I have a Tulsa Welding school down the road from me. I asked how much for a general welding 101 class. $15,000 LMAO! That's more than BOTH of my 4 year degrees combined.....for a stupid welding class . Yea ok.
What's the best way to learn on my own?
Buddy up to someone that does weld. Most of the welders I know are pretty friendly and willing to give pointers. Ask your friends and you will probably find someone that has a friend/relative that welds :thumb:
-Jessie
Practice at home with Kraft spray-cheese in a can and pieces of cardboard.
If you want to skip the $15,000 tuition I'd say a free welding book from the library and a $80 Harbor Freight welder. Once you get the hang of it you can go and spend more on one. I've been looking into learning as well, but at this point I don't have a clue what any of the amps and reels and everything else they always talk about, which I'm sure will make perfect sense once I actually start doing it.
welding is not actually that bad. the hardest part I have found is getting the gear all setup correctly, after that its just practice. get a bunch of little bits of scrap and start sticking them all together. plate and solid stuff is much easier than welding tubing. i think if you got a cheap set and a book, you would be fine. someone who actually knows what they are doing helping you out would be very helpful as well. it would only take them a few minutes to get you started anyway.
Once you get practicing I'd definitely have someone who knows what's going on too. I know that just because a weld doesn't look nice doesn't mean it's strong. If you're building random things it wouldn't be as crucial, but I know I'll definitely end up building some subframes and stuff like that, and that's definitely something I don't need breaking, so I say just jump into it, and once you've got some practice have someone you trust check it out.
It really depends on what you want to weld. What's your project and purpose? Best is to buddy up with someone. I learned on oxy-acetylene in high school shop classes, and picked up MIG / flux core later on my own. There's plenty of info out there. For $15K, they had better be teaching pipe fitting and handing out apprentice cards at the end of classes so you can earn that tuition back.
In order of difficulty:
MIG. It's really the easiest. Also no spatter; you could run it with bare hands.
Flux core isn't bad either. But get some gloves on.
Stick welder would be next. Only one I haven't personally tried. Again with gloves.
Oxy-Acetylene. Not sure anyone does this anymore.
Tig. I never really got the hang of it. Good for really thin steel (I've welded cookie sheets with this process) and aluminum.
$15,000 would buy a lot of equipment to learn with yourself.Yes it takes some knowledge but not to the point of being a Genius.
Quote from: Jughead on December 10, 2009, 09:36:37 PM
$15,000 would buy a lot of equipment to learn with yourself.Yes it takes some knowledge but not to the point of being a Genius.
+1
For around $500 you can buy a 110 Lincoln Mig/Flux core and a bottle and teach yourself on scrap. It will handle up to 1/8" in one pass with flux core. That's my current setup. 220V would be nicer, but for what I do (welding exhausts and other bike bits) it would be total overkill.
If you learn well from books, there are good ones out there. Some good stuff on the web as well, now. I'll look some up and post when I have more time.
Also a lot of practice and destructive testing of your practice welds. But if you have no idea how do do either of those, it won't help much (doing it wrong 500 times is not the same as doing it right 500 times in terms of helping your welding, or anything else for that matter.) As such a big vise and a BFH should be on your tool list if you don't already have them.
It is a physical/manual skill. As such, I find that when I haven't done much for a while, it's a good idea to start with more practice before diving into something that needs to be done right. And it is helpful when first learning to have someone that knows what they are doing that you can watch, and they can watch you. But it can be a bit difficult to know who's really competent if you don't know in the first place. There are a lot of hack weldors out there. (welder=machine - weldor=person, BTW)
Get adequate protective gear, and use it.
You might see if any community college or (not too likely these days, but there may still be some) high school adult-ed classes are available - those tend to be far more reasonably priced. The "welding schools" are all about charging people lots of money so they can dream about making lots of money on oil rigs, etc. from what I can see. I took my welding classes at the agricultural engineering department of the university I attended (as my free electives). Check with cooperative extension for your area and see if they have anything in the way of workshops for farmers repairing their equipment.
Quote from: DoD#i on December 11, 2009, 08:48:26 AM
You might see if any community college or (not too likely these days, but there may still be some) high school adult-ed classes are available -
I wish I would've had a better idea of the kind of things I wanted to do when I was younger. Looking back, there were a lot of classes like that I would've loved to actually take, or just to have paid attention in the ones that I did take so I'd have a better idea about those kinds of things.
