Hello everyone. Just to show there is a great deal of information on this board and elsewhere, I decided to take a chance on the knowledge the others have posted here and some that I have found elsewhere and I believe I have come up with a really great Rear Shock upgrade solution. (If it has been covered before, please forgive me.)
As I have read here, there are not many Suzuki rear shocks that will fit well on the GS without:
1. Having a remote resevoir
2. Having to cut something, hammer something, bend something, etc....
So I set out to find a replacement shock with Preload, Compression, Damping, and Rebound adjustments that would be a bolt on replacement. "NEVER!" you say but I say it can be done. As you shall see, I have found a direct bolt in replacement with all of the above mentioned goodies and none of the muss and fuss! It is called "loverliness!" And it took me all of 10 minutes to bolt it on.
"You jest!" you say, but I say, Watch and bask in the goodness.
Okay, enough of the tardness. After reading some information on here and customfighters.com, I found a stickied thread they have over there that lists some measurements on rear shocks. I got to thinking, I wonder what they are on mine. I didn't want to install a shock that would require me to lengthen the kickstand or would allow the rear tire to sit on the ground when on the center stand. So I went out and measured the shock (bolt to bolt) and found that it was 290mm. Hmmmmmm. I looked on the measurements of some of the other shocks and saw that some were close to that and some I believe were dead on. I also did some other searching and came across a for sale add (in one of the search engines) that listed a Yamaha YZF R6 shock modified for the GS500.
Sooooooo, I thinks to meself, wonder if there are any Yamaha YZF R6 rear shocks on Ebizzle, fo shizzle. Sure enough, there were. Tons of take off rear shocks in impeccable condition and not too pricey. So I thought, what the heck, order one for a few bucks, if it doesn't work out, sell it, trash it, or give it away. (NOTE; This is a shock from an 06-07 R6, the others do not have the same bottom clevis.)
Well, I got it in today and low and behold!, it fits perrrrrrrrrrfffffffectly. Now keep in mind, this may be a crappy shock all around. (hence the loads of them on Ebay.) However, my shock was absolutely shot! It has the leaky farts and crud. So it is totally better than what I had even if it may suck. (Only time will tell once I get it running and setup.)
Anyway, I hope someone else finds this informative and useful and without further adieu, pics please. (Tawlk amoungst yooooselves.)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100003.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100004.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100009.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100010.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100011.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100016.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7100015.jpg)
Man that's awesome good job. You will go down in GS History! Now gotta find me one as my '93 shock is welll.....errrrrrrr...toast.
Very good find! Now whenever someone comes asking for a shock upgrade, not everyone will scream KATANA! I'm guessing this shock might even be better, it certainly has more adjustment.
Now we need a report on how it feels with the GS but this might be the next big thing.
P.S. I like your headlight bucket :thumb:
Looks like a larger diameter spring no issues with rubbing the swing or dogbones rubbing?
No rubbing that I can tell. I will inspect it more closely tomorrow as I am going to be working on painting my swingarm and frame. Just for some perspective, I am 6' 1 1/2" and 245 dry weight. (I know, I know, loose some weight.) But when I sat on the bike, there did not seem to be any obvious rubbing. I will look at the edges of everything to see if there are any shiny spots, Also, in the second to last picture, (you can't see very well,) there is about 1mm space on both sides of the spring.
My problem right now is that I don't have the tool to add more preload so when I sit my big butt down on it, there is considerable sag. But it hasn't been set up for me just yet. I basically popped it on, snapped some pictures, and had a feeling of glee that it simply fit. :D
Dam this post is a week too late I just bought a katana shock bugger :o
I really hope this shock works...if so I'll have one on order by Monday.
have you tryed sitting on it with air box and battery box in? it looks as tho the resivor will hit on one of the 2 when moving.
Unfortunately, I have the head off of my bike at the moment, so I can't test fit the K&N that I have. (Don't have the full box) However, the main reason that I picked this shock over the others that I had found, was because the reservoir sits slightly lower than the top of the shock. It actually sits right dead level with the battery box mount (maybe slightly lower.) I sat on the bike and looked for large movements in the linkage and shock, and I didn't see any movement at the top which would cause it to hit. It's hard to tell in the fourth picture but it really is level with the battery box brace.
I will get some level pictures tomorrow and fit my battery box on to see if there is any interference.
