I need the electrical part of the ignition switch - specifically, I need the black contact plate with 4 wires coming out of it. This is inside the bottom of the lock assembly, held in place by those annoying theft-resistant screws, which I suspect you could drill out to extract it (or carefully grind off along with the ears of the metal part of the bottom), if you had an ignition switch with non-electrical problems sitting around taking up space. Or you could ship me the whole switch, but in that case I'm going to be somewhat unhappy if I get it open and find the same problem I have with mine (main power contact somewhat destroyed and the wire fell off).
Inside the bottom of the part marked 13 & 15 on this drawing. Should have 7 shiny copper bits on the face. The one formerly connected to the red wire is all destroyed-looking, and the one near that is partially destroyed - 19 years of arcing in use, and/or weather getting in. At first I thought I could just resolder it, but I see that's not really an option given the way it failed.
(http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0083_029.gif)
If bike bandit is to be believed (and why not?) Suzuki only sells an entire new switch assembly (which presumably won't match the other locks on the bike) for nearly $100 - if that's my only option, I'll be installing a hotwire switch somewhere and figuring the fork lock will do as well at keeping it from being ridden off as anything needs to, since the real bike thieves are hopefully not interested, and pick them up without needing to ride them off anyway. Given that the park position is not needed for inspection here, I might also just tie orange, brown and grey together and move the red/orange wires to the (perfectly fine) brown/grey contacts. Could even put in a parking light switch (red-bown) if I want it. But if someone (racers?) has a removed switch, or had to replace a switch for a broken lock, it would be nicer to fix it right. Hmmm - I guess that kludge is somewhat straightforward, and would get me running. <grabs soldering iron and wirecutters>[hours later - hey, that worked - but it means all the current for the bike is going though the gray/brown wires, which are clearly thinner than the red/orange ones meant for the job, though I have not felt them getting warm yet.]
Interesting timing on the failure - no notable trouble here, swapped fork springs and oil, swapped chain and sprockets, went to start bike, totally dead - WTF :cookoo: - didn't have a problem when I parked it...must have pulled on the wire just a little bit more with fiddling the forks in and out, though the contact failure is clearly of long progression.
This less than a week after my truck up and died (well, had a collection of failures the repair cost of which was considerably more than the truck was worth, given the way the body was rotting out, this being the northeast and elderly vehicles that run in the winter not lasting terribly long). Ugh.