Noiseguy: When you say 220V would be nicer, that reminds me of one other thing I've never been too sure about. Does your welder plug into a normal wall outlet, or do you have a special circuit for it? I eventaully need to have someone come over to put in a circuit so I can get some outlet strips on my workbench, but I've been curious if I should try to get something put in for a welder, or if I can handle normal tasks on one that fits in a standard outlet. By normal tasks, I mean fixing random things that broke from around the house, welding up a subframe or two over time. Things like that.
my brother has a 220v welder that plugs into the 220v outlet for his clothes dryer.
he uses a heavy gauge 220v extension cord that reaches from his garage to the clothes dryer outlet.
That sounds like a good option to me! I just had one of those put in a year or two ago. I'd probably need at least a 20-30 foot cord, but that wouldn't cost any more than a new plug anyway.
we actually made the cord from some kind of wire off a big roll at home depot with a dryer cord spliced on the end of it.
It was pretty cheap, maybe $50 or less? Just make sure you get a thick enough wire to handle the longer distance.
Quote from: noiseguy on December 10, 2009, 09:02:37 PM
MIG. It's really the easiest. Also no spatter; you could run it with bare hands.
Flux core isn't bad either. But get some gloves on.
Stick welder would be next. Only one I haven't personally tried. Again with gloves.
Oxy-Acetylene. Not sure anyone does this anymore.
Tig. I never really got the hang of it. Good for really thin steel (I've welded cookie sheets with this process) and aluminum.
If your welding with any wear gloves. if you can weld it without gloves your not using enough heat. I MIG 8 hrs a day every day and there is spatter and everyone wears gloves. I recommend a cheap auto darken helmet even while your learning as it helps to see while your getting ready to weld without having to flip you hood open every time you move to a different weld. as for flux core being harder then MIG i beleave your wrong. Flux is MIG without the gas usually a lower voltage welder and not as good as MIG. Any Flux core welding that i have ever seen anyone do looks like a pill of dog sh!t that i wouldnt trust to hold up a for sale sign on the side of the road let alone anything that was going to hold any weight.
best way to learn: make a living at it. you'll be trained by an older hand, learn what matters and what doesn't, and get paid in while doing it.
drop by a few machine shops, and tell em you want some 2nd shift work. there is always TONS of production welding in shops, and not all of it needs certification (which you won't have).
the old hands there will appreciate (and torment) you being there, and wonder what the hell is wrong with you for wanting to learn how to dob. ;)
I'm fair to good with a stick, and very good heli-arc. production welding of tiny pieces taught me in machine shops. it sucks, but you learn fast how to make something strong and efficient use of the welder.
teh books are fine, but hands on is where it's at. refine your skill with the information on the net. get dirty, and have fun !
Quote from: noiseguy on December 10, 2009, 09:02:37 PM
MIG. It's really the easiest. Also no spatter; you could run it with bare hands.
Flux core isn't bad either. But get some gloves on.
Stick welder would be next. Only one I haven't personally tried. Again with gloves.
Oxy-Acetylene. Not sure anyone does this anymore.
Tig. I never really got the hang of it. Good for really thin steel (I've welded cookie sheets with this process) and aluminum.
OA is mostly used for things other than welding (ie cutting and heating, though plasma is making large inroads in the cutting side of it), because of gas cost and (lack of) speed. Also, it takes about as much skill (and very similar skills) to OA weld as to TIG, since in both cases the torch is just heat, and the filler is done by the other hand. TIG is the process which can weld anything, and very cleanly - but it is also slow, and slow is expensive (so is argon). For many "exotic" things, it's the only way. I love to TIG, but have no justification for dropping the money on one for what I need to do, so I have a big nasty stick welder that could also do TIG, if I spent more money on accessories.
In the wire feed processes, there's "real" MIG (gas and solid wire), flux-core (no gas, flux cored wire - the cheapies) and dual-sheild (gas and flux-core designed to work with the gas - the fancy stuff). For small home shop work, you can do a lot worse than the readywelder (portable spool gun which can run off batteries or a welding supply).
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/migvsfluxcored.asp (http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/migvsfluxcored.asp)
One problem with MIG is that it's the easiest process to get a beautiful weld bead that isn't actually stuck to anything, or at least not very much. This is why breaking your practice welds is important. With stick or TIG, it is far more difficult to make a good looking but bad weld (though with stick, it's quite possible to make a bad looking but good weld, for low-aesthetic values of "good.")