Hmmmmmm, you have really caught my attention with this one!!! I am a hairs-breath away from ordering one right now. lol Go jump on your bike literally and cycle the suspension more. We need input.
Oh, and why do you say this is a crappy shock?
My mistake. This shock looks to be really good. I just don't have any knowledge if the yamaha shocks are any good. I will hop on the bike in the morning and really give it the what for.
I had to ask as an R6 is not a shabby bike.
You think it will clear the airbox ?
Anyway, the thing about the newer sport bikes shocks is leverage.
I have a SV1000 I did suspension swaps on. I put a GSXR 1000 shock in it. It looked beefy and like it would eat the sv shock for lunch ... and it feels like I was sitting on a dead mattress. The GSXR1K has a lot of travel in its shock compared to an SV, but relatively less than a sv seat travel. That means it had a linkage that amplifies it more than the sv. The GSXR for 2 inch of seat travel compresses the shock 1 inch. The sv for 2 inch seat travel, compresses the shock 1/2 inch. Rough example.
Anyway it prolly is well damped but softly sprung. You should try it out and post back. The Kat and old GSXR shocks were nearly identical for linkage in their original locations. No brainer swaps IMHO, but that dont mean its the only option though.
Cool.
Buddha.
Way to bust balls, Srinath.
Good friggin job, Cboling. If you're giving the entire rebuild that much attention, you're gonna have a heckuva scooter. Nice to finally have options, besides the favorite shock of the beer-gutted.
I think it will clear the airbox however, since I don't have an airbox on my bike I did some searching for a picture of a bike with one on it. Here is a pic from Pantablo's site. I will get a comparison shot of the shock on my bike. I don't think there is any movement at the top range of the shock like a pivot point where it mounts. Correct me if I am wrong but just by looking at it while I sat on the bike there didn't seem to be any. (I'll add a comparison picture here in just a little bit.)
UPDATED: I took a few shots of the shock and some clearance (the best I could) to see what might interfere. It is entirely possible that the airbox could touch and cause problems but I just don't have one I can fit in there to test. I did use a straight edge across the battery box brace to see what the gap was between that and the highest point of the reservoir and it measured right at 9mm so I am not sure if that helps anyone.
If there is anyone near mobile, al with a GS that wants to come by and we can install this on their bike for a comparison, let me know. As for anyone using a unipod or k&n, there wouldn't be any problems. I was going to get some pictures while sitting on the bike to see if there is any interference at the spring / swingarm but I currently have the back wheel off so that I can take off the swingarm and clean it up and paint it today. Once I get it all back together, I will get some more pictures.
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/sv_shock_top_right.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7110002.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7110003.jpg)
(http://bolingfordollars.net/Cycle_Parts/p7110004.jpg)
Comparison pictures added with more info.
As far as the softer spring issue, I did a little research last night and the red springs on the '07 are said to be stiffer.
Overall I think I am going to give this a shot. I completely agree with/understand Buddha's insights into the linkage and travel differences. But for such a cheap price on them why not try it?!
Just from looking I think it will be significantly stiffer. The wire diameter is larger and on top of that there are less coils. Both of which usually end up making stiffer springs.
The GSXR shock also looks like it ate the SV's shock for lunch ... it even has a muscular color ... bright yellow and gun metal against the SV's white and silver.
No dice ... However the GSXR pre 95 750 shock - oh yea ... will pick up the ass of that SV nice. Canr wait till I run it with that shock and see, and first thing I'd do is go to the GSXR pre 95 one. Of course the SV shock is near about a jack hammer with very little rebound and huge compression ... it beats you up on the compression cyle - as you hit a bump, and beats you on the way back with rebounding very quick.
Post back Cboling when you get to bouncing on it I guess.
Cool.
Buddha.
just so you know after talking to some guys over on the kat page the R6 shock is junk for a swap because of a weaker spring rate so i have been told.
I found one thread stating that the spring rate for the R6 shock was 561lbs. Does anyone else have any information? It would be interesting to compare specs on these. I really wish that I had the benefit of a running bike with a good stock rear shock so that I could do some real world testing. If the spring is so soft and the geometry is very far off, I can see where this might not be a good upgrade but as for fit, this shock is a straight bolt in application. I also checked for clearances and there is more than 3/8" between the spring and the other components. With the swing arm fully extended, the bottom clevice doesn't seem to bind either. There is also more than 5mm of clearance for the spring to pivot at the top mount so if the geometry of the bike allows the shock to "swing" outward toward the rear wheel, there is room.
