for those that take this gs to track. what sprocket settings do you have?
right now i have 14t and stock rear. This actually allows me to stay at 3rd on turns going about 70-75mph on sweeping turns with still a 3-4k left before hitting redline... then when i switch to fourth..it seems to drop to 6k rpm which is not in the power range .. for my gs i think its around 7-9k.
is there a better setup in the rear sprocket that would allow me to be around 70-80 on sweeping turns on 3rd then switch to 4th that would be 7k start as oppose to 6k?
I actually like the stock gearing :dunno_white: I never have a problem finding power when I need it (unless I accidentally get into the wrong gear or forget to shift!)
you already have pretty low gearing with the 14 tooth. To raise the rpms up from 6k to 7k at a given speed would require an even lower gear. If you go even lower you might not like what you find.
I'm with ecpreston on this one. I can always find power when I need it. I run a 15/43 which is basically your 14/39 but didn't mind the stock gearing either.
It sounds to me like you're worrying too much about your rpms going too high. It's making your shifts too early and causing the rpms to go too low.
If it was me, I'd worry much less about staying between the 7-9k rpm range you're trying to keep the bike in. If you're not satisfied with the power at 6k rpm then basically do whatever it takes to make your next shift end up at 7k rpm. If it means holding some gears to 10k, so what. The bike is still making lots of power at 10k. It's not going to hurt the bike and since you won't be bogged down at 6k with your next shift you'll be faster overall. Just keep it out of the red.
Gearing depends on the track.
For the 1 mile long straight at BIR I run a 16-37 combo, and still bounce of the rev limiter tipping it into Turn 1
Quote from: coll0412 on July 29, 2009, 09:39:21 PMFor the 1 mile long straight at BIR I run a 16-37 combo, and still bounce of the rev limiter tipping it into Turn 1
We have rev limiters? I wouldn't consider valve float a rev limiter... though, it kind of is..... :icon_razz:
thanks for your input. i will keep that in mind. thanks again.
I have a rev-limiter on mine, Dynatek DRL-400 two stage limiter
wring the living piss out of the bike :icon_twisted:
shift at 11k
take the damn speedo off the bike (it just messes with your mind)
WFO is the only way to get around the track
you need to be WFO or hard on the brakes
or you are wasting time
take your skirt off and put on some leathers :icon_lol:
Hey Bluehaze, I have a question about your GS:
Did you ever rejet the carbs? If not, you're running the risk of burning your exhaust valves (or a LOT worse); I don't see it mentioned in the list of mods you've made:
"2008 GS500F Modification: Fenderectomy. Additional LED Brake Lights. Blue Underlighting Kit. Grills on the Fairing. K&N Drop in Filter. Laser Deeptone 2-1 Exhaust. Rear Kellerman Turn Signal. 14T sprocket. Carbon Fiber Race pegs. SM2 handlebar."
Nothing about rejetting; did you not mention it, or not get it done yet?
Fill us in, OK?
yea i bought the dyno jet kit. some mechanic charged me 250 plus to get it in. i have no idea what he did.. i was really really new when i got my bike rejetted. i basically knew nothing about the bike.. only through the forum that when you get a exhaust you need to rejet. so thats what i did.
I'm setup for Loudon / NHMS with 16/44 gearing. I can't quite wring 6th out down the front straight.
gsnoober you listed everything in bluehazes sig except the dyno jet kit. not that that is rejetting but its kinda like rejetting.
I was reading through the modifications on the Dyno Jet kit for the GS's.
What's the purpose of drilling holes in the plastic slides for the Dyna Jet kit? Is this suppose to improve the slide response to throttle?
QuoteI was reading through the modifications on the Dyno Jet kit for the GS's.
What's the purpose of drilling holes in the plastic slides for the Dyna Jet kit? Is this suppose to improve the slide response to throttle?
dont get Dyno jet kit! there hard to tune and dont work well for any thing other than stock bike
Quote from: black and silver twin on November 05, 2009, 10:59:48 PM
dont get Dyno jet kit! there hard to tune and dont work well for any thing other than stock bike
Really???
I'm not a fan of Dyno Jet kits in general. I used to have a '82 CB900F; the Dyno Jet kit for that bike included a drill for enlarging a non-removeable part in the 4 carbs. The kit was (in)famous for reliably blowing up engines at the 20K mile mark.
Quote from: ineedanap on November 06, 2009, 06:38:41 AM
Quote from: black and silver twin on November 05, 2009, 10:59:48 PM
dont get Dyno jet kit! there hard to tune and dont work well for any thing other than stock bike
Really???
really, the needles they come with will sometimes give a lean/flat spot, then if you tune the flat spot out it runs too rich in the top end. plus the jet sizes are not standard and dont match up with mikuni sizes making future tuning damn near impossible. just do a jet search on this forum or look in the wiki and find out what jets you need for your mods then buy them, individual jets cost $2-3 apiece where as the dyno jet kit is ~$100 and comes with 10 or so indecipherable jets. the stock needles can be adjusted to work much better than DJ needles for 1 or 2, 5 cent washers.
Oopps! I cursed in my last post, I thought the forum automatically filtered/edited them out! my bad