Unless you are really wedded to that "live fast, die young" thing,
always wear gloves, and the rest of your complete coverage clothing. All arc welding processes put out skin-cancer-enhancing amounts of UV light, regardless of wether they throw any spatter at all. As such, none of your skin should "see" the arc. If you get a "sunburn" from welding on a regular basis, you are begging for trouble. As for spatter, that provides good old fashioned burns that will teach you what not to wear very effectively, unless you are extremely dense.
http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e205.pdf (http://content.lincolnelectric.com/pdfs/products/literature/e205.pdf)
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/arcweldfund.asp (http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/arcweldfund.asp)
http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/AWTC/Lesson1_1.htm (http://www.esabna.com/EUWeb/AWTC/Lesson1_1.htm)
And, if you get to prying your wallet open (not too far - this is a non-profit foundation founded by the "red" company, but separate from them):
https://ssl.lincolnelectric.com/foundation/store.asp?PID=16&cat=8 (https://ssl.lincolnelectric.com/foundation/store.asp?PID=16&cat=8)
dod had allot of stuff right... let's add a "TIPS" section to this thread. my first, and most painful lesson:
NEVER wear a white t-shirt while welding. no amount of aloe will sooth your skin from the flash burn.
love the leather.
unplug the grinder when you're done grinding.
un-tuck your pants from your boots.
leather aprons while sitting. biiiiig DOH here ;)
leather.
leather.
more leather.
Quote from: tt_four on December 11, 2009, 11:12:33 AM
Noiseguy: When you say 220V would be nicer, that reminds me of one other thing I've never been too sure about. Does your welder plug into a normal wall outlet, or do you have a special circuit for it? I eventaully need to have someone come over to put in a circuit so I can get some outlet strips on my workbench, but I've been curious if I should try to get something put in for a welder, or if I can handle normal tasks on one that fits in a standard outlet. By normal tasks, I mean fixing random things that broke from around the house, welding up a subframe or two over time. Things like that.
110V depends on the house. Last house (70's), every circuit was overloaded; had to shut off the garage and basement lights to run the compressor, that sort of thing. I had an electrician install a home-run from a dedicated 20A breaker into the garage to a few new outlets to take care of this. Modern house, with massive 150A main boxes, probably not an issue.
110 vs 220 as a household welder is infinately debatable. If your mantra is bigger is better, go 220V.
Personally, I think 110V is fine for most household stuff. Keep in mind you can weld up to 1/4" in two passes if you can get to both sides, and most stuff that needs welded probably isn't that thick anyway. You start welding up old-school car and truck frames, or want to try aluminum, it's time to go to 220V. For bikes, it's about perfect. Welder is a lot lighter as well, which makes the cart more manageable.
If I decide to go to a bigger welder, I'll probably get a Lincoln tombstone AC/DC 220V stick welder to supplement. Once a project gets that big / heavy, I don't think slag cleanup is as big of a deal (MIG requires almost no cleanup.) DC process makes nice-looking welds, and AC can weld heavier / dirtier stuff that I'll probably ever need.
Quote from: noiseguy on December 12, 2009, 07:33:01 AM
110V depends on the house. Last house (70's), every circuit was overloaded; had to shut off the garage and basement lights to run the compressor, that sort of thing. I had an electrician install a home-run from a dedicated 20A breaker into the garage to a few new outlets to take care of this. Modern house, with massive 150A main boxes, probably not an issue.
I'll have to look at by breaker box sometime to see. My house was built in 1880, so I have no idea when the electric was updated, but the guy who put in the dryer outlet said I've got plenty of circuits to spare.
I'm never going to be doing anything as heavy duty as a car/truck frame. At this point, the biggest projects I'd care to do is making new subframes for bike projects. I'd love to be able to weld aluminum for the sake of newer frames, but as long as the frame has tabs for a subframe to bolt on, I'm fine with making a subframe out of steel. Other than that it would be cool to be able to make up my own headlight mounts and exhaust brackets, things like that, as well as random household projects, like if a patio chair would crack, or maybe I'd go crazy and make a storm door or something like that, but otherwise I think I'd get by with a 110v.
Quote from: tt_four on December 12, 2009, 09:48:04 AM
I'll have to look at by breaker box sometime to see. My house was built in 1880, so I have no idea when the electric was updated, but the guy who put in the dryer outlet said I've got plenty of circuits to spare.