EDIT: I found dgyver's spring rate chart in another thread here http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=34112.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=34112.0)
EDIT EDIT: Here is the link to the customfighters sticky on shock swap info. http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12827 (http://www.customfighters.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12827)
EDIT EDIT EDIT: I finally found a blurb on an R6 spring rate here. (Take it with a grain of salt. Not sure how accurate some of this information is.) http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3499480 (http://www.gixxer.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3499480)
As for converting the measurements in the last post, I am coming up with 548 lbs / Inch using the 9.8 kg /mm. Can someone else with better math confirm this?
It would be really great if there were someone with a GS close by that would be willing to do this test. I would help install it and take measurements and such. (Pensacola, FL / Biloxi, MS?)
CB
Quote from: cboling on July 12, 2009, 07:03:38 AM
I found one thread stating that the spring rate for the R6 shock was 561lbs.
You could also try using this http://guzzitech.com/springrate.html (http://guzzitech.com/springrate.html).
Thanks. If I can dig out my old shock from the trash dumpster, I will get those measurements.
EDIT: I dug out the old shock. (Thanks goodness I don't have a lot of neighbors with babies.!!! Peeeeeeeewwww!!) I measured the spring coil=.39", the diameter (outside to outside)=2.83", and I am counting 4 free coils. (Not sure that is correct and not sure how far off my approx. measurements are going to affect the calculation) but using that weblink, I came up with 375 lbs / inch.
Buddha - how much do you think that the travel can affect the "stiffness" of the shock? If this calculation is close and if the R6 spring is rated near 500+ / inch, would differences in travel still affect the spring "stiffness" even though the spring rate is going to be that much higher?
See, you've confused him, because he's only used to swapping parts.
If you can find the weight of the donor bike, minus swingarm/tire assembly, length of the swingarm and the linkages (center of bolt holes) (and the same for a GS), just plug it into Newtonian two-dimensional vector physics for torque.
Comparative spring rate, based on GS linkages, isn't gonna prove very much. The shock could be valved differently, the spring might be progressive ( :dunno_white:). Unless you find the vector sums of everything involved, you're not gonna know until you ride it.
If it turns out to be too soft, then you can play around with Buddha's "leverage" (aka, torque) by changing linkage lengths. Based on the same math I just talked about, but only using GS measurements.
That's actually the best way, if you have enough room to add the proper linkage:
Find a better shock with full functionality, then alter the lnkage until it provides the proper support. IF you've got enough under-body room to clear said linkage. Of course, if the linkage-swingarm triangulation is reversed, you'd be shortening (not lengthening), and therefore you wouldn't need to worry about clearance.
If you can find the force needed to compress the shock and spring, I'll talk you through it. Sounds hard, but it's easy as pie. Basic algebra.
You're getting into actual design, not just swapping parts.
Good job, in my opinion.
But, I don't have a junk business that you're threatening.
Just noticed that you've already got the force output of the shock! See, you're so close to an answer!
Just measure the length of the linkages (centered in the middle of the bolt holes), the shock itself, the swingarm (to the center of the hub), the distance from the hub to the center of the tire/ground contact patch, and all their angles (in relation to one another). Plug that into the torque equation along with the shock force output, it'll tell you how well you'll support the front portion of the bike.
Plug in the force output of the stock shock, and it'll give you a comparative.
That way, you've got no need to find the COG, etc.
Draw it up in a picture, and I'll even do the math for you.
Once you have numbers on it, you can adjust the linkage to better apply the force output. What would you rather do: add a centimeter to the linkage (using a great shock) ... or buy whatever the local junk dealer peddles you?
Oh yea, the local junkyards and others dont have any R6 shocks ... period, cos R6's never break or crash ... ever.
Considering I have cleaned out the kat shocks and near about any GSXR shocks in the near abouts of my area ... r6 shocks will be a new item I can find and sell.
So the "local junk dealer" wants to peddle R6 shocks.
Yea, he will design the shock for you cboling. After that you can buy the right shock at the great magic shock store in the sky.
