I'll will be going out to look at the bike from DE. http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/mcy/1372423749.html
My impulsive nature is winning over. :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
As long as it's not sold by the time I get there it might me mine.
Please give me a list of things to look out for so I am prepared. I don't know if I can get someone to go with me.
Thanks ---again
As well as whatever else gets posted here, give this a once over http://www.clarity.net/~adam/buying-bike.html
If the bike has been laid down there WILL be other scratches besides exhaust. Check the ends of the indicators. The bar end knob. The end of the front brake lever. The rear cowling on the exhaust side. Have the scratches been left as is or does it look like someone has tried to polish them out? Are the scratches running the length of the exhaust or go up down? The outside edge of the righthand mirror. Even a small driveway drop should have cosmetic damage to those parts.
Footpegs. You'll want to check them for scraping.
Chicken strips on the tires. Most people will have them because most don't ride to the extreme needed to wear them away.
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/43/Chicken_strips.jpg/480px-Chicken_strips.jpg)
You don't want bent frame
(http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g61/BKappa2006/DSC00875.jpg)
So do make sure you stand behind it to check its line.
Take a camera with you and take snaps of things as well. Tires, rear sprocket, chain, frame alignment, exhaust scratches, etc. so you can double check or ask about later if needs be.
There's more but I'll leave others to chime in ...
Michael
it sounds a very good deal on paper.
will it be youru first biike?
Thanks for the advice Mister. Very good info there. And YES this will be my first bike.
If you can't get someone to go with you then don't go. That is if you don't feel comfortable with your own motor vehicle inspecting prowess.
Next, his price is way too high. Especially for this time of year. Offer him 1,000 for it. He'll probably say no, and that's fine, but you shouldn't spend more than $1200 for it. Why? A 1997 or a 1989 and anything in between is basically the same bike. The retail, "Stealership" price you'd pay for a 1989 is in the $1200 range. And since they're both basically the same bike regardless of the year difference, why spend more?
http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle/retail/1989/suzuki/gs500e/78809 (http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle/retail/1989/suzuki/gs500e/78809)
I find the fact that he emphasized it has a, "CLEAN" title (jump up and down?!!) to be amusing. It doesn't add to the attractiveness of the sale since it is to be expected. Having anything less could simply count against him. But having it, doesn't add anything to the value if you can catch my drift.
Next he says the tires are barely used... Could you be any vaguer?
Next he says the bike has been down and there are only scratches to the exhaust... And just barely at that... The Kelly Blue Book price is $1600 for this bike in exceptional condition. Scratches, even if just barely, doesn't make this bike exceptional and hence you should not be paying $1600 or more for it.
http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle/retail/1997/suzuki/gs500e/79038 (http://www.kbb.com/motorcycle/retail/1997/suzuki/gs500e/79038)
Next he sites that the, "same bike" (he's being vague again) with almost twice as many miles sold for $2650. And that means... I should be excited to overpay him for his bike as well? I'm gonna send him an email and ask for his proof of this, in a nice way, just for my own amusement.
And we'll end my, "For Sale Thread Bashing" of him that will include a couple of my own personal pet peeves... "HE DON'T MIND SHOWING IT TO YOU IF YOU ARE SERIOUS..." LOL? Naw man, i'm not serious. I just like spending all my free time driving around to peoples houses looking at there bikes they have for sale. It's fun! You should try it. And what the f%$k is up with people listing, "FEELER" or, "I MAY SELL THIS, NOT SURE, BUT I GUESS IF YOU WANT TO GIVE ME TWICE OF WHAT IT'S WORTH I'LL LET IT GO". I see things like that a lot on these forums... DUDE! It's for sale, or it's not. MAKE UP YOUR f%$king MIND! It's not our job to do it for you! CONSIDER YOURSELF A MORON IF YOU'VE EVER POSTED SOME shaZam! LIKE THIS AND FOR MY SANITY, PLEASE DON'T EVER POST THAT RETARDED shaZam! AGAIN! /end rant
OK, i think i got a little side tracked from what you were asking V...
MOTOR: Check the compression. It will alert you to a potential major problem and could save you a /sad face. (Way too much to fix if you can't do it yourself)
FRAME: Is it bent? (See Mister's post) That's not what you want to see or pay money for.
OIL LEAKS: LOOK FOR THEM! Having a shop replace gaskets will be expensive. Doing it yourself not so much but not everyone has the skills to do it. ($2,3,400?)