I'm never going to be doing anything as heavy duty as a car/truck frame. At this point, the biggest projects I'd care to do is making new subframes for bike projects. I'd love to be able to weld aluminum for the sake of newer frames, but as long as the frame has tabs for a subframe to bolt on, I'm fine with making a subframe out of steel. Other than that it would be cool to be able to make up my own headlight mounts and exhaust brackets, things like that, as well as random household projects, like if a patio chair would crack, or maybe I'd go crazy and make a storm door or something like that, but otherwise I think I'd get by with a 110v.
For tabs, subframes, exhausts, household and the like, 110V is perfect. It's an incredibly handy tool to have around, and it's not really replaceable by anything else in the toolbox. For example, PO on my bike had sawn off the can on the bike to mount slip-on, but never bought the slip-on. He did keep the old can though. Re-welding this on was pretty easy, and took about 30 minutes tops including fixturing, spot welding, and final welding. I'm not sure how much I'd have spent having someone do this, and get it right, as it needed to be welded together on the bike to do it right.
Yeah, even if you can pay someone else to do it, I usually hate trying to explain to other people the random projects I'm trying to do. If I had a welder I'd definitely see about making my exhaust a high mount as I think it would go well with the tail I have on the bike, but something like that is too many bends and details for me to want to explain that to someone else. I'd also have to get the pipes bent, but after I found out there's a harbor freight 20 minutes away, I think this thing could make it possible. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32888
Last time I was over my wife's friends house for one of the moped gatherings she goes to, I saw a welder on the other side of their basement when they were showing me something. I'll probably see if they can show me a thing or two sometime.
Edit: I was bored and browsing last night at info on exhausts. I think I may take some of my christmas money and see what Harbor Freight has on sale. They've got this one for $100 now.... http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=98871
I'll get a better one someday, but being in the same situation you are, I'd just like something to learn on.
Hey I just read this thread as I too am learning how to weld. I'm not doing too bad for teaching myself. But i have been using that harbor freight welder and have found it to be an effective welder. I mean for the money I don't think you can beat it. I have welded all sorts of things like tabs for my rearsets and tabs for my subframe some shameless pics to folllow. It doesn't have a whole lot of adjustment but it is very easy to use. I used about a half spool of wire making test welds then welded my tank stay bracket on.
(http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac172/thompsonmx100/IMG_0891.jpg)
(http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac172/thompsonmx100/IMG_0892.jpg)
(http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac172/thompsonmx100/IMG_0749.jpg)
(http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac172/thompsonmx100/IMG_0791.jpg)
Hey, looks like you're doing pretty good. What welder did you get from Harbor Freight? Is it the same one I posted a link for? I think I'll probably see what I can pick up after christmas there on sale somewhere around the $100 range, unless they have anything cheaper. I'll see though, it'll be a busy winter if I'm going to try to learn how to paint things with a real paint gun as well, although the painting will probably have to wait until spring, as that's clearly not an inside activity with the poor basement ventilation I get.
How do you like that stand as well? I've been thinking about picking one of those up. My dad has a similar one for his Harley, although his exhaust doesn't run under the bike like the gs does, but I think if you just stuck some boards across it you could pick it up with the frame and not hit the exhaust. That store is going to kill me now that I found out it's so close. They had tire bead breakers for $20. I convinced myself I could probably just do it with a C-clamp, but if not I'll definitely go get one!
yes sir the same welder you posted pics of. the stand works good i can pick the bike up wheel it around the shop some boards would probably be necessary. And yes Harbor freight will bankrupt you. I have more money invested in tools from there than I have in my entire project bike. But I'm a mechanic and plan on deducting most of them from my taxes. the bead breaker would be nice they also have a stand that you can buy to true and balance your wheels. The bead breaker is too small for the tires I'm changing now 180/190
Two comments - remember that "deducting from taxes" just means a discount equivalent to your tax rate - 15% if you make less than $33K, 25% if less than $83K, and no sympathy or advice from me if you make more than $83K. Plus whatever your state tax is, if any. Far too many people think "tax deductible" means "free" - it doesn't. Numbers change if you are married, etc. - go look it up.
Second one - I don't always live by it, but I always consider it before violating it (and if you describe yourself as a mechanic to the extent that you deduct things, you should think long and hard about it.)
