I am back in my carbs trying to see what I missed. Cleaning the needle jet is one thing I missed. How do you get that thing to budge? I dont want to damage anything. I read the thing about hitting with a hammer but it didnt quite makie sense. How do you hit it with a hammer when it is recessed withoput damaging the threads of the brass? I am referring to the tube that is set in the plastic slide guide in case i am using the wrong terminology.
Anyone got some tricks?
The walkthrough online said to unscrew the jet most of the way, and then tap that with a hammer, which would knock it loose. I was way too afraid to mess up any of the threads by doing that, so I took one of the other bolts and screwed it well into the needle jet. I forget which ones, but either the ones that hold the top cover on, or the float bowl onto the main body are the same thread size. You can screw them plenty far enough into the jet to feel find tapping it with a hammer until it knocks loose without hurting anything.
THanks. I will start looking for a screw that fits and give it a try. I was not so hot on using the jet either. I got the other one off and man was it dirty so this one must be disgusting...
TT FOUR! YOU ROCK. It's the float bowl screw and it worked flawlessly. I cant even describe how disgusting it was. It was like a crap cake at the bottom. 4 out of 8 holes plugged solid. Thanks man. I am very new to carb jobs so I appreciate the quick response. Thanks!
Good call on replace instead of clean if you see corrosion.
The hole sizes are subject to change when they get some corrosion, the brass turns to expanded crap and closes the hole, then you clean that out and its bigger than was at first.
I read you can fill them and drill new holes, but that might be hard for other than a single hole jet.
No problem, I just went through my first carb rebuild about 2 months ago, so I know how you feel. I took forever and followed the walk through in details to make sure I did it perfect. Now that I've got them back together and know how they work I feel like I could do the whole process in an hour, so take your time and you'll be on top of it in no time.
One of my needle jets was starting to turn a little green. Not really corroded, just a little patina. cleaned right off, and my bike runs amazing compared to what they used to. If I knew how much a good carb cleaning could do this GS never would've been parked in a shed for 4 years.
I didn't have to mess with any of the holes too much, but I pulled one of the teeth out of a wire brush and just poked them all clean with that.
You can usually clean the emulsion tubes, BTW that is their technical name, and put new O rings in the bottom of the guide.
If its boogered up and you wanna swap ... I'll sell ya one for 5 and shipping. But I'd clean it and do O rings. Easy, I do it all the time. 10 just this week, and its only monday.
Cool.
Buddha.
So is the needle jet the same as the emulsion tubes or no? I actually got the holes cleaned out pretty good with a plastic toothpick. The O-ring looked mostly ok, but I am interested in having some on hand. What do they run? Also, do you sell a gasket/O ring kit for the whole carb? Mine are original so they are pretty close to done. And since I will be doing this eventually too, what does a jet kit for a stock 94 run?
Also, is it worth pulling out the mixture screws for cleaning? or is it usually good enough to just pull out the pilot jet and clean them? My bike is stock, so if I do mess with them, what is the factory # of turns out?
Thanks guys, wish me luck. Hopefully she runs great tomorrow when I put her back together. I would like to get back on the road before the snow gets here!!
Jet pack 25 shipped, O ring pack 10 shipped, and both together 33 shipped for 94.
The emulsion tube is the brass tube you yanked out. The needle is an obstruction in that emulsion tube. Thinner neelde = richer, so we lift the bugger up to richen with washer.
Air screw - well if you do remove it be very careful and dont lose its spring, washer and O ring. Bloody hell, I dont sell them O rings. In fact leave the thing alone on second thought.
Cool.
Buddha.
Thought I would throw some pictures of the emulsion tubes I got out in case anyone wanted to see. I am guessing this is why my GS was running like crap. Rich, idle all over, lack of power ect. Here is a question. My tank has some rust issues, but I do have a rather new fuel filter and the carbs were done in June by a shop. Could this much junk show up in only about 300 miles?? I have a feeling they didnt clean them at all...
http://www.photodump.com/kroger191/a50d9b6600607c3e.JPG.html
http://www.photodump.com/kroger191/73225e385aa9a940.JPG.html
http://www.photodump.com/kroger191/e9dd40afeabfa202.JPG.html
Whoa, those pictures make me feel good about the condition my carbs were in. Clean those things up!
Just got them back on. Started well. Idled well. As soon as I put a load on or reved it up over 45-5000 it it was burping and crap. Checked the plugs. Both still carbon fouled (just replaced them) I have a few ideas. Either my floats are off somehow (even though i already checked them and the looked pretty good), but i dont know how that happens out of no where or maybe my carbs are out of balance. Either way. Unless anyone has some brighe ideas I may be trying out a new shop. I can't go much longer without this thing running. Man this is disappointing with all the junk I have done and learned over the last few days.
Send it to me, I should be able to fix it.
The things looked bad, but you got em clean and brassy looking right ?
Cool.
Buddha.