Hi, i just bought a 96 GS500E, it didn't run when i got it. The bike looks like it should be all stock from factory (no modifications) but i'm not sure. I removed the gas tank and drained the old fuel, took the carbs apart and cleaned them, they were really dirty and i bought a new battery. I got it to start, and i adjusted the idle. When i rev the engine, sometimes the rpms will stick at around 4,000 rpms, sometimes it will come back down to 1,500 rpms but sometimes it just stays at 4,000. I've ridden it a few times and after about 5-10 mins it will just cut off, I try to restart it but it doesn't want to start it just cranks and almost trys to start but doesn't. I had to push it home, luckily it was only a few blocks away from my house. When i was ridding it i did notice it was really sluggish under 3,000 rpms.
I've read some of this forum and i see some posts about similar problems, so from what i'm reading it seems like i should get bigger jets, 125/40 with a #4 washer and 3 turns. Does anyone how many turns out for the air screws for stock jets? Also i've heard of problems with the fuel switch on the frame, that might be the problem.
Anyone have these problems and what did you do to fix it? Thanks
First off, welcome to the forum. Do you know Ryanme17? He was just looking at a 96 which idled high.
Anyway, did you let the bike warm up properly? Our GS's don't like running cold. Does the high idle only happen when using the choke?
QuoteWhen i was ridding it i did notice it was really sluggish under 3,000 rpms.
Sure it's sluggish under 3K rpm. Most find the sweet spot bewteen 5K and 7K. Remember, our bikes have a redline past 10K rpm.
-Porkchop
Quote from: SonicCycle on September 02, 2009, 02:00:17 PM
Hi, i just bought a 96 GS500E, it didn't run when i got it. The bike looks like it should be all stock from factory (no modifications) but i'm not sure. I removed the gas tank and drained the old fuel, took the carbs apart and cleaned them, they were really dirty and i bought a new battery. I got it to start, and i adjusted the idle. When i rev the engine, sometimes the rpms will stick at around 4,000 rpms, sometimes it will come back down to 1,500 rpms but sometimes it just stays at 4,000. I've ridden it a few times and after about 5-10 mins it will just cut off, I try to restart it but it doesn't want to start it just cranks and almost trys to start but doesn't. I had to push it home, luckily it was only a few blocks away from my house. When i was ridding it i did notice it was really sluggish under 3,000 rpms.
I've read some of this forum and i see some posts about similar problems, so from what i'm reading it seems like i should get bigger jets, 125/40 with a #4 washer and 3 turns. Does anyone how many turns out for the air screws for stock jets? Also i've heard of problems with the fuel switch on the frame, that might be the problem.
Anyone have these problems and what did you do to fix it? Thanks
This is EXACTLY what Im dealing with right now on my '96 :mad:
What I dont understand is why it came on all the sudden. I rode this
bike for 3 months before this happened. I let it warm up totally, then adjust the
idle to about 1400. When I roll out, the bike speed shifts through the gears.
I have to brake to bring the idle down. It idles very ruff, too. Not like
when I first got it. When I was poking around today, I found a hose coming
off the left underside of the tank. ITs routed over the carbs and on mine, it
was just dangling. What bothers me is it has a zip-tie on the end of it.
It doesnt smell like gas, and when the bike idles, plugging it doesnt make
any difference. Nobody would zip-tie the dead end of a drain hose, though...
When I look at carb diagrams, I cant see this hose anywhere. WTF ?!?!?
This is driving me nuts and I consider the bike unrideable at this point.
When I came home from the shop on monday, I had to feather the gas at
the lites to keep it running cuz I turned the screw all the way down so it would
do 4k every time I wanted to stop or shift. :dunno_black:
Thanks, I don't know Ryanme17, i haven't meet anyone from this website yet. yeah i let it warm up before i adjusted the idle and the choke was off.
Quote from: Porkchop on September 02, 2009, 02:35:50 PM
Sure it's sluggish under 3K rpm. Most find the sweet spot bewteen 5K and 7K. Remember, our bikes have a redline past 10K rpm.
-Porkchop
Slight threadjack: If it's sluggish below 3k, sweet spot is between 5k and 7k, and the redline is over 10k, where does the power curve start to level? At what point do these bikes running optimally start to not produce more power? (Example: A 1992 Nissan 240SX starts to get gutless at about 5200-5500.) Does it produce cleanly through redline, or does power start to fall off 500 to 1500 revs below redline?
There are dyno charts somewhere, but yeah, the power tails off around 9000 RPMs.
Sonic cycle - you're lean and sucking air possibly. Test for air leaks with wd40 test, check for clogged crap (pilot and air screw holes mainly) and if all else id spot on, rejet. You're going to need 40/125/3 turns/1 washer for a full on stock bike.
Porkchop - Sluggish below 3K suggests rich, but define sluggish ... in a way you can over jet down low if you have floats that are worn too high ... but of course you may be lean with jetting ... odd paradox that.
I recently rode a GS I was working on for someone, it smelled like gas most of the time when running, especially when accelerating from low speeds. Of course at higher speeds there is so much air flying under your butt that you wont smell a thing. Presumably its rich everywhere ... but it was all from the float going high.
The jetting itself was a shade lean, but it was almost too close to be able to tell. On steady throttle it would work great, but between 1/4 and 1/2 throttle it was very soft on acceleration. Below and above that it would work OK, but its still better to set it all right with jetting than with floats.
Cool.
Buddha.