*WARNING* I'M AN AMATUER *WARNING*
Here goes, just crossed the point of no turning back... I'll try to be specific in my process so people can learn from my mistakes lol
Started strippin using stripper from walmart (Believe it's K3). Its thick so you can brush it on and let it sit, works nice.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture090.jpg)
Got to this before I decided to get a shower and go out for the night. Not much progress, but a start.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture091.jpg)
To be continued...
What's that tool in the last picture? Just an air gun to blow it dry I'm guessing? Looks good so far. I'm gonna be repainting my bike in a couple months, so I'll keep track of your project!
Yea just air. Man it's hard to completely drain the tank, guessing it's the reserve thats hard to drain. I poured some rubbing alcohol in there but still have yet to see if it all evaporated. Will be working on it again Friday.
Excellent start man! :thumb: That tank looks pretty straight so you should have a relatively easy time prepping it. Now get some paint on it before surface rust sets in and keep the pics coming!
-Jessie
Can't see it in that pic, but there's a small dent at the most top part of the tank.
I don't know if it is still on sale but the Harbor Freight store had a decent starter gun kit on sale for $50 last time I was there. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94572 The little gun probably wouldn't be of much use but the bigger gun comes with 2 tip sizes which is unusual on a cheap gun.
If you are strapped for cash I have an older gun you can borrow.
-Jessie
I've always wondered what that top adjustment is?
Quote from: cyberdork on December 08, 2009, 09:36:34 PM
I've always wondered what that top adjustment is?
They call it a "pattern control" and I have no idea what it does. A typical gun just has fluid and air adjustment knobs. Guessing by its location on the gun body that it may fine tune the paint/air mixture. Anyone know differently?
-Jessie
Any good cheap way to practice? I don't want to go through quarts of expensive paint just practicing lol
paint something besides your bike. Neighbor's dog works well. :thumb:
Quote from: tussey on December 09, 2009, 10:33:50 AM
paint something besides your bike. Neighbor's dog works well. :thumb:
Or learn on a similar surface and use the side of their car that they cant see outside.
or their windows.
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 08, 2009, 10:01:50 PM
Quote from: cyberdork on December 08, 2009, 09:36:34 PM
I've always wondered what that top adjustment is?
They call it a "pattern control" and I have no idea what it does. A typical gun just has fluid and air adjustment knobs. Guessing by its location on the gun body that it may fine tune the paint/air mixture. Anyone know differently?
-Jessie
I have a Husky gravity-feed sprayer (Home Depot, $40) that is laid out very similar. When you are spraying, paint comes out in the shape of a fan, either vertically or horizontally or at whatever angle you would want it to be. The 'pattern control' basically determines how wide the spray 'fan' is. Get what I'm saying?
Quote from: cyberdork on December 08, 2009, 10:03:46 PM
Any good cheap way to practice? I don't want to go through quarts of expensive paint just practicing lol
You are always going to waste paint getting the gun dialed in. My only suggestion would be to use the spray gun for priming so you get used to it, you will have to use a larger tip though. At least you'll have some practice in when you go to spray the color coat. Redhen's bike came out nice with the single stage urethane which will be cheaper than a base coat/clear coat system. It only takes about a pint of color (if all goes well...) to paint a naked GS.
-Jessie
I also plan to do a single stage, unless the base/clear combo is near the same price. I'm actually using the same primer as redhen. How do these fair against airgun primers?
Getting lazy on the bottom, ironically it's turning out to be the hardest paint to get off, especially around the nooks and crannies.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture129.jpg)
Should I be worried about this remaining paint residue? I'm working on it Friday so it's going to be gone more than likely. The bottom I think I'll just keep it as is, I've got the clear off and paint scuffed so I think it'll be fine
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture132.jpg)
Realized I had a rust problem on the exhaust. How can I go about fixing it? Can I get a rust stripper and paint my exhaust with rattle can high temp paint?