When buying tools: Buy the best - only cry once.
The pain in the wallet fades. The pain of a tool that doesn't quite work stays fresh. If used professionally, it can cost you money. Harbor Freight rarely (if ever) is the supplier of choice for the best tools. By the time you break three, have made four trips to replace them, and finally decide to get the good one, you've wasted a lot more time and money than if you started with the good one. There are times when "good enough" is good enough - and there are times when "tool-shaped objects from China" are about as useful as that name should imply.
Quote from: DoD#i on December 16, 2009, 09:08:40 PM
Two comments - remember that "deducting from taxes" just means a discount equivalent to your tax rate - 15% if you make less than $33K, 25% if less than $83K, and no sympathy or advice from me if you make more than $83K. Plus whatever your state tax is, if any. Far too many people think "tax deductible" means "free" - it doesn't. Numbers change if you are married, etc. - go look it up.
Second one - I don't always live by it, but I always consider it before violating it (and if you describe yourself as a mechanic to the extent that you deduct things, you should think long and hard about it.)
When buying tools: Buy the best - only cry once.
The pain in the wallet fades. The pain of a tool that doesn't quite work stays fresh. If used professionally, it can cost you money. Harbor Freight rarely (if ever) is the supplier of choice for the best tools. By the time you break three, have made four trips to replace them, and finally decide to get the good one, you've wasted a lot more time and money than if you started with the good one. There are times when "good enough" is good enough - and there are times when "tool-shaped objects from China" are about as useful as that name should imply.
Sorry to threadjack but I'd like to add my 2 cents to this one. I've tinkered since I was a kid and worked as a technician (fancy word for mechanic) for over 5 years. I have owned cheap and expensive tools. Here's what I have learned along the way:
DoD#i is correct if you are talking about a tool you will use often. One good tool is better than repeatedly buying a cheap tool. A good tool will also do the job better. It will be easier to use and less likely to damage what you are working on. I don't know if a welder falls into this category, at least not in the context of this conversation. A relatively inexpensive welder might be a good starting point for a novice. I'm not saying buy the cheapest thing you can find, research the spec.s and buy the best you can on your budget. But unless your goal is to build custom frames I don't think you need to go all out on your first purchase. You may find welding isn't your thing. I have access to welding equipment and welders so I never felt the need to buy my own. And quite frankly, I'd rather let someone that knows what they are doing take care of the weld for me :laugh:
Now to digress further from the original topics, here is some other advice I give when people ask me about tools...
I see 3 grades of tools: cheap, home owner quality and professional quality. All 3 have their uses. My traveling tool kit is made up of cheap and home owner quality tools. It is not something I use on a regular basis but it has all the tools I would need in most scenarios. And while I would be pissed if it was lost/stolen I wouldn't be out a ton of money. Some of Harbor Freight's stuff are decent cheap tools. And some of the stuff at Advance Auto, Autozone, Home Depot... are decent cheap tools. Sears Craftsman "Evolve" tools are also decent cheap tools. Most of the Craftsman stuff I consider to be home owner grade. The combination wrenches are short (less leverage). In fact I prefer the Evolve wrenches due to their length. The Craftsman ratchets are rough and have a relatively large swing arc but they are durable and get the job done. Sears now has a line of polished tools that are a step above their regular stuff. Most of those tools would fall into the professional category.
If you have the money, nothing beats "pro" grade tools. In most cases Snap On is the top of the line. In my experience, Snap On makes the best wrenches. They are strong, provide excellent leverage, and are the least likely to round off fasteners. One place Snap On is not #1 is ratchets. Matco makes the best ratchets. Their fine tooth gear heads are smooth, strong and only require a 4 degree swing arc (great in tight places). They have a superior locking flex head design too. One pro grade brand I really dislike is Mac. I have never bought a Mac tool that has lasted. Mac sockets break often and there ratchets are inferior to Matco and Snap On. Also their wrenches don't "feel" very good (ergonomics?). And the greatest invention to come along in my time as a mechanic are Gear Wrenches. One of those "why didn't I think of it" ideas. The original GearWrench brand is still the best. I also have some locking flex head gear wrenches made by SK that come in very handy sometimes.
