I bought this bike with 688 miles on it. I know the guy didn't do anything to it so I was wondering what is the Waxy stuff on my chain. Is it ok to just shoot regular chain lube on it or do I have to clean it off first?
Thanks!
its chain Lube and its probably made by Belray and I hate that stuff.
Fuchs have a telflon gel chain lube that also makes your chain a nice white colour if that is what you like :thumb:
Always clean your chain before lubing.
Putting any kind of lube over dirt is very bad.
Just seals the dirt to the chain.
Forget about how much mileage, the chain is in the perfect place to collect road grime, instantly.
That's what scares me with the "auto-oilers" out there.
How often do those guys clean their chains?
Clean regularly and it only takes 10 minutes.
Option 2: Never clean and lube, and replace your chain and sprockets with brand new shiney ones every 5000kms. :cookoo:
I've been cleaning and lubing with white lithium every 500 miles or so. Is this ok, or should I not be using this. I have almost 6k on the bike and have noticed no excessive wear or problems.
I use WD40 as my lube after every tank up (about every 200 miles). Just put 12k on the bike and the chain is as good as gold. :thumb:
Michael
I'm not sure with the white lithium. Its a great lubricant but I don't know how well it will penetrate into the links.
And that's where you want the lubrication. The interior of the rollers on most chains are lubed and sealed nowadays.
And the perpetual WD40 question...
It is a lube. Its is a cleaner. And it penetrates into the links.
Being a cleaner, it will breakdown greases.
And it penetrates. So eventually in theory it will penetrate into your rollers and break the grease down.
That's not a good thing.
But that said, my mechanic (40 years in the biz) uses it all the time. Often and generously.
And then there is the problem with fling with WD40.
I would still recommend any motorcycle chain lube though. The mfg's have done thier homework.
Nice thing with chain lubes, you get a myriad of options. White, clear, sticky, no fling, wax, etc.
And you can pick one specifically for your geography, personal tastes, riding style, maintenance effort, etc.
They're all good but most importantly; clean that thing before you lube it.
Then we come to a lecture on kerosene. I love it. Cheap, effective, and recommended by the bike mfg's.
your spose to clean and lube your chaing?
Nah. There's always Option 2. :thumb:
if by option 2 you mean wet the chain with skim milk then good, casuse thats what ive been doing since i bought the bike.
I thought the engine oil lubed your chain? What gives then where does all that oil go that I have been putting in my bike all of the years?
Um Yeah right!
That only works on Harley's.
I don't know why they switched to belts. Man they had it figured out.
Quote from: CanuckSV on January 28, 2010, 02:37:11 PM
I'm not sure with the white lithium. Its a great lubricant but I don't know how well it will penetrate into the links.
And that's where you want the lubrication. The interior of the rollers on most chains are lubed and sealed nowadays.
And the perpetual WD40 question...
It is a lube. Its is a cleaner. And it penetrates into the links.
Being a cleaner, it will breakdown greases.
And it penetrates. So eventually in theory it will penetrate into your rollers and break the grease down.
That's not a good thing.
But that said, my mechanic (40 years in the biz) uses it all the time. Often and generously.
And then there is the problem with fling with WD40.
I would still recommend any motorcycle chain lube though. The mfg's have done thier homework.
Nice thing with chain lubes, you get a myriad of options. White, clear, sticky, no fling, wax, etc.
And you can pick one specifically for your geography, personal tastes, riding style, maintenance effort, etc.
They're all good but most importantly; clean that thing before you lube it.
Then we come to a lecture on kerosene. I love it. Cheap, effective, and recommended by the bike mfg's.
I've had more Fling from Non Fling bike lubes than WD40!
Get home in the afternoon/evening, spray on the WD40 and any excess just drips off. The cleaner evaporates away leaving a slight amount of lube.
Unless you have some evidence that WD40 gets past the O Rings and dissolves the grease away, stop stating as such, even in Theory. I've seen no evidence of it, though I have seen a letter from the makers of WD40 stating they tested it and it did Not destroy O rings or get past them and dissolve the lube away.
BUT, if YOU don't want to use WD40, then use what YOU feel comfortable using.
The GS manual says... clean with Kerosene ONLY - not gasoline or commercial cleaning solvents. And lube with Suzuki Chain Lube or equivalent. Honda suggest lubing with oil.
Point of it all is... use what you want, just lube it, and regularly.
Michael
oops. Sorry. I thought this discussion board was for discussing...
No theory, just facts then:
- WD40 is made to penetrate and disolve. Make your own conclusion.