He just needs you to find the weight of the swingarm, wheel, disk etc etc of the R6 and the same for a GS. So yea there you go, that is all you need dude ... Easy.
Cool.
Buddha.
Did I mention it fits really nice?.................... :thumb:
Oh no ... you need to alter the linkage length as wlaziu says.
Sorry man, you cannot be just swapping parts, you need to design it, you need this much damping which means this is the oil viscosity ... my there is a big word right thar ... and you need to squeeze it through this size orifice ... dayyyum ... more big words ... did I even spell that right ... yea like that.
So please provide all the numbers he's asking and 2 decimal places is plenty and he'll design it ... after which you can just have it built for your perfect shock.
You cannot be swapping shocks, and neither can you make bearings seated with some ranrom tools. That also should be designed.
The old, fits in there, ride it down the block ... if it holds up, ride it across town, if that works and is better ... use it ... that really should not be allowed. Its just so primitive and you're playing into the parts peddler's business.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: The Buddha on July 13, 2009, 01:10:12 PM
The old, fits in there, ride it down the block ... if it holds up, ride it across town, if that works and is better Cool.
So, why do you keep busting his balls before he has a chance to ride it?
Cut the guy some slack, Fred Sanford. Give him a chance to ride it first, before you throw in your valuable opinion on whether it's too soft.
He's trying to help us, just like you with your carb business.
You don't like when people find fault with your practices, do you?
Now, if you don't mind, I'm trying to help the guy in the only way I can. No need for a threadjacking flame-war.
The weights aren't very necessary. Just the lengths.
(yeah, it'd be the most precise- using circular acceleration, but this will get you in the ballpark.)
It'll take 20 minutes with a good ruler to find the measurements, and whatever time it takes you with a protractor to find the angles.
It'd take maybe 10 minutes to draw it in MSPaint, since I'm not familiar with the linkage assembly. Or, just take a picture of it.
Give me 15-30 minutes, IF THAT, and I'll tell you whether it'll be too soft.
I'd measure it myself, but frankly, it's not my project.
And, I'm in the middle of making mufflers for you guys.
I've already helped another guy on here with basically the same thing.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=47418.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=47418.0)
Funny, you didn't seem interested then, Mr. Salesman.
Maybe we are complicating this a little too much. I think the important part of what I was hoping for is that:
1. There was an alternative shock that would fit by simply bolting it on. (Mainly because there are simply no aftermarket parts for this bike despite it's world wide popularity.)
2. It would be completely adjustable as far as ride is concerned.
3. It is relatively cheap and easy to find at the moment.
4. It doesn't require any special skills to install. (Literally a bolt in application. I live in an apartment and with Harbor Freight sockets and wrenches, I was done in 10 minutes.)
5. It doesn't raise the bike or lower the bike that I can tell. The side stand and center stand still work exactly as before with no noticeable extra height or lean.
I know this may be a "softer" spring. It feels a little soft when I sit on it. BUT, I am a pretty big guy and the shock is also set at a low range. (Somewhere in the area of 4 and I believe there are quite a few more steps that the adjustment can be moved. I just need a tool!) I also realize that the geometry of the bike could cause the difference in the "softness" or "stiffness" of the spring. (huhuhuh, he said stiffness.)
But all in all, if it works out to be a comfortable ride and a safe ride with the new shock, the we all win, right?
As far as the discussion of measurements and geometry of the bike's linkages, I think it would be good information to gather for the Wiki eventually but for now, it really does come down to ride and try. The sad part is, I can't ride mine just yet. I keep telling myself, "Just a few more days....." Hopefully, someone else liked the idea enough to get one ordered and can try it out for us and let us know the seat of the pants outcome.
Wladziu: You're making mufflers? For bikes? Where can I get more info?
I don know sheite about suspensions (or I wont be bothered to technically dissect them) ...
Visual inspection, then fit and check, then ride round the block, then across town. Tht is my analysis.
Anything more is too complicated ... you know being a simpleton and all.
Cool.
Buddha.
that coil looks just like the gs coil. a katana shock is a direct bolt for me and mine is set to either 1 or 2 and i have about 2-3 of travel.
Damn, who cares if it is not the "ideal" shock. He tried it, likes it, and will run it. When he does and finds out if it is right, we will know.
