so I fired the GS up for the first time after the wreck just to keep the carbs limber and noticed an odd issue. When I revved the bike up to anything above idle, I would hear/feel a tick/clack and then the revs would drop immediately after, if I revved higher, it would be more frequent, but still intermittent. It did not do this before the wreck
any thoughts?
as soon as I get the bike rolling again, its going to the shop for a good once over. Hopefully I can get this issue resolved before it gets there.
**Update 10/10/09**
Got the left side cover off the bike, no magnet fragments. In fact the only thing I can see is one piece of the resin on top of one of the magnets has flaked off. I'll get pics up this afternoon. At this point I am thinking failing starter clutch, any thoughts on that? When I spin the gear on the clutch clockwise (as you face the rotor), it freewheels, when I spin it counter clockwise it locks up. IIRC, that's what the clutch is supposed to do. Anything else to check for?
Next question. the bolt that holds the rotor to the crank. How the HECK do you get it busted loose?? The clymer manual says nothing about having to provide any counter torque to the rotor. Thoughts, suggestions?
Once the bolt is off, suggestions on removing the rotor? I was thinking slide hammer from autozone and just using the 3 claw attachment to pop it off
**Update end of 10/11/09**
Replaced the side cover as the starter clutch checked out. Cant start the bike due to a flat battery. However that is the least of my problems. Since the root cause of the tick and rev drop was not found, we're still looking. The bike is presenting a problem I didnt notice or was oblivious to till this afternoon. The clutch will not disengage. we've adjusted it via the instructions from the clymer manual several times this afternoon but the darn thing just wont let go. My buddy will be out of town next weekend so it will be 2 weeks before I get to crack the right cover off to inspect the clutch. Until then, anyone willing to offer up any speculation as to what the issue could be? We checked clutch cable routing, tension and adjustment, everything, it just wont let go. >:(
what side did you drop on?
both actually, there are new scratches on both sides on the engine covers. when I nailed the curb, bike had enough energy to sorta pirouette gouge the pillon rider handle on the left side and then finally came to rest on its right side
I was reading this thread http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41660.0 (http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=41660.0) and I wonder if I have a lean misfire condition
First off, it has been the first really cool day in Ga when I cranked her over. History on the bike. Bike came from the PO with a full V&H exhaust, stock air cleaner and has never been rejetted. I'm wondering if the cool day plus the lack of rejetting is causing a lean misfire as Buddah indicated in the above thread and its rather independent of my wreck. I'm just really hoping its something along these lines rather than something broken in the engine or transmission
Thoughts?
If I do need to re-jet, what would be a good setup for just an V&H exhaust? I've seen plenty for V&H plus a K&N filter but honestly, stockish power is plenty for me to learn on/get in trouble with. I just want my bike to run well. My 68 mustang has mixture adjustments which can be altered for varying air densities. Do the carbs on the GS500 have something similar. I'd hate to have to re-jet for every season.
Their are mixture screws on the bottom of the carbs that can be used to change the mixture slightly for the different seasons but they are behind brass plugs that need to be drilled out first so you will have to take the carbs off the bike to be able to access them. I would suggest rejetting the bike with a carb pack from buddha for the exhaust since the bike tends to run slightly lean from stock and by changing the exhaust you have only made it leaner. It is simple to change out the jets in the carbs and since you will have to pull them off the bike to drill out the brass caps you might as well jet the bike so that it isn't running lean.
The previous owner got the bike with the exhaust already on it, but no re-jet. Said it ran like crap. He took it in to the local suzuki dealer for its 12000 mile service and had them get it running right. Now I dont know what they did but the 2 times I rode it, the bike ran like a champ, no misfires or popping on engine braking. The invoice said nothing about re-jetting the carb, so I dont know. Only 2 things have changed since my last ride. 1. the crash and 2. it got far cooler (10-15° cooler)
I'm defintiely going to check the aircleaner and perhaps the intake tubes for the carb to make sure they arent cracked and allowing some air in.
I just hope its a fuel problem and not something mechanical in the power train
If you knocked something out in the right side like the ignition advancer bits, you can have a misfire type problem.
Same can happen if you knocked a ground wire just loose enough to make a intermittent failure.
Carbs also can get floats or stuff clogged when you drop it, you also can get your air filter clogged with gas.
Other than that you're OK ... :cookoo:
Cool.