And before you run out and buy the best, here is some great advice my old boss/mentor gave me when I was starting out. First of all, buy the cheapest toolbox you can. All it does it hold tools. Instead of buying a $5,000 Snap On box, buy a $1,000 Harbor Freight box and fill it with $4,000 worth of Snap On tools. Secondly, unless you borrow a tool 2 or 3 times you don't really need to buy it. And thirdly, only buy tools for what you work on. If you don't have a '72 Monte Carlo in your driveway you probably don't need SAE tools. Lots of the pre-packaged tool kits have metric and SAE tools. If you are only working on your GS (or any car produced in the last 20 or so years) you only need metric tools. And even within them there are only certain sizes you will use on a regular basis. One thing I did when I was starting out was buy mid-grade sockets (Sunex brand) and as they were broken/lost I replaced them with a Snap On. Those Sunex sockets proved to be pretty decent and I still have most of them in service :thumb:
Well I'm running out of steam and need to sleep, that's my rant for now...
-Jessie
I definitely gauge what quality of tools I buy based on what it is. I would never go to harbor freight for my normal tools like wrenches and screwdrivers, but I'm perfectly fine with homedepot/sears quality with that kind of stuff. I am however happy to buy more specialized tools that I may only use 5 times in my life. A lot of the bicycle specific tools I have high quality professional grade stuff because I used to use those constantly. The only SAE tools I own is a spare set of box wrenches just because I may use one on occasion, but otherwise I have no desire to own one. I get angry just looking at SAE tools.
As far as something like a welder, considering I'm going to spend at least $100, it would be nice to just spend a little more and get something I'd want to keep for a while, but considering there are so many different types of welders, and I don't know anything about any of them, especially the volts/amps and everything else. I'd rather spend $100 knowing I'm going to replace it, instead of spending $250-500 and know there's a chance I'm going to want to replace it eventually anyway because I didn't buy the right one. If I brake it doing something stupid you're not supposed to do with a welder, that's just a good excuse to buy a better one, and if I don't break it I can make someone's day buy giving it to them after I buy a new one.
I also saw that wheel balancing stand, but for $60 I can just make one out of some 2x4s. I'm also curious if that'll just fit in my Park bicycle wheel stand, but I won't know until I pull one of the wheels off again.
Teach yourself, its really not that hard. I learned by doing and have been doing it now for over 15 years.. I have a few welders and they all have different jobs. First i have a 110 volt Lincoln Mig welder good for up to 3/16 inch, but you can do 1/4 inch with it if you take your time. I use it for all my auto stuff, and light welding. Next i have a Miller 220 volt stick welder that i use for all my heavy welding. Its harder to learn, but once you do its a great welder. And last I have my Hobart Welder/Generator. Again for bigger jobs that I need to be mobil for. This one is great because i can run my plasma cutter, my hand grinders, chop saws and even my mig welder.
As with any tools (or motorcycle gear) buy the best you can afford and up grade when you can.
Bill.
I don't know if the have this sort of thing over there, but I did an Adult Ed night class in welding, at a local hight school. Went for 8 weeks, and covered stick and mig welding, plus we got to play around a bit with oxy, and plasma cutting. Was a good opportunity to learn hands on and get some tips from someone experienced.
Where'd you find out about that class? Was the highschool the one doing it, or was it a community college/welding group that just rented out the class space and tools? I'd like something like that, but I don't even know where you'd find out about it. I tried browsing the community college website, but I couldn't find anything useful.
The one i did I heard about by word of mouth, but info about it was on the schools website. It was done by the school, the guy running the class was their head workshop teacher.
Like I said, I don't know if any schools do that sort of thing over there, but it might be worth getting in contact with somewhere and asking if they do, or if they know anywhere that does.
well said all. i taught myself when welding a gsxr 1k can on my 97 gs i had (http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2/yamahonkawazuki/highresnekkidness1.jpg)
Quote from: yamahonkawazuki on December 18, 2009, 11:00:06 PM
well said all. i taught myself when welding a gsxr 1k can on my 97 gs i had
Looks good, aside from wanting to mess with my subframe, I definitely plan to change up my exhaust as well. If I really feel like getting into it with finding some more header pipe and getting it bent I'll end up with the highmount, otherwise I'm just going to angle it up more so it sits more like yours does. What kind of welder to you use for yours? Was it a nicer one, or did you just pick up a cheaper welder to learn like we've been discussing?
Yes I am a mechanic I know what deducting things from my taxes means and no I don't work with harbor freight tools. I will however use them at the house. I'm not stupid sir.