DRIVE IT: Does it run as it should and shift through the gears properly? The longer the drive the better. Around town for awhile is what you're shooting for not just around the block.
TIRES: LOOK FOR DRY-ROT! The tires could have plenty of tread left but if they have dry-rot they are garbage and will need to be changed. ($350-$450)
PAINT: If it isn't scratched and looks good then... Great! Keep it that way! If not, make sure you're not paying for something you're not getting.
BRAKE PADS: What is the thickness of the pads? Will they need to be changed right away? ($100-$150)
BRAKE ROTORS: Are they grooved or warped and need to be replaced? ($150-$300)
RIMS: Are they straight without any damage that would force replacement? ($200-$250)
FORKS: Are they straight? Did they get bent when the bike went down? ($350-$500)
FORK SEALS: Do they leak? If so, ($150-$200)
CHAIN AND SPROCKETS: Are they worn? Do they need to be replaced? Did the guy lube the chain properly? ($200-$300)
SIGNALS, HORN, and SWITCHES: Shouldn't cost you an arm and a leg to fix but could be a pain in the rear for a rookie... Are you a masochist? Have at it!
RUST: Where is it and what is it doing there?
Bunch of other things as well. And all of the above listed, "($)" is just my best guess. I don't go to dealerships or shops so i really have no clue. I just know that it can get pricey.
My personal point of view is... Get it for $1200 or extremely close if everything checks out and you will have done your best. Just because he thinks it's worth more doesn't mean you have too. And it's not. And since winter is approaching us and you won't be riding anyway... What's the rush? You are in the drivers seat right now. Stick to your guns, and don't pay his price if it's too much. Pay yours. If not to him then to the next GS owner that comes along with a bike for sale. There will be a bunch more before the riding season comes back around. And there really isn't a good time of year to pay too much for a bike, but if there was a bad time, it would definitely be now.
Paying up to $1500 if everything checks out is reasonable. You won't have, "Done your best!" but who of us is perfect? And considering your battling an, "Impulsive nature :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:" right now, i think it would be understandable. Spend a penny more though and it'll be time for you to seek professional help for that impulsiveness... Because it's getting the best of you!
Hope i helped - Bob!
I need to clarify bar end knobs. I park mine in a garage next to a wall and occasionally bump them against the wall. There are some nice dark marks on the wall where I do so. And scratches on the ends. So scratches does not mean Dropped. But if dropped then there Should be scratches.
Exhaust... lengthwise scratches will usually mean dropped at speed while up/down will usually mean low speed/stopped.
And if dropped *I* would also expect some indication on the footpegs as they hit first.
Run your hand over the bike as well. To get tactile feedback. Your fingers might pick up something your eyes don't see - such as on the rear cowling, for example.
With the bike on center stand - get him to do it cause if anything happens during the process it's Your fault - turn the handlebars back and forth. Do they have the same range of movement on both sides?
If the seller is expecting you he will most likely have warmed up the bike a little. So when he starts it it will NOT be a full cold start.
Personally, I wouldn't buy a bike I couldn't ride first. Nor one I could not get up to highway speed and test ALL gears.
Out of curiosity, did you email ask how the bike was laid down?
Michael
Hi Victoria,
I'd be happy to help you and look the bike over with you.
I live in Lancaster but am in Philly all the time -- it's my home town.
I've been riding and working on bikes for 34 years and am a former motorcycle mechanic.
If you want assistance, let me know. :)
Best wishes,
Trwhouse
Quote from: Trwhouse on October 09, 2009, 10:38:56 PM
Hi Victoria,
I'd be happy to help you and look the bike over with you.
I live in Lancaster but am in Philly all the time -- it's my home town.
I've been riding and working on bikes for 34 years and am a former motorcycle mechanic.
If you want assistance, let me know. :)
Best wishes,
Trwhouse
Seems like this would be your best bet Victoria. Kudos to TRW for offering to help. As long as he doesn't end up to be some old perv :thumb:
$1200 FTW - Bob!
Quote from: Trwhouse on October 09, 2009, 10:38:56 PM
Hi Victoria,
I'd be happy to help you and look the bike over with you.
I live in Lancaster but am in Philly all the time -- it's my home town.
I've been riding and working on bikes for 34 years and am a former motorcycle mechanic.
If you want assistance, let me know. :)
Best wishes,
Trwhouse
Thank you so much. I might take you up on the offer. I am waiting to hear back from the seller. As soon as I hear and If I need your help i'll message you. Thanks again!