Buddha.
so an inspection/cleaning of the induction system would be a good idea plus an inspection of the ignition system. As far as inspecting the ingition system, what should I be looking for?
I'll check the clymer on how to do that stuff tonight
So I cranked the bike up again tonight and tried to replicate the problem. This time I could actually feel the tap/clicking just under where the shifter goes into the crank case. When I feel the clack, the revs sometimes drop for just an instant while others it loses power for a second or two. It does it regardless of clutch engagement. It definitely felt mechanical. I just have no idea what would cause this.
If the transmission were trying to go into gear the engine would just stall, or make a horrible grinding noise then stall
I also managed to get it into a high gear just standing still with the clutch pulled in. When trying to go back to first/neutral, it really didnt want to shift back. I rocked back and forth to see if it was the gears just not meshing, but that didnt help. I just kept rocking back and forth and finally was able to get it to drop back down. Once I get the new forks on it and in rollable condition, its going to the shop. However, if this new info triggers other ideas as to what could be wrong, please pass them along. I'm concerned about having to do like 1500 bucks worth of labor on a bike I paid 1650 for (got a great deal and that really adds insult to injury)
ok i dont wanna sound like an ass but if you dont figure the problem out and just keep running the bike you can just look for a new motor instead of looking for the problem. drain the oil and pull some side covers off see whats slapping around in there before you really cause a major problem.
alright, alright, I'll stop running it till I do some "cold" diagnostics
since you feel it on the left side of the bike, i would start with removing your stator cover, and being sure none of you magnets came loose on your "whatever its called??" that spins around the stator. you may not need a new gasket, but I would also check on the right side under the suzuki emblem, and make sure the ignition pickups arent damaged
Goooooaaaaaatsssss ..... sssssssss ....
Cool.
Buddha.
http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=13606.0
There you go. Lots of hits searching for goats.
Cool.
Buddha.
bump for 10/11 update in original post
I don't think its the starter clutch... otherwise you wouldn't be able to start the bike using the ignition. If it were the starter clutch, well there are a few threads about that but the most common problem is the bolt that you're trying to loosen somehow becomes loose. Then you need to re-tighten it. In order to do that, put a penny (or some such) in the gears to stop them from spinning, apply locktite, and use breaker bar generously.
I would imagine that if you want to continue on the path of removing the bolt, the above directions would work just apply torque in the opposite direction.
Quote from: NF11624 on October 11, 2009, 11:40:44 AM
I don't think its the starter clutch... otherwise you wouldn't be able to start the bike using the ignition. If it were the starter clutch, well there are a few threads about that but the most common problem is the bolt that you're trying to loosen somehow becomes loose. Then you need to re-tighten it. In order to do that, put a penny (or some such) in the gears to stop them from spinning, apply locktite, and use breaker bar generously.
I would imagine that if you want to continue on the path of removing the bolt, the above directions would work just apply torque in the opposite direction.
Sounds reasonable, buttoned thed bike up to run it to show my coworker the noise, but in trying to do so, the bike's clutch wont disengage. Now I dont know if its been doing this since the wreck or just since my buddy and I've started working on it. I am looking for speculation or ideas. Look to my 10/11 update for complete details
Well, if you boogered the clutch pushrod mechanism when you had the left side cover (and presumably the sprocket cover, which has the clutch pushrod mechanism in it) off, you might have mucked it up that way. All you have to pull is the sprocket cover to check that. Pages 204-5 of the Clymer. Is part #19 of diagram #6 missing? Is the cable not connected?
Quote from: DoD#i on October 11, 2009, 05:52:04 PM
Well, if you boogered the clutch pushrod mechanism when you had the left side cover (and presumably the sprocket cover, which has the clutch pushrod mechanism in it) off, you might have mucked it up that way. All you have to pull is the sprocket cover to check that. Pages 204-5 of the Clymer. Is part #19 of diagram #6 missing? Is the cable not connected?
Yeah, we adjusted the clutch cable at all 3 places by the clymer instructions 3 or 4 times, cant really remember at this point. The only thing I can think of is that the engine/transmission sat without oil for 24 hrs due to the left side cover inspection and the wet clutch isnt so wet anymore and the plates are sticking. Any validity to this thought?
Did refill the oil, but was unable to start the bike due to a flat battery. Got the battery on a trickle. Will try and get the bike started and warmed up and exercise the clutch a bit to try and loosen it up.