Quote from: O.C.D. on July 13, 2009, 07:54:50 PM
Damn, who cares if it is not the "ideal" shock. He tried it, likes it, and will run it. When he does and finds out if it is right, we will know.
Exactly!
The ever so popular Kat shock is complete crap and this board is due for an alternative swap.
As Big shot said a few months ago (where is that guy, I miss his comments) QUIT DRINKING THE KOOL-AID. Horay, a Kat shock is stiff...and cheap.
That's it. It has nothing else going for it. It's a cheap shock off of a low budget obsolete sportbike. Compression and rebound dampening are a complete mess. It's non-servicable. It probably costs suzuki $10 to make it. People need to quit raving about how great it is, because it's not.
Let the guy try. Lets see how it works.
Quote from: ineedanap on July 13, 2009, 08:39:50 PM
Let the guy try. Lets see how it works.
Double exactly!
Just trying to help, with the physics, Cboling.
Nothing quiets naysayers better than raw mathematics.
It's a shame for you to be overran by people telling you how it won't work, before you even get a chance to ride it.
Not much of a reason for you to keep helping us, is it?
If it's too soft but you want to keep it, I'm here to help if you wanna try finding correct linkages.
Since you live in an apartment, maybe I can give you the measurements and you can find something cheap. Or somebody here will surely try to make some, to offer as a kit.
But, you're the man with the plan! I'll keep tuning in for updates!
Watch the "For Sale" section for the M word, or PM me.
Otherwise, you'll be severely threadjacked.
Good luck with your rebuild! Loving that headlight bucket. Post more pics!
Quote from: cboling on July 12, 2009, 07:03:38 AM
As for converting the measurements in the last post, I am coming up with 548 lbs / Inch using the 9.8 kg /mm. Can someone else with better math confirm this?
That's also what racetech gives.
Product search -> Street http://www.racetech.com/ (http://www.racetech.com/)
Quote from: cboling on July 12, 2009, 08:48:10 AM
(Thanks goodness I don't have a lot of neighbors with babies.!!! Peeeeeeeewwww!!)
and I am counting 4 free coils.
:icon_lol:
As I see it in the photo the GS shock has 5 free coils and the R6, 4. That make the R6 stiffer... but I also see it might me a little wider and that makes it softer. :D
Do you have measurements for the Yamaha shock?
I can get the measurements for the Yamaha spring a little later today.
Quote from: wladziu on July 13, 2009, 10:11:13 PM
Quote from: ineedanap on July 13, 2009, 08:39:50 PM
Let the guy try. Lets see how it works.
Double exactly!
Just trying to help, with the physics, Cboling.
Nothing quiets naysayers better than raw mathematics.
It's a shame for you to be overran by people telling you how it won't work, before you even get a chance to ride it.
Not much of a reason for you to keep helping us, is it?
Oh yea ... the nay sayers are impressed by the "raw mathematics" ... especially this gem ...
Quote from: wladziu on July 13, 2009, 02:54:00 PM
The weights aren't very necessary. Just the lengths.
Which was of course preceeded by ...
Quote from: wladziu on July 13, 2009, 11:07:24 AM
If you can find the weight of the donor bike, minus swingarm/tire assembly, length of the swingarm and the linkages (center of bolt holes) (and the same for a GS), just plug it into Newtonian two-dimensional vector physics for torque.
Comparative spring rate, based on GS linkages, isn't gonna prove very much. The shock could be valved differently, the spring might be progressive ( :dunno_white:). Unless you find the vector sums of everything involved, you're not gonna know until you ride it.
If it turns out to be too soft, then you can play around with Buddha's "leverage" (aka, torque) by changing linkage lengths. Based on the same math I just talked about, but only using GS measurements.
That's actually the best way, if you have enough room to add the proper linkage:
Find a better shock with full functionality, then alter the lnkage until it provides the proper support. IF you've got enough under-body room to clear said linkage. Of course, if the linkage-swingarm triangulation is reversed, you'd be shortening (not lengthening), and therefore you wouldn't need to worry about clearance.
Yea that's all you need to get it to work ... see its a lot easier to get all this than run it round the block see ... Yea just measure these things from a bike you dont have and even if you did, you cannot measure it without pulling 80% of it apart ... very easy ...
Again, I only posted about my experience with the beefier looking shocks from a GSXR on my sv.