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture135.jpg)
Is that rust or battery acid?
looks like the battery vent tube dripped onto the exhaust, causing oxidation there. I used a wire brush to remove rust scale on my exhaust, then used high temp grill paint from home depot to paint the pipes.
That would explain the white powder on the frame then. Thanks for the advice.
There are exotic rattlecans (and no doubt non-rattlecans) for high-temp exhaust paint. I actually got as far as considering one (I would prefer the exhaust to be red - but not to the extent of making too much work). Said paint (something-VHT) wanted to be baked at 650F between coats. Some sort of fancy ceramic stuff, oh-la-la. My exhaust is therefore black. Either gloss or semi-gloss Rustoleum Barbeque black - 2 or three coats, with the shiny parts masked to stay shiny (stock exhaust heat shield on the can). A reasonably careful job, done with the exhaust off the bike (get new gaskets, and be careful removing the bolts, and be sure to put hi-temp anti-seize on the steel bolts before you re-install them in the aluminum head.)
It's held up well for over a year. Easy enough to re-do when needed (no stripping was done - wirebrush/sanding was done to remove rust and scuff any paint that was left, then new paint was applied). Allow adequate dry time and cycle the new paint through a few short idling sessions in the driveway to cook off before you take it out and run it much.
Much better than the widespread rust I had before I did that.
Ah crap, how am I going to bake it, doubt it will fit in our over, and chances of my mom allowing me to do it are slim to none.
Quote from: cyberdork on December 09, 2009, 05:12:14 PM
I also plan to do a single stage, unless the base/clear combo is near the same price. I'm actually using the same primer as redhen. How do these fair against airgun primers?
Base/Clear will cost a lot more than single stage urethane. Are you using rattle can primer? They are a lot less efficient than the same amount of paint run through a HVLP paint gun. This is the primer that was used on Kay's bike: http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ksp2kprime.aspx A little over $30 a quart with shipping.
-Jessie
Awesome link. Should I go with the quart kit KUS KIT-KFP305? One thing that is worrying me is rust inside the tank. I can't seem to get all the water out of it. I dumped some rubbing alcohol in the tank and swished it around (rubbing alcohol helps water evaporate right?). Right now I have that tank sitting cap open, overtop of a floor vent in our shopping hoping that the draft will help dry it out. If not can I always just jam a hairdryer in the gas cap for awhile? lol
I used the 2 part kit that just has the primer: KUS KFP305 Keep working the rubbing alcohol around the tank and eventually it will evaporate all the water, it does take some time and effort though. How does the inside of the tank look? If it needs to be treated, do that before you start the paint work. There is a radiator shop in south Baltimore that did Kay's tank. If the inside looks pretty good, just dry it out and run a fuel filter when you reinstall it :thumb:
-Jessie
It looks pretty spotty with rust. How much does it cost to get it treated?
Quote from: cyberdork on December 09, 2009, 07:34:05 PM
Ah crap, how am I going to bake it, doubt it will fit in our over, and chances of my mom allowing me to do it are slim to none.
Well, the point of my post was that the fancy paint said it needed to be baked. The BBQ black doesn't, though it does cure (& smell) a bit when you fire up the bike after painting.
Quote from: cyberdork on December 10, 2009, 04:25:34 AM
It looks pretty spotty with rust. How much does it cost to get it treated?
I think it was about $100. Kay's tank was rusted to the point it was clogging the carbs, if yours isn't too bad you can probably get away with cleaning out the tank and using a fuel filter.
If you order something from TCP Global, please add a Restoration Shop Color Chart to your order for me. It is their part # RSP CC-144 and is $3. I've been wanting one but don't want to pay $10 shipping to get it ;) Thanks
-Jessie
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 09, 2009, 02:47:41 PM
It only takes about a pint of color (if all goes well...) to paint a naked GS.
