okay, so i read up and watched the videos on valve clearance, and I'm really not comfortable doing it unless I have to, how much will it cost for a shop to do it?
it will cost way more than it should, its actually very easy as the gs500 only has four valves. it shouldnt take much more than an hour to measure what you have (including disassembly) then 1.5 hours to install what you need.
well i read up on it and the big issue is I really don't have the tools. The mechanic said he did it last time I took it in, but I'm not sure he did. If he didn't I'm overdue for one, but I just need an idea of how much it will cost. Btw, without doing it all, is there any way to know if there really screwed up or not?
-thanks
I found checking valve clearances to be a real pain in the arse. Although, I didn't have a very good tool to remove the shims so it was done with strait flathead screwdrivers and a long pair of needlenose pliars. I eventually got them out to record their values but it took way too long.
Because valve clearances increase as the engine heats up, a good check is to see if you can spin the bucket when the engine is cold.
If you can your clearances should be fine.
Their is some good info here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=38062.0
Quote from: galahs on November 17, 2009, 05:26:04 AM
Because valve clearances increase as the engine heats up, a good check is to see if you can spin the bucket when the engine is cold.
If you can your clearances should be fine.
Their is some good info here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=38062.0
The clearence DEcreases as the engine heats up. as in the gap gets smaller due the expanding metal.
I took the bike across town today because i had to(only means of transport) and it seemed to run fine once it was warmed up, when I got it home after a horrible 5 miles of stop and go and another 10 pinned(i had to pee like a race horse), bike was making more frequent tick, let it sit for a few mins and started it up and it was gone. If the valves were off, wouldn't it preform poorly?
well if you dont trust that your mechanic that says he did the valve 1 dont go back and 2 either get a few hand tools to check/fix yourself or goto a reputible shop and have it done.
Quote from: gregvhen on November 17, 2009, 11:40:00 AM
Quote from: galahs on November 17, 2009, 05:26:04 AM
Because valve clearances increase as the engine heats up, a good check is to see if you can spin the bucket when the engine is cold.
If you can your clearances should be fine.
Their is some good info here: http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=38062.0
The clearence DEcreases as the engine heats up. as in the gap gets smaller due the expanding metal.
Valve clearances
increase as the engine heats. The aluminum head expands at a faster rate than the steel valve does lifting the camshaft away from the valves and increasing clearances.
If you can spin all the buckets cold the engine will run properly like galahs said and I used that for 80k miles on the 97 GS and one exhaust valve shim was down to the 215 minumum thickness by then. Exhaust valves will last longer and have fewer shim changes if they are run at max clearances or even a little greater. I expect my 02 GS which is now at 76k miles to go over 100k miles without getting near a minimum shim thickness since I've been running greater exhaust valve clearances on it.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v443/jcp8832/valveclearances.jpg
okay, new questions 1) what is the tolerance in clearance for the valves 2) how do I know what thickness shim i need 3) where should I get said shims 4) after this, do I need to change oil
1) Tolerance as noted at top of my valve log linked above is .001-.003" or equiv .03-.08 mm. After my 80k miles on the 97 GS and the first 30k miles on my current 02 GS I revised my personal exhaust valve spec to .003-.005", if they drop below .003 I'll now reshim them to .004-.005" and I revised my redline from 11000 to 9500 rpm. Your bike, your choice on that one. :)
2) If a shim needs replaced I take it out and measure it and choose a new shim thickness and go get one if I don't have the one I need.
3) I get/got my shims from local dealer, a bit pricey that way but he always had them in stock so I could get them right away. Here's a good source for online ordering:
http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/valve_shims.htm
4) No.
I used CRC2Online for my shim order after my local shop tried to convince me that the Yamaha shims were identical (they're not).
Yamaha = 29mm diameter.
Suzuki = 29.5mm diameter
CliffHanger
Also, check with your local Suzuki dealer. I can take my shims to the one here, Aurora Suzuki, and swap them for the size I want. They charge a buck or 2 per shim.
Get the valve tool. Motion pro makes them. Sudco sells them, but I'm sure lots of other places as well. Makes the job almost easy. Otherwise you will not have fun.
http://www.sudco.com/motionpro.html#valve
It will pay for itself the first time you don't take the bike to a shop.
And, you will have the satisfaction of knowing you kept your own bike in order, and don't have to trust someone else....
p.s. if it works on the GS1000/750 etc. it works on the GS500. I own an old 1000 and a 500, tool works on both.
Well, the 500 is the wifes... :icon_mrgreen:
I just use an offset flathead screwdriver and it works wonders. Like these, http://www.bareasschoppers.com/forksprings/angle.jpg.
Just turn the crank so the cam lobe is pressing the bucket down, place the offset on the EDGE of the bucket, back the cam lobe off while holding the offset in place and thats all there is! I wish I had taken pics when I did this last. So easy.
awesome guys, thank you so much for the help. I've decided to man up and try and do it myself, but I will make sure I get a clymer to do it all and about 50$ for parts(hopefully it's cheaper than that so I can go buy me some in and out burger when it's done). I've got one last question and then this thread can no longer make you guys shake your heads and go "what a freakin newb". The clymer i can find is for 89-02, I own an 07 bike, will this section of the manual work for me, even though it does not cover my year?
I know there is a Haynes Manual for the F models, however as far as I know the process of valve adjustment is exactly the same as the '01+ bikes, other than taking the side plastics off.
yep it will be fibe, for the engine hasn't changed.
The carbs have however.