I posted it as a caution before he tosses the GS shock or destroys it getting the R6 one to work like pulling springs and what not, or something like that.
Unlike you I dont start asking for the impossible before making a suggestion to people. I ran the kat shock a few years (before the net showed up in the real sense of the world - 95-98) ... then I posted about it when this site showed up in its previous iteration. I actually sold a few in 98/99 to the old mailing list we had ... if anyone remembers that. In effect I only buy them when people have asked me ... and in case you didn't know ... I am loaning some tools and stuff to cboling as we speak.
You can post all the obscure crap you want and ask for weights and lengths of assemblies and what not Wladizu ... its all well and good in theory but,
In the real world, where the vast many of us who dont have the benifit of a "few missing screws" have to live ... that information isn't easy to get, nor is it neccesary ... and if cboling needed his shock tested, I'm sure he's gonna find a willing accomplice to come over to his place on a GS and ride around. If I had a shock I had to run, guess what, I'd call lopee, or one of the other locals I got and get my shock on their bike and get them to ride it a few hours/days and tell me.
Effectively, all the unknowns will disappear if you ride it.
I can ask for compression ratio, the flow rates of the heads, the flow rates of the pipes, the carburetor exact orifice dimensions and all the other in calculable parameters before suggesting jets to people. However its easier and cheaper to tell em to run 125/40/1/3 turns ... and try it, if it feels rich/lean etc, just adjust after by feel.
Before I landed on 125/40 ... I copied it out of the canadian spec section in the suzuki manual.
Essentially, throw it on, try it first in your safety zone, and then ever larger circles till you are confident in it.
Once again ... try it but dont destroy the GS shock, it may well be what you have to fall back upon ... though the local Junk peddler could bail you out ... in a pinch ... pay for postage and the gs shock I gots laying about can be send over in a jif.
Cool.
Buddha.
The first thing I actually did was to throw the old shock away. :icon_eek: I was thinking that I had everything I needed with this new one. I am glad in a sense that everyone HAS posted the counterpoints, not to the affect of fueling any tensions. And I am glad I was able to dig the old shock out of the garbage just in case.
I believe both of you have very valid points and interestingly enough, I can't find the specifics on the stock GS Shock, (they may be there, I am just not smart enough to create the correct search string or too lazy to keep reading after a few hours) so if we can put some of the math to good use and get a specific bit of information that others may need down the road, that would be good.
Buddha: You bring up a good point. I wonder if the GS spring could replace this spring to provide a better "feel" if the R6 spring is indeed too soft? Lamoun mentioned that the spring might be softer because of the diameter and fewer coils on the R6 and I have seen the other posts online that seem to suggest that even at the highest settings on the R6, it just didn't provide enough preload to make the shock "feel" right. For lighter weight riders, this might not be a problem whatsoever. But with me being nearly 250, everything on this bike is probably going to wince under teh pressure. :sad:
I know that swapping the spring over might be dangerous but just a thought.
Oh, well I thought I could swap the sv spring into my GSXR body ... I am yet to do that, but someone on the sv site has tried it and it has not worked like intended.
The 1 step up type of upgrade sometimes fails for the bike that is at the top of the respective food chain. SV650's love the 1000 shock. In effect, I would be destroying a $100 shock to try to save a 25 dollar shock if I ruin the sv 1000 shock.
Anyway, good you have the GS shock as back up ... :D
In your situation, I'd find a local with a GS and enlist his/her butt for a few days, toss the shock in his/her bike and have him/her test it for you.
Then of course you can if they'd let you ride theirs ... simplest way to get it tested IMHO. Spring swap - maybe I can pull the spring off a GS shock and send you that ... Does the R6 one unscrew ... if so, you can fit it yourself.
Cool.
Buddha.
I remember I read that somewhere... cboling take a look at this thread, bottom 1st, and 2nd page.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46393.msg526977#msg526977 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=46393.msg526977#msg526977)
ecpreston got this.
GS Stock rear spring ('02 model FWIW)
0.394 inches (10mm) wire diameter
2.44 inch (62mm) coil diameter
5 free coils
=8.7 kg/mm (487 lbs/in)
So you are probably a bit stiffer than the GS, not as much as the Katana though.
Mind you, I am 190lbs without gear, and I find the Katana shock (~10.9 Kg/mm) too stiff for my taste.
