugs how tight should they be????
Also can i hurt the motor washing the bike when hot??
Also i dont have a tourqe wrench, there new and i just screwed them in until they were tight and stopped, is this wrong??
when I do the plugs, I just tighten them till I feel good about it, never had a problem on my cars or my motorcycles
So i should be good then?, What gap should they be at. They are NKGs 4929 and seem to be gaped at .0325 from the box.
IDK, I just pull the plugs from the box, and throw them in the bike, not had a problem yet
There is a torque spec in the manual, but I don't have a torque wrench either. I just thread new plugs in until they're seated, then tighten them about 1/8 of a turn after they feel snug. If they're new plugs, you can feel the washer squash as you do this. Just don't gorilla the wrench until you flatten out the washer entirely. No need to. As long as you're in the "squash zone" you'll get a good seal. If the plugs are used, you have to be more careful as the washer is partially squashed already, reducing the leeway the washer affords you. In that case a little more than snug works fine, just so you can feel the washer squash slightly more. I've never had a plug come loose either. They don't need to be very tight, they're not head bolts, caliper bolts, or rear wheel nuts!
And .0325 is perfect. Spec is .031-.035". :thumb:
My NGK's also came out of the box at 32 thou. NGK is VERY good at properly gapping their plugs. In fact, I've never found an NGK plug to be gapped anywhere but right on. (but I check anyway) :cookoo:
"Tighten till it strips, then back-off a quarter turn"
:icon_lol:
Hand tight and 1/4 turn is what I do.
Cool.
Buddha.
If you need a torque wrench to do plugs you probably need to let some one else do it for you!
It's a feel thing using only one hand on the wrench tighten until snug and then 1/4 turn after that. If you check after a ride and they are still snug you're generally good to go. Just remember there is a porcelain head on the plug so treat it Nice and it will treat you nice. :thumb:
Ive had really no experience with alluminum heads and was a little concerned.............seems like newer bikes are not as idiot proof as the older ones im used to.......Thanks guys!
DO NOT, repeat -- DO NOT remove and replace plugs on a hot aluminum head. Let it cool completely. Like others, I snug 'em until it just feels right, which with new crush seals is about 1/4 turn or less after first contact.
Do not wash a hot bike. Let it cool or water will be sucked deep into every corrosion prone crevice as the parts flash cool.
prs
I also like to use anti-seize paste on my plugs. If you have ever pulled a plug from an aluminum head and had the threads come with it, you'll use anti-seize as well!
Cold engine, hand tight (use your wrist, not your whole arm), and then no more than an 1/8 to a 1/4 turn, and always use anti-seize copper grease. It's just to easy to break bolts/strip out threads/ round-out allen bolts on this bike. NEVER use a torque wrench on spark plugs or any other nut or bolt that does specifically have a torque rating - I'm talking from experience - I've stripped car wheel bolts and I'm Mr Puniverse!
Bassman
Finger tight, plus a 1/4 turn. Remember, when re-installing used plugs, the crush washer has already been crushed. Maybe less than a 1/4 turn is needed.