First, when voltage regulators fail can they cause a drop in voltage? What about a failing rectifier.
I have an old XL250S. It's a 6v bike. It's only getting about 3.5vdc at the battery, though. I put a different stator in and got basically the same result, so I'm finding it hard to believe it's a failed stator, but I don't know.
This bike has a divorced rectifier and regulator. Would it be possible to one of these on it?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/6V-REGULATOR-RECTIFIER-LIFAN-50CC-70CC-90CC-110CC-125CC_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1c08e7e451QQitemZ120408499281QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
Thanks guys!
xs 650 site has some schematics about 70's chrysler rectifier and a radio shack regulator ... or maybe other way round ...
Want it in here in text ... dont blame me if pics dont turn up ... but lemme know I'll get it here for you.
Cool.
Buddha.
I would love to see it.
The xs is 12 V but here goes.
Here is a suggested replacement for the rectifier on 1970 to 1979 XS650's. Go to Radio Shack and buy 2 #276 - 1185 Full Wave Bridge Rectifiers for $3.29 ea.. Wire and mount them as follows:
1. Fabricate an aluminum plate approx 3 X 2 inches. Use .125 aluminum. This is the heat sink.
2. Mount the Rectifiers per the drawing, using heat sink compound between the bottom of the rectifiers and the plate.
3. Solder wires per the diagram.
4. Recommend that you eliminate the plug and connector as they are toast and you have to solder anyway.
5. Solder the wires from the Rectifiers per the diagram to the existing white wires going to the Alternator and plus / minus (Red / Black).
6. Use a heat sink when soldering the wires to the rectifiers.
7. Mount this assembly in the same place as the original, using either the center hole (as shown) or one of the mounting holes for one of the rectifiers.
8. Note: Do not ground the black wire on the mounting screws. The battery box is floating, it is not a ground.
The Radio Shack rectifier is rated at 25 amps. Two of the three white wires go to one rectifier and the other one goes to the other rectifier, so about 10 amps max is going through one rectifier at full load, with the remainder, 5 amps, going through the other.
[image]
The "N/C" terminal can be used as a spare in case one of the diodes shorts out in the future. You could "pre solder" a short wire to it so if you have to use it you can just cut and splice the affected white wire to it.....don't even need a soldering iron!
regulator is -
This is something that I wanted to do to my '81/H from the moment I got it. The stock reg/Rect works just fine, but I know it's going to fail any day. Could be tommorow....could be next year, but I know it's gonna go. So, I replaced it today with a regulator from a '70's Chrysler product and those Radio Shack Rectifiers. Works great. Now I'm gonna sell my stock OEM reg / rect on Ebay. I can in good conscience say that it came from a working bike and that is has been tested. I figure I'll get enough from the sale of the Reg / Rect to more than pay for the Chrysler Regulator and the Radio Shack rectifiers. So, just like an old car....if it's running real good...time to sell it!
Here's the wiring diagram:
[image]
Here's a pic of the Chrysler Regulator:
[image]
Here's the reg / rect and the replacement:
[image]
Here's the replacement Reg / Rect:
[image]
This assembly bolts right in the same place as the stock Reg/Rect. I used a plug from Mikes to make it plug and play. I did have to cut the upper left corner of the plate to clear the end of the left side cover and the lower part of the plate to clear the swing arm.
1. Got to your local NAPA store or www.napaonline.com
2. Search for part NAPA MPEVR38SB @$14.99 for a 1975 Chrysler
3. Wire per this diagram, using the Rectifier from my earlier post ($6.58).
5. Note: The regulator does not have a ground wire, it depends on the case being firmly grounded.
This regulator was used on virtually all Chrysler products in the 1970's. There are millions of them out there, including a very large inventory in warehouses of the major auto parts stores, so they are interested in selling them. They are very well constructed, and potted, so there is no degradation of these parts and they have a one year warranty from the parts store.
The connections to the regulator are female bullet connections, but you should remove the protective plastic from the connections for a better connection.
Note: Also available from NAPA as their part number MPEVR38SB for $16.69
Parts List:
Regulator: $16.69 @ NAPA
Rectifiers (2) : $6.58 (Radio Shack #276-1185, $3.29 ea))
Misc: $1.00 (Connectors, wire etc.)
2" X 1/8 " aluminum plate (shop scrap)
Total: $24.27
So, if I can sell my stock OEM Rect/Reg for $24.27 I will have received a brand new equivalent for FREE. Anything more than $24.27 is like cash back!
Bonus: The Chrysler regulator is warrantied for 1 year!
The links are -
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=3473
http://xs650temp.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=Charging&action=display&thread=9306&page=1#58628
Cool.
Buddha.