Hope you ride it soon!
Heh ...@ 230 lb, I feel I over load the kat.
I felt great on the GSXR one I had on the red bike recently ... though the damn side stand didn't work right, the center stand wasn't great either, the remote res kept breaking its zip tie ... etc etc etc ... Yea I had to shave everythign in sight to even get it on there .. swingarm, linkage ... everything.
These are all less than ideal, but if you want to really get one that has all the advantages (R6 experiment result pending) you may have to build one, or buy the haghon or other euro stuff.
I think the kat is a good compromise, as is the GSXR ... especially cos its near about bolt and run.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thanks lamoun. My valve parts are finally on the way so hopefully before the end of day Sunday, I will have a chance to try and crank it over to see if it will start.
Oh man, you put a R6 shock and it blew out the valves. Dayyyyyum that one serious shock.
Cool.
Buddha.
Quote from: joshr08 on July 11, 2009, 09:14:56 PM
just so you know after talking to some guys over on the kat page the R6 shock is junk for a swap because of a weaker spring rate so i have been told.
Uh huh, for the Kat...which has like, what; 50-75lbs on the GS. And I guess you guys forgot about my thread a few months ago when I mentioned it. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=47718.0
Well there you go. There really is nothing new under the sun. :D Did you ever try the swap yourself? If so, did it work out in the end as far as ride and adjustments?
Average is running a kat shock and waiting for some magic parts to drop from the buddha's basket ... I have watched presidents die waiting for stuff like dat ...
Cool.
Buddha.
Any new update on this yet?
Not from mine yet. I am waiting on a shock adjustment wrench in the mail so that I can set the preload correctly. I just got the last parts in to get my bike running so hopefully by Sunday, I will have a happy running bike.
There was another user here that installed one but had some difficulty getting it in. I didn't have the same difficulty but I also had the brake stay arm off my swingarm so, that may have given me more room to maneuver. Not sure.
EDIT: Here is a link to the other user's thread. http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=49270.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=49270.0)
Like the other one, I am bumping for info!!!
I am still trying to get my carbs to cooperate with me. Tore them apart to find a deteriorated o-ring so I gave up on it for a couple days while I am trying to decide to order a carb kit or just hunt down a tiny tiny o-ring and move on. I think I am going out this evening to find the tiny tiny o-ring (if possible) at the local auto parts or lowes.
So far, I think it will be a good shock however, I looked (while working on the carbs) and saw that the spring does seem to touch the swing arm. So that may be strike #1 on this one.
Quote from: The Buddha on July 14, 2009, 11:35:45 AM
Heh ...@ 230 lb, I feel I over load the kat.
...
Cool.
Buddha.
To tell you the truth, in theory the spring is just right for me {35mm rider sag - 5mm free sag}, and riding on flat roads it feels nice.. but I feel it harsh on my "roady bumps".. :icon_lol: :icon_lol:
Just an update.
I have finally been riding my bike (maybe half a dozen times.) Since I don't have the original shock to compare the new one to, I won't be able to give a really great review on this but what I can say is that this shock feels really nice. Now again, I am not a really reliable person to ask mainly because I don't have the experience to compare however, as for rough roads, bumps, humps, holes, and such that I have come across, it really feels great. And, I know right now I don't even have it set to it's maximum potential for my weight. So I believe it can only improve from there.
I recently purchased the Sonic .95kg springs for the front forks and again, didn't ride the originals. (Just fooling around in the parking lot, I could tell that there was waaaaaaay too much movement on the stock ones for my weight.) As many have said, these are absolutely a must. The feel of the bike with both updated shocks and fork springs really make this bike feel solid. Keep in mind, I am a solid 245-250 / 6'1.5" and with gear, probably pushing 260ish lbs.
It really is just an absolute treat!
After I saw posts by others about the spring hitting the swing arm, I did some inspection on mine and found that the swing arm does touch (and I mean just barely) the last coil of the shock. I haven't ground down the swingarm on mine just yet and really don't feel any negative issues by not doing that. Eventually, I will take off the swingarm and grind that area just to be safe.
All in all, you will not go wrong with this shock but apparently, they have been harder to come by. At least, if you have to spend some dough on an after market, you can pretty well know that the R6 shock will work.
Cheers.
CB