I was going to do a quick and dirty swap when I finally got around to putting in my Progressive Suspension springs. Then I opened the forks. Whoo-ee, I've never smelled fork oil that bad - almost like the forks had been dieseling (burnt smell). Nasty, filthy shaZam!. Too dirty for me to leave it, by far; Thus, not very quick.
Went down to the the local dealer to grab some 15W fork oil - they have fork oil, and cartridge fluid, and the fork oil is either 5W or 10W. fsck it, I don't want to wait even longer while I order 15W in from elsewhere. Got the 10W. By the looks of what came out of there, if I still want it stiffer, changing the fork oil again soon might not be such a bad thing. If I stop bottoming on the railroad crossing, 10W with new springs will suit fine, if I still do, I'll swap it out.
Drained crap (pumped, etc.) Put in some ATF (cheap, oily product), put the cap back on, pumped springless fork tube for a while, poured that out filthy. Estimated an amount I could use from the liter of fork oil (expensive oily product) and still have more than enough to fill the forks, poured that in, did the same thing, poured that out dirty. Did not fully disassemble forks - seals are not leaking at this time.
Went to check fork oil level (Progressive spec, no spring in, 140mm from top). Recalled a hint about using a cardboard dipstick. Cut some out. Thought - hm, this might wick, and will be useless if I overfill. Grabbed dipstick from crankcase (cover hole if you are prone to dropping things in) and scratched a mark at 140 MM - not the easiest thing to use with clean oil (no hash-embossing to hold oil up that high) but functional with care and good light - and it's right there on the bike.
No test ride yet - still need to swap old chain before it ruins new front sprocket, and waffle about whether to change rear sprocket while I'm there (and before I cut the 120 link new chain down). Also past time to flush out the brakes.
I have used a zip tie as a dipstick. All the zippy lines hold the oil well. It shows up fine even on a black dip tie. Zip stick. Whatever.
and zip ties hold my bike together, totally appropriate.
You can always make your own fork oil tool.
Take a turkey basting needle (comes on the marinade bottle), a short length of clear hose (fish tank air hose is good), and then some rigid brake line (about 12 inches).
If the brake line is flared with couplings on it cut off one end and slip the fittings off, stick the cut end into the hose. Stick the other end of the hose onto the syringe (toss the needle), you set your depth by measuring up the brake line and placing a zip tie.
pour your fork oil into the tubes and then using your new fork tool you set the level by drawing out any liquid that is above your preset level. Total cost is under $10 if you have to buy everything or less if you have things on hand.
Your creation should look something like this only much cheaper :)
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0121/
BTW don't use the injector needle for food use again. :nono:
Nailed the one side first go just pouring it and a using dipstick. Had to pour a little out of the second one twice and go back to filling more carefully to hit it. Not worth making a tool for the job given that the job doesn't take that long without a tool for it, and it's not a frequent job.
Quote from: blade on August 01, 2009, 10:29:20 AM
BTW don't use the injector needle for food use again. :nono:
Psh fork oil adds flavor! Although I prefer 5W with my turkey.
I do like the idea for the rig though.
QuoteNot worth making a tool for the job given that the job doesn't take that long without a tool for it, and it's not a frequent job.
Your right it really is not a big deal without one, but I have three bikes and anything that speeds up basic maintenance is a plus.