- The makers of WD40 will tell you what ever you want to hear. As long as they can sell and don't get sued.
Yes, absolutely clean with kerosene. And I believe most mfg's actually recommend 30 weight oil for lubing.
I'm not on board with the 30 weight oil, that is just sloppy.
Bottom line; Clean and lube regularly with whatever works for you.
Cripe! I've doing it all wrong. I use WD40 from the gallon cans to clean the chain. Then, after it evaps and leaves only its residue, I wipe the chain with dry paper toweling, use a heat gun gun to warm the chain and then apply BelRay Chain wax to the warm chain and let that cure or dry or whatever and wipe down again. My chain must be ruined by now, but it seems OK.
On another note, in the past I used Stihl brand chainsaw chain oil. This was the older kind (still available) and not the Earth Friendly stuff that decays over time. That original stuff is very tacky and does a really good job of staying on the chian -- but does it get in there where you need it? Maybe not, unless you warm-up the chain so tha the lube is pulled in as it cools.
prs
Quote from: CanuckSV on January 28, 2010, 11:44:16 PM
- WD40 is made to penetrate and disolve. Make your own conclusion.
- The makers of WD40 will tell you what ever you want to hear. As long as they can sell and don't get sued.
If they told it wouldnt penetrate his chain and dissolve the grease away, and it does deissolve it and he wrecks, or the chain breaks, or whatever, then he could sue. and if he can prove they told him that they wouldnt fight it
Quote from: CanuckSV on January 28, 2010, 11:44:16 PM
- WD40 is made to penetrate and disolve. Make your own conclusion.
- The makers of WD40 will tell you what ever you want to hear. As long as they can sell and don't get sued.
Bottom line; Clean and lube regularly with whatever works for you.
And O-rings are designed NOT to be penetrated and to keep lube in. WD40 is NOT some magic product that can mysteriously Penetrate the unpenetratable just cause it's made to Penetrate.
Yes, makers of ALL products will tell you whatever they need to make a sale. Sometimes it's even BS. But they do not like getting sued. So telling you it will not destroy the O-Ring and ruin a chain, on the off chance it could, a person wreck and Then sue them, isn't in their best interest. *I* would think, IF their product could ruin such a chain they would very quickly say so to avoid the risk of being sued.
As I said, I am yet to hear of any ruined chain from using WD40. And you'd think with so many using it and with the "quick to blame" ability of the internet this would be out there easy. Make of that what you will.
But clean/lube with kero or WD40 or whatever gets you hard, regardless :thumb:
Now Greg, I am yet to try skim milk on the chain. Handle bars is a given. Hadn't thought of the chain though. Good?
Michael
Michael
Skim is too light, I use double-cream and it really sticks to the chain. It's a Buddha Loves You to clean off your rims though, especially the black ones!
I've used WD40 as a chain lube with no problems what so ever as long as you apply it often. If you don't apply it after rain your chain may start to rust.
Considering the GS has a centre stand and how easy wd40 is to apply its no drama.
I think you're on the nut there galahs.
If it disovles rust, penetrates, and lubricates... then what could be better.
As I said in an earlier post; my old time mechanic uses it: liberally and often.
I think that is the solution.
Just don't get lazy. (but that's the same with all cleaning and lubing)
And I tried 3% on the handlebars. Makes me way too jittery. Had to buy a stabilizer to compensate.
There's always a trade off...
By the way, if you live in a warmer climate, ditch the milk.
Unless you like the smell of leather rotting mixed with cheese going bad.
Aww, tales of an old girlfriend, but that's defintely for a different forum... and not one I'm proud to tell.
Quote from: gregvhen on January 28, 2010, 06:51:02 PM
if by option 2 you mean wet the chain with skim milk then good, casuse thats what ive been doing since i bought the bike.
Not this argument again! It's obvious to anyone who's studied it at all that you need at least a 2% for there to be any benefit. The fat is what lubricates.
Here (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=345397) is a pretty thorough look at what does and does not effect o-rings. I don't see at a quick glance if he ever updated with long term results though. I kinda think the wd-40 discussion is in the same boat as synthetic and dino oil or 87 vs 91 octane and will never be resolved....
87 vs. 91 or 93 octane..... i've been wondering what would happen if i tried to run premium in my gs.... probably blow the seals?
I run 95 octane and have no problems. I get better mileage from BP gas than from Shell. Haven't tried Caltex gas yet to see how their's is.
Michael
Higher octane gas won't hurt anything but really isn't necessary in a low compression engine like a GS unless you are having pre-detonation (pinging) issues.
-Jessie