I used exactly one quart to paint:
1. The tail plastics and tank on the bike
2. My helmet
3. A playstation 2 controller (who has the coolest system on the block now, eh? :D)
4. A skateboard
5. The outside of my garage lol (if you don't get it, see the pics in my thread-- http://gstwins.com/gsboard/index.php?topic=50319.0 )
I think I'll use a fuel filter, it's not too bad. I see what you're saying now DoD#i. Redhen, ps2 was deffinately the best. My GF owns a PS3, I've owned 360, but never played either one of them as much as the ps2. We actually rececently bought a ps2 so she could play Vigilante 8 and I could play Gran Turismo 3. It just sucks I don't have a game shark anymore and can use unlimited credits to buy and upgrade cars lol. I'm having gallbladder problems today and hope I can get into the garage tomorrow for more progress.
Quote from: BaltimoreGS on December 09, 2009, 09:08:58 PM
I used the 2 part kit that just has the primer: KUS KFP305 Keep working the rubbing alcohol around the tank and eventually it will evaporate all the water, it does take some time and effort though. How does the inside of the tank look? If it needs to be treated, do that before you start the paint work. There is a radiator shop in south Baltimore that did Kay's tank. If the inside looks pretty good, just dry it out and run a fuel filter when you reinstall it :thumb:
-Jessie
So no need to get the hardener? The discription only talks about priming metal. Would it be safe to use it on plastic as well?
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture140.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture142.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture143.jpg)
Bondo is such a damn chore since I'm new to it and keep adding way too much hardener and have about a minute to work with it until it starts turning to putty. Will have to sand and apply a second coating.
Quote from: cyberdork on December 11, 2009, 05:40:38 PM
Bondo is such a damn chore since I'm new to it and keep adding way too much hardener and have about a minute to work with it until it starts turning to putty. Will have to sand and apply a second coating.
Since you understand the problem, you understand the solution.
Stop having that problem. A Little Dab'll Do Ya.
Also, you'll run out of hardener way early...
Haha I'll get it eventually. Only my 2nd time bondo'ing. First time was on a realitively smooth surface, this is on the lip of the tank that bends all kinds of ways lol. I sanded alot of that down and applied a second bondo coat, I'm going back out now to sand it down. Will post pictures.
After 2nd coat and sanding
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture145.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture147.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture146.jpg)
Think I'll address the remaining dimples in the bondo with glazing puddy. Done for the night. Progress is slow until I get the paint and gun.
Well I got the primer and hardener at NAPA under the advice of the guy that worked there. Extremely helpful guy helped me for a good 30 minutes so I didn't want to leave without atleast buying something. Ended up with this:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture151.jpg)
A little pricey compared to that link unfortunately. $50. Now I just have to decided on a color :technical: Stuck between a bright white, a torquoise metalic, or a green metalic like redhens bike (lame to copy but I love that color!)
No progress to report. Got lazy, then got lasik and still am paranoid about getting stuff in my eyes. Need to finish sanding and get everything atleast primered. School is taking up my nights, so not much progress for the weeks.
Quote from: cyberdork on February 16, 2010, 06:34:09 PM
No progress to report. Got lazy, then got lasik and still am paranoid about getting stuff in my eyes. Need to finish sanding and get everything atleast primered. School is taking up my nights, so not much progress for the weeks.
get bright wghite
Forgot about that, still need paint lol. Was thinking Kia copperhead:
http://starbeacon.autoconx.com/photos/924/501114924_1_B.jpg
or white....
I sanded the majority of the plastic peices down to the plastic. Would I see an unsmooth surface if I was to rough up the remainder and paint overtop of it or is it so thin that it won't be noticable. It's smooth by hand.
Don't go too crazy sanding, as long as it is no longer shiny paint should stick to it. Put a coat of primer on and wet sand the piece, then you can judge the smoothness. Run your fingertips over it while it is wet and you will feel if there are imperfections.
-Jessie
haha well I took it down to the plastic like a dumby because the paint remainded shiny........because it's metallic paint lol. :technical:
A note on paint strippers for the new users out there
I've used stripper on a ton of projects and had many great results. I'm very anal about how I do things so I never had problems, and I usually media blast complicated parts like frames for example. I've done 4-5 with stripper now. Every one turned out great but my DR350. The DR350 uses the frame as an oil tank, so I was trying to be really careful about how I did things. Because of that I missed very small amounts of stripper in corners and the like. Several months later, I finally got around to painting the frame using a mix of gloss black, and Duplicolor Bed Liner. With the first ride I started noticing paint flaking off, and from there it just spread. My bike is covered in bare spots now and needs to be completely stripped so I can start over. Just wanted to mention it because anyone can screw up, and if you've never heard about it you're more likely to screw up.
Quick question on bondo,
Anyone else have problems with it cracking on bikes? The vibration seems to cause problems for me where it cracks or separates completely from the project after awhile. I started using JB Weld instead for small repairs.
Quote from: MXFun86 on February 25, 2010, 02:44:55 AM
A note on paint strippers for the new users out there
I've used stripper on a ton of projects and had many great results. I'm very anal about how I do things so I never had problems, and I usually media blast complicated parts like frames for example. I've done 4-5 with stripper now. Every one turned out great but my DR350. The DR350 uses the frame as an oil tank, so I was trying to be really careful about how I did things. Because of that I missed very small amounts of stripper in corners and the like. Several months later, I finally got around to painting the frame using a mix of gloss black, and Duplicolor Bed Liner. With the first ride I started noticing paint flaking off, and from there it just spread. My bike is covered in bare spots now and needs to be completely stripped so I can start over. Just wanted to mention it because anyone can screw up, and if you've never heard about it you're more likely to screw up.
I noticed that the stripper that I used went from a gel to a stringy and clingy gel once exposed to water lol (if that makes any sense)
Small progress:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture094-2.jpg)
^Had water splashed on the plastic, the red is scuffed up. Calling those pieces done, I'm tired of sanding them lol
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture095-2.jpg)
^ Hate the design of that part. 4 holes for the forks, 4 with nuts underneath. You can't just unbolt it from the forks and pull it out, the front wheel has to be taken off (not hard just un-needed steps). I showed my disapproval...
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture097-2.jpg)
^How I got the front tire off of the ground incase anyone was wondering.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture096-2.jpg)
^Since I had the front tire off I went ahead and took the exhaust off. I broked the bolts loose by hand, which makes me wonder if an exhaust leak was the problem in the past.
That's it, nothing major. Have to sand the front fender then get cracking on paint.
Took a wire brush to the exhaust and painted it with 500 degree flat black paint (hopefully the exhaust doesn't get hotter than that). The green section is just tape.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/exhaustpaint.jpg)
Fixed up my bondo imperfections with spotting putty. 400 grit took it down without any effort, I'm questioning how durable it's going to be.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/spottingputty.jpg)
I used 80 grit to sand everything that needs paint, so I took some 180 over it to get it smooth and remove any burrs. I took a trip to home depot today and got some acid to get the rust out of my tank. I'm going to do that the day before priming. Still haven't gotten the paint because I'm afraid of making a bad decision with color.
What's the different between bondo and spotting putty? Is the putty even softer than bondo?
Quote from: tt_four on March 23, 2010, 03:24:35 PM
What's the different between bondo and spotting putty? Is the putty even softer than bondo?
Bondo (body filler) is for filling dents/dings. Spotting/glazing putty is for small imperfections like nicks and deep scratches. Most of the time you have to use glazing putty to fill in the imperfections in the Bondo'd area before priming.
-Jessie
looks good so far. i spent all of yesterday doing paint prep on my bike. i really like the kia copper color, its actually very similar to the orange metallic i'm painting my bike. keep up the good work :thumb:
I think you may need more than 500 degree paint for the exhaust.. I got 1500! for my ACE exhaust and its holding up cery well
I needed some questions answered about painting, and without the gstwins board I made my way over to www.hotrodders.com They're very knowledgable and nice over there and are more than happy to help out with anything automotive related. Highly recommended if you're seeking advice.
My little helper! Isn't she cute!
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2001-2.jpg)
Me cranking away
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2004-2.jpg)
Weapon of choice
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2005-2.jpg)
Supplies:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2008-2.jpg)
Final coats:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2024-2.jpg)
You can see where the drill and sanding disc did some damage...
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2026-2.jpg)
Last peice
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2028-2.jpg)
Yours truely
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2030-2.jpg)
Overall I was pleased with the ease of painting, but the primer really brings out the imperfections in everything.
So that's just primer? I vote paint it white! white bikes rock.
*opens a new tab to look at the new 2010 cbr600rr with the white/black woman paint job*
Correct, just primer.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/0413101118a.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/0413101110a.jpg)
Imperfections are as close as my patience is going to let me. Reprimered them, but no pics.
Quote from: cyberdork on March 30, 2010, 06:23:31 PM
My little helper! Isn't she cute!
The only one that'll hang out with my when I'm working on stuff is one of my cats, and that's only because he wants to steal rubber gloves.
500 degree paint fail, it will smoke and evaporate, trust me :D
Header paint is just a easy and is made for super hot surfaces!!! way more than 500 :cheers:
Quote from: skudman on April 13, 2010, 09:33:46 PM
500 degree paint fail, it will smoke and evaporate, trust me :D
Header paint is just a easy and is made for super hot surfaces!!! way more than 500 :cheers:
Already a step ahead of you. Stripping it with a wire wheel and painting with 1200 grill paint
Quote from: cyberdork on April 14, 2010, 04:33:47 AM
Quote from: skudman on April 13, 2010, 09:33:46 PM
500 degree paint fail, it will smoke and evaporate, trust me :D
Header paint is just a easy and is made for super hot surfaces!!! way more than 500 :cheers:
Already a step ahead of you. Stripping it with a wire wheel and painting with 1200 grill paint
good deal, :thumb:
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2031.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2032.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2035.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2039.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Bike%202/Picture2040.jpg)
Nice :thumb: When you coming out for a ride?
-Jessie
Haha first things first. Put body back on and pray to god it works. If not I'll be having you come up for help lol :thumb:
Nice documentations :)
Faced with a real dilema now. I broke down and bought a 89 foxbody mustang after all of these years wanting one. I took the money out of my savings to cover it so I'm not exactly broke right now, but selling the bike would ease my mind about the money I just spent. BUTTTT the insurance on the bike will be so cheap that it'll be worth keeping it as a commuter. If I had a better damn job I wouldn't have to worry about this!
Also consider the gas savings of having the bike to ride (assuming you got a 5.0).
-Jessie
Biggest leason learned: SLAM CLEAR COAT ON, DON'T BE A LITTLE GIRL
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture004resize.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture005resize.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture007resize.jpg)
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y262/cyberdork/Picture006resize.jpg)
Well done man........I am diggin that color a LOT! :bowdown:
sweet paint job. the bike looks like its in great condition.
Only bad thing is a lot of stuff dried in the clear coat, my clearcoat has rough acne :( I tried my best in less than ideal conditions. But far away it looks good :thumb:
Well carry a 10 foot pole with ya! Tell people that eyeglasses scare you too! 8)
Very nice!
I like the black engine.
My wife wants me to paint her Pink. Its a GS500f.
It's for sale if anyone is local
Why didn't you paint the swing arm?
The swing arm does look pretty beat, but didn't want to risk screwing anything up
Quote from: grahamlocklin on August 24, 2010, 08:54:39 AM
My wife wants me to paint her Pink. Its a GS500f.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_V4w18ZWaPas/TFG2aF1eOdI/AAAAAAAAGRQ/hulZ7_QKco8/s1600/Pink-Motorcycle.jpg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3459/3905747650_872fb79e2d.jpg)
(http://www.yourfunnypic.info/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/pink-ktm-motorcycle.jpg)
(http://www.mike.geiger.ca/blog/uploads/photos/200707/PinkMotorcycle.jpg)
And after it becomes pink.... there'll be the pink helmet, accessories, etc.
Michael
Man those 636s are sweet looking bikes. I'd ride that thing even if it was pink.